4Fielders
07-04-2005, 12:10 AM
Let me start by saying I'm not a tech or master mechanic, I probably don't even qualifty as a shade tree mechanic. Now that the disclaimer is out of the way, I wanted to share how I wired my homelink transmitter to avoid having to turn on the light in the console to get the transmitter to work.
I have an 04 LLY CC and was disappointed I couldn't get the homelink transmitter I was used to in our Suburban. After spending the better part of a year monitoring ebay, I finally found a tan overhead console with homelink that didn't have the sunroof button. It was from an 01 K2500 Suburban. I got it for about $85 after shipping. It was pretty easy to remove the AC controls and swap out the console compartment from my current truck. I was pleasantly surprised when the electrical connection matched perfectly with the existing wiring.
Although the unit worked fine, I quickly discovered I had to turn on one of the spotlights in the console in order to get the homelink to power up. Searching posts here told me this was a common problem because of the battery run down protection in the computer, and that the only way around it was to run a new power wire to the console.
Not having the foggiest notion how to hook up a new power wire, nor knowing how to get it up the A pillar and across the headliner, I started exploring other possibilities. I discovered that the harness that powers my console is labeled "HDLNR 1 12-WAY" on the electrical panel under the dash. I removed the harness and saw 12 male connectors, 3 rows of 4 pins. So you can follow me, I'll number them 1 - 12 going left-right and top-bottom. I tested each pin and discovered only pins 8 and 9 were carrying 12 volt power. When I looked at the harness, the orange power wire to the console was in slot 9, 8 was empty.
Next I did a little experiment. I ran a wire through the empty 8 slot on the receptacle so it contacted the #8 pin. I then reconnected the harness. I hooked the other end of the loose wire up to my test light and turned on the light in the console. I waited 20-30 minutes until the computer turned off the power to the console light. I looked at my test light and it was STILL ON! I had found an unused power line that was not controlled by the run-down protection circuit. Next I removed the receptacle, took out my test wire, and carefully moved the orange power wire from the "9" slot to the "8" slot and replaced the receptacle. Problem solved.
Now my homelink works whenever I want it to without having to turn on a light. My next project is to find the circuit that is controlled by the dimmer switch so I can get the buttons to light up at night when the lights are on. Hope this helps somebody!
I have an 04 LLY CC and was disappointed I couldn't get the homelink transmitter I was used to in our Suburban. After spending the better part of a year monitoring ebay, I finally found a tan overhead console with homelink that didn't have the sunroof button. It was from an 01 K2500 Suburban. I got it for about $85 after shipping. It was pretty easy to remove the AC controls and swap out the console compartment from my current truck. I was pleasantly surprised when the electrical connection matched perfectly with the existing wiring.
Although the unit worked fine, I quickly discovered I had to turn on one of the spotlights in the console in order to get the homelink to power up. Searching posts here told me this was a common problem because of the battery run down protection in the computer, and that the only way around it was to run a new power wire to the console.
Not having the foggiest notion how to hook up a new power wire, nor knowing how to get it up the A pillar and across the headliner, I started exploring other possibilities. I discovered that the harness that powers my console is labeled "HDLNR 1 12-WAY" on the electrical panel under the dash. I removed the harness and saw 12 male connectors, 3 rows of 4 pins. So you can follow me, I'll number them 1 - 12 going left-right and top-bottom. I tested each pin and discovered only pins 8 and 9 were carrying 12 volt power. When I looked at the harness, the orange power wire to the console was in slot 9, 8 was empty.
Next I did a little experiment. I ran a wire through the empty 8 slot on the receptacle so it contacted the #8 pin. I then reconnected the harness. I hooked the other end of the loose wire up to my test light and turned on the light in the console. I waited 20-30 minutes until the computer turned off the power to the console light. I looked at my test light and it was STILL ON! I had found an unused power line that was not controlled by the run-down protection circuit. Next I removed the receptacle, took out my test wire, and carefully moved the orange power wire from the "9" slot to the "8" slot and replaced the receptacle. Problem solved.
Now my homelink works whenever I want it to without having to turn on a light. My next project is to find the circuit that is controlled by the dimmer switch so I can get the buttons to light up at night when the lights are on. Hope this helps somebody!