I'm a newbie to diesels but so far I love my chev '05 2500HD crew cab 2wd with duramax and allision. I am seriosly considering a 37' KZ toy hauler 5th wheel with dry weight of 11,240 and approx loaded weight of 14,500. Does anyone tow a similar 5th wheel travel trailer with this same truck? How does the truck handle it? Do you use the tow/haul mode all the time? even on the flat interstate? I think the tow rating on this truck from GM for a 5th wheel trailer is 15,600. Thanks in advance for any info.

My 5th is 15,030lb, fully loaded. Truck handles it fine. Remember, you'll be running at or close to GM's limit for the truck. Just because the truck can go fast with that load doesn't mean you should. Slow is safe. Also, I think the weight contributed to my torque converter failing. Might want to look into a triple disk and Mike L's trans cooler - it kicks butt!

8shot said it! Mine handles fine as well ... always worth it to be wary and well planned.

RJ

Do the ‘05s have a higher GVW than the earlier HDs? If not you probably will be over the trucks GVW because of the pin weight of the trailer, but probably under the CGVW. The GVW is the factor that really matters. It’s the amount of weight you can put on the truck, including driver, passengers, fuel, all other articles typically aboard, PLUS the hitch and pin weight of your trailer. More often than not you’ll exceed the GVW long before you reach the CGVW. The truck will have plenty of power to handle the load, but it moves you into that gray area beyond the factory approved rating, which could have warranty, or even liability issues, if there is a problem.

TC

I'll bet you're over weight. My 35' KZ toy hauler with the truck, fuel and passangers is within 500 lb of the 22,000lb CGWR weighed at a CAT Scale.

Guy's remember one thing. These trucks will pull a house. Stopping them is another story.

Also if you do buy the KZ get the Slider Hitch. You'll thank me later.

Bob

I find that an 8000 lb load is my absolute limit WITHOUT trailer brakes. Not doing that again....EVER.....

Also if you do buy the KZ get the Slider Hitch. You'll thank me later.
Why would he need a slider hitch, if he has a long bed?

I thought they were only for short beds and rather a pain to use.



As far as running in Tow mode all the time while towing, the answer is YES with any trailer over 75% of the truck's haul capacity.

The benefit lies in the engine braking.

I use seven amps less current to the trailer brakes, all due to the enhanced braking of this truck over my previous one without it.

:)

I find that an 8000 lb load is my absolute limit WITHOUT trailer brakes. Not doing that again....EVER.....Ouch.

Any trailer over 3,000 pounds has to have its own braking system, around here.

8,000 is WAY too much!


;)

See my sig for what I tow with mine, but it's a LB7. Tows and stops it very good, I'm sure the 12.3/4" x 3.1/4" brake shoes on each axle help a little. Make sure you don't exeed the weight rating on the rear axle tires though.

Always have trailer brakes!It's a :badidea: not to.I have pulled without brakes and may have to again but I prefer to have trailer brakes.These factory brakes aren't the greatest on these D-Max's.I pulled close to 20k with my 97 2500 454.It handled if fine.I will do the same with my 2500hd D-Max next time I need to haul hay bales.

I have a 7x20 tandem axle steel auto transport with electric trailer brakes and not once have I ever felt that they worked. It is a brand new trailer with 2000 miles on it. Maybe I'm doing something wrong.

Unit453, maybe they're not? Are you adjusting the brakes when they are warm? I like to feel the trailer brakes engage just before the trucks. Just my thing! JJ

You also need to remember that trailer brakes are generally cheap and prone to problems. What you need to ask yourself is, "The Big IF". If the plug falls out, wire gets pinched, blows a fuse, etc etc... Can you still control this trailer or will you kill someone trying to stop it. Personally I think your overloaded for a 3/4 ton.

Just my .02 cents worth

I guess I just assumed it was a short bed. But I will tell you this the slider is a fantastic hitch and is very easy to use. I have already seen several 5er's bust their rear cab windows using a standard hitch on a short box.

Bob

NOTE:

Checking electric trailer brakes:
Step 1: Apply tow vehicle service brake.
Step 2: Release tow vehicle emergency (hand) brake.
Step 3: Manually apply electric trailer brake, full-on.
Step 4: Engage tow vehicle transmission in lower forward gear

If trailer electric brake holds both vehicles in place (after rolling approx. 1 ft. forward), then the brakes are safe for highway use.

If trailer electric brake does not hold both vehicles, but does have some braking affect, then the electric brake mechanism requires adjustment (see owner's manual for adjusting brakes). Unless metal on metal sound is heard, then the pads are gone ($$$).

If trailer electric brake does not have any affect, but the brake controller indicates good connection, then the pads are either completely worn down, there is a fault in the electric brake wiring where only one or two wheels are engaging, or all trailer wheel electric brakes are way out of adjustment.

In such cases, a quick, easy, and cheap check is accomplished with a magnetic compass.
Step 1) Have the trailer fully connected to the tow vehicle and the trailer wheels chocked, while parked in a North or South direction.
Step 2) Have someone in the cab to apply the service brakes on command. Keep emergency (hand) brake engaged.
Step 3) Place cheap magnetic compass next to the trailer wheel hub and have helper apply the tow vehicle service brake (with ignition on, of course). If brake is engaging, the compass will point to the metalic hub (with plastic hub caps removed).
Repete for each wheel.
If all brakes are magnetically engaging when the brake is applied, then the circuits are good, check for adjustments of the brake pads on each wheel.

