I have a major "CLUNK" when I turn left. It comes from the right wheel. Stock suspension, except the previous owner "turned up the torsion bar some" whatever that means. (I'm new at this)

Anyway, some friends told me to jack it up and try to rock the tire to see if the ball joint was bad. When I did that the tire/wheel was solid, however when I turn the wheel I hear grinding/clunking. The left side is quiet when I turn the wheel.

So whats the problem?

Thanks guys,

J

could it just be brake drag that your hearing?(maybe the caliper needs to be greased) otherwise wheel bearing or C/V shaft would be my guess on the grinding..... but I'd say the grinding and the clunk are two different problems... the clunk could maybe be in the steering components if you can't find any slop in the ball joint to... hard to say.
did you jack it up via the frame or via the lower a-arm? the difference in the suspension angle from the jacking position could possibly alter the diagnosis as well

Did it from the frame. So the control arm is fully down. Grinding's probably the wrong word. It is intermittent and I think its the same thing that's making the clunk when I turn.

Sounds like wheel bearings/hubs are out.

could be a worn idler arm, I had the same problem

If you are trying to check the ballJoints you need to Jack the truck up from the lower control arm

Ok, jacked up from the control arm. There is a *little* tiny bit of play when I rock the wheel. Like maybe a 1/2 cm and it seems to be on the top side. Anyway I really think the clunk is coming from the CV. There also seems to be a tear in the boot which might be the culprit. I've got the wheel off. Anyone know the socket size for that hub nut?

FYI, its a 36mm nut. Had to use a breaker bar to get it off- with helper pressing down the brake.

So now begins the removal of the old CV axle. Chilton's says I need a 'puller'. Hopefully Advance will let me borrow one.

Some Pics.

Should be a pretty simple job I would just hammer the old axle out of the hub if you are replacing it. You shouldn't really need a puller

So just beat on the bolt- forcing it in toward the engine? I'm having a hard time visualizing....

If the axle is ready to come out I'd just hammer the on the end of the stub shaft. I've never had any problems changing axles on these things.

You mean beat right here, right?

Yeah but ur gonna have to pop off the upper balljoint and the swaybar endlink to get it out

sway bar end link? that just connects to the lower control arm, whats that got to do with it?

Usually the axle won't fit between the endlink and the shock

gotcha, thanks.

I took the shock off instead of the end link, though I'm not sure if it was necessary. That axle was a BEAR to get off. First I took off the flange bolts (had to buy a bigger impact wrench for that job). Then I was able to force it out the bottom between the diff and the lower control arm. I had to beat out the stub first, then it was finally able to go out toward the middle of the truck.

Now I have to put the new one in. I sure hope I don't have to take off the sway bar end link. I literally cannot see how I would do that. I took out that access plug in the bottom of the control arm and the bolt/nut seems to be off to the side where a socket won't reach. totally confused about that one. Also looks like I have to move over the anti lock brake sensor to the new cv axle. Any idea how to do that?

thanks. i'm getiin this thing on the road before August. DEFINITELY.

i've removed my cv's with everything still in place, just takes a bit of wiggling to get it out... the lift might make it easier to do though

Can yall believe I'm still working on this thing? This summer has been BRUTAL. Anyway, I ended up just exchanging the new CV joint for one that already had the ABS ring on it. Actually got some money back, weirdly.

Jobs completed since last post:
-unsuccessfully tried to remove upper ball joint to help reinstall cv joint.
-instead removed lower ball joint (bolts) and got cv joint in.
-replaced outer tie rod end (had to hacksaw off the old one- am i redneck or what?)
-reinstalled lower ball joint
-reinstalled shock absorber (after wire brushing the rust off those bolts that were left in the rain)

still left to do:
-reinstall/bleed brake line
-torque flange bolts
-have a shop replace upper ball joint, grease tie rod end, and give me an alignment

sheesh.

I would do the uppers myself if i were you. Pretty simple after you cut the digits off. I usually use a bad ass air hammer to cut them off

there you go with vernacular again. Digits? You mean the rivets? Seems like they would need to be drilled out. I've got access to an air hammer, but where do you put it?

Yes I ment rivets. The air hammer is probably gonna have to be a name brand long barrel like snap on or matco to cut them off. Just put a chisel in it and cut the heads off then punch them out. If you don't have an air hammer with enough power you'll have to drill them out. Just bolt the new ones in. I've done over a hundred rivited upper ball joints so they're easy to me. Once you finish the first one the other side should be cake.

I'll give that a shot at the hobby shop on base. Got it back on the road today. Raise your hand if you've ever driven with your alignment so bad off you actually can hear the tires squeal at about 20 mph. I've still got some work to do :(.

i've aligned with a measuring tape many times... right now i'm driving on an eyeball alignment lol

snapped a tie rod on a beach, replaced it, got a friend to stand 20' back and tell me when they looked to be in line with eachother :)

man, those rivets are cut off now, AND i've drilled out to about 1/4" bit. AND they still won't budge. WHYYYYYYYY. That plate that holds on to the bottom of the control arm is almost fused to that thing.

try the air hammer again.
J

ok, 12th times a charm. now to put in the fresh new upper ball joint. OOHH of course, they gave me the wrong one. back to 'advance'...

Gotta love 5 dollar an hour advance auto employees