Anyone installed on of JK's Lift Pump Control Harnesses?

In the process of installing exhaust the other day I removed to inner fenderwell. In doing so I had to disconnect the battery. Once back together, I went to take it for a run. When I turned the key, the glow controller only ran for a second or two - not a full cycle - and I heard the glow relay pop. Likewise I heard at least one other relay pop - possibly lift pump relay. This sequence repeated itself a couple of times. When all was said and done, the truck is now hard starting - again. I can feel the LP running when the truck is running, but do not hear any chatter or vibration when the key is first turned to the run position, as I used too. Previously - about two weeks ago I replaced the OPS and solved the hard start (cold) problem.

What are the chance that I have another failed OPS? Will JK's harness help resolve this type of issue? I do like the idea of having the lift pump run in a 'prime' mode like a normal EFI gasser does, and the ability to prime via a one-shot button after a fuel filter change.

I replaced the OPS switch the day I bought the truck I have now, it lasted about 2 weeks.

I'm sure JK sells a nice, easy to install kit, but if you have much of any electrical know how and a soldering iron, you can do the same thing nearly for free.

All you need is to run a single hot wire from a circuit on the fuse panel that is hot with the key ON. Cut the orange wire off the lift pump and hook the new wire up to it and BAM, your in business, your supply pump will run any time the key is ON.

So what was the reason GM ran it thru a OPS??

It's a safty feature to cut fuel when oil pressure is 0 psi.

I replaced the OPS switch the day I bought the truck I have now, it lasted about 2 weeks.

I'm sure JK sells a nice, easy to install kit, but if you have much of any electrical know how and a soldering iron, you can do the same thing nearly for free.

All you need is to run a single hot wire from a circuit on the fuse panel that is hot with the key ON. Cut the orange wire off the lift pump and hook the new wire up to it and BAM, your in business, your supply pump will run any time the key is ON.

Or go 1 step further install a relay controlled by the OPS, and feed the Lift pump thru a high current relay, that way OPS is only lightly loaded by the relay control coil, and still have the safety feature no oil/engine run, no lift pressure to fuel a fire in event of crash.

If you do the cut/splice thing, be sure to use a sealed relay. I just hate cutting/splicing the OE harness.

Actually, as Tim mentioned you could easily wire the relay primary to the weatherpack that feeds the pump so the GM OPS is only carries the relay load.

My control module does more in that it has a prime as well as manual activate feature so that you can bleed the filter. I didn't like the idea of a control board and a relay (too clunky looking) so we put it all on one board...