Hi Guys,

I am thinking about getting one of the '97 cooling mod kits, including the crossover manifold, dual thermostats, HO water pump, and HD clutch and fan. Has anyone documented doing this mod, and how difficult is it to do? How much time should I allocate for this?

Sincerely,

Rob :)

Hi Guys,

I am thinking about getting one of the '97 cooling mod kits, including the crossover manifold, dual thermostats, HO water pump, and HD clutch and fan. Has anyone documented doing this mod, and how difficult is it to do? How much time should I allocate for this?

Sincerely,

Rob :)

Not hard, somewhat time consuming. Even with moderate mechanical skills, if you started on a Friday eve, you should easily have it wrapped up by late Sat morning, if not sooner. Hardest part is grinding the 'notch' in the alternator bracket - oh, and getting the lower radiator hose back on :)

I used a hole saw on a drill press to cut the notch out of the bracket.

Getting the manifold crossover to sit flat on the heads was the hardest part for me. That included cutting the notch out of the Idler mount tower. I used a die grinder and just cut /ground out the materials I needed to remove.The fuel return lines was a bit of a chore to get them out of the way and mount the stat housing. I did mine last week and towed with it yesterday for 200 miles and Loved every bit of it with a cooler temp. ALSO I haven't done the water pump or fan/clutch yet.

Not to hard, about a day. Just got home for pulling about 7,000lbs (trailer and tractor) for a buddy. temps stayed about 185* pulling in drive, long flat roads went to overdrive temps 180*. By the way i hardly ever pull that much. 97 cooling worth the money, make the time to do it and you'll be glad you did.

Hey 94blazer Do you have the complete mod done Water pump and everything

One thing I learned you have to pull the timeing case cover to get the two top bolts in the water pump. They're not through studs and the heads are on the inside.

Bowtie yes i did everything, HO water pump, cross-over, dual 180 stats, SD 9 blade fan / with cluch. Hey look I'm a Diesel Fanatic!

I think someone may have asked this as part of another thread, but I'll be d*mn*d if I can find it - where did you guys with 6.5s that have the fuel drain on the drivers side of the t-stat housing relocate it to after the 97 upgrades? Likewsie, how hard is to get to the heater core to replace the hose that runs to the cross-over ? I can see now that it ain't gonna work - a bit short and definitely not at the right angle. Gonna go with nipple/barbed outlet in the crossover and a hose all the way to the heater core.

Another dumb question - or two. Do the O-ring gaskets for the t-stats go above (radiator side) or below (engine side) of the t-stat?

For those that have eliminated the 'quick connect' coming out of the cross-over and used regular radiator hose all the way to the heater core and a nipple/barb connector, how in the Censored do you get the hose off the heater core? That's one tight SOB and of course the spring type clamps don't make life any easier. Is it 'safe' to just cut the hose just before it joins the aluminum (?) tube and splice? I don't like the thought of cutting the metal tube short of the quick connect and splicing there with no hump or ridge on the metal tube. Seems like a sure bet that it would leak at a minimum, or possible just come off with pressure.

It's the minor details that are keeping me from wrapping this project up. Thank God for the Jetta :)

I think someone may have asked this as part of another thread, but I'll be d*mn*d if I can find it - where did you guys with 6.5s that have the fuel drain on the drivers side of the t-stat housing relocate it to after the 97 upgrades? Likewsie, how hard is to get to the heater core to replace the hose that runs to the cross-over ? I can see now that it ain't gonna work - a bit short and definitely not at the right angle. Gonna go with nipple/barbed outlet in the crossover and a hose all the way to the heater core.


The drain "Tee" now mounts on that boss cast into the front of the cross-over tube. I had to undo the hose from the filter, and re-route it on the passeger side of the IP.

The heater tube is indeed at a goofy angle. I put a 'minor' bend in it to match, and gave up all hope of using the studs on the intake to hold it in place,

Tim

The drain "Tee" now mounts on that boss cast into the front of the cross-over tube. I had to undo the hose from the filter, and re-route it on the passeger side of the IP.

The heater tube is indeed at a goofy angle. I put a 'minor' bend in it to match, and gave up all hope of using the studs on the intake to hold it in place,

Tim

I went the brass hose barb from the hardware store cost $1.79 and a short chunk of hose clamped on the tube and barb.

I documented it with photos. Go to www.webshots.com, then do a photo search. Search the name damork - it will bring you right to my photos of the timing gear and water pump install. I've been meaning to formalize it a bit more in a proper document but this is a start.

Also - if looking for the best bottom line price - try www.teamchev.com. So far I haven't found anyone beating their DELIVERED price. Ask for Gale if you call.