kl8ton
07-13-2005, 05:06 PM
As Promised, here is a step by step.
Front Brake Rotor replacement on a K2500
Mine is a ’96, there may be variations
Jack front of vehicle up and put on jack stands….you can set parking brake for this
Remove front wheels
remove 2 allen bolts holding caliper (9MM)
pull calipers off and hang them from something secure (don’t strain brake line)
Open brake fluid reservoir and remove some brake fluid.
I leave the brake pad in that comes in contact with the piston
Use a c clamp and press the piston back in all the way
Remove 35MM nut and the washer from center of hub (I only had a 36MM and that worked fine)
remove 4 bolts on the knuckle (back side of hub assembly) 15MM – they are on GOOD. Do not round them.
Before trying to take the hub/rotor assembly off the spindle, grab a 13mm and remove all the brackets and supports for the abs sensor wire. DO NOT REMOVE THE SENSOR FROM THE HUB! THIS COST ME $104 at the dealer. Chances are you will break it coming out. Unplug the wire and slide the plug off of its mount.
Now try to rock the hub/rotor off the spindle side to side. The first time I took it off, I used a wheel puller.
Clean all the grease and rust off of everything.
Pound out the studs. I put a lug almost flush with the tip of the stud, so as not to mash the threads. Takes a couple of whacks. (you can also press these out for a safer less damaging approach)
Now the hub is free. (guard this abs wire with your life….remember it costs $104, negating the savings from having a brake shop do this job)
Place hub in new rotor and put studs back in. I put a washer over the stud and screwed a lug down hard to try to seat them (this is where a press would come in handy.) THEY MUST BE FULLY SEATED! Mine did seat when I torqued the wheel back on.
Grease bearings and spindle
make sure you clean your rotors with brake cleaner
Try to rock the hub rotor assembly back on. This took me a while to get the hang of, it will go on. It is a pain to line up that rotor shield and the hub and get the bolt to start to grab. . . It will go…I think the grease helps.
Installation is reverse of removal.
Pump brakes several times before moving to get pressure back up
Torque the four knuckle bolts to 133 foot pounds. The center hub bolt to 165 lbs and my wheels are torqed to 140 lbs. let me know if there are any changes that need to be made. Ask me questions or ask for clarification on things and I will edit the instructions as needed. Let’s consider this a rough draft.
Disclaimer: I am not a mechanic and take no responsibility for these instructions.
Front Brake Rotor replacement on a K2500
Mine is a ’96, there may be variations
Jack front of vehicle up and put on jack stands….you can set parking brake for this
Remove front wheels
remove 2 allen bolts holding caliper (9MM)
pull calipers off and hang them from something secure (don’t strain brake line)
Open brake fluid reservoir and remove some brake fluid.
I leave the brake pad in that comes in contact with the piston
Use a c clamp and press the piston back in all the way
Remove 35MM nut and the washer from center of hub (I only had a 36MM and that worked fine)
remove 4 bolts on the knuckle (back side of hub assembly) 15MM – they are on GOOD. Do not round them.
Before trying to take the hub/rotor assembly off the spindle, grab a 13mm and remove all the brackets and supports for the abs sensor wire. DO NOT REMOVE THE SENSOR FROM THE HUB! THIS COST ME $104 at the dealer. Chances are you will break it coming out. Unplug the wire and slide the plug off of its mount.
Now try to rock the hub/rotor off the spindle side to side. The first time I took it off, I used a wheel puller.
Clean all the grease and rust off of everything.
Pound out the studs. I put a lug almost flush with the tip of the stud, so as not to mash the threads. Takes a couple of whacks. (you can also press these out for a safer less damaging approach)
Now the hub is free. (guard this abs wire with your life….remember it costs $104, negating the savings from having a brake shop do this job)
Place hub in new rotor and put studs back in. I put a washer over the stud and screwed a lug down hard to try to seat them (this is where a press would come in handy.) THEY MUST BE FULLY SEATED! Mine did seat when I torqued the wheel back on.
Grease bearings and spindle
make sure you clean your rotors with brake cleaner
Try to rock the hub rotor assembly back on. This took me a while to get the hang of, it will go on. It is a pain to line up that rotor shield and the hub and get the bolt to start to grab. . . It will go…I think the grease helps.
Installation is reverse of removal.
Pump brakes several times before moving to get pressure back up
Torque the four knuckle bolts to 133 foot pounds. The center hub bolt to 165 lbs and my wheels are torqed to 140 lbs. let me know if there are any changes that need to be made. Ask me questions or ask for clarification on things and I will edit the instructions as needed. Let’s consider this a rough draft.
Disclaimer: I am not a mechanic and take no responsibility for these instructions.