Hi all

First of all Great Site

I'm looking on purchasing 98 1500 E/C 4x4 6.5 TD, truck has some issues and owner is willing to unload truck at very very god price.
Before I make the decision I will like to get some answers.
Truck started ok and runs ok but the clank clank noise seems to be louder than on my friend 6.5 TD that I had a chance to drive few times.
There is lots of white smoke blowing form the exhaust when idling and accelerating. On hard acceleration ( pedal to the metal) I can see some black smoke but not much and I take that as normal behavior.
First I thought that this is coolant but reservoir was full (forgot to check for bubbles) and there was no moist in the exhaust pipe, plus that way more smoke than I ever seen so I started looking for some answers. After spending half a night going thru the archives it looks like the truck may need a set of new injectors and maybe new IP.
What would the experts say on that ?
Truck has 239kms (149k miles) and is equipped with FSD cooler.

I can tackle most stuff by my self if I get right pointers.
There are some small leaks, transmission pan gasket has a leak, front diff driveshaft is leaking, oil around oil filter ( cooler lines ?) and oil on turbo housing ( supply or return line liking ?). Needs new rear shocks and breaks are somewhat week.

Thanks for help in advance
Chris

How long did it put out white smoke? If it continued to put out white smoke after it was fully warm it might be weak injectors or a glowplug tip that is gone but make sure there's no pressure building on the radiator hose or greasy look to the coolant.

Take your FSD cooler off your intake manifold and remote mount it out in front of the radiator or in the bumper as long as it's out of the engine bay and accessable incase of a roadside change (carry a spare FSD?).

The front driveshafts don't leak but the IFS thrid member does.

Yep it did smoke after about 10 minutes of driving, i will go back tommorow and check the coolant and pressure,

I ment the seal on input driveshaft to front diff

depends on how good the very very good price is but it sure sounds like a good deal. How close are you to some of our northern members?? TDG, or CR both come to mind or someone else might be close and willing to look it over for you so you can fill better about it.

depends on how good the very very good price is but it sure sounds like a good deal. How close are you to some of our northern members?? TDG, or CR both come to mind or someone else might be close and willing to look it over for you so you can fill better about it.

Half the price of the lower priced 6.5 in paper :) Truck belongs to my freind who also dont have the use for it anymore.

CR is about 2 hours drive and TDG is like 3 days drive :mad:

I dont have a problem pulling the heads, instaling new headgasket and even getting the heads rebuilt, but i have a feeling thats not it. But will have a look at the coolant tommorow.

Some or all of the smoke issues could be associated with EGR, easily disabled. '98 is more prone to cracked blocks than pre-'97 and post-'00, so if your looking for the long haul cost factor a rebuit engine.

Forgot to mention that CEL (check engine light) is on

Some or all of the smoke issues could be associated with EGR, easily disabled.

Ah Ah Ah, not so fast, this is a '98 model with the 'anti-EGR-cheating-system' aka Mass Airflow Sensor. IF you disable the EGR you have to reflash the computer or you will get continuous SES light.

If it smoked for 10 minutes, you can pretty much say its got pump problems.

Also, while your checking the coolant stuff out, check to see if the supply pump is working, and take the fuel filter out and see what it looks like.

Can you find a garage somewhere that can scan it for you? I don't know if Canadian Tire does that or not, but they do sell a pretty cheap OBDII code reader.

Where there's a will there's a way. The feedback system from the EGR to the MAF or viseaversa cannot be complicated to fool.

Possibly reduce the voltage signal from the MAF with resistors? I'm not exactly sure how the MAF works but if it's like the MAP it has a chance.

I'd have to do some reading on MAF sensors too. Maybe there is a way to cheat it.

I don't have one to test. I just saw an S engine's lower plenum on the inside for the first time last week.

Yep it did smoke after about 10 minutes of driving, i will go back tommorow and check the coolant and pressure,

I ment the seal on input driveshaft to front diff

That might be the pinion seal. It's simple enough to change.

Hi there

So today i went back to look at the truck.

It took quiet long to start the truck , like a minute or so with the help of starter and acceleretor it slowly fierd up.

1. So we have hard starting now.

Then the truck run normally,

No bubbles in coolant and the hose didnt get pressurised.

2. Hopefully no leaks

Truck run ok and didn't blow any smoke but it was only idling and didnt get relly warm and that's when it starts to smoke or when its driven, when hot it will blow wihite smoke even when idling.

I also pulled the booth from the turbo and seems like the shaft has a lot of play but then again in my race car i have newer, and very little turbocharger that blows 15 PSI chipped so im use to diffrent stuff and whats bad thing on race car it maybe ok on big diesel turbo.
But i put that on list thing to do in future

Now i can join the club of GM diesel owners. I'm gonna spend some more time here since i never own a diesel before and got to learn new things.

Few questions
- What is good shop manual for 98 6.5 TD ?

- Will this OBDII scanner work ?(my freind has one)
http://www.canadiantire.ca/assortments/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=84552444321 0753&FOLDER%3C%3EbrowsePath=2534374303517494&FOLDER%3C%3EbrowsePath=2534374303517520&FOLDER%3C%3EbrowsePath=1408474396669497&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=1408474396669497&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=1408474396670271&bmUID=1121143278944 (what a long addres)
- How much dose it usaly cost to rebuilt IP ? (to canadian users)

- Injectors @ Parts Source are $90 each are those any good , what about dealer or other sources ?

