After examining the positive camber and the resultant wear on the outside of the tire, I have found the PoS previous owner cranked the suspension unevenly. Measuring from top of the (stock or stock like) rim to the fender guard, it is 14" on the passenger side and 13" on the driver side. I am assuming the fender guards (the optional black plastic things that go over the fender edges) are on in the same place on both wheel wells. My truck was an old plow truck, which has since had the plow removed. I guess it is possible the bars were cranked for the extra weight on the front end to make everything neutral in the past, and relieving that weight it the cause of the current lopsidedness. I will be removing the rest of the plow harness in the near future.

My question is this:

-For other people with fenders and that had the stock 225/75R16 tires, what is the measurement you have from rim to fender guard? (I'm not sure if just the passenger side was cranked or if both were, but moreso on the passenger side)

-Is it possible to adjust the torsion amount with "changing keys"--say a sixth of a twist at a time for a hex-head bar? Would this cause a one inch difference, or more, or less?

-How much lift does the suspension arm need to have the bar "unsprung"? I would imagine it has some negative twist energy if it is left hanging...

- Will the rest of the plow harness (the support frame and bumper extensions only--no blade, blade hinge, actuator, plow lights, or pump / electric motor) be of enough weight where removing it later will cause need for another readjustment?

Thanks!

x

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-For other people with fenders and that had the stock 225/75R16 tires, -

Actually the "stock" tires are the 245's. Unfortunately this truck no longer has matching tires, which is something I am trying to correct...

Actually the "stock" tires are the 245's. Unfortunately this truck no longer has matching tires, which is something I am trying to correct...
Hey bud, just fyi, different trucks were available from the dealer with different tire sizes and considered oem, not just dealer equiped. I have customers with 265's, 245's and duallys with 215 or 225(I think thats what they were).:)

After examining the positive camber and the resultant wear on the outside of the tire, I have found the PoS previous owner cranked the suspension unevenly. Measuring from top of the (stock or stock like) rim to the fender guard, it is 14" on the passenger side and 13" on the driver side. I am assuming the fender guards (the optional black plastic things that go over the fender edges) are on in the same place on both wheel wells. My truck was an old plow truck, which has since had the plow removed. I guess it is possible the bars were cranked for the extra weight on the front end to make everything neutral in the past, and relieving that weight it the cause of the current lopsidedness. I will be removing the rest of the plow harness in the near future.

My question is this:

-For other people with fenders and that had the stock 225/75R16 tires, what is the measurement you have from rim to fender guard? (I'm not sure if just the passenger side was cranked or if both were, but moreso on the passenger side)
A I usually recommend taking all of the chassis measurements from a fixed point such as the LCA pivot bolt. This will never vary its location or style and will move proportionally with your adjustments.

-Is it possible to adjust the torsion amount with "changing keys"--say a sixth of a twist at a time for a hex-head bar? Would this cause a one inch difference, or more, or less?
A No 2 trucks will respond to the same amount of bolt adjustment as the next. Different trucks have diff. torque rates on the bars and front end loads...etc. Typically, it takes a few turns to gain an inch in height. There are keys avail. aftermarket called "Suspension MAXX" that allows you to index the center ring and alter the position of the key.

-How much lift does the suspension arm need to have the bar "unsprung"? I would imagine it has some negative twist energy if it is left hanging...
A The bar will not become unsprung as long as the plate that retains the adj screw is in place. You can remove the bolt from the adjuster and the bar will still have preload on it.

- Will the rest of the plow harness (the support frame and bumper extensions only--no blade, blade hinge, actuator, plow lights, or pump / electric motor) be of enough weight where removing it later will cause need for another readjustment?
A Technically, if you have an empty tank of fuel it will change the overall height. So yes, removing anything as significant as what you described will most definitely change the geometery. Maybe not so much to nessesitate an alignment every time, but the static height will rise in response to the removed equipt.

Thanks!

x

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Answers are after each question above