i just had my heads off to do head gaskets and im having trouble getting fuel back into the lines and to the injectors. any suggestions on what i can do?

first make sure there is fuel getting to the ip. once there is air free fuel in the ip, crack 4 of the 8 injection lines(2 on each bank) and crank it over. fuel should eventually come out the injector lines(engine may start running rough). tighten the 4 lines once fuel comes out. then see if the engine will start, if not, bleed the other 4 lines. then the engine should start.

if you have compressed air you could crake all 8 of the lines and air up the tank, dont put more then 25 psi in the tank after you have aired it up go look at the lines and you should see air bubbbles and some fuel comming out make sure you are maintaining 20-25 psi in the tank and wehn the air bubbles stop you can tighten the lines and try to start it, it should start fine maybe alittle slower then normal, if you think you need to you can do what I did , I got a old fuel cap that fit my filler neck drilled a hole and pulled a valve stem through that way you can put a gauge on it and not have to worry about adding too much air or it leaking back out

do not put 25 psi of air in your 20+ year old fuel system. 4-5 psi is all that is recommended, this won't bleed air out of the injector lines. they still need to bleed by cranking over in short bursts of 10-15 secs with cooling periods inbetween

Its worked for many differant times on all sorts of diesel engines, but yes depending on the condition of your fuel system you wouldnt add that much air right away

it may bleed the injector line that has the head and rotor in line, but it can't bleed any others. all it accomplish's, is to fill and prime the pump to make the process quicker.

I have several fuel tank caps constructed with Schrader (tire fill) valves for this purpose. I've found that a small amount of air, less than 5 psi, will prime the primary system. The injector pump is self-priming but loosening the high pressure lines will speed the process.

If the system is dry, I prime it by loosening the lines and cranking for a few seconds, cool the starter and repeat the process until fuel begins to appear at the nozzle end of the lines. Tighten the lines and repeat the 10 -15 seconds cranking drill, it usually starts on the third or fourth try. Some systems are a bit fussy and take more time to purge. I use a shop charger during the process, set on high during cranking and low during the cooldown time. I don't use the 'boost' cycle on my charger because the internal circuit breaker kicks on and off during cranking, to prevent damage to the charger.