I just got Remington 265's. Load range E.

If I was going on a trip with 500 lbs in the bed, what would be a good PSI?

Ide like the best mileage, and also the most even wear, if that is at all possible.

Tx!

500lbs isn't much of a load. Unlikely that 5psi one way or the other is going to make a huge difference in ride quality, wear, or anything else. I'd just air them up to the manufacturer's suggested pressure and drive...

My truck came with 265 Es (Bridgestone). The door sticker says (from memory, sorry wife has the truck right now): Front 60 or 65 (not sure) and rear 75. But I've been lowering them since getting the truck as the ride is HARSH! I'm down to 45 in the rear and 55 in the front and it seems to be about as good as it's gonna get. But your Q was on mileage, and for that, air up! higher pressure is your friend... I also noticed an improvement in traction with the lower air pressures too, btw...

Just a side note on making tires last longer: We used to be sponsored by BFG when we raced and had access to some really good tech folks. One thing we learned for street tire longevity is to do your 1st rotation at about 1000 miles. When you do this, you break the wear pattern before it gets established on the tire, once the wear pattern is formed the tire tends to wear in those areas reguardless of future rotation. I rotate mine at 1k from new, then every 5k after, and always do a cross rotation (backs straight forward, fronts cross to opposite rears).

Good luck on your trip!

Whats the max inflation on the tire? Mine is 55 and unloaded I run with 40, if loaded I cranck it all the way up. 500#'s isnt alot. If you know what the back end ways you can do the whole ratio thing to get close. If your ass end weighs 2000 pounds say thats 1000k per tire. if your tires are rated for 4k at 50psi you only need a 1/4 or so so 13psi....you get the point basicly.

Whats the max inflation on the tire? Mine is 55 and unloaded I run with 40, if loaded I cranck it all the way up. 500#'s isnt alot. If you know what the back end ways you can do the whole ratio thing to get close. If your ass end weighs 2000 pounds say thats 1000k per tire. if your tires are rated for 4k at 50psi you only need a 1/4 or so so 13psi....you get the point basicly.

13psi??? :eek: I don't even air mine down that far for offroading. I sure hope you don't run your tires that low at highway speeds!!! :badidea:

Yes, the weight capacity is not linear with the total air pressure capacity of the tire. Somewhere I read one manufacturer's recomendation (I think it was Michellin) for air pressure to weight rating for a given tire. I think it was on this forum somewhere too...

I'll see if I can dig that up...

I was trying to use numbers to make the math easy since i aint the sharpest tool in the shed ;)

The RV forums ussually have lotsa good info on this. I also remember reading that using the ratio method is a way to get close and then set your air pressure on a cool tire, drive a bit on the highway and see how much pressure you pick up. if its within a certian percent you arnt underinflated and can drop a bit. Cant remember the percent though???

we could probably arm wrestle over which of us is the duller tool in the shed :) ... I know at least one other factor that affects what you talking about for trial and error testing, and that's the amount of moisture in the air of the tire. I think that's a reason race teams use pure Nitrogen for their tires (a bit extreme for us). So anyway I found that thread, let's see if I can point to it in this post :rolleyes:

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32549&page=2&highlight=load

I have a gravel quarry near me with truck scales and weighed my last truck there -- really is helpfull to know how much weight is on the front/rear/total when you are trying to make sure you are safe in your tire/wheel/load setup. I'm going to go weigh this one before I get my camper set on it...

take 'er easy...

I have Revo E's and have been running at 65 lbs, 7k miles, 9800 lbs. GVW. I just checked the tread depth and it's the same on the outer edge of the tread as the center. This is an indication that they have been run at the correct pressure. With a smaller GVW the "right" pressure would likely be lower. Another consideration is the terrain. Tires w/ high pressure puncture and cut a lot easier than w/ low pressure.

Ive got 60 psi in there now.......

When I get on it, it really seems to fishtail. Not nearly the lateral stiffness of the old tires........might this change? Ive got ~50 miles on the tires.........

I was just at the tire dealer and had 265's put on, the guy who owns the place said that 80psi is entirely too much for that truck at any time, he claims that at 80 psi, the tire can be too stiff and cause bouncing which in turn can cause cupping and less traction just like an underinflated tire. 55 or 60psi max was his recomendation.

He also commented that the General needs to put 265's on from the factory, he doesn't think the 245's have enough traction for the weight of these trucks.

To get the best wear out of your tire and mileage give this a try.
Take a piece of chalk and mark across the tread of your tire side to side. Drive a few feet look at the mark it should rub off evenly across the tread. If it wears in the center take out some air, wears on the edges put some in.

If you got a load, just try to duplicate when doing this.

I'm running 265/75/16's on stock aluminum rims and I run both front and back at 60PSI. The ride is a little stiff, but since I got a new job I am driving over 700 miles a week. With the 265's at 60 PSI (calculating a 3.9% difference from stock tire) running between 55-70MPH I get anywhere from 20-22.6MPG, the 22.6 being the best, but mostly 20-22MPG every fill up... This is also running B5 Biodiesel, edge level 3/low boost level 1.

Dan