First I'd like to thank Tim at Midwest, and &^%$, as well as *&&^%$, and #@$%^ too for all their help. Some of the helpers wish to remain anonymous as they are waiting for a bowl of soup.

I was going to do a deluxe tutorial, but time didn't allow it. This is the best I can do for today. Sorry.

You will need:

20x1.5 metric nut (20mm fine thread metric)
4mm washers (9.0-8.0 OD) that will make a stack that is .75mm thick
fuel line removal tool
18mm 6pt wrench or socket
Vise and some aluminum strips, or softjaw vise.
crescent wrench

To understand the problem, see my thread about P1093's: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37098&highlight=P1093


First you need to remove your Pressure Relief Valve from the driver's side fuel rail in the rear. It is an 18mm hex head that was tightened by the hand of God. You may need an impact wrench to remove it, or worse case, remove the entire rail. You will have to remove the glow plug controller and a fuel line or two to give you enough room.

Once you have removed it, you will need to disassemble it. This is where the vise and 20mm nut come in:

You put the valve in a vice with the 18mm hex pointed up, and the 20mm nut threaded onto the body threads. If the vice has steel jaws, use a couple of brass or aluminum shims to grip it. You will grip it on the GRAY needle housing, not the gold spring housing.

Turn the 20mm nut clockwise and it will pull the valve apart.

Now you will put the shims into the bottom of the gold spring housing.

Replace the spring and put the housing/spring back on the needle valve housing.

The needle housing and spring housing are swaged together, so you will not be able to reassemble with your hands completely, for this you use the vise:

McRat...

Can you point me to a good source to get the washers

When you press it together, make sure it goes together straight. Peen down the 3 swages, and clean off carefully with compressed air.

Reassemble into fuel rail as tight as you can. It's the tightness of assembly that keeps it from leaking, NOT the swaging!.

Use the "bottle test" to make sure it has sealed correctly and you have enough shim.

I will do a better write up when I have a good camera and more than 5 minutes to take pictures.

I get washers at McFaddendale Hardware. You will get them at any industrial supply hardware store. You will need a micrometer or calipers to pick the right ones.

Great!! Thanks for the how-to.

PS - The pictures of washers, how far to put the nut on, where the nut is, etc, etc, etc, etc, all were no good. Next truck I do, I will do a better job. Kinda ashamed how "lightweight" this writeup is, but I know alot of people are waiting on it so I decided to give them what I had. :(

If you want the helpers to remain anonymous, you should blur out their names engraved into the tools):h

Ok, I give, you can use my truck for the next install and pictorial, I'll bring a 12 pk for ya:grd: !

See other P1093 posts

I just want to confirm that it is a .75mm stack we want? So 30 thousands of an inch? That's pretty tiny.

.030" works on most trucks I've tested, but one truck would still 1093 running a big stack once in a blue moon. I would recommend .040" now (1.0mm)

Thank you.

McRat--- Thanks a lot for the great write up. Much appreciated. I will probably shim my truck but one question though... Isnt shimming the relief valve dangerous? Like should something go wrong and it needs to releive pressure on the fuel rail, will it not be able to do so with the shims? I would hate to have something "burst" and come apart at 24000 PSI and spray fuel everywhere!! I just want to make sure that shimming it is not completely disabling an important safety system.

---Ben

It is not safe driving a 7500lb pickup 115mph.

It is not safe spraying nitrous or propane or water meth.

Dragracing is unsafe.

Lift pumps are unsafe.

Working underneath your truck is dangerous.

At this point there are more than a dozen trucks with this mod in place. So far, no problems. THIS DOES NOT MEAN THERE WILL NOT BE A PROBLEM LATER. Use this info at your own risk.

Much like stacking tuners, do this at your own risk. To the best of my knowledge, there is not a way to run a 13 second ET in an LLY without throwing an occassional P1093 code other than doing this mod.

I do know this. Throwing a 1093 when passing a car on a two lane mountain road is VERY dangerous. Our only other option is not to run tunes bigger than 85hp on the street.

OPPSSS - In case I misunderstood the question:

Shimming the relief valve .030" raises the pop-off pressure about 10%-15%. The pressure relief valve is still functional, and it WILL still pop off (we know that because one truck will still dump fuel rail pressure with .030").

