maxno2
07-06-2005, 10:02 AM
Any issues with bleeding brakes in respect the anti-lock? Seems like I read somewhere that you can screw up the anti-lock if your not careful. Did a couple of searches and can't find any info on this....maybe urban legend!
Any help appreciated.
dieselrcr337
07-06-2005, 05:23 PM
Nope. the 2003 silverado books do say you need to do it a specfic order. i dont have the books with me they are at the shop so i cant tell you the order they need to be bleed in.
OmyLLwhy
07-07-2005, 07:46 PM
Back in the old days we would:
1st right rear
2nd left rear
3rd right front
4th left front
kinda like starting with the one furthest away and work back to the closest one to the master cylinder. But that was way back when i thought I was smart.
Omy!
number9
07-07-2005, 08:57 PM
Tons of good tech info on everything GM trucks can be found here - just use the search http://www.pacific-audio.com/performance-discussion.html
Also, TONS of brake and other GM truck info here http://aplsweb.com/Topics/Brakes.htm just scroll to the bottom of the page and the "home" page link is on the right hand bottom corner.
mightyvh
07-08-2005, 10:38 AM
Just bled mine 2 weeks ago in the order stated above and no problems. I used the ATE super blue which make it really easy to see when you have flushed the lines out. Here is a link to a previous thread with some info on it and motive pressure bleeder etc.
http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16622&highlight=motive
if you look at the 7th post in this thread - thats what I followed......Bill
cit1991
07-13-2005, 04:03 PM
ATE makes a great fluid, full DOT4, and you can get it in blue and clear. They do that so you alternate between the two and can see the new fluid arriving.
Get a pressure bleeder (just like a small bug sprayer), fill it with 2 qts of fluid, hook it up the M/C, and pressurize it to 5 psi or so.
Then go around and open the bleeders 1 at a time and let em flow till you get the color change. No pumping, or worrying about the MC going dry. well worth the $30 or so for the bleeder.
It also makes it easier to flush very thoroughly. I use about 1 qt per wheel.
The line and the bleeder are usually very close to each other, so the caliper fluid itself doesn't get changed. For the truly anal....
Flush the lines, then remove and dump out the calipers. Then bleed out the caliper air with fresh fluid.
Even I don't do that though, except at pad changes.