My dealer is telling me that the Mobil DelVac 15W40 is the recommended oil for the Duramax. I ask if this is a Synthetic, he says no, that synthetics are not recommended for the current Duramax. Mine is a 2009.
Says its something to do with the diesel particulate filter, possible damage or loading and an item that costs like $1700.00.
Don't really understand this concept?
Wanderer47

Fuel Dilution in the oil is a problem because of the regeneration process, so it is not recommended to go to extended oil change intervals that synthetic oils are capable of.
I am not aware of any problems relating to the DPF because of synthetic oils though.

I've been running Amsoil 5-40 with their bypass system for a year now and no engine related problems at all. I also do not have a DPF on my truck, so no problems there either.:-)

I would suspect this service adviser needs to be educated in oils, and the engines he services.

As stated above, synthetic is just fine in your engine. Extended drain intervals are only recommended if you sample the oil through a company like Blackstone Labs.

There are a couple of oil challenges that the newer trucks face. The biggest one being what has already been talked about here. The DPF regen process can lead to some oil dilution if the oil is to extended oil change intervals without any UOA being completed. This may make the synthetic oils not as big a benefit as on other vehicles, but they are certainly not going to hurt your truck.

What I think the person that you were talking to was refering to (though in an only partially educated manner) is the fact that you have to run CJ4 spec oil in the trucks with a DPF, but most of the new oil is being manufactured to these standards. The CJ4 spec oil is LOW ASH oil. This becomes a big deal in your DPF. The particles that your DPF traps in your exhaust can be burned at high temps and cleaned out. But if you have an oil that when it passes the rings and gets burned in the combustion chamber and then releases ash into the exhaust this can be a problem. The ash will be trapped in the DPF and the ash wll not be burned with the regen process. Eventually the DPF will be clogged with ash from burned oil and the DPF will need to be cleaned or replaced.

I hope that the explains the issue a bit better and answers your questions.

My dealer is telling me that the Mobil DelVac 15W40 is the recommended oil for the Duramax. I ask if this is a Synthetic, he says no, that synthetics are not recommended for the current Duramax. Mine is a 2009.
Says its something to do with the diesel particulate filter, possible damage or loading and an item that costs like $1700.00.
Don't really understand this concept?
Wanderer47

This is exactly why I come here months before I bought a truck, learned just about everything about it I could possibly want to know. Go to the dealer, know more than they do, if they say something stupid, like this guy told you. I just roll out the info, would have been nice if you knew about the CJ4 rating, if it meets this, no issue, then throw out the possible oil dilution if you do extended oil changes. I always try to know more about the vehicle I'm going to buy than the person that is selling it. First place I went to told me I had to change out a separate DPF filter every 25K miles, I asked him where it was, of course he couldn't find it! Doesn't exists! Dumb salesmen. Chris

I think finding a new dealer might be in order...
my chevy dealer put in Mobil Syn Diesel in my truck....

I've been running synthetic oil for 60K miles now.

Ive been running 5/40 synthetic for 30,000 miles and have 0 issues.

[QUOTE=ColdWeather LMM;3833220]There are a couple of oil challenges that the newer trucks face. The biggest one being what has already been talked about here. The DPF regen process can lead to some oil dilution if the oil is to extended oil change intervals without any UOA being completed. This may make the synthetic oils not as big a benefit as on other vehicles, but they are certainly not going to hurt your truck.

What I think the person that you were talking to was refering to (though in an only partially educated manner) is the fact that you have to run CJ4 spec oil in the trucks with a DPF, but most of the new oil is being manufactured to these standards. The CJ4 spec oil is LOW ASH oil. This becomes a big deal in your DPF. The particles that your DPF traps in your exhaust can be burned at high temps and cleaned out. But if you have an oil that when it passes the rings and gets burned in the combustion chamber and then releases ash into the exhaust this can be a problem. The ash will be trapped in the DPF and the ash wll not be burned with the regen process. Eventually the DPF will be clogged with ash from burned oil and the DPF will need to be cleaned or replaced.

