Nasty oil leak. I'm just completing 3k miles on Castro 15W-50 Diesel oil and I added Auto-RX to clean the inside of my engine. I have 197k miles on the Burb.

I added some florescent dye to confirm the leak is motor oil. Coming from somewhere on the passenger side. I'm trying to isolate the root cause.

The cautions about using engine flushes and cleaners to remove internal engine deposits also seems to have the side effect of removing the deposits that plug up your engine leaks.:rolleyes:

-FF

Biggest source of leaking oil on the passenger side (based on my experience) is the turbocharger. Check the return from the bottom of the turbo itself to the pan - there is a steel flange/pipe that bolts to the turbo and there is a gasket in there that can leak. Lower down on the return line there is a portion that is rubber and this can also source a leak.

The engine-cleaner stuff could be coincidental to the leak..but FWIW I don't believe in any of that snake-oil stuff when it comes to diesels, and I think many others would share my opinion.

Biggest source of leaking oil on the passenger side (based on my experience) is the turbocharger. Check the return from the bottom of the turbo itself to the pan - there is a steel flange/pipe that bolts to the turbo and there is a gasket in there that can leak. Lower down on the return line there is a portion that is rubber and this can also source a leak.


Good intel. I had the heads replaced two summers ago so I hoped it wasn't the valve cover gaskets.

I've never had to take the turbo off yet. Is it better to remove the turbo to inspect and fix this leak or I hear it's not too bad to remove the inner fender well to gain access to that area.

What's the least path of resistance and effort?

As always, I appreciate the info!

Cheers,

-FF

Check your CDR. Also the turbo oil return line. All of them are on the passenger side. Also, the OPS can leak, it is way up there but it has the possibility to drip on the passenger side.

I have got several successful results from Auto-RX. I don't think it is the cause of the leak. Auto-RX will expose leaks because it cause the engine to run better, hence higher compression and oil pressure. It was like when I changed my exhaust to 4", I found out that the turbo wastegate solenoid was bad. The free flowing exhaust exposes the weakness in the system. That was before I used TM.

Good intel. I had the heads replaced two summers ago so I hoped it wasn't the valve cover gaskets.

It very well might be, but if you had them done not long ago, then it's unlikely..but when it comes to the 6.5 and oil leaks, anything is possible.

Can you see where the oil is coming from? Is it just a small drip every now and then...a consistent set of drips every time you shut down, or a significant amount?

Check your CDR. Also the turbo oil return line. All of them are on the passenger side. Also, the OPS can leak, it is way up there but it has the possibility to drip on the passenger side.

What's a CDR? Is that the tuna can looking thing? If so it's new but I will check it.

The OPS is new too but will check for leaks around it.

Can you see where the oil is coming from?

No. Using the dye I can see oil on the top side of the exhaust pipe close to where it connects to the exhaust manifold on the passenger side. Have not determined source yet. I purchased some florescent dye cleaner from Amazon to remove dye so I can try and locate the source of the leak.

Is it just a small drip every now and then...a consistent set of drips every time you shut down, or a significant amount?

After shut down a small puddle of oil forms under the vehicle on the passenger side. After long trips the back of the Burb has an oil mist covering it. The underside of the Burb on the passenger side is coated with oil from the front to the back including the rear wheel well, exhaust pipe and diff. When the tailpipe heats up the Burb smells like burning oil so I really need to get this fixed ASAP.

-FF

You may want to get it on a lift.

Yea I had the same leak on my 6.5 turns out the gasket on the oil return line off the turbo was missing and one bolt was missing also further down the oil return line were the hose is thier was only one clamp and it wasn't even on either end I was just in the middle of the hose so I put a new hose in with clamps and made a gasket and found a bolt slapped a bit of high temp silicone on It and now no more oil leak just gotta wash all the oil off the a arms an entire front half of the under body now no make sure I fixed the leak not to much fun taking off the turbo u know

Repairing the oil return line from the turbo does not require removal of the turbo. It is a pain to get it out from between the exhaust manifold, but it IS possible - I did it.

The new gasket is a few bucks. I recommend AGAINST silicone as the heat of the turbo can turn it into something resembling cement and make it almost impossible to get a good seal if you ever remove it again in the future. Again, ask me how I know this. :)

Use the proper gasket, and just the gasket. Mine sealed perfectly with the gasket alone...that was after I struggled to get the pipe off the truck and spent an hour with a fine dremel removing the "cement" courtesy of a repair shop who thought it was a good idea.

Yea I know about the proper gasket bit the closest te gasket was 4 days away I live in a little bum town at the top of northern alberta and I dunno I just love silicone guess cause I'm so used to working on superior white engine thier a big oil field engine as I am a millwright i specialize in natural gas engines and compressors but it didn't seem possible to take out the tube with out turbo removal it's so tight in thier lol but thanks for the advice on the silly cone I'll know next time I do this

Use the proper gasket, and just the gasket. Mine sealed perfectly with the gasket alone...that was after I struggled to get the pipe off the truck and spent an hour with a fine dremel removing the "cement" courtesy of a repair shop who thought it was a good idea.

Did you buy that gasket at the Dealer?

I prefer to have all parts ready when I begin the project.;)

Yes, found a dealer that had it in stock. I think they come in bags of 5/10 (I was told) so the dealers might be reluctant to order you a single since they get stuck with a handful of others they are unlikely to ever sell.

In my case the first dealer balked, but called around to other local dealers until they found one on-hand. They offered to transfer it to the location I was at for me, but it was only a 10 minute drive away so I went and picked it up.

The outlet pipe was a real witch to get out. I was almost ready to pull the turbo when I found the magic angle that it needed to be at in order to come out. Getting it back in was just as much fun....but still easier then pulling the turbo IMHO.

Thanks. I searched online and didn't find anything so I'll go to the dealer tomorrow and pick one up.

Thanks for the replies and advice!

-FF

I called the dealer and ordered the gasket. It comes in a pack of 5 like you said. I only need 1 gasket so if anyone wants to replace the gasket under the Turbo on the 6.5 TD where the oil drains back to the crankcase I'll sell it to you for $5.00 including shipping. Just PM me with mailing address, name and email address. We'll use PayPal. You know it gonna leak at some point so good to have one on hand. :D It cost me $3.25 each but with shipping and tax...figure $5 is about even.

I'll post when they are all gone.

Thanks, FF

Ok, turned out the real culprit was the injector return lines were leaking. The fuel was washing the dirt and grime off my engine as it dripped down so it looked like oil on the ground.

We installed high temp 100% viton tubing on all injector returns.

Now I feel bad for blaming Auto RX. :(

I have Auto-RX in my suburban now. Not a single leak of oil. My oil filter adapter was already leaking before ARX was added but it seems that it does not do it anymore. The oil drip mark is not there anymore. I will check it the next time I change the oil.

Some people are against cleaning agents and some are for. Ive used seafoam on about 20 cars and never once did I have a problem. Depends on how much gunk you have in there I guess.