Hey guys. Still have that darn lifter tick. I pulled the valve cover on the driver's side and ran it today. seems like all of the pushrods are getting oil up to the rockers, except the #1 intake seems to take a while before i see the oil start to run down from the top of the rocker to the bottom. Running it with the intake off it's hard to listen for the ticking since you've got the chug-a -lug from the EGR ports. By the way these engines sound PISSED when run open intake. They really snort.

Anyways so i don't know where to turn next. Since i can't tell exactly which lifter it is, now what? Would it be a good idea to re-install the intake, air filter housing and silencer as to quiet down the engine bay so i can listen for the ticking?

Can the #1 intake lifter(the one closest to the radiator) be removed without removing the head? I am not removing the head on this thing for a damn lifter. I outright refuse, not to mention i don't have the money for headbolts, a headgasket, etc.

Also i finally found my fuel leak today. THe #4 injector line was dripping where it attached to the IP. The reason it took a long drive for me to see the drips on the ground was because the valley drain hole was plugged full of dirt. I cleaned that out and noticed the trail of diesel. Sure enough when it's running i was getting a "drip drip drip" from the line. I got tired of fighting the injectors lines with my home made 5/8" 90* bend wrench, so i went out and bought SAE flare style crow's foots from NAPA. With my little wrench i couldn't turn the line any more. With the crow's foot i got almost an entire turn out of the line. I pray that solves it, but i'll find out tomorrow.

yes you can change it. with magnet and picks, its a little bit hidden into the casting of the head, exhaust is easy. so is next intake, then next is hard and the pattern repeats. rvx1000 did his 6.5 this way, PIA but it got changed

so does the #1 intake sound like my issue as it seemed like it took forever for the oil to get up there. It had to run for a while before i saw evidence of oil from the pushrod end/rocker oiling hole. The other's seemed to come up faster.

When the engine goes bonkers and starts misfiring i get smoke from the exhaust(not sure which side as this was when i had the duals exiting the rear) and i do not hear any popping back into the intake. Sounds like an upset intake lifter right?

I still have to do motor mounts on this truck, yet i don't want to put new mounts in when that engine has that shake to it. That shake can't be good for the mounts.

did you try a mechanics stethascope?

i know some of mine were slow squirting oil

:damnit1:

this noise can't be good.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iqpb_1AWhw0

It sounds like its' coming from the EGR ports, as i can't hear it with the intake on.

As the video says i changed the #5 intake lifter as it seemed noisy compared to the others. That rocker just started to get oil to it when i was taking the video.

Do i have a burnt valve or could that be something else?

I did my 6.5 had one that went bad about 500 k after i installed the used engine .
did the one's on the driver side

It is a P I A to do but not impossible ... , Used two magnets long skinny screw driver. The worst part was to get the lifter back in the right way so that the keepers (retainers ) would fit into place . Also need a small flash light . I used the push rod to pull the lifter out of the hole (had a very strong magnet on the push rod )
I had a buddy helping , but in the end it is easier to do by myself (not enough room for 4 hands )

Pic's are a little fuzzy , the top of the lifter had turned , Replaced all 8

i mention he did it, and he appears, i'm magical. and yes Vernn I'm in GP, warm up the BBQ lol

i mention he did it, and he appears, i'm magical. and yes Vernn I'm in GP, warm up the BBQ lol

your up here again :eek: !!!!!

I'll get the steaks and beverages, ... you bring the dancing girl's..... :D

if you put your glasses on , you'd see i sent you a PM on tues. lol. apparently its real busy up here, i went to the bc border from spirit river last night, minutes after i drove here from red deer.

i can't think of a better guy to hijack a thread. sorry dave.. back on track, any updates dave?

PM what does that stand for ???

There is something red on the right hand upper corner of the page i better check that out !!!! :D

Dave, don't discount the idea that it couldn't be an exhaust valve. the tick just means play between the pushrod/rocker/lifter. slight play=tick and the valve still opens and exhausts, so no popping back when the intake opens

so are you saying it could be a burnt valve? :confused:

Once its' no longer 90 frickin degrees here i plan on going outside and pulling the rockers and pushrods and looking down to see if any of the lifters are physically out of place like Revx's was.

also plan on doing a compression test at some point. I just have to find the effort to remove all the glowplugs.

it could be anything. but you've been on the hunt for a ticking intake. sitting and thinking about it a bit, it could easily be an exhaust. i just didn't want you to keep hunting for an issue that could be down the wrong road.

when its not 90 degrees... so were talking 2nd week of sept?

it could be anything. but you've been on the hunt for a ticking intake. sitting and thinking about it a bit, it could easily be an exhaust. i just didn't want you to keep hunting for an issue that could be down the wrong road.

when its not 90 degrees... so were talking 2nd week of sept?

lol. well it just started thundering. My house shook the thunder was so close.

