I sent my buddy the link and told him to print the directions and carry the tools to do the repair.........well, he didn't listen and now his back pocket is over $750.00 lighter, ouch. He was 10hrs from home when he limped into the dealer. To all those who haven't done the fix..............................:duh:

:eek: :eek: :eek:

I just used a pair of needle nose vice grips, and squeezed the connector at the contact point. Been working for 3K miles now. New harness on order, mine is very corroded.

My sierra quit, towed it home, scanned it the next morning, gave it the ice pick treatment, went 175 miles, quit again, gave it the ice pick again on the side of the freeway in rush hour, (any one looking for a bit of a CLENCH should try it sometime)and has been 100% since. My deepest thanks to Fireboat for his post. My question is how permanent is this fix and should I be ordering the harness from GM. Again, many thanks

Per the guys who have been there and have the T-shirt, the ice pick fix is more permanent than the GM solution; the GM solution has been known to go bad in as little as 2 weeks.

Mine did it twice. The Stealer supposedly fixed it the first time. The 2nd time it went down I had to pay almost $600 in towing. I made the Stealer pay for the towing and labor to do the fix. I just had to pay for the new harness. Since then I've ice picked the #2 & 7 injector connections just to be safe.

I did both (ice pick and harness) before I had a problem in the comfort of my own garage. Knock on wood, I've never had a issue with either.

I didn’t ice pick, but I bent the terminals in the plug a few thousand miles ago but now it’s giving me trouble again. What do you guys think about putting a small drop of solder on the terminals to build them up to the plug will be real tight?

just bought a 05 3500 lt love this truck been reading about the ice pick fix i have no problem with the truck with 142000 would like some info on this procedure is this a pin fit issue any help is greatly appreciated

A more permadent fix would be to clean the contacts with electrically cleaner and q-tip. You have corrosion built up on the contacts. Cleaning these connectors will not disturb your contact bearing surface. The ice-pick will repair it but you may loose some of your contact surface. A good clean and a small amount of silicone on the inside connector (so it slides home) will work for a long time.

Most times it not corrosion that is the problem with the connectors, its the design itself. The harness of these two connectors is orintated differently then the otehr six putting more strain on the connection at the injector. Over time, the vibration from the engine opens up the opening of the pins thus creating an open cct. When you pick-fix them, you're pushing the pins back together.

If this is a corrosion problem with the contacts, why does it manifest on #2 and 7 injectors all the time?

My #2 and #7 have never been a problem but my #8 has been a pain in the butt the last couple months. I get a rough idle situation that ultimately results in an engine light with a P1244 code (#8 injector circuit output problem). I have ice picked at least 3 times and the fix only works a few days now.

Does anyone know if I would get that P1244 code if #2 or #7 went bad or would I get something specific to those cylinders?

I was looking to replace that injector connector and came across two different part numbers on here, which one should I get? The first part is an injector harness PN# 9801-7958 and the other one is PN# 88988963 which is just the connector. Does the connector have any pig tail wires to spice into the original harness? The connector is much cheaper than buying the whole harness.

Its not "normally" a corrosion problem that manifests in the #2 & 7 connectors. There are male and female pins in the connectors themselves. The injector has males pins, the wiring harness from the truck has female connectors. What happens is the female pins in the harness on these two connectors become enlarged overtime and will lose contact with the male pins causing codes and all sorts of other things. When you pick it, you go through the bottom of the connector pushing the pins back together as well as pushing plastic up underneath them helping to make a nice tight connection again.

When my harness quit it showed specificly #2 injector was the problem. I can't remember the actual code number but it said #2 injector.

10-4 thanks for the info I know what I am going to do this weekend

Interesting, Sounds to me like 2 and 7 need a support to hold it in place and straight...something like a dowel pin wired tied on to support the fitting. I'll have to look at mine.

I was gonna say you could just rig up some kind of brace for it.. Is this a good idea to do if you have not had any problems yet?

ok I know the instructions are somewhere here for the ice pick problem...
where are they so I can be prepared if this happens to me on the road..

thanks

133,333 klms no issues ...

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=142114

It is in the Do it yourself , Useful Articles & Product Reviews section.

Thank you...
:D

i had my pig ail go out on me twice wish i had known the ice oick thing at the time first time 35 for a pigtail 300 for labor ripped mea new one second time had a buddy do it for a 100 bucks and 20 mins later and some fin header tube insulation but now i know the ice pick trip and a good scanner

Per the guys who have been there and have the T-shirt, the ice pick fix is more permanent than the GM solution; the GM solution has been known to go bad in as little as 2 weeks.