This would all be correct.

You never know who you might run across out there in these dealerships. Topic was covered very well above. This is a great a place to learn.

So to make it really clear, once you drop the DPF you can run any diesel oil?? What is the best oil if you have dropped the DPF??

I'm sure Heath will chime in here...

Correct, you could run the older CI-4+ or the new CJ-4, but the CI-4+ is getting harder to find as everyone is just going with the new. We still have old, but one day it will be gone as well.

Been running the Mobil turbo diesel synthetic with the DPF for over 40,000 with no issues.

This is exactly why I come here months before I bought a truck, learned just about everything about it I could possibly want to know. Go to the dealer, know more than they do, if they say something stupid, like this guy told you. I just roll out the info, would have been nice if you knew about the CJ4 rating, if it meets this, no issue, then throw out the possible oil dilution if you do extended oil changes. I always try to know more about the vehicle I'm going to buy than the person that is selling it. First place I went to told me I had to change out a separate DPF filter every 25K miles, I asked him where it was, of course he couldn't find it! Doesn't exists! Dumb salesmen. Chris

Good thoughts AChris,

Question does the Mobil DelVac oil color "black" when fresh out of the can? Re: dealer did the service, supposedly oil filter changed and fresh Mobil DelVac oil installed. Drove 30 miles (Interstae mostly home) then checked oil level and its sickly sickly black, dirty looking! Is this expected? What are your thoughts? Did I get fresh oil? Is Mobil dirty black??
Appreciate your response(s0.
Wanderer

Wanderer, any new oil will turn black shortly after oil change. Comon in most all of todays modern diesel engins.

I would stick with a oil like Rotella or Delvac and 3000-6000 miles changes.

just bought a new 09 Dmax 2500hd , eventually would like to change to Amsoil for the extended oil life ( have it on my 4runner) ,but checked with local Amsoil dealer, and they said for extended u have to send in a sample ,so that's OK, but How many of u Amsoil users do this ?, and how far are your typical oil changes with sending off samples? we do mainly highway driving with 8,000lb trailer.
Off the subject ,my trade in was a 94 Ford 350 7.3diesel van 200,000 mi we bought new ,not much computer stuff,and real simple. Now I am in a big learning curve with all these abbreviations ie(uoa, cel, id data, PIP, on and on ???) is there a dictionary on site to define all these abbreviations ? or should i post a long list 4 help? great site ,i'm learning from all. thk/u,4 time...gus:confused:

Also would like to put my Company decal on front window up hi on top ,what is this perforated stuff in front of rear view mirror on window,and surrounding front window edges ? Is this a antenna ? will a decal hinder its operation ? thanks again,gus.

I'm using Amsoil, mostly city driving and testing around 8k. Last test was 3.5% fuel dilution, I reset the Oil Life Monitor twice. This usally comes out to about every 9 months on the batch of oil.

I have been using Dello in my '08 LMM. Is that a CJ-5 rated oil?

Just put some Rotella Synthetic 5W-40 in the rig today for the first time. OMG what a freaking mess. I got oil in my eye, mouth, and all over the driveway because the oil flowed much faster than I anticipated after unscrewing the plug. This is 'not' like changing the oil on a car...that's for sure.

The only cool thing about the whole ordeal was that my lift is tall enough so that I don't need to jack up the truck. Other than that...it was a nightmare. Man, I need to figure out a different catch can or some kind of deflector next time I do the oil change. I literally had to take a shower afterwords because I had oil from head to toe. Ruined all my clothes too. I am a rookie 100%! That oil was the blackest, nastiest, stinkiest oil I've ever seen.

