What to Look for in Buying a 85 6.2L K5: Will be buying on Sat. [Archive] - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

: What to Look for in Buying a 85 6.2L K5: Will be buying on Sat.


Johnny-Law
05-14-2010, 12:17 AM
I have been a mechanic for a long time, but do not remember working on these vehicles and was interested in buying a local one. I will be looking at the vehicle this Saturday and was hoping you guys could shed some light on what exactly to look for besides the obvious. I will go over the usual and check for cracked heads/blown head gasket and the stall speed of the converter along with line pressure, but what are the things I need to look at that only the guys that have turned wrenches on them would know. Anything in relation to the following:

-Injection pump
-Diffs
-Transfer case
-Common places for the frame welds to crack
-Identifying characterics that would make this year of vehicle a bad year to buy such as build date or casting numbers.
-Cooling issues
-Steering issues that are inherent to this make and model
-Sealing issues
-Anthing else

Any help would be appreciated and thank you in advance for taking the time to post.

whisky runner
05-14-2010, 06:51 AM
i am no expert...buttttt...listen to it..should sound like a diesel..a bowl of marbles.. no sharp rattles or tapping and for sure no low rumbling ones either..and it should spin good and fire right up..maybe a wisp of black..no white or blue smoke signals....open the radiator cap while running see if coolant level is good and stays in the radiator..look to see if the oil is staying inside the engine..while down there look for cracks near the steering box mounting bolts..other than that just treat it like any other old truck someone is try to get rid of for some reason they aint really going to tell you about.. just my three 3cents....ha ha ha ha ha ha

smackzed
05-14-2010, 07:34 AM
An '85 should have a silver box style filter that can leak air into the fuel but is easily replaced with spin on filters. Eveything else is as Whiskyrunner says except grey smoke after first being fired can just be a few glowplugs that need replacing. After it's run for a minute there should be no visible smoke unless you gun it then there should be just a wisp of black if everything is set right. Anymore than a wisp of black and it's being overfueled. Oh look for exessive blowby at the oil fill cap.

4320Diesel
05-14-2010, 05:41 PM
when its first started up cold, expect a bit of blue, white, black smoke for a few seconds then it will clear up.

Johnny-Law
05-14-2010, 10:15 PM
i am no expert...buttttt...listen to it..should sound like a diesel..a bowl of marbles.. no sharp rattles or tapping and for sure no low rumbling ones either..and it should spin good and fire right up..maybe a wisp of black..no white or blue smoke signals....open the radiator cap while running see if coolant level is good and stays in the radiator..look to see if the oil is staying inside the engine..while down there look for cracks near the steering box mounting bolts..other than that just treat it like any other old truck someone is try to get rid of for some reason they aint really going to tell you about.. just my three 3cents....ha ha ha ha ha ha


Thanks for the steering box cracks information, as I would not have looked for that without your advice.

Destry
05-14-2010, 10:29 PM
also check the fuel lines along the frame and tank for excessive rust. check the fuel filler tube to verify it was original diesel and not opened up.. that will tell a few tales. and make sure vaccum pump is working..:cool:

Johnny-Law
05-14-2010, 10:34 PM
As a smog tech I check gasoline cars for leaded gas but I would not have thought to check for Red die.

Thanks

DT75FLH
05-14-2010, 10:53 PM
4x4 or 2x4...

if 4x4 check the linkage between the steering arm and the pitman. excess play will make it wander. easy fix with new TRE

check the ball joints if 4x4 if not look at the bushings on th ea-arms for 2x4

all the gm in those years were prone to cracking around the steering box if large tires and lifts were run on it. easy to fix as alot of places have weld/blot in reinforcment plates there.

I bought a 85 3/4 ton sub with 280k miles on it and a blown crank. I swapped the engines with a low mile take out and for giggles took of the heads on the old motor. there was no real visible wear on the cyl. no ridge or anything and it looked to be an original engine.

I was impressed

Johnny-Law
05-15-2010, 12:01 AM
Yea, it is a 4X4 and thanks for the info!


4x4 or 2x4...

if 4x4 check the linkage between the steering arm and the pitman. excess play will make it wander. easy fix with new TRE

check the ball joints if 4x4 if not look at the bushings on th ea-arms for 2x4

all the gm in those years were prone to cracking around the steering box if large tires and lifts were run on it. easy to fix as alot of places have weld/blot in reinforcment plates there.

I bought a 85 3/4 ton sub with 280k miles on it and a blown crank. I swapped the engines with a low mile take out and for giggles took of the heads on the old motor. there was no real visible wear on the cyl. no ridge or anything and it looked to be an original engine.

I was impressed

sls639
05-15-2010, 08:20 AM
The top bolt for the rear shocks tend to loosen and "warble" out, easy fix though.
Floors tend to rust out at front corners, and under the seat. Also check the Floor "rib" that holds the door rubber. Not really deal breakers, or bargaining chips, just things you might have to deal with later.

Johnny-Law
05-15-2010, 12:12 PM
The top bolt for the rear shocks tend to loosen and "warble" out, easy fix though.
Floors tend to rust out at front corners, and under the seat. Also check the Floor "rib" that holds the door rubber. Not really deal breakers, or bargaining chips, just things you might have to deal with later.


Thanks, I would not have looked under the door rubber or for the top shock bolts.

sls639
05-15-2010, 10:03 PM
Well,... Do we get to see it?

Destry
05-16-2010, 01:29 AM
pics??

Johnny-Law
05-16-2010, 10:55 PM
Well,... Do we get to see it?


No, it would require more time to fix it up to where I would want it than I currently have.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uUUr-tNzXyg

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1985-M1009-CUCV-K5-Chevy-Blaver-/110531874502?cmd=ViewItem&pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item19bc368ec6

The steering is loose and the TV cable for the transmission needs to be adjusted. The drivers side valve cover is leaking and the AC belt is missing so I could not tell if the system is fully charged or not. The truck is very clean underneath and if someone had the time it would be a really sweet ride.

sls639
05-16-2010, 11:45 PM
Just curiously, what was he asking?

Johnny-Law
05-17-2010, 12:37 AM
Just curiously, what was he asking?


We did not discuss it, but I think I could of had it for 3.75K He and a new grill for it and a banks ram air kit along with two new batteries and ...

I think it was overall fare, but I just don't have the time to fix it up my self.

whisky runner
05-17-2010, 06:40 AM
wow love that blazer...i wish i had the extra buxs it would be at my house..:)

sls639
05-17-2010, 10:15 AM
Little high IMHO.