Ahh ok thanks thats what info I needed to put my mind at ease. I perfectly understand how it could be potentially dangerous...but then again...what mod (as you described in your first reply) isnt?? All I needed to know was that still allows the relief valve to function, just at a little higher PSI. Im perfectly fine with that...what WOULD prevent me (definetly) from doing this mod is if it completely defeated the relief valve. Even being free of 1093's would not be enough (IMO) to outweigh the fact of a defeated important safety device. BUT...it just raises the popping pressure...I have faith in GM and Bosch that they over designed the fuel rail to be able to take a little more pressure should *something* go wrong and cause a fuel-rail over-pressure condition (beyond the point of a stock relief valve, but not enough to pop our "modified" relief valves). Well...guess im off to "fix" my relief valve!! Thanks again McRat for the tutorial!!!

---Ben

I can't wait to do this mod. My truck is a P1093 setting machine with the Hot xcellerator. Edge has it down pretty good. With the last few months running the latest version of edge on 5/5 daily I have never set a 1093. Not once. Since I have installed this xcellerator two days ago I have set it at least a dozen times.

I know it may be pointless, but I'd still like to know why some trucks are MUCH more prone to 1093s than others. I ONLY set 1093s when I'm really low on fuel and then romp on it and quickly let off. I know others get the classic 1093 after a sudden acceleration followed by the letoff, but I only set them when I'm on the fumes.

I will admit I haven't tested much other than the Predator due to time/money. :) But I'd nearly guarantee you couldn't set a 1093 on my truck with the Predator unless I'm REALLY low on fuel.

Some trucks will set the type II 1093 stock. Other trucks barely set it bombed. The difference is probably the spring tension in the PRV. This mod ups the spring tension.

It is actually more dangerous to set a 1093 once in a blue moon than constantly. When you are not setting it constantly, you are more likely to put yourself in a situation that acceleration is required for safety.

My 04.5 set this code repeatedly without a chip. I blamed part of it on the new fuel filters. My dealer mechanic said there was a known issue, and replaced the part you guys are modifing. No codes since, even with a tuner. Sounds like your on the right track and GM is there also.

Do you happen to have that part number? If different from the original p/n, it might be the ideal way to help some guys out (rid them of this code without performing a "non factory" mod). Just a thought.


My 04.5 set this code repeatedly without a chip. I blamed part of it on the new fuel filters. My dealer mechanic said there was a known issue, and replaced the part you guys are modifing. No codes since, even with a tuner. Sounds like your on the right track and GM is there also.

GM only sells it as a complete driver's side fuel rail. There is no GM P/N for just the relief valve, even though it is available through Bosch. I do not know how to get them from Bosch.

GM only sells it as a complete driver's side fuel rail. There is no GM P/N for just the relief valve, even though it is available through Bosch. I do not know how to get them from Bosch.

I have a box for one. I will not divulge my source but I had it tested and modified. Straight from Bosch it was pretty weak. I'll see if I can scan the label of the box with the info tonight. Maybe that will help.

Here is a pic of the box.

I can't wait to do this mod. My truck is a P1093 setting machine with the Hot xcellerator. Edge has it down pretty good. With the last few months running the latest version of edge on 5/5 daily I have never set a 1093. Not once. Since I have installed this xcellerator two days ago I have set it at least a dozen times.

Ditto

I have a box for one. I will not divulge my source but I had it tested and modified. Straight from Bosch it was pretty weak. I'll see if I can scan the label of the box with the info tonight. Maybe that will help.

lakingslayer,

All Bosch parts have a 10 digit part number (not the 1110010011 on the box). The SKU number means nothing to Bosch. That SKU is probably from GM or elsewhere. If there is a 10 digit part number on the valve, or if someone can get one, we can probably get some if it is sold as a "service part". It appears that since GM has proprietary agreements with Bosch, it may not be readily available that way. If someone can get the number, I will check.

Or, maybe you can get some more and sell them here?

lakingslayer,

All Bosch parts have a 10 digit part number (not the 1110010011 on the box). The SKU number means nothing to Bosch. That SKU is probably from GM or elsewhere. If there is a 10 digit part number on the valve, or if someone can get one, we can probably get some if it is sold as a "service part". It appears that since GM has proprietary agreements with Bosch, it may not be readily available that way. If someone can get the number, I will check.

Or, maybe you can get some more and sell them here?

Actually, that is the Bosch part number. I called a local Bosch dealer and they found the part with that number, surprisingly.