No wonder they charge $160 to do this job. My wife was cracking up when she saw me choking on the oil that splashed into my mouth. I should have taken a picture. hahahhaha

You just need to get a "Fumoto" drain valve with a nipple adapter for a hose. Then you just hook the hose up and turn the valve and the oil drains right into whatever container you would like. This also works great for taking used oil samples form your truck for analysis. This way you don't have to drain all the oil to get a sample. NO MORE BIG MESS!!!!!!

You just need to get a "Fumoto" drain valve with a nipple adapter for a hose. Then you just hook the hose up and turn the valve and the oil drains right into whatever container you would like. This also works great for taking used oil samples form your truck for analysis. This way you don't have to drain all the oil to get a sample. NO MORE BIG MESS!!!!!!

This is great for avoiding unbolting the skid plate and swinging it forward.

just bought a new 09 Dmax 2500hd , eventually would like to change to Amsoil for the extended oil life ( have it on my 4runner) ,but checked with local Amsoil dealer, and they said for extended u have to send in a sample ,so that's OK, but How many of u Amsoil users do this ?, and how far are your typical oil changes with sending off samples? we do mainly highway driving with 8,000lb trailer.
Off the subject ,my trade in was a 94 Ford 350 7.3diesel van 200,000 mi we bought new ,not much computer stuff,and real simple. Now I am in a big learning curve with all these abbreviations ie(uoa, cel, id data, PIP, on and on ???) is there a dictionary on site to define all these abbreviations ? or should i post a long list 4 help? great site ,i'm learning from all. thk/u,4 time...gus:confused:

The few that I have heard of have the LMMs have been doing mixed driving and been running around 12,000 before the change (I believe they said they were around 4% fuel). If I can do anything to help, let me know!!!!

Hmmmm...I don't need to remove the skid plate. Maybe because I have a lift. IDK

:confused:

This is great for avoiding unbolting the skid plate and swinging it forward.

The few that I have heard of have the LMMs have been doing mixed driving and been running around 12,000 before the change (I believe they said they were around 4% fuel). If I can do anything to help, let me know!!!!

Hello; 1) What are you refering to when you say 4% fuel? .
2)Is this the dilution in crank case oil from oil sample test?
3)where in the engine system does the diesel fuel get injected in Regen mode?
thanks, LMM 4 dummies..:confused:

The Fuel that they are refering to is fuel diluton in the crackcase oil. This happens due to the fact that when the truck goes into regen it injects fuel into the cylinder during the exhaust, (or post cumbustion) cycle. This fuel is then sent down the exhaust to burn out the soot in the DPF. When this happens a small amount of the fuel runs down the cylinders walls past the rings and gets in the crankcase oil.

The amount that gets in the crankcase is more if the regen process happens in stop and go traffic. THis is because if the engine is running at highway speeds and temps the post combustion fuel that is injected will vaporize very quickly and the incrased air flow of the engine running at highway speed will carry more of the fuel charge down the exhaust quicker. These factors tend to cut down on the amount of fuel that migrated down past the rings and therefore decreases the amount of fuel dilution.

1) Is this fuel injected thru the injectors or a seperate injector?
2) what is the max % fuel dilution to promt oil change?
thk/u.gus.

Does the Regen idiot Light come on every time?

Lamb,

I am sorry to hear about ruining the clothes. Diesel oil is nasty stuff and will make work clothes out of anything it comes in contact with. This is the reason I bought my first Fumoto Oil Drain vlave and then became a distributor.

To make sure you never have this problem again order the Fumoto Oil Drain Valve (http://madjacksynthetics.com/Fumoto-Oil-Drain-Valves/Fumoto-Valves/prod_2.html) and never have this problem again. You will need the F106 and order with the nipple and add a 2' piece of tubing and you will be able to run the tubing into your catch pan and always control the oil. If you need a longer tubing because of the lift you use then use the drop down menu at the bottom of the page and order a longer tubing. No mess ever again! It even makes taking oil samples easy if you do that an

d best of all you can take the sample with the engine running which is the most accurate sample.

