got a test and tune pull coming up and i need to know what i am going to break, if anything. mods are in signature. trans is stock. i plan on running nicks 530hp max effort tune (probably too much i know). i use spring clamps and rear suspension stops.

this is my daily driver i just want to be ready if something goes...

shouldn't break anything if you got braces and such..maybe a u joint but i've known guys who been pullin 20+ years and broke u joints maybe 2 or 3 times

you wont need it pulling but a trans is a big must if your using that power on the street or strip.

i wouldnt even think of running that tune on the street. i figured it would be ok 4 lo 3rd gear though.

so should i consider making some drive shaft hoops?

You should consider a traction bar of some sort. I use cal-tracs, lots of guys say they are not good. I like for dual purpose use, pulling and drag racing. You can never go wrong having drive shaft loops and ujoint shields.

Why would you pull in low range?
:confused:

Why would you pull in low range?
:confused:


its easier on the trans

u should be ok if u drop the front end a set of tie rod sleeves are almost a must, but u have them so your good there, traction bars are also a great idea, u can make up a set for less then 300 dollars, they will help the back end from hopping, joint shields would be nice but not a must at this point, if u were doing more serious pullin then yes,

I'm basically in the same boat. I've read about guys pretzeling a driveshaft, which can cause a bunch of other damage on its way out. Loops would be nice. I think avoiding the downshift is the best prevention.

Why would you pull in low range?
:confused:

That's what I'll be doing once the double disc and various front end parts come in... 4th gear in 4 low may even try 5th.

i thought about making up some trac bars if i can find the cash and time to do it. probably ought to make some dirveshaft rings while im at it... couple years ago we got to watch half a tank of fuel hit the track after a driveshaft broke and smacked the tank. ooops

At the least clamp the springs! Keeping the rear axle in one place is the biggest thing to do to keep the driveshaft and u-joints alive. Good luck.

i def plan on clamping the springs. i drive daily with the front clamped:)

what do you guys think about hot lapping? im attending a test and tune pull and want to hook up a few times that day. do i need to let the truck cool before hooking up to the sled again?

i know to let the turbo cool before shutting her down....

IMO just keep an eye on your temps. Let the truck run.

[quote=Mr.YFZ450;3836547]its easier on the trans

quote]

Might be easier on the trans, but the trans shouldnt have a prob on the track. Plus 1st hi will give you much better wheel speed.

first high ranges is a little taller than third low range. however in high range the coverter doesnt lock up. An ive only seen first high work well with smaller tires. like 245's.

Seeing as Chris Roller is running 530hp on a stock 6 speed trans, how about a 500hp tune on my stock 5 speed trans? Not to high jack but would like the piece of mind knowing its not going to let loose.

[quote=Mr.YFZ450;3836547]its easier on the trans

quote]

Might be easier on the trans, but the trans shouldnt have a prob on the track. Plus 1st hi will give you much better wheel speed.

Most guys select 3rd low, you'd need some pretty large hp #s to pull more than that.

If you wouldn't use low range for sled pulling, what would you use it for?

Seeing as Chris Roller is running 530hp on a stock 6 speed trans, how about a 500hp tune on my stock 5 speed trans? Not to high jack but would like the piece of mind knowing its not going to let loose.


From what I've read, as long as you're in low range you're pretty safe. ( as far as pulling goes, anyways)

You can pull with a stock trans for a while, but know that a build is if your future. How often do you plan on pulling this summer? Be careful about possibly cracking a piston. I've seen a few LBZ and LMM engines do this do to the fact they are cast pistons and not forged. Have a drive shaft shop make you a HD drive shaft. The stock ones are ok, but all it takes is a little dent to make them weak. If you can run T-bars then I would do that instead of just spring clamps. Sleeves and braces up front and drop your torsion bars down.

why would anyone pull in high range first gear, no converter lock

all very good info. thanks guys. im working on a set of trac bars now. better be saving for a trans upgrade....

is piston trouble common at this power level?

whats a HD driveshaft usually cost?

can i help prevent piston troubles by watching my egts or do they crack due to the pressure?

can i help prevent piston troubles by watching my egts or do they crack due to the pressure?
Good question, I would like to know as well. I dont want a cracked piston either

can i help prevent piston troubles by watching my egts or do they crack due to the pressure?


Sounds like it's a combination. It's happened to stock trucks, so there's no hard and fast rule.

^^ it's not really an issue on lb7, lly trucks.

You pulling in Peoria May 16th at RCD test and Tune? You pulling the 6500class or the 8500class after test and tune? I will be there

There is no set power level or egt level that pistons crack at. Some crack stock and some crack with high power. Some never do. The big thing that makes these pistons crack I believe is timing and cylinder pressure. Two things make power in a diesel and that's fuel and air. More of both gets you more power. The other parameter that adds power is timing. By increasing the timing you start the injection/burn sooner so the fuel has a longer time to burn and burn more completely. Problem is with added timing is the fire in the cylinder is not in the bowl of the piston like it should be. It's happening on top of the piston and then gets funneled into the bowl to finish the burn. The flame spilling over the rim of the bowl can cause little burn notches and this weakens the piston to were it could crack. A way to help prevent this with stock pistons is to upgrade injectors. This will allow you to put more fuel into the cylinder in a shorter time versus having to widen pulse width and timing to compensate. Then you can run less timing and still get the kind of power you're looking for and be a little safer about it. Hope this helps.

yeah. pulling in peoria. look for me. how big a tune you running? looks like we are set up close to the same. i guess im in the 8500 class cuase my truck weighs about seven thousand pounds. thats how it works right?

wow. thanks for the info dan. i might consider that in the future. guess if i crack a piston (knock on wood) i will just have to upgrade at that point. will it be pretty obvious to me and everyone around that something devastating just happened inside the motor? :eek:

I have the 500hp tune from nick. Ladder bars,clamps dropping the front. Stock trans for now!! Still holding up. You know this is going to be a FORD fest. So we need to kick some ass. If you need any help let me know. I'm trying somthing diffrent this year. "Tires" Going from 305's at's to 265's 1/4 tread mt's.

You can also put a used set of LB7 or LLY pistons in. They are forged instead of cast. I have a set of LLY pistons if anyone is looking for them.

ALL the stock pistons in these trucks are cast pistons, not forged.