These pics are taken from underneat the truck. This hole is leaking coolant like crazy. I got a new waterpump on order, but won't be here for at least another week. Added 2 gallons of water to it on a 1.5hour drive home when i bought it saturday night. I knew it was leaking, and am happy its just the waterpump, but still wanna know what that hole is for, and why it's leaking.

Thanks guys

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii24/BuildOilPatchTough/waterpump2.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii24/BuildOilPatchTough/waterpump3.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii24/BuildOilPatchTough/waterpump.jpg

This is on my 04 LLY by the way

That, my friend, is the weep hole. When it weeps, it's time for a new pump. It's a hole on the back side of the seal... Been on GM vehicles since the inception of the small block chevy, maybe even before.

http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/350579/how_to_know_when_your_cars_water_pump.html

Ditto on the weep hole. It's a warning sign that you need to install a new pump soon!

Jake

Ah ic, i got one on the way here so ill wait for that.

Thanks guys

Haha in that link it says to not drive it any longer if it's leaks a lot from that weep hole. Mine never overheated, stayed right where it belongs.

I put gasket maker in both weep holes last night lol, if it doesnt leak now i should be able to drive the truck a little bit right? I just gotta get it out of my shop and go to town to wash it, only 4miles. Then as soon as the new waterpump is here i'll replace it.

Well, maybe.

A leak that severe suggests to me that the pressure inside the raditor can't be maintained, thus making more prone to over heat. The gasket maker will probably just get pushed out.

I wouldn't be pulling anything, and driving it like my grandma does hers, until you get the new water pump in.

Truck doesn't pull, and probably never will. Gonna be the racetruck for next year. I'll just try it tonight and see if the gasket maker stays in there, if not then i'll park it again til my waterpump and tranny cooler come in. Got the LMM tranny cooler on there for now cuz the LLY cooler broke when taking my frontend apart.

Haha in that link it says to not drive it any longer if it's leaks a lot from that weep hole. Mine never overheated, stayed right where it belongs.

I put gasket maker in both weep holes last night lol, if it doesnt leak now i should be able to drive the truck a little bit right? I just gotta get it out of my shop and go to town to wash it, only 4miles. Then as soon as the new waterpump is here i'll replace it.

You gotta remember, that's based on a gasoline engine, not a diesel.

As far as the gasket maker, I highly doubt it will hold, but I wish you the best.

If you wanted to 1/2 butt fix it, may as well drive a self tapping screw into it.

I'm not half butt fixing it, i have a new pump on the way already. Just wanna move the truck and drive it little bit. Not goin far with it anyways. I got my lmm and jetta for that. If the gasket maker don't hold I'll just park it til my pump gets here

I'm not half butt fixing it, i have a new pump on the way already. Just wanna move the truck and drive it little bit. Not goin far with it anyways. I got my lmm and jetta for that. If the gasket maker don't hold I'll just park it til my pump gets here

I read that you have a new pump on order. I mean for your temp fix. If it's weeping, park it. Those seals can go from a weep to full on pour in just a few miles.

It is pouring already. Like I said I'm not driving it far. If the gasket pops out I'll wait for te pump. If it stays, then great it works til I have
my new pump

I read that you have a new pump on order. I mean for your temp fix. If it's weeping, park it. Those seals can go from a weep to full on pour in just a few miles.

yep, exactly right. Mine went from a slow drip and then all of a sudden it wouldnt make it 25 minutes without draining the entire coolant surge tank...I was 5 hours from home so I just went to the grocery store and bought several gallons of spring water. Drive half an hour, LOW COOLANT LEVEL, refill, drive another half hour, LOW COOLANT LEVEL, etc... :rolleyes:

yep, exactly right. Mine went from a slow drip and then all of a sudden it wouldnt make it 25 minutes without draining the entire coolant surge tank...I was 5 hours from home so I just went to the grocery store and bought several gallons of spring water. Drive half an hour, LOW COOLANT LEVEL, refill, drive another half hour, LOW COOLANT LEVEL, etc... :rolleyes:

Exactly how mine was sat night when I drove it home. Filled up 3 times on a 1.5hr drive lol

IF you got to drive it, loosen the rad cap and let the pressure off the system and the water pump. Don't get it to operating temp or it may boil:(.
If you have a head gasket problem, it will boil......

IF you got to drive it, loosen the rad cap and let the pressure off the system and the water pump. Don't get it to operating temp or it may boil:(.
If you have a head gasket problem, it will boil......

its not going to boil at operating temp even when depressurized because its not pure water...... depressurized you'd probably have to get it to 240* before it boils. Obviously running it under ~14psi pressure raises this temp higher, say 260*...

ben

IF you got to drive it, loosen the rad cap and let the pressure off the system and the water pump. Don't get it to operating temp or it may boil:(.
If you have a head gasket problem, it will boil......
If you read back i already said it doesn't overheat...
Drove it home for 1.5hours and temp stayed right where it belongs.

its not going to boil at operating temp even when depressurized because its not pure water...... depressurized you'd probably have to get it to 240* before it boils. Obviously running it under ~14psi pressure raises this temp higher, say 260*... ben

Maybe, maybe not.
As I understand, 50/50 coolant at 0 PSI will boil at 250 deg F. With coolant system pressure at 0 PSI, what is the pressure at the suction side of the pump? It will be at a pressure < 0 PSI, so the boiling temperature will be lower.
If the pressure at suction of pump dropped to say -5 PSI, (approximately 10 HG vacuum), the boiling point of the coolant drops approximately 20-25 deg F, which is getting closer to boiling if running at elevated coolant temperatures.
How many people have replaced a water pump, and have seen the pump housing erroded away? Can you say cavitation?
I would assume this happens when coolant system pressure is < than designed, (which lowers pump suction pressure < designed), and system temp was higher than the normal 190-200 deg F.

Have you read killerbee's "The Degas Demistified" thread? Some interesting info in link below, (which is explained MUCH better).
http://killerbeeperformance.com/downloads/miscellaneous/

Haha in that link it says to not drive it any longer if it's leaks a lot from that weep hole. Mine never overheated, stayed right where it belongs.

I put gasket maker in both weep holes last night lol, if it doesnt leak now i should be able to drive the truck a little bit right? I just gotta get it out of my shop and go to town to wash it, only 4miles. Then as soon as the new waterpump is here i'll replace it.

Personally, I wouldn't block the weep hole and continue running the truck. If I REALLY had to keep running the truck, I'd bring extra water and not overload coolant system to elevate coolant temperature.
The weep hole is there to tell you the seal is failing, AND to minimize pressure at the gear side of the shaft. If the weep hole is not allowed to relieve the fluid and the pressure behind it, the coolant will most likely get pushed past relief hole up to the drive gear, and now coolant will be leaking into the engine, contaminating the engine oil.

Let's not get into a big debate or pissing contest with this.

He's been warned. If he continues to drive the truck against our better advice, it's his own decision.

I think we've all got our point across that if it was *OUR* truck, which it's not, we'd park it until the proper replacement was installed.

Haha drove it and all was good, temps were good, no leaking at all. Not gonna drive it any more til the tranny cooler comes in though, got the LMM cooler on it now but that's just layin on the bumper cuz it's different. Don't wanna wreck that cooler so that's back in the LMM again. Cooler and pump should be here same day.