This is it

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v367/PrezeS_PL/gti141.jpg

98 E/C 4x4, *maybe* a 2500 (HD at that?) Maybe doesn't have EGR. Just wondering out loud. Need some code numbers, we are all shootin' in the dark.

I get the codes really soon

That's an LD all the way, that means EGR stuff.

white smoke could be timing issue as well. I have seen many high milage engine have worn timing chains or a broken crank key....

Nice truck! You'll like it, alot of stuff you do to it to make even better. I know since 215,000 later on my 94' and i'm just now finding out about all the stuff you can do to the 6.5TD. If nothing else you'll love this site, everyone is way more than helpful when it comes to 6.5TD. I guess you all ready know by all the replies you got so far. BTW you need more mods so your sig looks better LOL.

I was really busy this last two weeks so didn't have time to look at the truck. Today we scan the codes and got P0307 - Cylinder 7 Misfire Detected.
Rough idle
white smoke from tailpipe
when cold - very hard to start
when warm - sometimes starts ok, sometimes needs few seconds of cranking
knocking and shaking somewhere below 2000 rpm (maybe 1600 and up - don't remember)

I hope this will help.

You may want to check out your glow plugs. (http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39182)

The other thing that you could do is swap injectors out of clyinder 7 with another clyinder and see if the code moves.

I would start with the injector if the truck still smokes when hot and knocks. #7 is an easy one, driver's side closest to the firewall. I suggest pulling it and having it tested to see if the nozzle is hung open, but if they don't find a serious problem with the injector than a compression test on that hole would be in order. So hope the injector is the problem.

when cold - very hard to start
when warm - sometimes starts ok, sometimes needs few seconds of cranking


that should be when engine cold and when engine warm, not cold and warm wheather. Sorry

Today I have replaced injector #7 and glow plug, truck started a lot better. CEL went off - got me pretty excited. After short drive truck started to smoke again and pressure drop a lot at idle.
I let it rest (cool off) when I did some searching around on this site. After truck cool down I took this pictures of turbo and intake booth. Looks like we need rebuilt, it has a lot of side to side shaft play. I cleaned it and started the truck, let it warm up, took this videos. Now it throw the CEL again but since I don't have scanner I have to wait till tomorrow to get it checked.

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=32OHPSJK

I'll let the truck cool down now and will go back to check the amount of oil in the turbo and the booth.

We pulled the codes today - P0307 - Cylinder 7 Misfire Detected
7 - thats the one with new injector

I was looking for compresion tester whole day, mine only gose to 300 psi (prabobly won't need more than that :( ) but i can't find any other adaptors.
Just got a hint on my local racing forum about one up to 1000 psi for diesel motors. Will go there toomorow to pick it up - $98. Napa can special order one for $130 - one time use.

I got a feeling that I'll need this kit

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=33620&item=7989331818

Anybody has any experiance with this kit or vendor ?
This only a 1500 and it's going drive me and some paints around as daily driver. 4 to 5 times a year tow my 2200 lbs (i hope to loos some weight till the end of the summer) race car on flat bed trailer to BC events.
It will have rather easy life and i'm not looking on modyfing it since i have a go fast money pit already.

I got tester today, pulled the glow plugs out, half the tip on one #4 was MIA :( is it now a part of the piston or it found new home inside the compressor ?
#1 400 #3 400 #5 jumping to 200 and back to 0 #7 bearly anything - valve in tester went bad culd blow the air both ways, good thing tester come with two spare valves, should come with that little tool to changem too, i could not find one in garage Censored and it was too late to go buy it (after 10pm)

I try it toomorow morning, can i check it on cold engine or i have to put back the glows and warm it up ?

One more thing, when cold it's very hard to start and warm started with 4 glows out, I did shout it right off and pulled more glows.

Last time i lost a tip off the a glow plug i blew up........... not saying that was the cause as i don't know for sure yet why it went boom.....still waiting to find that out.

C.R. how old was your plug ?
I dont know about maine since I got it recently but that side with broken plug seems to be ok.

Also only plug from #7 was wet, the one missfiring - im sure ther is lower compression in that wan since the tester did'n even jump like on #5

Anybody wants to comment on that kit from diesel direct ?

Also how dose $490 CAD to rebuilt G8 sounds ?
My turbo is still boosting, don't know how much but still runs and leaks like crazy.

Even if you have side play in the turbo - that's still a lot of oil "before the turbo" I think the source of the oil is coming out of the CDR. Info about CDR function is found here (http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11637). - (tuna can pic (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6936&d=1122611217)).

Take your oil fill cap off while running - do you have a bunch of air blowing out? That may the source of your oil. And and indicator of your white smoke issue.

its been very busy summer. today I had a chance to test # 7 - 285 psi - it gets there almost on the first stroke and it doesn't build up any more after like 3rd puff.

Any recommendation where to start, head or oil pan first ? Anything that I should be aware of when digging into the diesel for the first time or American V8 for that matter, I had few import OHC, DOHC apart in past.

Have to go now replace driveshaft on my little race car before tomorrows fun runs.