Can someone please explain how a boost fooler works for a LLY Duramax and where I can get one?

Thanks

You have a VVT........no wastegate........can't use a boost fooler on your truck

VVT = Variable Vain Turbo........

Actually I have a 16cm non wastegated housing on my HX40:)

I had a customer call me for a boost fooler and could find no info on it.. Probably because they don't exist:D

There is a way to increase boost if put a bleed in the boost sensor source.The stock sensor is a pain to get to so I leave that one there and drill and tap the pressure elbow going into the engine 1/8 pipe and install 1/4 hose barb and new sensor on 4-5 inches of hose.Unplug the original sensor with a long screwdriver and plug into new sensor.Cut the hose about 1-2 inches from the sensor and install a vacuum "T" and just vent as a bleed. Start with small leak and increase till about 30 psi. DON'T Get stupid and overspeed the turbo, Only do with gauges. If you go to big you will set a MAF code. Use at your own risk I have several with great results. Tim

Do you have any pictures of this-- do you have the part# of the sensor??

I will try to get pictures up yet this week. Tim

I just finished doing this mod. My boost doesn't seem to be much higher on a sustained wot run, but I now see spikes of 25-26 psi on wot shifts.
This is measured with an Autometer Boost gauge mounted in a SD manifold. My boost fooler is tapped in to the cast aluminum intake tube that goes straight in to the intake manifold. I have a radiator petcock as bleed valve. Opening the petcock incrementally shows me no more boost on the gauge, but I was able to throw a P0101 (MAF signal out of range).
My questions:
1) Shouldn't I see more boost on my gauge as I bleed more air?
2) What do I use as an endpoint? It didn't throw the MAF code until I could feel bleed air out of the petcock at idle. I don't want to overspeed the turbo.
3) My predator shows zero boost when attached to the stock sensor or the "fooled" sensor. Is this normal? If the ECM "sees" no boost from the sensor, there will be codes thrown. I have none of those.

Thanks,
Mike

The Predator does not read boost correctly. Go only by a hard gauge. Do not use an Egde Attitude either. If you really need to know what boost is being reported to the PCM, use a Tech II, but keep in mind it won't read over 3 bar, regardless of your actual boost.

You need to be running the engine hard to get max boost. WOT in 4th is good. Uphill is better.

There needs to be a restriction between the sensor and the manifold to create the pressure differential.

They are talking about bleeding off the air going to the sensor. Relocate the sensor remotely, and connect it with a small tube going to the manifold. Now put a T in the line feeding the sensor, and put a valve on the T. As you open the valve, the sensor sees less and less pressure.

It would be nice to do it electrically instead with a rheostat or such.

It would be nice to do it electrically instead with a rheostat or such.

That is probably my next project.

I've got to leave for the track now. Hopefully this trip won't be as expensive as the last:D .

Does anyone have any pictures of this? Where do we get a new boost sensor? Part #? Cost?

Thanks

They look like this and are not a one to one replacement. You have to do a bit of matching. This sensor was about $30.

Looks like fun ;)

Fingers, I have some squirrels close by that have built duplicates of that, for $15 I will climb up there and fetch 'em for you, instantly saving you 50% on the cost. :) Seriously though, good work you are doing, how far off are you from production?

:grd:

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