: Don't get scammed by A/C shops
I just replaced:
Compressor
Accumulator
Expansion orafice
Input/Output hose assy.
Freon and PAG150 oil
I spent about 3 hrs R&R parts and flushing out reuseable components. Then another 15 min pressurizing system and looking for leaks with soapy water then 2 hrs vacuuming sytem and checking leakup. 5 min replacing Freon and I have colder air than when I got the truck. I think the clogged expansion orafice was the main culprit of my problems.
My total cost for parts was just under $300.
So now I'll do some math, counting the vacuum time the job took less than 5 1/2 hrs so lets say a pro is worth $75 P/H, thats $375 for labor.
Lets say these are super pro's and worth $150 P/H, thats $750 for labor.
Where are these people comming from with $1500 or more for A/C repairs. I'm sure this isn't the same in all areas and I don't think all A/C repair people are scammers, maybe it's just around my area these shops are taking advantage of the fact that most people don't know enough about A/C systems to do the work themselves, or question a high bill.
All I can say is that now I know how to troubleshoot and fix my own A/C system and it's not complicated for someone thinking about fixing their own.
BornReady6.5 06-29-2005, 01:05 AM I did the same thing. BUT...my A/c sucks. the pressures are good and everything but its like my evaperator is plugged with crap or something. Anyone know how to get to it to see if theres garbage blocking in there?
Anyway, your right. A/C is'nt as hard as it seems. $300 is better than $1500.
Also, just from past experience...do not cut corners, do what MDT did and do a good job, half assin it will cost you more money....That means buy genuine AC Delco too. I havent seen a remanufactured compressor like Four Seasons, etc. hold up worth a crap.
But thats my opinion.
nickleinonen 06-29-2005, 05:16 AM i don't know how it is in the usa, but in canada you need to be licenced to handle referidgents... anyone can repair an A/C system up here, but without the ODP licence they are not "suppose" to discharge/recharge the system... very big fines if you get caught without a licence [up to like $50k].. the licence is cheap and easy to get [like 6 hours class and a test - ±$120cdn cost] i had one but i let it expire.. i don't ever do any A/C work and i didn't want to go and renew the licence [you need to do the class/test over again, then valid for 3 more years]
_MJB_ 06-29-2005, 06:40 AM In the USA a licence is only required to handle ozone depleting refrigerants like R-12 or R-22. Since R-134A is not ozone depleting, no license is required to purchase or handle it, although you still need to have the proper tools, like a reclaimer and vacuum pump to do the work properly. As far as I know the license never expires here in USA. I have had my "Universal" certification for over 10 years now.
knkreb 06-29-2005, 07:08 AM Some states even require a license for 134a too. Dumb, dumb stuff. Why do you need a license to handle it? Do you have to have a license for hairspray?
Another crazy thing I saw just last week is where the local environmental agency regulates the "perk" solvent for dry cleaning machines because it's ozone depleting. Funny that the aerosol can of condensor coil cleaner I used, the first ingredent was "perk." Can't spell perchoethylene too well.
Bravo for you guys who did it right. Pulling a vacuum is a must when changing all those compents. Some people don't and wonder why the compressor grenades on them when they don't do all that.
Jperry 07-05-2005, 12:13 PM I totally agree on doing it yourself. Even with buying the tools you come out ahead on this one job. The Vac pump is around $100.00 the last time I checked, I have been using mine for years now.
quantum mechanic 07-05-2005, 12:32 PM It's the same here, I paid over $1500 three years back to have a few parts put in to make the A/c work, but I wasn't as into fixing it myself then.
kl8ton 07-05-2005, 12:59 PM The vac pump is only 100.00? Can someone post a link to one? Also, besides the vac pump and a set of aC guages and the refrigerant and the oil...is there anything else needed to do A/C the right way? I just bought a can of 134a with a low side pressure gauge and got the compressor working, but it isn't nearly as cool as I would like it to be. In my opinion, I should be able to keep the cab uncomfortably cool. Like riding on a greyhound bus...those things are always freezing!
Jperry 07-05-2005, 01:36 PM I will see what I can find on the vac pump if I can just remember that vendor's name. besides the gauges and vac pump I also have a UV leak detector. its good for checking for leaks with antifreeze also.
Jperry 07-05-2005, 01:43 PM Here is one pump here its $69.95. Its an Robinair which is an name brand AC equipment. http://www.tooldesk.com/products/productDetail.aspx+id+1114 I am sure there are many different pumps and prices out there. On these smaller pumps you may have to leave running longer than the bigger more expensive pumps, however for occasional use they work just fine.
partsguy662 07-05-2005, 01:47 PM MJB - Here in wisconsin, if you don't have a licence, you don't do ac work even on your own vehicle (r12 or r134a doesn't matter)
The stupid thing is, a guy can drive across the border to minnesota and buy all of the stuff he needs....but not here...
95yukon 07-10-2005, 10:23 PM If you can, go to a place that handles junk freezers, coolers, AC units, etc. Many still have good compressors that run off of 110 v and are still usually good. Most will let you take parts, sometimes free or for very little. Find one with charging ports and you can use the suction port as a vacuum pump. I've done it and it works great. Biggest job was finding the old freezer it was mounted on. Gauges connected right to the ports.
Magnus777 07-24-2005, 11:38 PM Harbor Freight has got one for $15.99+shipping. Item # 3952-0VGA. Works at 4.2cfm, though.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=3952
Sometimes they run it on sale for $9.99. What a Bah-gain!
knkreb 07-25-2005, 07:53 AM Best bet is pulling a REAL vacuum. 28" +/- ain't good 'nuff. You need a vacuum that goes down to the measurement of microns, not inches of vacuum. A deep vacuum will mostly insure that you have gotten rid of all moisture in the system. Moisture in a PAG system will spell failure down the road.
Moisture does make it's way through the rubber hoses over time. Believe it or not. I have a sight glass on my system, and it goes from green (dry) to yellow (wet) within a few weeks - even after pulling a deep vacuum. I have about a mile of rubber hose, but it goes to show that it does happen.
The ONLY way to accomplish this is with a real deep vacuum pump. Of course not many have access to these, unless you know someone with one, but they are out there. If you wish to cut corners (which you can do and get away with) that's up to you. But hopefully you won't have to do this job over again in the near future.
You may opt to do whatever work there needs to be done yourself, and take it somewhere and have it evac'ed and recharged. That option may be close economically speaking as compared to buying or purchasing equipment to do it yourself once . . . unless you know someone. . . ;)
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