Actually, that is the Bosch part number. I called a local Bosch dealer and they found the part with that number, surprisingly.

Where did you call.. as the people I spoke to had no clue.

Where did you call.. as the people I spoke to had no clue.

I just called a local dealer that I found from the Bosch site. Do a search on there, hopefully you will find someone close to you.

Here is a 10 digit P/N I got off the top of the valve. 05-03-240-002

The zero in 240 could be wrong. It's hard to read due to the machining but I'm pretty sure that's what it is.

If someone wants me to modify a valve for them once they get another, or remove theirs, I'll do that for $15 + shipping.

So if one is to get a new valve is going to be set any higher? Or are you still going to have to shim it? I've got the 20mm nut and one 4mm washer that measures .03"=.76mm to do it.
I've set 3 1093's in the last 9000mi, 2 on 85hp and 1 on 65hp and the last happened when my foot slipped off the accelerator and reapplied. I'm guessing I may be a canidate for the shimming? If I would stack programmers it's only gonna get worse right?

1093's happen more frequently with bigger tunes and stacks.

Once again don't shim the valves just because you can.Get some actual measurements and assemble heights.There is way too much inconsistancy in these valves (new and used) to just pick a shim value.Have a starting and ending seat value to shoot for. Those trying this on your own at least have a method to the madness. Use at own risk. Tim

Excuse my ignorance but was it explained somewhere how to measure these to figure out where we are at and where we should be?

Measure the spring pocket to the inner shoulder and then the silver pintle/needle piece (assembled) from the washer with the 3 holes to the top. Add the 2 values. Most valves are .780 I have seen as low as .740.The highest seat pressure I have seen is 40#@ assembled height and that was a valve that poped on a stock truck.I have seen from 25-38# on new valves.Different springs in different valves all have different results.Measure the assembled height and check the sping at that height.Shoot for 40# and whatever % you want to increase it. You will need a spring tester to get a starting and target pressure.

Here's the scoop on the pressure relief valves. The actual Bosch people cannot make sense of either part number 1110010011 or 05-03-240-002, which is funny since it's off an actual Bosch sticker/label. However, if you go to www.boschservice.com (http://www.boschservice.com) and click on the proper link on the top for local service (must be a diesel shop), you will get a list of service providers in your state. I called one of mine and the 1110010011 works for them. Price is $137.78 each. If anyone else finds a better price, please post it with the relevant contact info.

I was just wondering. The new 06 motors are supposed to operate at 26,000 psi. Does that mean the General simply changed the specs on the relief valve to compensate for the 1093's people were throwing? I am wondering if a 06 pressure relief valve would work in our older trucks?

I just ordered one from Randy at DIS. 800-658-9355 He knows all about them.

So you just ordered a 2006 pressure relief valve? Or another 2001-2005 valve... How does it work so far and if you dont mind, what was the rough price?

thanks---Ben

So you just ordered a 2006 pressure relief valve? Or another 2001-2005 valve... How does it work so far and if you dont mind, what was the rough price?
thanks---Ben

I ordered a valve for the 04.5/05 trucks. Haven't installed it yet. IIRC, right at $165 delivered.

Perfect, thanks a lot for the info and contact.

:wtf1:
I went to get the parts to do this today and....
I couldn't find a 20-1.5 nut. I tried the specialty fastener places as well.
I guess I will have to go to "the city":damnit1:

Check with the auto parts stores.You can use the nut for jap car drive axle.It's the nut that holds the cv joint to the hub.

You can also order a kit from dmaxallitech that includes the nut.

Mike, I have one. I'll try to do the mod this weekend and then send it to you, if you haven't found one. Let me know.

I shimmed up a Bosch unit (number previously posted) this pm.

The metric hardware readily available were 4mm flat washers instead of shims (about .029 thick ..each). Both were filed down and the stack (two) ended up at exactly .040. The filing went quicker with two bastard files (one was chucked up lightly in the bench vise).

I had difficulty with the valve slipping on the aluminium stock I used to protect the valve from the vise jaws. Aluminium vise jaws inserts would have been the hot trick here.

I had a small screwdriver that moved the process along (opened up the swagged/staked areas on the housing slightly). The next time the m20 metric nut tightened up apart it came.

When it was re-assy. I used a slightly dull center punch to stake/swag the housing back to the valve. I also put both shims up inside the body then the spring, the spacer, then the pintle, followed by the base. I was afraid that the shim might block off some of the holes should it ever pop off (perhaps an unnecessary concern).

I may make up a pop test device that one could use the regulator with from the air compressor to see the approximate psi that blows the valve open.

I'll share the instructions, as time permits for R&D.

I may also be coming across a couple of used rails that will have valves we could mod on an exchange basis for those less inclined to mess with it themselves. Is 40 psi pop off sufficient not to set the code or to allow fuel in the bottle? The ones in the Dodge Cummins apps. seem to be running a little more rail pressures than the Duramax...

Thanks for the tips on this mod.:bow:

Good luck
Andy

Andy-- Id DEFINETLY be interested in a core exchange type thing...im too afraid to mod my valve myself!

---Ben

Is 40 psi pop off sufficient not to set the code or to allow fuel in the bottle? The ones in the Dodge Cummins apps. seem to be running a little more rail pressures than the Duramax...

Thanks for the tips on this mod.:bow:

Good luck
Andy

I've tried to set a code with mine shimmed to .039 to no avail:D , but I think it depends on the spring rate more then the thickness of the shim. You'd need to develop a standard of some sort to make an exchange work. I don't think just throwing in .040 shims will do it IMO:) .

Yeah, good call Rob... Arent all the springs slightly different? Like some expand and get easier to "pop" when they get hot? While others are consistant regardless of temp?

---ben

The 40# I refer to is the spring seat pressure@ the proper assembled height.You can't test pop off pressure with an air conpressor.Valve require in excess of 20,000 psi.Don't just shim without a before and after measurement and a target pressure. TIM

Tim how would one measure the "popping" pressure before and after, so we know exactly how much to shim our specific spring?

---Ben

An $80,000 bosch test stand or lots of time with a industrial pressure gauge and a jug between your legs.):h Several test runs ploting and ploting and ploting till you find the spike pressure.I made a test stand with a cp3 pump and a industrial pressure gauge using test fluid.It's not prefect science but at least I can duplicate valves.A spring tester is the only accurate way to measure what you have at the assembled height. Tim

I was just wondering. The new 06 motors are supposed to operate at 26,000 psi. Does that mean the General simply changed the specs on the relief valve to compensate for the 1093's people were throwing? I am wondering if a 06 pressure relief valve would work in our older trucks? I am interested in this, anyone know if this is true or not?????

Yeah, thats a good thought...does anyone know if the fuel rails are different/stengthened/redesigned?? When a system is running that high a pressure, there must be a huge safety margin...do you think our rails could handle 26,000 PSI? I know the max pressure stock is like what...23,200??

---Ben

Ok, I've looked at 2 different hardware stores, Napa, Case Tractor, John Deere tractor,auto parts stores, lumber shops. I can't find the nut or the washers, WTF? Hey McRat, what if I paypal'd you to send me the nut and washers? I assuming you have a micrometer:rolleyes: . I don't. Just a thought.

OR anyone with this core exchange deal????? I NEED to get rid of these 1093's.

Eric stocks them. (dmaxallitech) www.gmdieseltech.com

Yeah i'd be willing to do a core exchange type thing too!!!!!

---ben

Shimming the valve is the easy part. Getting it out is the tough part. Shimming the valve is a piece of cake and the nut is cheaper then shipping. On top of that the cores would get wrecked because it is quite common to round them off a bit when trying to remove.

Is it safe to use an impact wrench and socket on the valve? Or should we use a breaker bar?

--ben

You can use an impact if you can get it on there. You'll need a really small impact. Best bet is a 6 point Snap-on (very important) flat wrench.

You'll never get any impact in there.I use a snap on wrench (extra long)with flank drive and have no problems.Just make sure you pull straight the first time.Most cheap sockets and wrenches do not have the bite close enough to the edge and only grabs half the relief valve.If you want to grind down a cheaper socket or wrech to get more bite it might work.I would not try it without my snap on wrench.Remember you get one shot in the truck and if you round it off you have to pull the fuel rail.It's alot of work to pull the rail when with the correct tool it can be changed in 5 minutes. Tim

I bought an extra long 18mm box end from MAC. It fits with a square bite and it made the removal super easy. Toughest part was reinstalling the valve without dropping it.

Local Sears had a six point box end wrench for about $15.00. Worked great the two times I've done it. I used another wrench over the end of the craftsman for leverage. I found the nut at a local industrial hardware(nuts and bolts) place same with the 4mm washer.