Oh well. guess i'm not doing that work today.

its not thunder, its another earthquake in ontario

yours sounds like mine did . In the cab you could hear it poping back,and tick noise.

I too did a compression test they were all good , running you could not tell even which side it was on . I used a scope and still could not tell what side.

under hard acceleration and higher rpm the noise would be gone

I pulled the intake and lines off the driverside ,I was hopeing that it was on d/side .I did not want too pull the p/side . on the bad one the rocker really was not loose. surprising as bad as that lifter is . When i went to pull the push rods out , that one would not come out of the lifter then i know for sure it was the one !!! I did not run it with valve cover off so not sure how the oil was coming up the push rod

I have about 7 k on it now and been good so far !!!

yours sounds like mine did . In the cab you could hear it poping back,and tick noise.

I too did a compression test they were all good , running you could not tell even which side it was on . I used a scope and still could not tell what side.

under hard acceleration and higher rpm the noise would be gone

I pulled the intake and lines off the driverside ,I was hopeing that it was on d/side .I did not want too pull the p/side . on the bad one the rocker really was not loose. surprising as bad as that lifter is . When i went to pull the push rods out , that one would not come out of the lifter then i know for sure it was the one !!! I did not run it with valve cover off so not sure how the oil was coming up the push rod

I have about 7 k on it now and been good so far !!!

Just checked the first four lifters on the driver's side. everything looks normal. all pushrods come out with no effort once the rockers are off. They are just sitting on top of the lifters liek they are supposed to be. I'll check the back 4 once it cools off outside a little. Passenger side valve cover will be coming off tomorrow. It's never been off as far as i know. I've got a set of valve cover gaskets i want to install anyways. Annoying but it should stop the slight valve cover leaks. The 5th lifter(#5 intake) was fine too as was the lifter that diaric sent me that i installed in its place).

hopefully i'll figure this out. If not i'll just throw it back together and run it. It'll either blow up or live like that forever. It doesn't seem to be hurting it any save for the random times when i'll loose a cyl completely for about 10 seconds or so. That's the only reason I'm stuck on a lifter problem. A burned valve wouldn't come and go like it does. It would get progressively worse as time went on.

It is hard to pin point what side & where the noise is ...

If it was me i would use the silicone black stuff. Years back when i o'haul the 91 i put gaskets in and always had a little leak on the back corners (firewall ). I replaced them about 10 k after o'haul and they still leaked , I pulled them off 3rd time and did the silicone thing never leaked after that. I used what is called " the right stuff" black high heat with no gasket no more leaks. I hated that smell , run down on the exh manifolds ,then in slow travel or idlng the a/c , heater would bring it into the cab:eek:

Did the same on this 98 and no leaks !!! Also check and make sure your covers are flat where the bolts go. Mine were pulled down at the bolts and was then not pulling even on the rest of the cover.

Good luck keep us posted lol

x2. the right stuff is expensive, but its damn good. i buy it in the caulking tube, use it for diff covers etc.

i got some black RTV that was rated up to around 600*F. i used it on my EGR block off plate and it never leaked so its good stuff. cant remember the name of it off the top of my head though. it was in a tube about the size of toothpaste.

Ok passenger side valve cover has been removed. I don't notice anything out of the ordinary under there either.

WTF!?!

I'm going to put the injector liens back on and run it with both valve covers removed. That way i can see if anything presents itself while the engine's running.

That chuff sound i'm getting in that video i posted further back in this thread is coming form an EGR port. The question is which one. I was debating fabbing up a crude EGR block plate that i can just bolt on over the EGR port, one side at a time, to see if i can narrow down which side that sound is coming from.

Don't know what else to do short of put it back together and run it until it blows up or shut's up. I'd love to just rip the engine out and put another in, or build this one to exactly what i want, but that's in a budget-less world, and right now my budget = non existent.

Any thoughts from you guys would really be helpful before i just throw in the towel all together.

