I am going to be replacing the injectors on my truck this weekend and wondered if anyone had recommendations about any special tools I might want to grab while I'm still in town. (half hour away from the parts store! )Censored

Thanks,

Deep 30mm socket, and a breakover (Johnson) bar to loosen the injectors.

Compressed air to blow the holes clean.

Anti-sieze for the injector threads when they go back in.

Torque wrench to torque injectors to ~45ft/lbs.

Make sure you have a 9/32" 1/4" drive socket and a 1/4" drive ratchet or hand driver to remove the clamps on the lines and the heat shield.

Dang... knew I'd forget something.... guess I'll head back in for some anti-sieze in the morning before I tear into it. Any advice on getting to the ones on the right-hand side? Other than the air cleaner, does a guy have to take anything else out (such as the turbo) to get to them?

I did convince my wife to take the kiddo somewhere tomorrow so she doesn't learn any new words when dad bangs his knuckles again!!! :eek:

I have to pull the turbo but Tex would probably say it could be done with it on, if you pull the heat sheild.

Sounds like I will have a fun day tomorrow. Other than the glow plugs, this will be my first try at doing any work on this truck. Judging by what is under the hood, I think I will probably get something to break the nuts loose and maybe try to clean 'er up a little while I am at it.

I'll keep ya'all posted.

When I pull the turbo, I'll pull it as a unit. It's easier in and out to keep it together. That means you have to drop the downpipe and crossover loosen the 8 15mm studs/bolts holding the exhaust, unplug the glows, loosen the oil return hoseclamp, take off the brace on top and pull the airbox and it should come out if you mind the battery and a/c lines.

Return line kit & 12 pack, not in that particular order. Heavy grease will work in place of anti-seize. 30mm injector Snap-on socket will make it go Soooo much easier. Flex head rachet to go along with the socket.

Aaarrrggghhh..... :help:

Got the ones on the left side with minimal blood-shet, but these on the right side are a bear to get to. I tried to pull the turbo as a unit, but the bolts where it mounts to the exhaust manifold are siezed. I have some stuff on them now to try to break them loose. Any suggestions on good ways to get 'er off? I have removed all of the "extra stuff" (air cleaner, battery, some hoses) so I have a little room to move, but it is still tight in there.

in the mean-time I pulled the heat shield out and thought I would be able to get to the injectors with it off. Bad thing is, the only 30MM deep I could find was for pulling axles and the thing is a 1/2 inch MONSTER! :frankenst Sears didn't have any sockets that big and I'm not sure where else I might be able to find anything on a Sunday afternoon. Any idears??? :grd:

I know you can break some of them free using a long extension and a breakover bar going through the wheel well. Other than that, yeah, they can be a pain.

FWIW, the few times that I've had to work on the turbo side of the engine, I've always removed the inner fender well. Yes, it takes a couple minutes to do, but in the end it saves time. Not mention bloody knuckles. One of the added benefits is that you open up options for what tools will work.

Thanks for the encouragement and advice. I'm getting closer to where I think I need to be to get at the injectors now. I am still struggling with getting enough room for my socket to get in there, but I think I am just going to have to try to find a better option for a socket. I have a friend who is a mechanic and hopefully he will let me borrow his 30MM tomorrow.

Where is a good place to buy a deep 30MM? Do you guys user 1/2" socket when you are taking out the injectors or 3/8"? I think that surely there has to be a better way that what I am doing now.... :banghead:

All Right guys.... I am now feeling a good. After pulling the inner fender, it was light the lights turned on and everything else was easy. I have all of the new injectors in and just have to get everything else back in place so I can be up and running. If I had known I was going to end up pulling all of this stuff, I would have ordered guages and a new exhaust to get er all done at once. Hopefully I can get the garage cleaned out enough that when I get that stuff, I will be able to put it in under shade! It's dang hot out there now! :weld:

Thanks for all your help! I'll let you know when she is back together.

Up and running... Had to do a bit more than anticipated, but it ended up working well in the long run.

I accidentally stepped on and crushed one of the little plastic things that surrounds the glow plug connector, but was able to just use the metal part left from inside of it to get a good connection. I will probably order a set of wires next time I tear into anything in the engine compartment, but it seems to work well for now. (unless anyone sees a reason that running just the metal clip will cause a problem?)

After getting everything put together, I fired it up and it pretty much killed all of the mosquitos within a quarter mile. Didn't get better after warming up, so I remembered what Tex said about maybe needing to advance the IP a little to compensate for wear on the timing chain. Did that, and it fired right up and idled smooth. I test drove it and it didn't have to downshift on some hills that it did last night, so I would say that all seems to be running good.

The nice thing is that after I got it together, there were no leftover parts! :cool2:

I also left off the connector that goes from the air box to the fender. Seems to be a little louder, but because I did all of the other mods at the same time, I don't know whether it made a difference or not performance-wise. Sounds cool....

Now that I have all of this done, I think when I send the cores back to Walt, I will have him drop a 4" exhaust in the mail. :ro)

Thanks again for everyone's help!

Glad to hear she's running well.

You probably will want to replace that plastic piece, that keeps the air box drawing air from the quarter panel instead of the engine compartment, and it will make a little more noise with it off. While your at it, look inside the quarter panel where the piece goes and see if you have a plastic snorkel in there. If so, it would be worth your while to remove it.
http://www.kennedydiesel.com/airboxmods.html

Ah...IC. I thought that was what I had removed. oops....

I'll change that tomorrow night after work. Great link!!!

Thanks so much for this thread. I have been trying to find a description of this process for about a year. Where did you get the injectors?

I got them from SSDieselSupply. The things I will emphasize I learned from this thread:

1. To get to anything on the right side, just remove the inner fender before you start. It will more than save the time to take it out...

2. Make sure to find a good 30MM deep socket. This was hard to do in my area, so I had to settle for a cheapy.

3. If you think you might want to replace the glow plugs in the future, do it while you have everything else tore apart. Well worthwhile...

After doing it once, I'd guess I could probably do it in a small fraction of the time the second time. (I'd say you can do it in an afternoon) Good luck on your swap!

Thanks, I picked up on those important details as I read this thread over and over to get every detail of your excellent description of the process. May be worth it to drill and tap and put a plug in for EGT if nothing else.

How did you advance the IP, is there a thread on that somewhere?
Is there any chance of having to adjust the popping pressure of the injectors, which would be rather impossible for me, or do they come tested and certified? Is there a risk of stripping threads or breaking the injector during extraction?

I am basically trying to determine (1) how to tell when injector(s) need to be changed , and (2) is it possible to do it myself to save some $ without destroying anything.

:thankyou2