First off its a 83 suburban 6.2 diesel.
I flushed the diesel out of the tank and repalced it with new diesel plus some sea-foam fuel treatment.

The only time it started was when my partner shot either in the throttle body without me noticing. Im afraid its junk, i found cans of either in the back seat so its had some either before.

After it started the motor ran awesome, i noticed some blowback coming through the throttle body out of the top of the engine but still ran awesome. The engine had no knocks and did not seem to smoke bad. I drove it around at operating temp for a few hours.

The next morning i could not get the suburban to start. I thought maybe the engine didnt spin fast enough and put battery chargers on it and still nothing.

I was just wondering if maybe its a glowplug or timing problem? The engine ran awesome after i started it. I think its junk please someone enlighten me. Im pretty sure its lost compression because of the either compressing the connecting rods.

Maybe. If it's not spinning fast enough try a new starter. I'm sure you don't want to buy one but maybe you can borrow one. They won't start unless they're moving a lot faster than any gas engine, like 300-400RPM.

Maybe glows. did you test them?

Blowby is fairly normal, so long as it's not steaming like a kettle.

Try to get it started with a gas soaked rag in front of the air breather. I guess this is a little easier on it than ether. if it starts get it up to temp, then shut it off. If it restarts hot then it's prolly glows. If not definite bigger problems.
Good luck

How do you test the glow plugs?

If the glowplugs aren't working, it will not start cold without starting fluid. All the starting fluid cans you mention sound like they weren't working.

Never tested so I don't really know. Also I'm nothing approaching an electrician. Search the forum tho for glowplug test, it's usually done with a test light, but I guess the best way is to pull the and give them power ( they ground through the thread) and see where they get red. Tip is good, middle not so much. test light should be reasonably accurate. TriosI believe is a sparky and I think he's around somewhere, maybe he can help more

How do you test the glow plugs?
If you have a ohm meter (which checks continuity) you can use it to test the glow plugs while still in the vehicle. First, pull all the wire connectors off the glow plugs. Ground one of your test probes to the engine block, and then touch the other probe to the metal blade on the end of each glow plug. Your meter should not read higher than about 2 ohms. (0 ohms would be complete continuity between block and glow plugs) Any plugs reading higher than that should be replaced.

Or, you can use a test light, which sometimes is just as good. Connect the wire to the positive pole of your battery and touch the probe end to each of the blades on the glow plugs. The test light should glow bright. If it is dim, or doesn't light at all when you touch the end, replace the plug.

There you go

Is the glow plug relay working? Most likely mounted on the drivers fender. Should hear an audible click when the key is turned and the GP light should come on. Does the GP light cycle with the relay? It should cycle about 3 or 4 times. If it only comes on once then goes out, that is an indicator of a GP controller failure. the controller is located behind the air filter, on the top of the block, with a harness connector on top. If the GP light doesn't come on at all, and no "click" when the key is turned, prolly relay.
If it ran awesome then its probably not junk. Just has starting issues. other culprits could be air leaks in the fuel line, causing fuel to drain back to the tank while sitting.
Weak batts.

I did notice the light and clicking for the glowplugs seemed off, they kicked on but immediatly shut off. I priced some new glowplugs and their cheap so im going to start with the glow plugs, It seems to me like the controller is the problem, i read on here about a ford unit you wire in place of the stock one does anyone know the part number or any details about the ford controller? Thanks guys.

Don't know if that is correct about a ford "controller", But if you want to go "manual"(You control the glow plug cycling), then, I've heard that you can do this by using a ford relay.

go into the 6.2 facs and look up glow plug, it tells you how. the 83 stock controller is junk

if worst comes to worst just keep using silicone to get it started, Run it till it won't go anywhere.

Silicone?

less harsh than either

LIke caulking??

no, spary silicone in a can/ like wd40

Ohhh. wow I can be really dumb

Dude, I was thinkin' the same thing!

Yeah i wouldn't admit to that if I were you

i was thinking boob jobs. wd40 works pretty good also.

Throw in some glow plugs. You can't go wrong. The controller might be on its way, but it also can't work right without good plugs. If the controller is shot, then just put in a Ford style relay and wire it to a switch inside. Just as good, maybe even better, since "you" become the controller :)

just when threw the same thing
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=356377
ended up being glow plugs, after i fixed the timing issue
i just figured they {glow plugs} were an comfort item, just to help ease starting
nope required
ch

Oh yeah glowplugs definite needed unless hot engine or hot day. And if the motor has less than great compression it may always need them to start.

his description of the wait light indicates a flakey controller.. whether the plugs work is something else to get tested or replaced. x3 what the last 2 said

personally if i ever have to do this again, id just do the ferd starting solenoid, pull the glow plugs and test them manually. seriously takes like two mins for the front few. also id check my timing:D just in case
good luck to o.p.
ch