- Dave

fab up a block off that you can suck on with a couple of intake bolt holes. see if it makes noise on just one side or both. if its one side, something must be amiss in the center, but it does sound like a popping of sorts. nice accent, by the way lol

Hmm.....

Noticed something strange when i pulled the first set of rockers off of the passenger side. The 4th rocker back, when i went to pull that pushrod out i heard a light click noise. At this point i went to get a flashlight and got the best view i could. When i pull up on the pushrod the lifter lifts up, until it touches the retainer and then it drops down and the pushrod comes out.

Could oil cause the pushrod and lifter to stick together? I can see it doing it once, but it does it every time i place the pushrod back on the lifter almost like the pushrod tip is going "inside" the lifter, instead of on top of it like it should.

take the pushrod out and see if its clear. maybe if the pushrod is clogged it kinda makes a suction in the oil that holds the 2 pieces together?

isn't that kinda what revx1000 commented about. that the pushrod was jamming in the lifter. regardless, it doesn't sound right, toss in one of my lifters and see if it goes away.
what sort of suction is brent talking about?

isn't that kinda what revx1000 commented about. that the pushrod was jamming in the lifter. regardless, it doesn't sound right, toss in one of my lifters and see if it goes away.
what sort of suction is brent talking about?

I don't think i want to know. :hehe:

I'll dig back into that truck later on. I've got someone coming to service the central A/C system today. The evaporator keeps freezing up. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/images/smilies/spend.gif

never mind, i cant explain it without using a visual aid lol. and DONT EVEN GET SICK ON ME GUYS!

Compression test results. The two numbers are the range they were in as my gauge goes up in 20 psi marks(a.k.a. 300,320,340,360,380,400).

Cylinder

1 - 375-380
2 - 365-370
3 - 375-380
4 - 365-370
5 - 365-370
6 - 365-370
7 - 360-365
8 - 375-380


All the cylinders are even. That test was with the engine cold, and 6 "puffs" on the gauge. My book says to do 6 "puffs" with the engine warm, but considering the injection lines and valve covers are off, warming up the engine wasn't happening.

So where do i turn now? A burned valve would've shown something even if it was only slight on a comp test right?

After all that I decided to do something a little less stressful so i painted my intake and both valve covers Alpine Green. The only thing that sucks is one of my "Goodwrench 6.2 diesel" stickers that was in very poor health finally bit the dust. Now only one valve cover has a sticker. *shrugs* Oh well.

did you change that lifter yet?

you know... if i was smarter (can't remember what software i was using) i had on that you could select specific frequencies to look for in a video thats playing and figure out what was making the sound. it was actually really cool. i want to say goldwave is right.... but I've only used the audio tool, and ran the video tool once.... a long time ago. I'll look into it some more and see if I can find something for ya Dave. it'd be cool if it's linked to one of the moving parts that you can see easy.

And did you try cleaning the evaporator on your house? Or is it really, really humid right now where your at?

The home A/C was down about 2 lbs of R-22 refrigerant. A/C tech came out, added some R-22, and problem solved. That's the first service in 13 years since the system was installed, so i guess theres a tiny leak.

And Brent. Which lifter? I change the #5 intake because it was a little noisy. Still no change in the ticking. I haven't any idea which lifter it is, but at this point i'm going to keep running it. When i can afford to buy all new lifters I'll be doing that.

the one that was sticking to the pushrod.

the one that was sticking to the pushrod.

it was just the oil film causing it to stick. I got a really good look at it. The lifter looked fine.

dave, i'm dissapointed the saga continues

dave, i'm dissapointed the saga continues

I"m disappointed too. I can't find anything out of the ordinary at all. You'd think with that tick i'd find something, anything that would explain it. I think i'll just replace all the lifters with brand new ones once i can afford it. Autozone wants $10.99 a lifter, which is BS. Not 6 months ago the price was $7.99 a lifter. :mad:

thats cheaper than rock auto,, what the heck,,, damn they went up

fan-friggin-tastic.....Censored Censored


If it isn't one thing it's another with this damn truck. Now my rebuilt DB2's advance piston is sticking.

There's less than 3,000 miles on this IP and it's been installed for less than a year. :whyme:

I wonder if that's the shake and stumble when the motor's warm and idling?

Plans of getting this damn thing back together today have been halted. No sense putting it all back together when i'll just have to tear it apart again.

Damn it.....

You know why you keep having problems with it don't ya?








It's cuz you hardly drive it when it IS together........ ):h

You know why you keep having problems with it don't ya?








