: 1993 chevy 3500 6.5 dsl
87hoskins06 05-08-2010, 09:35 PM I have a 93 chevy single wheel one ton extended cab 6.5 td, i have several problems with it currently as the guy i bought it from fixed it up good nuff to sell and suckered me into it, i love the truck n all but i dont want to be workin on it every day as i got work to do
1. my check engine light wont come on period, was told my computer was fried
2. my dash lights will flicker when touching anything electronic (ie blinkers) and my ampmeter will go left and back to normal consistent to my blinkers on,
3. loud clunkin or bangin noise while stopped, but stops once i put it in nuetral(automatic), it sounds like a brake line rattling but i think its wierd that once i put it in nuetral it stops, it does it minimal going down the hwy at times.
4. whats the easiest way to remove the valve covers as its leakin oil out of it perty good?
5. also glow plug light will flash a couple times at start up, this means one of my plugs are bad right? i would definitly appreciate all the help i can get as all the diesels i have had had never one problem in all my life.
farmboy56 05-08-2010, 10:39 PM 1. Your truck is mechanically injected. NO COMPUTERS. Your "check engine" light won't come on because out motors rock!!!
2. Your OPS is probably bad, I would replace it.
5. Just replace all of your glow plugs & glow plug controller.
I replaced my ALL FLUIDS, lift pump, lift pump relay, OPS, GP Relay, and ALL Glow Plugs when I bought it and I havn't had any problems in 50,000 miles except for replace the glow plugs and the OPS.
Chaz Michaels 05-08-2010, 11:20 PM 1. Your truck is mechanically injected. NO COMPUTERS. Your "check engine" light won't come on because out motors rock!!!
If the truck has an automatic transmission, it will have a computer. The computer takes input from the throttle position sensor on the fuel injection pump to control shifts. The computer would be in the dash, behind the glovebox.
The glow plug light flashes on and off by design. The glow plugs "cycle" on and off by means of the glow plug relay as they warm up when you first turn the key on.
4320Diesel 05-08-2010, 11:20 PM hes got the 4L80E automatic in there guy. so there is a computer. the glowplugs flashing on and off right after you start it is totally normal. its called afterglow, it keeps the prechambers in the head warm to reduce start up smoke, and keep the engine running smooth untill it warms up. the voltmeter moving around while the flasher is on is normal too. i have yet to see a vehicle where the voltmeter doesnt move when you put the flashers on or crank up the heaterfan. also, the reason the check engine light dont come on could be(doubt it though) the bulb is burned out.
hnbperformance 05-08-2010, 11:46 PM as for the dash light flickering when the blinkers are turned on one way or the other -- you have a bad turn signal ground in one of the corners and the bylb is back feeding through the running lamps to find a ground -- if you get it to acr up on the side that back feeds it should blink the running light outside also -- definately a ground problem for this flickering -- just need to find out which corner it is --
bk95td 05-09-2010, 10:51 AM In a 93 with a automatic transmission ,the computer is called the PCM [powertrain control modual] The inputs it uses from the engine are throttle position and engine rpm. All other inputs come from the transmission.
Clean all grounds from batteries to engine,engine to body,body to frame and black wire at the rear of intake manifold. There also is grounds to the frame near the fuel filler neck and a tailight ground near drivers side rear bumper mount.
Wa_rWagon 05-09-2010, 03:56 PM You need to check the fusible links for the computer – they are above the AC accumulator in that power box/terminal. If it shifts gears the computer has power.
Sounds like a bad ground or battery cable. The main power comes off the battery and usually shorts to the battery tray passenger side. This wire also corrodes. Run a replacement to the main power bus from the battery. Also check the grounds by taking them apart and cleaning all the hidden corrosion out. Esp the battery connections. Replace the battery cables if they are too corroded up as the acid wicks down the wire. A stiff to bend battery cable is internally corroded.
87hoskins06 05-18-2010, 09:38 PM thanks guys, ill look into, been meanin to swap batteries outta of it to stronger ones, recently i pulled a 24 ft gooseneck stock trailer and i had no power after 50 mph in drive, i know most diesels smoke under a load, but barely a seethrough puff comes out when floored, i have heard you can tune this trucks by a screw, where is thing located, also might put a k&n filter cold air on it and remove the muffler on it, im sure that will help some but i want more power outta of it, please help lol!
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