Well, thank you for passing this information along. I'll order one of these valves before my next oil change.

Lamb,

I am sorry to hear about ruining the clothes. Diesel oil is nasty stuff and will make work clothes out of anything it comes in contact with. This is the reason I bought my first Fumoto Oil Drain vlave and then became a distributor.

To make sure you never have this problem again order the Fumoto Oil Drain Valve (http://madjacksynthetics.com/Fumoto-Oil-Drain-Valves/Fumoto-Valves/prod_2.html) and never have this problem again. You will need the F106 and order with the nipple and add a 2' piece of tubing and you will be able to run the tubing into your catch pan and always control the oil. If you need a longer tubing because of the lift you use then use the drop down menu at the bottom of the page and order a longer tubing. No mess ever again! It even makes taking oil samples easy if you do that an

d best of all you can take the sample with the engine running which is the most accurate sample.

I hate to say I'm glad somebody else got blasted with dirty oil because I took a direct shot to the head and face. I had so much oil on my head I thought the EPA was going to show up and cut my hair. Oh it's funny now but I wasn't laughing at the moment of impact!

Yes, there is a serious head of pressure coming out of that motor and the oil seems to be much thinner that gasser motor oil. My septic system has a major oil slick in it right now. :D

I hate to say I'm glad somebody else got blasted with dirty oil because I took a direct shot to the head and face. I had so much oil on my head I thought the EPA was going to show up and cut my hair. Oh it's funny now but I wasn't laughing at the moment of impact!

That Fumoto valve was the best investment ever. No more oil all over the place! Take off the safety clip, rotate the lever, out comes the oil, exactly where you want it. I ordered mine from Dane (Dirtbikindad393), will be ordering two more later this summer for my Father in law's and my brother's LMM's, since I do their upkeep on the trucks. Chris

I would find a new dealer.

Moved to Maintenance & Fluids.

I have been running Mobil Delvac ESP 5W-40. The ESP is designed for modern emission systems — though it is very similar to the Mobil TD. http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENCVLMOMobil_Delvac_1_ESP_5W-40.asp http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1_Turbo_Diesel_Truck_5W-40.asp

Hello; 1) What are you refering to when you say 4% fuel? .
2)Is this the dilution in crank case oil from oil sample test?
3)where in the engine system does the diesel fuel get injected in Regen mode?
thanks, LMM 4 dummies..:confused:

The Fuel that they are refering to is fuel diluton in the crackcase oil. This happens due to the fact that when the truck goes into regen it injects fuel into the cylinder during the exhaust, (or post cumbustion) cycle. This fuel is then sent down the exhaust to burn out the soot in the DPF. When this happens a small amount of the fuel runs down the cylinders walls past the rings and gets in the crankcase oil.

The amount that gets in the crankcase is more if the regen process happens in stop and go traffic. THis is because if the engine is running at highway speeds and temps the post combustion fuel that is injected will vaporize very quickly and the incrased air flow of the engine running at highway speed will carry more of the fuel charge down the exhaust quicker. These factors tend to cut down on the amount of fuel that migrated down past the rings and therefore decreases the amount of fuel dilution.

Sorry for the delay- he pretty much covered it.

1) Is this fuel injected thru the injectors or a seperate injector?
2) what is the max % fuel dilution to promt oil change?
thk/u.gus.

It is through the regular injectors, and 5% is the max recommended....

It get's up to high numbers of dilution , which is acceptable.....but not good. This is why the 2011 LML engine has it's regen via a different injector post turbo. GM knows regens are not good for the engine.

Just put some Rotella Synthetic 5W-40 in the rig today for the first time. OMG what a freaking mess. I got oil in my eye, mouth, and all over the driveway because the oil flowed much faster than I anticipated after unscrewing the plug. This is 'not' like changing the oil on a car...that's for sure.