It's cuz you hardly drive it when it IS together........ ):h

Either that or the bitch breaks on me so she can go back to sleep. I don't think she's happy that i woke her from a 11 year slumber and proceeded to beat the hell out of her. ):h

Either that or the bitch breaks on me so she can go back to sleep. I don't think she's happy that i woke her from a 11 year slumber and proceeded to beat the hell out of her. ):h


:hehe:

:idea: maybe you should just drive it till she blows apart. or at least Brent would. :D Mine sat for 3-4 years before I got it, and I've yet to clean all the grime that holding mine together. :eek: wait could that be all of my fuel line issues? hmmmm I'm gonna have to think about that.

:idea: maybe you should just drive it till she blows apart. or at least Brent would. :D Mine sat for 3-4 years before I got it, and I've yet to clean all the grime that holding mine together. :eek: wait could that be all of my fuel line issues? hmmmm I'm gonna have to think about that.

I plan to drive it until it either grenades or shuts up. Which will happen only time will tell. A replacement used engine or military take out can be had for a decent price if it takes the grenade path.

Right now i have to get an IP issue worked out before i can even put it back together.

Any ideas on a solution for a sticking advance piston. Jigaloo et al hasn't helped too much

Any ideas on a solution for a sticking advance piston. Jigaloo et al hasn't helped too much

I've heard you can remove it and lightly sand it. I'm guessing with a very fine sandpaper until it no longer sticks in the bore.

since you said that wierd noise was an egr port id look towards an exhaust valve/lifter on that side of the engine, or just put it back together (with sticky advance piston) and continue to beat the crap out of it till something quits (noise or engine) :D

since you said that wierd noise was an egr port id look towards an exhaust valve/lifter on that side of the engine, or just put it back together (with sticky advance piston) and continue to beat the crap out of it till something quits (noise or engine) :D

What bugs me in the compression wasn't perfect, yet it was all even and between 360 and 380 psi with a dead cold engine. One would think a bad valve would leak even a little bit with that much pressure.

What bugs me in the compression wasn't perfect, yet it was all even and between 360 and 380 psi with a dead cold engine. One would think a bad valve would leak even a little bit with that much pressure.
all your cylinders are leaking compression and all ticking just to make you scrach your head trying to find it hehe :whistle:

all your cylinders are leaking compression and all ticking just to make you scrach your head trying to find it hehe :whistle:

lol. i wouldn't doubt it.

OK well i've got my Reman IP removed. The advance piston is sticking all the way in. Grrrr...... 3,000 Censored miles on it and it's been installed less than a year.

I honestly don't think i should have to repair it myself considering how fresh this IP is and it's already got something wrong with it. I paid good money for this IP.

Regardless I've been debating swapping the entire assembly from my Junk IP to the reman, however the junk IP was water damaged due to water in the fuel/condensation. That's the only thing that's stopping me.

I swapped the little piston that the face cam presses on thats on the outside with the one from the junk IP, and there was no change. I put that little external piston into the junk IP and it worked perfectly. The little piston i was able to remove with a magnet without taking the IP apart.

So it's not the little external piston that's messed up, it's something internal in the advance setup. Just friggin great. :mad:

you like to learn how stuff works dave, take it apart and see whats up. just be sure to remember how it goes back together :D

:mad::mad: I just don't want to mess with it. Maybe i should list it in the marketplace. I'm sure someone who's not fed up with it could easily fix it considering it only has 3,000 miles on it.

Send it to tech venture so he can see if it`s his IP or not.

what do you mean see if it's his or not? I know exactly where it came from if that's what you mean.

Who is this Tech venture you speak of. Would he be able to fix the issue with the advance I'm having?

T.V 's IP may or may not be shot that was what \I was referring to but methinks maybe you knew that. Is the IP out. Shoot some oil up in there then watch some world cup and everytime there isn't a goal scored push and pull on that piston.

dont watch the world cup, you might die of bordom.

think i could just squirt a little ND SAE 30 oil in there? I've got a little oil sprayer full of it for my shop compressor.

My IP is still installed but I saturated the lever and that piston head with jigaloo and worked it for a while. It came back to a bit of life then died a slow death, tried again with same results. Now I'm bored with that and if I remove the IP my spare will go on since the advance seems to still work and it's a j code. Haven't been bugged. enough yet to do that yet. I think if you could get some good pentrating oil in there and work it a bit that it should start working again. But look at my sig, I really don't know