Ok sorry everyone but I need some advice, and most of all, i just need to:rant: !!!! So im doing my first oil change on my truck (4000 miles, I know I should have done it earlier:o: ...) First went to NAPA to get filter a while back and special ordered a filter wrench for the huge filter. Went back the other day, and they had sold it:mad: . OK so I order another one, go back today (probly 4 days after i ordered it) and they Censored sold it again!!! Then I asked them if they sold Fumoto valves and the guy looked at me like I had just flown in from another planet.:rolleyes: Oh well (NAPA = Never Any Parts Available)... So I say oh well ill punch a screw driver thru it. Get home, drain the black oil, get half of it in the collection container, other half spills onto my front skid plate and then all over the driveway.:mad: Oh here comes the fun part...I CANT GET THE FRIGGIN' OIL FILTER OFF!!!! Some wingnut at DMAX LTD. torqued it to, I swear, something along the lines of 200 ft. lbs. So as a 20 minute job turns into (literally) a 4 hour job of screaming and yelling at the thing, drilling a half inch hole thru it to stick a metal rod thru it (bent two screwdrivers trying to pry it off so had to use something thicker), and i still cant get it off!!! I finally said to myself "back away and let it be...before you do something really stupid like crack off the oil filter "thread stem". Im stuck...I feel pretty stupid...restored an old VW Beetle, rebuilt tractor engines, rebuilt my go-cart engine, yet I cant change the stinkin oil on my truck!! Can anyone please :help: !?? I need my truck for work tomorrow!

thanks--- Ben

You might try one of the rubber strap wrenchs.
Sears, WalMart, Lowes, Home depot.
That is what I had to use.

no help here but i was in the same situation. i found a oil filter wrench at Kmart that fit, had to ride my bicycle down there. felt like a real loser. already had the oil drained.

this was almost as bad as when i fried my computer with a hypertech last year and had to ride the same bike to work for 3 days. i got a lot crap over that at work.

the oil filter wrench shouldnt be that hard to find. the fuel filter on the other hand is huge. got mine from Eric at http://www.gmdieseltech.com/

I have noticed that when engines come new the oil filters are usually incredibly tight. Guess they don't want any issues.

I too have shredded a few. Jabbing a screwdriver through is a gamble, sometimes you win, sometimes you lose, big time. Especially with coolant filters which tend to rust up if not changed regularly.

Anyway my favorite tool for removing filters (even ones put on with my own hands) is a big pair of channel locks. I have one at work and one at home and it works for even the big Cummins and Detroit filters though sometimes you have to crunch those a little bit to get the handles close enough to get a good squeeze on them:D Failing that, I have also gotten them off by using the corner/edge of a cold chisel and tapping into the side of the filter where the base plate is to turn it, this almost always works but is usually very time consuming and frustrating.

Birken

Seems just about everyone has trouble getting the factory filters off.

They seem to be welded on.

If all else fails get a big set of chanell locks and just crush the filter with them to get a good grip and twist the filter off with the chanell locks.


I know what you mean about the oil draining and the skid plate as the same thing happened to me :lol: After the intial stream of oil came out and made the pan the rest filled the skid palte and leaked all over the floor everywhere.

I took the skid plate off that day and haven't put it back on since. Although I could now I guess since I have installed a oil drain nipple.

Don't let the oil filter push you around just twist that puppy off :exactly:

DD

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EDIT: after reading Birken's post: Hmmmm Birken Vogt seems us genious minds think alike lol

If my original filter had been on any tighter, it would still be there. It was ALL I could do to get that ***** off. I use a metal strap wrench for my filters, and they have never failed me or slipped on the filter. I try not to use anything that might puncture the filter, because I know my luck in situations you can't back out of.

Thanks to everyone for your help and replies...just went to Walmart...had to fly over in my dad's Tahoe (wow is it different than driving my HD!! Steering is much lighter and looser and the brakes probably have the worst pedal feel ever)...didnt make it in time though. Ill just have to go in early tomorrow and try not to be too late for work! Seems like the metal strap wrench is the way to go...beleive me Thats what I would have grabbed...just didnt have one big enough! I also realized after my frustration settled down that drilling thru the filter was probably the dumbest thing ever. I dont want to think about what would happen if I drilled thru the center "stem" that comes out of the engine block!!!

thanks again everyone--- Ben

After removing the original factory overtightned one, the filters you replace it with should not be that tight.

After gasket touches metal another 3/4 to 1 turn is good enough, about as tight as you can make it by hand. A simple oil filter wrench should be able to remove it next time.