The only cool thing about the whole ordeal was that my lift is tall enough so that I don't need to jack up the truck. Other than that...it was a nightmare. Man, I need to figure out a different catch can or some kind of deflector next time I do the oil change. I literally had to take a shower afterwords because I had oil from head to toe. Ruined all my clothes too. I am a rookie 100%! That oil was the blackest, nastiest, stinkiest oil I've ever seen.

No wonder they charge $160 to do this job. My wife was cracking up when she saw me choking on the oil that splashed into my mouth. I should have taken a picture. hahahhaha

I hate to say I'm glad somebody else got blasted with dirty oil because I took a direct shot to the head and face. I had so much oil on my head I thought the EPA was going to show up and cut my hair. Oh it's funny now but I wasn't laughing at the moment of impact!
Thats funny! I thought I was the only person that got blasted in the face and ear. I even drove it before hand in order to get the oil hot. :eek: I guess I am in good company. :D Although, I did not get any on my clothes. :coolnana:

Yep....I had hot oil burning the mess out of my eye and neck and I dropped the plug in my catch can that blocked the hole and overflowed oil onto my drive. It was so armature. I'm just glad none of my neighbors seen me.

I put a Delco PF2232 on the truck and dumped that Fram. It was the best I could find. I'll have to get on line and order a better filter the next time around.

Don't forget to grease the 11 zerks - and change out the Allison spin-on at first service as specified in the manual....


;)

Does the Regen idiot Light come on every time?


There is no regen indicator - Get an Edge Insight engine monitor to see what going on.......

;)

Oh my. I saw that Alison Filter. Shoot....should that have been serviced by 10k miles? Will I need to buy addition Transmission Fluid when changing this filter?

I only found 4 zerts (Upper & Lower Ball Joints) Where are the rest of these zerts?

Don't forget to grease the 11 zerks - and change out the Allison spin-on at first service as specified in the manual....


;)




There is no regen indicator - Get an Edge Insight engine monitor to see what going on.......

;)

The filter should have been changed at 10,000, IIRC. You will not lose much fluid when you change it, although it will seem like a ton. I just bought a quart of syn to add to top off the tranny fluid. I got mine on ebay for $12.

ok thanks....

11 Grease Zerks

http://i885.photobucket.com/albums/ac54/Rader2146/Misc/zerks_1.jpg
http://i885.photobucket.com/albums/ac54/Rader2146/Misc/zerks_2.jpg
http://i885.photobucket.com/albums/ac54/Rader2146/Misc/zerks_3.jpg
http://i885.photobucket.com/albums/ac54/Rader2146/Misc/zerks_4.jpg
http://i885.photobucket.com/albums/ac54/Rader2146/Misc/zerks_5.jpg

Ok thanks....I'll have to get a different grease gun to hit those inner zerks. Thanks for the photos!

11 Grease Zerks

http://i885.photobucket.com/albums/ac54/Rader2146/Misc/zerks_1.jpg
http://i885.photobucket.com/albums/ac54/Rader2146/Misc/zerks_2.jpg
http://i885.photobucket.com/albums/ac54/Rader2146/Misc/zerks_3.jpg
http://i885.photobucket.com/albums/ac54/Rader2146/Misc/zerks_4.jpg
http://i885.photobucket.com/albums/ac54/Rader2146/Misc/zerks_5.jpg

$23 at Napa for their WIX. So the manual said change oil & filter every 25k if the truck is used for heavy towing and every 50k for normal driving. I changed the filter per your advice and topped the fluid off. Probably do it again at 50k with the fluid change.

ote=Brad92;3860911]The filter should have been changed at 10,000, IIRC. You will not lose much fluid when you change it, although it will seem like a ton. I just bought a quart of syn to add to top off the tranny fluid. I got mine on ebay for $12.[/quote]

$23 at Napa for their WIX. So the manual said change oil & filter every 25k if the truck is used for heavy towing and every 50k for normal driving. I changed the filter per your advice and topped the fluid off. Probably do it again at 50k with the fluid change.

