Since the wife grounded me from going hunting this weekend (found out Friday night) I decided I'd do lube, oil, filter on my 04 (3206miles). (I changed out the oil filter and trans filter at 1000 miles no oil though. Wanted to at 500 but didn't have time.)


First this wasn't any bit of fun. What a mess. 10 quarts is a bizatch to work with in only a carport. Just glad it was 70deg out today so it was warm enough for just a T-shirt.


Went after a bucket to hold that much liquid and then went to drop the drain plug. I figure they had to of installed the drain plug with a air gun as it took a massive tug to break it free. In the process I busted open three knuckles getting it off. Inspected cuts to see if hospital trip was necessary. Nope, but a trip to beer cooler for pain killer sure was. On the way back I discovered a leak in the bottom of the bucket I was using of course now it's full. Next was having the skid plate catch about a quart of oil and then drain off it in 8 different places outside of the new catch pan I put down, which only added to the mess on the concrete. Removed skid plate for further cleaning. OK so on to the filter... Boy I love where the Dmax filter is compared to my old 8.1L. Someone was thinking. Now I know I put it on with only a 3/4 turn after touching rubber but holy cow was it on there tighter than all get out. Busted the other hands knuckles doing that, and yes you bet, another beer cooler trip for more pain killer. Pulled the new filter out of the shipping box. WTF! Teach me not to plan ahead and order or stop by GMC to get a decent one. Had someone recommend WIX (made by DANA). The one I got only has four passage holes rather than the OEM having 8. Will have to stop off for a replacement.


Alright cleaned up the concrete, cuts stopped bleeding on to the lubing of the chassis. What could go wrong with this. Yep you guessed it, ran out of grease after two zerks. AHHH Crud! Well I gave up for the day. Took the used oil down to the store for recycle and get more grease, looked for a new 10+ quart pail and stopped off to restock the pain cooler ahhh meant beer cooler.


Some days I miss my old 73 Chevy short bed...


thanks for listening to the rant. I know I'll do better next time.


later


cmc

I didn't quite have those problems the first time I changed my oil but that skid plate. What a mess. Now I remove it before the change and now its no big deal. At least the filter is much easier to change than on a Dodge with cummins and auto.

I just use tinfoil to make a plate to keep the oil off the skidplate and then use another to keep the oil off the front driveshaft when changing the filter. A little easier than removing the skidplate.

Oh and a question to you that are far more verse in this stuff than I am...


When I removed the skid plate I noticed what looks like a drain pipe coming down the front/passenger side of the engine. Parts just around the end of it seemed oily. What is this for. I traced it all the way up to the top of the engine where it seems it dips into the valve cover. EGR, PCV or something of the sort?


thanks in advance.


cmc

A Fumoto valve with nipple will set it out just far enough to miss the skid plate. You can even attach a 3/8" hone and run it right into the old bottles. Stops the bloody knuckles too. As far as the filter goes, go slow and it won't make a mess. Either way, beer is always a good thing!


Kevin

And I just read the Fumoto post. Sure wish I had that... it's just what I need.


The J&B is helping keep the pain from typing and swollen knuckles down http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif I think I'll live.





cmc

I just take a gallon milk jug and cut the top half off to use as a funnel. It will wedge between the oil pan and skid plate, it works perfect every time. Don't do what I did and overfill the grease boots. I found out the hard way that the new style boots are not made to be filled up hard like a balloon. Just 1 or 2 pumps is all you need. If you fill too much you will either break the seal, rendering them useless, or they will bust on you down the road. I had 2 replaced under warranty that busted due to over filling. Remember the old style that you could pump until grease runs out so you could "replace the old grease"?

Yep, Fumoto valve is the perfect solution to "skid plate filling." The oily hose is the vent from the PCV oil separator. The Dmax doesn't recirculate the PCV to the intake but runs it through a separator that gravity drains back to the block and vents out that hose. It's normal to get a bit of oil out the hose and it is the source of the "strong oil odor" that many report after changes and with certain types of oil.

Someone was thinking. Now I know I put it on with only a 3/4 turn after touching rubber but holy cow was it on there tighter than all get out. Busted the other hands knuckles doing that, and yes you bet, another beer cooler trip for more pain killer. Pulled the new filter out of the shipping box. WTF! Teach me not to plan ahead and order or stop by GMC to get a decent one. Had someone recommend WIX (made by DANA). The one I got only has four passage holes rather than the OEM having 8. Will have to stop off for a replacement.





The stock filter is on pretty tight ain't it. I collapsed mine before I got it removed. I have a couple of the NAPA Gold(Wix) oil filters and they have 8 passage holes.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif However, after I use up my supply of these filters, I intend to go with the Baldwin's(IIRC part # is B1441).

While heading back down the the local auto 'grocery store' (Checker Auto) for some misc. consumables I took a second to see what if any they had oil filters listed for the DMAX. Sure enough good ol' Fram had one. The oil passage and thread depth were very differnt to the OEM unit. Oh well back in the box and went on my way.


Takes me back to when we put a fram filter on my father in laws Dodge 400 motor home engine. It was missing the rubber flap that kept the oil from all draining back into the pan. We got really worried when we'd fire that thing up and the valves would chatter like crazy since it sat for weeks on end.


cmc


cmc

There's also been a long thread for some time on the internal quality of the Fram filter sold for the DMax. Short answer is DO NOT USE IT! One was cut open to find a small/crappy filter section with no bypass valve and a chunk of CARDBOARD glued to the bottom of the element!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Dead.gif

The only Fram filter safe to buy is the fuel filter.... it's made by Racor and is the same as all brands.

I purchased a Fra air filter for my Wife's 94 Full Size Blazer..(gas). The filter element was super skimpy. No comparison to the OEM A/C Delco air filter. Stay away from Fram.

Years ago they used to be the filter to buy but they've gone the way of Fisher Audio and the like.

For those of you that have cussed and kicked because of the skid plate making a mess of your oil changes, try this: Take the skid plate off and cut a segment out of the plate that will alow the oil to drain without dribbling on the plate. The Plate is made of aluminum and is easy to cut. I used a sabre saw with an 18 tooth blade, but even a coarser blade will cut this plate. Just a thought, and a lot cheaper than the Fumoto valve with nipple.