Started pulling the TV cable and noticed a few things. First the cable seemed to be very loose and was also frayed at the ends. Second it looks like you have to drop the transmission pan to remove the part the goes into the transmission :mad:. Not a hard task put just something i didn't expect. I figure if i am going to drop the pan i might as well replace the filter why i am at it.

You don't have to drop the pan at all...... it's replaced from the outside..... 1 bolt and lift up on the housing and you'll see it just slides off the little wire that sticks out.

x2 on what Joe said. Real easy to change. Cable from the dealer is about $15. Make sure you specify the Diesel TV cable. The universal cables, and the gasser TV cables will not work.

I bought a brand new GM Diesel 700R4 TV cable about a week before i found my SM465, hoping that the old frayed cable was the cause of my crappy 1-2 shift since the cable was sticking and coming out of adjustment. When i found out that it didn't really help(although it did solve the coming out of adjustment issue) that's when i said goodbye to the 700R4 and went to pick up my SM465.

Thanks for the help. The With the cable being so frayed up top it wouldnt let the cable come all the way back so part of the rod was stuck up inside of the little boot. After a lot of pulling on the bad cable i could see the little hole and was able to get the rod off the cable. So the best place to get the cable is the dealer? and its only 15 bucks ???

rip offs at dealers may vary.

there are aftermarket cables, but most are for gas, and the parts guy will have a heck of a time telling if it will work for a diesel

Thats for the heads up. I might try calling over to the stealership on monday. Also off topic but for the 85 6.2s they use a two peace rear main seal correct? It looks like i might have a leak coming from the back of the oil pan gasket or the rear main. I figure if i am going to drop the oil pan i might as well replace the rear main as well.

how clean/new is your CDR? to clean it I've soaked it in gas for about 10 seconds, then dump the gas out, and re-soak for another 10 seconds. Then let it air dry until you no longer smell gasoline fumes from the openings. I usually let it air dry overnight and it's good.

It's always worked for me.

You can always buy a new one as well.

Also make sure your oil pan bolts are all snugged up. You don't have to go Hercules on them as they aren't large bolts, but a loose one would cause a leak.

The CDR has about 100 miles on it. I am getting a lot of blow coming from some wear and there is a tone in the intake system.

x2 on the CRD valve. I had a bit of an oil pan leak, but I bought a new (M998) valve on eBay and it cleared it up. I didn't know you could clean them, $36 lesson. Learning is fun, just not cheap. Also, make sure (not trying to seem like I don't think you know your stuff) it's the right CDR, and that it's hooked up right. The chain parts stores by me wanted to sell me an array of WRONG valves, and some that hooked up differently. Also, if it's got a leak in the plumbing that could give you problems as well. Just my $.02

Thanks for the info. In fact the valve is for a M998/M1097 and it is brand new (less then 100 miles on it) The valve runs right off the oil fill tube and then dumps back into the banks air box wear it is supposed too.