Hey all,
So I just upgraded from my old '85 suburban to a 95 K2500. This thing looks and drives really nice and has a reman engine with just over 9k on it. A couple questions. First is the A/C line going to the rear a/c. Does anybody know where I might find one of these? I've tried the local stores as well as Rock Auto and LMC Truck and JC Whitney with no luck. Problem is the pipe on it was actually rubbing on the frame and ended wearing a hole in the aluminum piping.
Second problem is the ABS. It has a light on. The light is off until I start to move then it immediately comes on. I'm thinking probably a sensor. Do these have a sensor in the differential?
Thanks,
Mike

For the ABS light, yes there is a sensor on the wheel behind the bearing. The connectors are there behind the rubber flap on the fender well. There is a way to read the ABS code with paper clip. I posted it a while back so you can search it.

Another way is to disconnect that connector, put ohm-meter on the connector to the wheel. Measure it, it should be between 1000 to 3000 ohm. If it is 0, you have found the culprit. This is assuming the wheel sensor is bad.

If nothing else maybe you can get the a/c line repaired. I the welders at work use silver solder at work alot but I can't remember if we use it on aluminum or not.

the ac line you are looking for, have you tried GM? If you really cant find one I can weld it at work (maby my dad will weld it hes got alot more experance with the thinwall stuff) but thats a option a weld shop if your not in my area. Dont know where your at but let me know if I can help.

Justin

Talked to a welder friend yesterday and got the pipe taken care of. It was really a tiny crack to where it would actually hold freon for a little while so it was a quick little fix. Got the a/c running cold last night. I haven't checked into the wheel sensors yet, but I will.
Another question. I was checking on my trailer lights and none of them seem to be functioning. They're plugged into the regular plug that your supposed to use, but nothing. I even tried just checking the plug itself for power from each individual pin on each side and nothing. Also I noticed one side was actually unplugged from the connector when I got the Suburban. One other thing I noticed is that none of this affected the regular lights at all. Is this normal? Are they on separate fuses? I couldn't find any specific trailer fuses in the fuse box. Is there a connector further up somewhere I should check?
Thanks,
Mike

Figured out the trailer wiring problem. There are two sets of connectors back there by the hitch that have the same connectors and for some reason whoever had this thing previously connected the wrong two together. This left the wrong two connected to the trailer wire, but allowed the rear lights to work. Easy fix just had to examine what was around for a minute. I'm gonna try pulling codes for the abs and see if I can come up with anything. Also I want to get into fixing the cruise control. The guy said it worked for him up till last week, but will it actually work when the abs light is on? He claimed the abs light has been on since he got it.
One other question. I noticed a check engine light coming on and off while driving before the suburban completely warms up. This seems to happen only at about half throttle. If I gun it or let off the light goes away and once it's completely warmed up no more light. I haven't noticed any running problems just the light.
Thanks,
Mike

One other question. I noticed a check engine light coming on and off while driving before the suburban completely warms up. This seems to happen only at about half throttle. If I gun it or let off the light goes away and once it's completely warmed up no more light. I haven't noticed any running problems just the light.
Thanks,
Mike

This one is usually Turbo Wastegate solenoid fault = 78. There is a leak on the vacuum line or the solenoid is bad or vac pump is bad. Since it does not affect performance, my guess is the solenoid is bad or vac leak.

Cool. I'll definitely check the vacuum. I've got a boost gauge and nothing seems to be boosting too high on it. I did go ahead and pull codes here they are:
36= missing rear speed signal - I'm assuming I need to check that sensor and possibly the wiring.
68 = Locked Motor Circuit or Shorted Motor Circuit - Am I going to need a new hydraulic control unit?
39= TCC Brake Switch stuck " OFF" - Torque converter problems? Or is there a serviceable part? Or should I check the wiring?

Thanks,
Mike

Actually disregard on the code 39. I thought that was torque converter brake switch ( as in lock up or something), but it's for the cruise. That would make complete sense why the cruise isn't working. Also right on with the vacuum to the wastegate. I just checked the line and the supply line coming from the vacuum pump was loose and the solenoid itself wasn't secured at all so it was basically bouncing around on the engine. Good stuff. Anyway I'd still like any thoughts on the ABS. I just got this car Tuesday and am basically trying to learn all the systems so I can make everything work and really take care of it. I have auto experience, but this is my first time with one of these trucks so all the input definitely helps out.
Thanks,
Mike

Here is thread on how to read abs code:

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25083

Okay a couple more things. The code is for the rear sensor. So I'm assuming that means the vss in the transmission? Does anybody have a part # for that? Also does anybody have a part # for the TCC switch?
Thanks,
Mike