23.00 for the external spin on filter?

$23 Yep! Seems like it a rip off.

Most alli filters are around 9-10 bucks for the red alli filters....

$23 Yep! Seems like it a rip off.

Next time you need one or two or maybe all three filters for maint.........

Allison Spin-On (http://madjacksynthetics.com/Allison-1000-Transmission/Deep-Trans-Pans-Filter-Lock-Filters-and-Fluids/Allison-Spin-On-Oil-Filters/prod_13.html)

Dmax Filter Maint Package (http://madjacksynthetics.com/Chevy/GMC-Duramax/Chevy/GMC-Duramax-Maintenance-Items/Duramax-Filter-Maintenance-Package/prod_70.html) :thumb: :thumb:

been running Amsoil in miine for almost 300k miles, no issues

You know....I believe that Amsoil may be a good product but I think it is a rather new product compared to Shell or Mobile. I've used Mobile 1 in all gasser cars for the last 15 years and Shell Rotella Synthetic in the old Ford 7.3l so I'm using it in the new GMC. Plus, I can get it cheap at Walmart. Amsoil seems to have an interesting Marketing strategy in that 'anyone' can get the product for distribution which makes it more available. IDK I thought about switching over to Amsoil in my Honda 4-Strokes because I have a hard time getting Synthetic oil for the thumpers. I run synthetic in the motor and Golden Spectro in the trans and believe me....it is hard to find freaking oil in Spokane. I'm on the third Synthetic in my bikes. I was running some Swiss stuff, then Mobile1, now Honda. It is rediculous...maybe I'll become an Amsoil Dealer? hahahha

Well I did my first Oil change and Fuel filter change today. And I feel some of the pain expressed above.

A) Yes Holy $hit that oil comes out fast, oil came out splashed off the top of my drainpan and onto floor before I got it moved
B) Skid plate does make a mess of things
C) Fuel filter is not that bad but no wrench I had fit in there, ended up with a piece of sand paper and my own two hands to get the old one out.

Fumoto Valve in hand and ready installed so next time it's easy
I used Rotella T3 & Hasting Filters.

I still have to change the Alli filter, truck now has 16K on it

Similar experience here. I changed every fluid in the truck this weekend for the first time. It created an environmental disaster that would put the gulf oil spill to shame.

Also discovered the t-case only had about 1/2 quart of burnt, black fluid in it. :(

I love my Fumoto valves!

You know....I believe that Amsoil may be a good product but I think it is a rather new product compared to Shell or Mobile. I've used Mobile 1 in all gasser cars for the last 15 years and Shell Rotella Synthetic in the old Ford 7.3l so I'm using it in the new GMC. Plus, I can get it cheap at Walmart. Amsoil seems to have an interesting Marketing strategy in that 'anyone' can get the product for distribution which makes it more available. IDK I thought about switching over to Amsoil in my Honda 4-Strokes because I have a hard time getting Synthetic oil for the thumpers. I run synthetic in the motor and Golden Spectro in the trans and believe me....it is hard to find freaking oil in Spokane. I'm on the third Synthetic in my bikes. I was running some Swiss stuff, then Mobile1, now Honda. It is rediculous...maybe I'll become an Amsoil Dealer? hahahha

I don't consider Amsoil a new product compared to the others since Amsoil was the first to offer Synthetics for general public use in 1972, 38 years ago which would also make it before Mobile & Shell and all the others .

Your thoughts on the 4 stoke oil are spot on as I have so many customers using it in the dirt bikes as well as street bikes. One good thing (for me) is that once I decuided to use synthetics in my vehicles by using Amsoil I have one stop shopping. They make a synthetic specifically formulated for almost every application you can think of. By buying at wholesale and using the products to their full extend you really do save money even after paying shipping charges. :thumb: