I am about to start a new project with my 6.5 and I need the intake manifold from the humvee with snorkle. It is 3 seperate pieces. left bank, right bank and crossover. Or any suggestions on making an intake with two seperate pleniums.
Thanks,

There are Hummer intake parts on ebay right now. I'm not positive but I heard that Hummers and vans had different heads that had a unique mounting angle for the intake parts. Hope this helps.

I'm pretty sure they're exactly the same motor, heads manifolds everything, I've seen/worked on tons of vans and one hummer and the sure look identical.

I thought the turbo was mounted in the rear of the engine on vans and Hummmers, about where the rest of our fuel filters are, with different intake/exhaust manifolds and turbo. Don't know for sure just seen the parts on Ebay.

The turbo on the GM vans and Hummer are in the middle back behind the intake.

I heard that Hummers and vans had different heads
I think maybe I misread you, I though you were saying hummer and van engines were different from eachother.

They are the same, split manifold, rear turbo in the valley.

Does anyone have a picture of the van intake manifold?
Thanks

I had a few but this is all I find now.

Thanks, Qm. That is exactly what I am looking for. If anyone has the two banks of Intake manifold for sale, I would be interested, or if you know where I might find them. Thanks,

Does anyone know the difference between vin y and vin p, with respect to the intake manifold, on the chevy vans?
Thanks

FYI - van and hummer turbo heads are machined at a flatter angle where the intake manifold bolts on - the mounting bolts are more vertical for clearance.

That i\m won't bolt on to standard truck turbo heads without considerable machine work.

VIN 'P' is the non turbo L49, intake manifold just like an old 6.2/6.5 n/a truck

Thanks guys. I went to my local GM dealer and got the part numbers, and they can order the parts at a resonable price ( even compared to ebay).
GMCTD, thanks for the info on the angle, but I will not be attaching the two pleniums, so the angle should not be a problem. Also, if it was I would change the crossover instead of the heads, because it is a lot less work.
Thanks again

Will that hummer/van combo fit under the hoods of our trucks or is there other clearance problems, ie .... Firewall?

Turbo would hit the firewall - then there's the downpipe.

Man with a slow hand, a ball pein hammer, and a sure eye could punt, tho........

I plan on using electric fans for boost. I could be wrong but if I put one fan on each plenium, install pop off valves, and measure the boost , I am hoping for good results.
I know this is a sticky subject, but I want to get away from turbos, but keep the benefits.

Please keep us infomed and updated with pictures.
OH BTW good luck

I plan on using electric fans for boost. I could be wrong but if I put one fan on each plenium, install pop off valves, and measure the boost , I am hoping for good results.
I know this is a sticky subject, but I want to get away from turbos, but keep the benefits.
Electric fans won't compress air:badidea:

According to some ads on e-bay, you can..............

show me

I've seen the ads BUT I'd like to see it really work, like with a boost gauge connected and watch the boost drop off with a flip of the switch

Do you mean a blower as in a 4-71 or 6-71, which came on older diesels, or like a funny car or top fuel dragster?

I think he's referring to the Ebay special 'Supercharge Anything' electric fan.

I've actually seen one on a VW diesel van. I doubt it could even keep up with the engines air demands, much less make any pressure. It was just a 3" squirrel cage fan.

Bingo, TDG........

Here's an interesting experiment for those intrepid seekers of knowledge -

You will need a 0-30" vacuum gage and a 0-15psi pressure gage, to measure available Boost.

First, tell the significant other that there is a one-day sale down at Kohl's, or some such local emporium.
This will prevent any negative reprisals.

Then, get that s.o.'s cannister-type vacuum cleaner.
Note the precise arrangement of the unit and it's utemsils in it's resident location, for when you return it after the experinment.

Plumb the vacuum gage to the pick-up hose, turn on the motor, and note any available vacuum.

Turn the motor off.

Remove the gage and plumbing.

Now would be a good time for a quick reconnoiter outside, checking for that s.o.'s early return from shopping.

Yeah - like that would ever happen, but - just to be safe, do it.

If all is well, remove the pick-up hose from the vacuum end of the cannister, and plug it into the output - blow - end.

Plumb the 0-15psi pressure gage to the pick-up hose.

Turn the motor on, note the resulting 'Boost' pressure, remove any\all evidence of your experiment, then return the vac to it's resident location.

Make absollutely sure the hose, cord, and various vac utensils are exactly as you found them.

Now, post your results here, for benefit of those too timid to accomplish such stressfull experimentation.

Yes, I will be using an electric motor with an impeller. I will run a test this morning to find out if it can compress air.

In order for this to work, you need to understand the following.

To make 15 psi at 350 CFM you would need, in a perfect system, 22.8 HP. Squirrel Cage blowers rarely exeed 60% efficiency, so you would need 38 HP. That would take 28,348 watts to run. On a 12V nominal system you would need 2363 amps of current, which your alternator coulnt hope to produce even a tenth of.

Not to mention that a 38HP 12VDC motor would weigh upwards of 300lbs. Not saying it cant be done, but from an engineering standpoint, it is wholly unpractical.

It does kinda give you a new respect for our little turbos.

Tim

P.S. If you want to get away from the turbos, the next best thing is a paxton supercharger belt driven from the crank. Would be a lot eaiser to empliment, and a lot cheaper too!

Thanks for having the patience to put up the #s cowracer. That is what I've been saying all along, just too obvious to be bothered with the math and physics.

Yeh, yeh - easy to tell who wears the pants in you guys' houses.................;)

Ok. For all of you who told me it would not work, you are correct. There is no boost.
I used a kirby vacuum cleaner, which by the way fits perfectly into the rubber hose on the intake. That Kirby is more powerful than any device I could by on ebay, so I know none of them will work, but I had to see it for myself. Thanks for your patients, and I will discontinue trying to repace my turbo's.
Thanks,
Ray

Good work - tho I cannot imagine why you would want to eliminate the turbo.

It is essentially free power enhancement.................

Good work - tho I cannot imagine why you would want to eliminate the turbo.

It is essentially free power enhancement.................

Yes GMCTD, It is as you say,a essentially free power enhancement, BUT it is also a major pain in the aCensored for us 6.5'ers, BUT it's the best thing we got going for us to. :exactly:

How about this one (it is a 25 second video)http://www.electricsupercharger.com/images/videos/combined%2040%20gallon%20trash%20bag%20video%20fin al_1.wmv
At least it makes a little pressure.

The purpose for eliminating the turbo is as follows:
1. access to injectors and glow plugs is limited under the turbo.
2. the turbo caused back pressure in the exhaust
3. the turbo causes excessive heating
4. if the seal goes out, the oil is sucked from the engine, causing a rebuild ( and do not attempt to tell me the OPS will stop this, because I have disconnected the OPS and it takes 2 minutes at idle for the engine to burn the diesel in the IP and stop).
5. if the bearing goes, it can cause the impeller to chip and parts go into the engine, cauing a rebuild.
I hope you can see why I would prefer a better solution.
Thanks

If you hit an 18-wheeler head-on, it can shatter the compressor fan, blowing parts into your engine, also - let's get rid of 18-wheelers.

If a 747 fell on your truck, it could shatter.......well, you get the drift, right?

The sky is not falling, my friend.

Explain, in detail, the seal configuration at each end of the turbine shaft.

Then explain how either failure can 'suck' oil outta the engine.

Remember, here - If a Diesel is developing vacuum in the intake system, you got other problems.

If it is developing vacuum in the exhaust system, you need to patent the cause and effect, before the racers get ahold of it.

Yeah, I'm being facetious, but the main feature, the main point, of having a turbo blows away, so to speak, any associated 'problems', imaginary or otherwise.

Only problem I've ever had with a turbo is controlling my right foot - and an 18-wheeler, or a 747, would be the serious cure for that, eh?

How about this one (it is a 25 second video)http://www.electricsupercharger.com/images/videos/combined%2040%20gallon%20trash%20bag%20video%20fin al_1.wmv
At least it makes a little pressure.

1.7 psi for $596?!?! And then only at W.O.T?!?? And it takes 114 Amps to do it?

I can think of better ways to piss away money

Tim