Also if you can't find a fumoto you can try one of these:

http://www.nospillsystems.com/

I have one on the pickup and have had one on my big truck for about 8 years now with no problems and they don't stick out from the pan much. Much less than the Fumoto anyway.
There like the Fram sure drains but more heavy duty and better built.

DD

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I dont want to think about what would happen if I drilled thru the center "stem" that comes out of the engine block!!!


Thats alright the stem is changeable. ):h

Thats alright the stem is changeable. ):h

ohhhh boy that lifts a huge weight off my shoulders!!!:thumb: I thought I was not going to sleep tonight becase id be having nightmares about finally getting the oil filter off and seeing a mangled thread stem!!! Ill order one of those quick drain valves for sure...ill jsut have to change the oil again in a couple weeks when I put the valve in. Oh well these trucks are so awesome they deserve new oil any day!:D

---Ben

Its too late now but that's why I always have the first change done at the dealer and ask them not to over torque the new filter on when they put it one.

I decided those adapters that fit on the bottom of a filter were crap, because different filters had different indentations.

I decided that I wanted a wrench that I could use for getting my fuel filter off, Allison filter and engine oil filter.

I ended up getting a nylon strap oil filter wrench.

I put a 12" ratchet extension on it and it works perfect every time. I get ample leverage by using my ratchet and I dont have to worry about lack of space up under the engine for getting good leverage.

I bought mine at wal-mart, but it looks like this.

http://www.arizonatools.com/catalog/detail/14687/

I bought the fumoto quick valvle for the oil pan, works great. No more oil in the skid plate!

I think the issue isn't so much how tight they put it on but that they put it on dry. I always put a coat of oil on the seal before installing mine and never have this problem. For those of us with new trucks it might be wise to see if we can loosen them before they have been heat cycled too many times.

Ahh yeah that would be a problem, good point...I have always had the habit of running an oily finger around the seal, and never had a problem. C'mon GM is it that hard to throw some oil around the seal??

Ben, don't feel bad. On the first oil change on a Ford 7.3 all went well until I tightened the filter. Owners manual had something like 2-1/2 turns (filter said 3/4-1) after gasket contacts base. It takes a hell of lot of force to get it 2-1/2 turns, but I managed with a strap type oil filter wrench. So I start the truck and check for leaks, wow what a leak, wind was blowing and it spewed the undercarriage as well as the driveway. I think I bought two more oil filter wrenches (a chain style that I still use) to get the thing off. That 20 minute job, 5 hours, two filters, three wrenches and couple of extra quarts of oil.

Thanks, at least its not me going crazy with this filter...it actually WAS put on too tight by some wingnut at the factory. BTW Utundra..check your PM's..I sent you one on the nav unit.

--Ben

I used a strap wrench halfway up the filter and another wrench on the bottom of the filter for my first change.

One of the few decent things I have picked up over the years from Harbor Freight (most of their stuff, well, you get what you pay for!) was an filter pliars. Like a big channel locks, but the jaws are rounded for fitting around filters. IIRC, it places pressure on like four to six different points on the filter. Just like a channel locks, it adjusts for different filter diameters. It wasn't very expensive either. Has never failed me yet. I have even used it to remove stubborn sprinkler heads, to keep from digging a hole around the head. Might surf their web site so you could be ready for a futre challenge?

I was lucky (?) and received my first oil chage free at the dealer. The second change I did. No problem getting the filter off, but some gorilla must have put the oil plug in with an impact wrenchCensored . I know why I do the changes my self.

One of the few decent things I have picked up over the years from Harbor Freight (most of their stuff, well, you get what you pay for!) was an filter pliars. Like a big channel locks, but the jaws are rounded for fitting around filters. IIRC, it places pressure on like four to six different points on the filter. Just like a channel locks, it adjusts for different filter diameters. It wasn't very expensive either. Has never failed me yet. I have even used it to remove stubborn sprinkler heads, to keep from digging a hole around the head. Might surf their web site so you could be ready for a futre challenge?

Ditto that. Bought a oil filter pliers after having broke two strap wrenches on the first oil change on my boat. Best filter remover I have ever used hands down.

Just a quick response to the filter & oil mess. The 2" nylon webbed type that wraps around a 1/2' square tube that you stick on your 1/2" ratched is going to work on all sizes of filters. from the tiny one on the transmission up to the huge Mega filter that John Kennedy sells. One size fits all, and regardless of the tightness of the filter, even if you start crushing the can, the harder you try to unscrew, the tighter the web is gripping the can.

