Here is what I currently have:

1995 2wd Extend Cab 6' bed 1500 truck with a 4.3L V6 and a NV3500 5sp manual. 160,000 Miles I think the rear axle is a 3.08 ratio.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y191/Ggerg1186/Truck/DSCF2572.jpg

The 4.3 is starting to get weak, and it is backfiring when I engine brake down hills. Blew up the muffler last week, probably just bad spark plug wires, but I am looking around to replace the motor. I called my Uncle who has about 6 of the Detroit Diesel 6.2 and 6.5 blocks at his house. He has been running these engines since they came out in 82. He said I could have an engine and everything I need to swap the engine short of the radiator for $100.

One particular engine he said is a 1982 6.2L naturally aspirated and he says it has the "big valve heads". (I asked him to take pictures of all of the casting numbers, I should have these in a few days) He will include the starter, exhaust manifolds, water pump, engine mounts, harmonic balancer, and the brackets for the AC and Alternator.

I plan to use a 1995 6.5L Turbo radiator from O'Reillys. (Father in law works there, so I get a discount)

I would like to order a flywheel (I want to keep the manual trans) for the engine as all of the available engines have flex-plates. I plan to order the 1982 6.2L flywheel for a 1/2 ton truck. (to match the 1982 6.2 engine)

I plan to keep my current NV3500 transmission. If it grenades, I will replace it with a NV4500 or possibly a 5600. I don't think this is an issue, as wiki says the NV3500 is rated for 300lb-ft of torque. Wiki also says the 6.2NA is rated at about 255lb-ft. So I plan to purchase a 12" clutch and pressure plate for a 1999 5.7L (gas) engine. 1999 manual trans gas V8's had a stronger NV3500 trans in them. The input shaft should still be a 1-1/8" 10 spline shaft. Can I just get a 1995 6.2 diesel 12" clutch? Does it have the same spline?

The engine has a vacuum pump installed where a distributor would go on a gas motor, which I plan to use with my current brake booster. Do I need a vacuum canister?

I plan to use a push-button momentary switch on the dash to excite the glow plug relay. On cold days I plan to push the button, count to 8, release, and try to start the truck. I may install an ether kit and a block heater as well. (I live in Eastern IA, were it can be 0F for a week or so in the winter.)

I plan to remove the high pressure fuel pump and sending unit from the gas tank. I will replace this with some type of suction/pick up unit.

Any idea if I can keep my current guage cluster? I would really like to keep the tachometer. How will I hook this up?

I plan to run a 50 micron pre-filter with a water seperator. I plan to run a 6 micron final filter. (I can get a remote mount manifold through work.) I am not sure if I will use an electric lift pump or keep the mechanical pump.

How do I keep my cruise control?

Does this jive with what you guys think I can do? Just looking to keep my fuel economy (I get about 22mpg Hwy / 19mpg country roads now) Anything I am missing?

First off, GET TO IT! I love the idea.

Second. I would definitely loose the brake booster! Go with hydroboost! Otherwise you run the risk of outrunning the vacuum pump.

You can keep the guage cluster, but you will have to get creative with the tachometer. You can buy an alternator that has an output for the tach, but you'll have to do some research about how to tie it in to the existing dash.

Cruise control is a bigger issue! You may be able to get away with getting the cruise control computer from a 93 diesel with a manual trans. I hope your good at making your own wiring harnesses. I actually enjoy it!

Thank's VBB. The more I investigate this project the more I like it. My wife is rolling her eyes at me when I talk about it, but oh well. For about $300 I think I will increase the value of my truck by $900 or more. Not to mention I can probably sell the 4.3L gasser for about $300. (Total cost: a couple of weekends of my time.)

I found out the diesel clutch plates have the 1-1/8" 10 input spline so I can just run the diesel clutch with the NV3500.

Cruise control and tachometer issues aside; I am going for it. I will be mailing my uncle (lives in a different state) a check the first week of May. He will put new head gaskets on the engine and double check everything is kosher. I have to swap a 3.4 V6 and manual trans into my wifes 1991 sunbird convertible and then I am free to work on my own stuff for the summer.

I have read some (optimistic) reports of 32mpg with a truck running the NV3500 and the 3.08 rear axle. I plan to run stock all-weather tires and I like to fill them up to the sidewall rating with air. I think I will hit the 22-25 range, but we shall see.

I do have the future goal to run waste vegatable oil in my truck. Can you tell me about your setup? I assume you run WVO from your handle.

Yes. I did run veggie in the suburban. I sold it about 2 years ago, though. I run biodiesel in my 3 other trucks now.

I had a 2-tank conversion on the burb. I had an in-tank heat-exchanger, a HIH heat exchanger, a flat plate heat exchanger all running engine coolant. I ran 30K miles on veggie in that thing. I've been itching to do a conversion on my 93 for a while now.

Yes. I did run veggie in the suburban. I sold it about 2 years ago, though. I run biodiesel in my 3 other trucks now.

I had a 2-tank conversion on the burb. I had an in-tank heat-exchanger, a HIH heat exchanger, a flat plate heat exchanger all running engine coolant. I ran 30K miles on veggie in that thing. I've been itching to do a conversion on my 93 for a while now.

Considering that the majority of my trips are 18 miles or less, do you think that it would be worth it to run WVO? Seems like I would have to run regular diesel until the coolant has time to heat all that oil up. How long do you run on regular diesel before you can switch to the WVO tank?

Considering that the majority of my trips are 18 miles or less, do you think that it would be worth it to run WVO? Seems like I would have to run regular diesel until the coolant has time to heat all that oil up. How long do you run on regular diesel before you can switch to the WVO tank?
Your switchover times will be dependant upon ambient temps. During the summer here in UT, I could switchover in about 2.5 miles on my 10 mile drive to work, with about a 1/2 mile purge. During the cold parts of the winter, I would have to drive about 15 miles before switchover, and my purges were more like 2 or 3 miles, just to be on the safe side.

So, yes, I'd say it's worth it even with 18 mile trips, provided you live in a place that isn't 20 degrees 8 months out of the year.

a few words of advice, don't use ether in the 6.2L it can bend your connecting rods. also the large valve heads are known to crack, id use small valve heads. Im going to run a 6.5 turbo set up on mine and need to switch to small valve heads because the one is cracked