I'm pretty sure the nut McRat stated in the first post (20 x 1.5) is the course thread, you need the fine thread(I think it's a 20 x 2.5)

I rounded off one using a cheap wrench. Don't do it. The SnapOn wrench works.

Certain 1/2 drive impacts will fit in there and work. But it's VERY tight.

Local Sears had a six point box end wrench for about $15.00. Worked great the two times I've done it. I used another wrench over the end of the craftsman for leverage. I found the nut at a local industrial hardware(nuts and bolts) place same with the 4mm washer.

I'm pretty sure the nut McRat stated in the first post (20 x 1.5) is the course thread, you need the fine thread(I think it's a 20 x 2.5) Actually, I think you have that backwards.........I believe the 20x1.5 is fine thread and the 2.5 which is more common is coarse thread.


How about a 6pt. crafstman socket?
12pt? craftsman wrench?

I did find the washers and the nut........"Fastenal" had the washers and had to order the nut. They don't have micrometers, guess I will buy more than enough washers and find a micrometer to use.

Actually, I think you have that backwards.........I believe the 20x1.5 is fine thread and the 2.5 which is more common is coarse thread.


How about a 6pt. crafstman socket?
12pt? craftsman wrench?

I did find the washers and the nut........"Fastenal" had the washers and had to order the nut. They don't have micrometers, guess I will buy more than enough washers and find a micrometer to use. Heck I dont' know maybe i'm wrong, seems that 2.5 would be a finer thread.............:o:

.030" is about 7-8 sheets of normal copier paper (.004"), or 2 matchbook covers (.015")

I HIGHLY recommend buying a snap-on wrench. I used a wrench I had here and it is not a cheap wrench. I rounded it off and the snap on saved the day. The snap on has the bite very close to the edge of the wrench and it is needed due to the valve having such a small bite area and so close to the rail. You don't want to have to pull the rail off!

Thanks Mr McRat! Another happy customer. I have a 2005 LLY with a edge box and it ran like a bat out of hell for the first 6 months, and then it started throwing 1093's whenever I used a power setting above stock. We tried everything, cleaning out the fuel tank, lify pump, extra fuel filters with no luck. I followed your procedures and it is back to normal. I added a .036 shim. I was able to get the regulator out without having to disassemble too much of thr truck.. All I had to do was remove what looked like the glow plug controller and loosten the bracket and I was able to get a 18mm box wrench in there. Regulator disassembly was a piece of cake. The job took me all of 30 mins.. Thanks again!

another happy camper.................used one washer....... .037".
hardest part was finding the dang nut and washers.
simple, simple, simple
Mc Rat.........:bow:
I think we all, or lots of us owe Mc Rat.
If it wasn't for him I wouldn't be enjoying my truck right now. Thanks McRat!!

tried it out, can't set a 1093, tried and can't do it, and this is with a single KD pump and pickup. PPE Hot +2.
It's feels so good not to have 1093's!!!!!!!:cool2:

The racers supply house www.mcmaster.com They have almost everything imagianable. They're not cheap but they will have anything you want delivered the next business day..

Mark

05 4800mi mbrp 4'' turbo back Got new mods and made 400mi before 1093s bummer. Looking at Lift pumps when I found thread on relief valve. Do I have to have a Lift pump or can I do the relief valve only? Don't want to spend $$$ if I don"t have to . Never changed fuel filter yet and it throws the 1093 in step 2 constant and in step 1 some times, really do miss step 3.

What chip/tuner are you running? The Edge should not throw any 1093's on level 1,2,3 or 4. I think the only single tune that really fuels enough to throw lots of 1093's is the PPE HOT Xcellerator. When you stack, you definetly need lift pumps and maybe the shim mod. Doing the shim mod may hold you off for a while, but it still doesnt really help the CP3 suck more fuel when you run really HOT (no pun intended) tunes.

---ben

05 4800mi mbrp 4'' turbo back Got new mods and made 400mi before 1093s bummer. Looking at Lift pumps when I found thread on relief valve. Do I have to have a Lift pump or can I do the relief valve only? Don't want to spend $$$ if I don"t have to . Never changed fuel filter yet and it throws the 1093 in step 2 constant and in step 1 some times, really do miss step 3.

I only run my lift pump at the track. I run PPE Hot on max and stack VA on max without pump on and no 1093's after shim mod.