I only made one oil mess when pulling the plug on the pan. after the initial gush of oil comes out the oil starts to drip on the skid plate. The skid plate is aluminum, so I yanked that sucker off and cut back the plate with my trusty but dusty saber saw. took about 10 minutes start to finish to cutt off about 1.5 - 2" off the corner of the plate and now there's never a mess (unless I drop the plug in the catch bucket!). I like this so much I did it to my dad's new Dmax before he ever got it delivered to his house. Fumoto looks like a good workaround, but this was free!

I think the issue isn't so much how tight they put it on but that they put it on dry. I always put a coat of oil on the seal before installing mine and never have this problem. For those of us with new trucks it might be wise to see if we can loosen them before they have been heat cycled too many times.

:exactly:

Make sure when you put the new one on that you coat the surface of the filter gasket lightly with fresh clean oil. Tighten it down by hand 3/4 to one full turn after the gasket first makes contact and thats that. You will always be able to remove it by hand using this method.

Also it is rare, in 20 years I have only seen it happen twice, but always check that the filter gasket came off with the old filter, especially in the case of a filter that was an MF to get off. If you don't notice and the old gasket stays on the engine you will develop one helluva oil leak. This you may not discover until a week or more down the line.

.

Just a quick response to the filter & oil mess. The 2" nylon webbed type that wraps around a 1/2' square tube that you stick on your 1/2" ratched is going to work on all sizes of filters. from the tiny one on the transmission up to the huge Mega filter that John Kennedy sells. One size fits all, and regardless of the tightness of the filter, even if you start crushing the can, the harder you try to unscrew, the tighter the web is gripping the can.

I only made one oil mess when pulling the plug on the pan. after the initial gush of oil comes out the oil starts to drip on the skid plate. The skid plate is aluminum, so I yanked that sucker off and cut back the plate with my trusty but dusty saber saw. took about 10 minutes start to finish to cutt off about 1.5 - 2" off the corner of the plate and now there's never a mess (unless I drop the plug in the catch bucket!). I like this so much I did it to my dad's new Dmax before he ever got it delivered to his house. Fumoto looks like a good workaround, but this was free!


Yeah, that @#% &#!?# skidplate edge!!!!!! It was responsible for ALL the mess in my changes!

Great post, thanks! :ro)

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WELL finally got that sucker off!! I just went to walmart and bought every single type of oil filter wrench they had haha. Got it off, filled up with some trusty Rotella T and fired her up to check for leaks. WOW did my oil pressure increase when I switched to Rotella. Its now easilly 60 PSI at idle and goes to 80 PSI or so at 3000 RPM. Im assuming this is fine...I dont think such a high oil pressure would do anything but lube everything really well!

thanks again for the advice on eveyrrything!
---Ben

Hot pressure at 750RPM should be 25-30PSI.

Changed mine for the first time last week. I broke my oil filter wrench trying to get the filter off! The only thing that saved me was a large pair of channel locks. I wonder if the fuel filter is going to be the same way?

Changed mine for the first time last week. I broke my oil filter wrench trying to get the filter off! The only thing that saved me was a large pair of channel locks. I wonder if the fuel filter is going to be the same way?


I don't remember the fuel filter being so tough but I know the same gorilla SOB that installed the oil filter also must have installed my allison spin on.

It seems he used the same industrial strength impact wrench to put both of them on after he broke his 4 foot cheater pipe on his strap wrench.

Sometimes I wonder if they aren't laughing at the nice suprises they leave for us......
.

Hot pressure at 750RPM should be 25-30PSI.

Why do you suppose GM puts a 120 psi gauge on the truck. Seems like half of the gauge is a waste.

As several have said, lack of lubrication causes spin on filters to stick. I have taken some off of aircraft engines that have been on so tight that i have actually ripped the can off of the base plate. :eek: Champion aircraft oil filters state that the preferred lubricant for the seal is Dow $ silicone compound. If it is not available, then use clean engine oil. I can tell what was used when I remove the filter. The Dow 4 treated seal is MUCH easier to remove than the ones lubed with oil. :p: So I now use the Dow 4 on all my personal vehicles. Just use enough to give the seal a "wet" look. That is all that is required.
The Dow 4 is available from aircraft supply houses like Aviall, Aerospace Products International and Aircraft Spruce & Specialty. Aircraft Spruce is probably the easiest to work with. All of these outfits can be found on the net.
The Dow 4 is a little pricey, but a tube will last a long time. My tube at home has lasted me 7 years, three vehicles at least 4 or more changes per year. The tube is less than 1/3 gone.

As far as the skid plate, I cut and fold a piece of cardboard & put it under the oil drain and another under the filter. That way no oil gets on the skid plate. :)

Britt