I am replacing the brakes and rotors on my 2005 I notice what appears to be lock tight on the bolt for the calibers. I had a very hard time removing the bolt I had to use a breaker bar and impact gun to remove the bolts. My question is do I have to replace the bolts with lock tight I would like put some never seize on the bolt so it can be remove with out the problems that I had. It took over 1.5 hours per wheel to get the caliber loose.

Next time heat up the Caliper mount where the threads are with a torch to melt out the lock-tite. I have never bothered putting more lock-tite on the threads myself and never had an issue but that is up to you. Doesnt hurt to never seize to prevent rust corrosion.

I've used anti seize on my front end parts all the time because if it has to come apart, I don't want to be there all day trying to get one bolt off. That and when they rust together can get expensive if you have to start torching and cutting things.

The fronts with 21mm heads get torqued to 221lb/ft, and a dab of blue Loc-tite is cheap insurance.
The rear axle's 18mm headed bolts get torqued to 150lb/ft, and again, a little blue loc-tite.

personally, I always anti-seize all the bolts, and make sure they are good and tight. In my own opinion the darn things are never going to come out on their own; I dont know why GM specs lock-tite, all that does is make you go insane next time you have to do the brakes......

your mileage may vary though!

ben

personally, I always anti-seize all the bolts, and make sure they are good and tight. In my own opinion the darn things are never going to come out on their own; I dont know why GM specs lock-tite, all that does is make you go insane next time you have to do the brakes......

your mileage may vary though!

ben

READ http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=238828&highlight=bolt+fell+out