Sorry I left it out Edge juice w/ ***. on step 3. Its sure acts like a 1093. Am I missing something. I'll change the filter and see what happens

'05 Chevy 3500 with 39,000 miles on it. Have been throwing p1093's on occasion with the hypertech even on level 1. I took it off and the p1093's kept coming, so took it to the dealer and no diesel mechanic on duty. Since I use my truck for hot shot hauling, I couldn't afford to be with out it for long, so I decided to try the shim mod. Man you guys are great to have figured out how to do such a simple mod to cure this prob, mine went very well , used a .039 thick shim which is all I had, and problem is solved. I drove it around and really tried to make it throw the code, so far no codes...Thanks again guys for sharing all your valuable info..

I did some research on the injection system from the 2006 and found out the injectors and the pressure relief valve are different from the LLY motor so I don't think that relief valve will work for our LLY motors

the 2005 and 2004 LLY's it will work. Yes, the 2006 LLY's are different so the shim mod may not work but most likely they wont need a shim mod because the max rail pressure is increased from 23,055 PSI to 26,000 PSI.

---ben

Just finished the shim mod........all extremely easy, except re-installing the glow plug module bracket.............what a pain!!! No more 1093's thanks McRat..............Rick p.s. if somebody needs a nut and the shims I'll send them to you. The washers were .5mm in thickness. I used 2. Came out .040 on the money. Had to buy 30 or so min. order from mcmaster car. Only have one nut though. I used a craftsman 6 point 18 mm. flat box in wrench. Also had to use a breaker bar.

Ok so if my fuel pressure regulator pops on my 01 with the van aaken can i just get one of these service centers to send one or do i have to buy the $1000 part from the dealer??

O ya sry to hijack the thread

Not to be a PITA but can someone please post some better pics of the FPRV and exactly where it is please? I think I've got it but this mod has me a little skeered as is, so any reassurance at all will help me.
thanks
jake

P.S. Ive done searches but found no specific pics.

Try this link, has some real good pics: ):h

http://www.pacificp.com/pdf/manuals/ShimKit.pdf

Try this link, has some real good pics: ):h

http://www.pacificp.com/pdf/manuals/ShimKit.pdf

found it and used it a few days ago. thank you though, it is a good pictorial and instruction to go off of. cheers to ppe.

OK so I just want to make sure im getting the right thing... from McMaster Carr...

Here it is...ill use one of these, which would be a .7mm shim...its 8mm OD, 4mm ID. Is this right??

Thanks
ben

OK so I just want to make sure im getting the right thing... from McMaster Carr...

Here it is...ill use one of these, which would be a .7mm shim...its 8mm OD, 4mm ID. Is this right??

Thanks
ben that is what I used and has worked great ever since. Only time I set a 1093 is when I'm really low on fuel and gun it. Good luck. Oh and by the way, it's not as hard as some make it out to be, took me no more than 10 minutes.

alright just wanted to make sure ONE of those washers form McMaster carr would be sufficent. Works out to .7mm

I shimmed mine to .37 mm, but i would suggest going a little larger since your already gonna be in there.

now I'm really wishin I would have done so myself, now it's being a PITA to get broke loose.

i am running the banks six gun and i am throwing 1093 on level 2 and stock. it wasnt until a few weeks ago that i threw a 1093 when i ran down the 1/4 and that was in level 5, now its doing at with no added power. i need some advice, i am still new to the diesel world.

just finished the shim mod and thought i would give my two cents on how it went and a few tips.

first, i rounded the bolt right off the bat. i had to wedge a wrench between the 18mm wrench and where the glow plug box bolts to the head to keep pressure on the wrench to keep it from slipping off again. then had a buddy pull on the 18mm wrench with another wrench on it for leverage to break it loose. this was the only thing i found that worked after the bolt has been rounded off.

second, i couldn't find a 20x1.5 nut anywhere. i took a 19mm wrench and ground it down so it fit between the head of the bolt and the threads. there is only about an eight inch where there is no threads. put the valve in the vise hanging out the side so i could slide the wrench on it and tap with a hammer, popped off on the first hit. if anybody is as confused about that as i am after typing it let me know and i will post a pic, i am shimming my dad's 05 sometime in the near future.

so far so good with the mod, i shimmed to .045 because my valve seemed to be unusually week, as it would pop often with only a mild tune.

PPE dealers have a kit with 3 washers and a nut. Might save some time searching at the local hardware store.:)