Hope this helps anyone with possible/probable electric trailer brake problems.

Post Scriptum:

It is a good idea to do a "tug test", as indicated above, everytime you are to put the vehicle in motion. Wise acres and mischivious teenagers have been known to pull electric plugs, or worse, locking mechanisms on fivers at truck stops, rest areas, etc. while the operator is absent (for bio-breaks or paying for fuel), then hiding behind a bush to watch for the trailer to drop, or calling the police to report a vehicle without tail lights, then following the unit down the highway to watch the operator get pulled over.

RF

I can't tell for sure if you got duallys. Either case tires are the weakest link. E's rated at 3420 lbs each i think so it's quick to get to 6840 lbs. I've tried it for 2,000 miles and found the handling unnerving especially while crossing rails and those pesky expension joints on the interstates. good working brakes are sweet once you have the confidence/balls to build up some speed. 100mph+ is real with these these trucks today just be careful and enjoy.

I had a 2500 HD and towed a 37 ft 5th wheel....dry weight 11,700#...I always drained the tanks and I travel alone so I travel light.....

The vehicle did a great job...the prodigy brake controller took care of stopping the beast that was always chasing me....

After 99980 miles of trouble free driving, I upgraded to a 3500 DRW a month ago.....because it was spring time and not because I had any problems with the tow vehicle.

tekfatboy

I just bought a 05 2500HD diesel quad cab short bed 4x4 and was calculating loads to buy a fifth wheel. It has a 9200 GVWR and weighs 6880 strait from the dealer with me and a full tank of fuel. (4220 front and 2660 rear)

I think your 14,500 lb loaded fifthe wheel will put you way over the limit. 5th wheel pin weight will be 20% of gross weight give or take. That puts your pin at 2900lbs. Add 200 or so for your hitch and you are adding 3100 lbs to the bed of your truck. If your truck is like mine and factory plain when you add the 3100 lbs for the hitch and pin weight with just you and the truck with no extra luggage your truck will be at 9980 or 780 lbs over truck GVWR. If you have additional passengers or stuff in your truck the numbers are worse. You would not probably be over rear axle capacity or gross combination weight but it would not matter because you have to go back to the weekest link to figure your limitations.

On my truck there is an additional tire loading chart that says that the load range E tires limit the weight of the cargo and occupants to 2499lbs.

To keep everything in line with my trucks numbers I need to keep my trailer weight at 10,000 loaded. That gives me 2000lbs pin, 200 for the hitch and 120lbs of fudge.

Terry

Hun- am I reading your post right? You're telling this guy, a newby by his own description, that pulling a 14,500 lb fifth wheel at 100 mph is "REAL?" :eek:

No one in their right mind would tow a 10,000+# trailer of any kind over about 70-75 mph. And 100 mph is about the most stupid thing one could ever do!

My trailer is only 10,000# and the truck/trailer stops much better then the truck alone. You can't beat good trailer brakes.

Thanks,RF, for the tips on checking them out. (Didn't you used to be from Louisiana?)

Zip. Your welcome, and NO...Not Cajun. Usually pass through LA without stopping. Currently in MD, but will be in NM in Aug. Full-timing it!

RF

Here is the deal... the new Fords can tow (according to specs) much more than we can... Almost to the point where you need a CDL... that being said I aint driving a Ford. I am also not driving a long bed, or a dually. (wont fit in the garage) I towed my 10,000 lb dry weight trailer about 23,000 miles with the last truck with no problems ever. I added a generator and guys I tow with my water tank full and here is why. Water weighs 7 pounds per gallon so 80 gallons of water weighs about 560 lbs... My fresh water tank is in the very back of the trailer and dry unloaded without my LP onan genny I am over my pin weight by 300#s so I can counter that by leveraging more weight off the very back. I also got a set of firestone air springs (with our trucks the difference between the 3500 SWR and the 2500HD is the 265s and the extra spring. Same trans, same brakes, same rear diff, same axels. The weak link is the tires. I have run good E range coopers or michelins (265s) on the old truck... make sure you rotate them as running with that kind of weight on the rears will wear the tires out to the point that with my coopers the fronts lasted through 2 sets of rears. With the new truck I got some 285 toyos and they are rated for 170 lbs less than my coopers were but are rated for the same weight as the stock 240s... Ill try them but may have to keep looking for a 285/75/17 e range tire some more as I have not found any for my H2 take off wheels. The new truck does not have rails installed yet so I am not sure if the tires will be too squirley but we will see soon. I would strongly suggest you get very familiar with the trans braking features, if that is not enough Banks makes a nice exhaust brake and I would also suggest 16 inch wheels on the trailer and get a Jordan Ultima 2020. I had a Prodigy and there is no comparison. TONS better control witht the Jordan. I pulled our 5ver through the canadian rockies and it rocked... That is why I bought a new one... And the old one was stock!!!

Drew

Always have trailer brakes!It's a :badidea: not to.I have pulled without brakes and may have to again but I prefer to have trailer brakes.These factory brakes aren't the greatest on these D-Max's.I pulled close to 20k with my 97 2500 454.It handled if fine.I will do the same with my 2500hd D-Max next time I need to haul hay bales.

8000 without trailer brakes sounds like another form of suicide, try it one time on a long 6% grade and you won't need anyone to tell you anything, the answer will be obvious