Hey guys,
I am feeling a little retarded now, I know I've read on here about fuel line repairs / replacement before, but can't seem to find the right key word search, keeps pulling up fuel return rates, (not that that's ever been discussed here).

I have the luxury of living in the land of wintertime white crystal covered roads here in NY. With scoping out what else I need to do while changing my injectors, I noticed that the fuel lines are rotting out at the plastic bracket hangers along the frame rail, and a couple spots are wet with fuel. This is probably why she's taking a long time to start and loosing prime.

I have a nylon fuel line repair kit that should cover the 3/8" return line, but what have you guys done for the 1/2" pressure side feed line from the tank. I did a bunch of searching on the net and called Napa to see if anyone makes a repair kit for 1/2" lines with the quick disconnects, or even aftermarket replacements, but no luck. Do you guys know where I can get a nylon line / quick dissconnect kit for the feed lines from the tank? Can anyone let me know if it is in fact 1/2" or 12mm (they're about the same, but still different). What's the pressure coming out of the tank, thinking it's probably around 20-30 psi? Also, before I take the rubber lines off the fuel filter assembly, are they also 1/2" rubber lines (I'll need to take them off when I replace the injectors and they're getting a little dry rotted, I want to make sure I have replacement hose to put them back together)

My fuel lines are too rusty to just cut out the bad sections and repair using a piece of 1/2" pipe with some compression fittings, so I think I'll have to replace the whole thing. I figure dealer replacements to be about $700 or more to replace all the lines from the tank, around the tank and cooler. WTF, why does GM use such a large line, Ford get's by with 3/8" or 5/16".

What have some of you guys out there done?

Thanks, Larry

Bump

Sorry about the error above, the return line having a pressure, not the feed line (tank to filter line), sorry again.

Ideas about the 1/2" disconnects? Or am I overthinking and should just clamp some rubber line on the male ends of the disconnects? Would anything other than steel collapse over time? With over 20 views, thought someone would have corrected me.

As you said stock Dmax has no pressure on the 1/2 line .. it's a suction system .. you can use some gates 7/16 rubber fuel line and slip over the nipple on the tank sender fitting and secure with a SS clamp. I ran mine like this with no problems - the hose won't collapse. I believe the original Nicktane filter kits also used this method before they switched to a plastic 1/2 QD fitting with a hose barb .. these fittings exist but I've never been able to find a place that sells them .. for the run along the frame rail you could either get some 1/2 steel tube and make your own or transition the gates hose to a heavy reinforced fuel hose with a barbed splice fitting. Kennedy Diesel also has a lift pump install kit that might help .. http://www.kennedydiesel.com/categoryresults3.cfm?Category=3&SubCategory=157&SubCategory2=127

FYI, I used a combination of products to replace the supply and return lines and all is good so far. For the supply, I ended up using 1/2" rubber sections at the tank and above the valve cover slipped over the nipples and used 1/2" copper tubing with compression to barbed fitting along the frame rail. I couldn't find steel or stainless 1/2' anywhere locally. Cost, about $35. For the return line, I used my SUR&R kit with the 3/8" quick connects at the tank and above the valve cover with 1/4" mpt - 3/8" compression at the fuel cooler. Return line was a little more expensive with the kit and all, about $50 for that with lots of pieces left over for the next truck, along with a bunch of zip ties. Holy crap, stretch those lines out in a straight line, got to be at least 25' total of line to go 8' with all the bends. Same as the brake lines, changed every one of them, used 50' of line.

Why did GM sandwich the aluminum fuel cooler body between two steel brackets? The cooler was flopping in the breeze between the front and rear steal grating/housing. Fixed that too by breaking a piece of aluminum to fit over the top and bottom cooler flanges, isolating it from the steel using plastic washers. Cheap fix. Good for another 10 yrs or better, or whenever the frame and cab rusts out on her!

have you done your injectors yet?

have you done your injectors yet?

Nope, not yet. After reading what's been going on with your truck, I'm getting nervous. I've only been able to work on it a couple nights a week and maybe one day a weekend for the past couple weeks, and even then, only a couple to a few hours at a time. I figured I'd get the fuel leak fixed first, then while I had the box off the truck, decided to get all the brake lines done. At least she's still mobile, but I have to change the oil ever 2k or so from the fuel.

Tonight is an A/C compressor in the wife's Breeze.

Work is cramping my lifestyle!!!!!

I will be sure to let everyone know what I find. I can not beleive it is major, just a PIA.