Did mine on a regular basis, until the motor went boom!! No solution is perfect expect issues with either. One is always cheaper.

Be sure you also inspect the FICM harness at the side of the alternator-- it is tied down with a zip tie-- the sharp corner, where it is tied down, cuts into the wires. Insulate with a piece of heater hose.

I sent my buddy the link and told him to print the directions and carry the tools to do the repair.........well, he didn't listen and now his back pocket is over $750.00 lighter, ouch. He was 10hrs from home when he limped into the dealer. To all those who haven't done the fix..............................:duh:Hey , thanks for your support. Can i get that link to ice pick fix

Hey , thanks for your support. Can i get that link to ice pick fix

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=142114

I'm pretty sure Diesel Place and the Ice Pick trick saved my truck!

Or not...Any one had this problem be intermittent? If so what was happening? Apparently it caused all kinds of other cylinder misfires...

Or not...Any one had this problem be intermittent? If so what was happening? Apparently it caused all kinds of other cylinder misfires...

I recently had a misfire issue.Number #6 low voltage fault, changed the connector at the injector..it came back! Dealership of all places found that the wire for number six was loose and damp (wet) at the FICM end of the wire, they replaced connector there and she's running great...so far...

These electrical issues are total BS in my mind, why would they not go overboard on wiring when they build these motors so tough ?

The engine is Japanese..the logic putting it in was not...seriously..zip tie some wiring to the alternator? that's a great idea.

Maybe it is the #2 injector wiring being wet..we have had a CRAZY amount of wet weather snow etc., ... though when my problem came up it was beautiful out...so I really am at a loss

I really hope it is a simple issue, if not I will just replace the whole #2 wiring and injector and everything related to it and do everything I can to improve my fuel system. I feel like it's time for a lift pump, efi live, fuel pick up kit and whatever else I can do to improve the reliability of my fuel system.

When my pickup warms up it makes a funny noise kind of a hickup? Could it just need the icepick? I dunno but it is driving me crazy and no codes have been thrown. Any ideas?

When my pickup warms up it makes a funny noise kind of a hickup? Could it just need the icepick? I dunno but it is driving me crazy and no codes have been thrown. Any ideas?

Yes, very probable. Do you have anyway to log your balance rates? I found the injector wires on my older engine would only have issues over time and I had to log the balance rates to find out which injecotr had the connector issue.

I am sure that this has been asked before but can someone post how the cylinders are numbered on the LLY's?

I have tried to search for a answer and could not find it.

Thanks

Even are all on the drivers side, Odd on the passenger side. Starting at the front Drivers, 2-4-6-8, Passenger Front, 1-3-5-7

Even are all on the drivers side, Odd on the passenger side. Starting at the front Drivers, 2-4-6-8, Passenger Front, 1-3-5-7

You sure about that? I thought they were like every other engine manufacturer and the odd were on the driver-side........ :confused::confused::confused:

GM does have a fix for the no. 2 and 7 cylinders its a bracket and connector for both sides kit costs around 200 bucks might get it from somewhere else cheaper.
A pitail harness for the injectors is a little over 30 bucks not too bad if anyone is getting tired of the ice pick manuever. And have not had any issues with the new connectors yet. Cylinder location odd on pass. side and even on drivers side.

You sure about that? I thought they were like every other engine manufacturer and the odd were on the driver-side........ :confused::confused::confused:

Nope, different than any other engine. I know I used to work on Gas Engines and would always get this confused.

Injector 8 is on the firewall, drivers side. It is a PITA to work on, #7 is passenger firewall, remove the filter housing and you can get at it, easier than # 8.

GM does have a fix for the no. 2 and 7 cylinders its a bracket and connector for both sides kit costs around 200 bucks might get it from somewhere else cheaper.
A pitail harness for the injectors is a little over 30 bucks not too bad if anyone is getting tired of the ice pick manuever. And have not had any issues with the new connectors yet. Cylinder location odd on pass. side and even on drivers side.

Where do you get the pittail harness from?

Youll have to get it from a GM dealer dont let them tell you its not available cause it is. Give me a little bit and I will get a part number for ya.

Nope, different than any other engine. I know I used to work on Gas Engines and would always get this confused.

Injector 8 is on the firewall, drivers side. It is a PITA to work on, #7 is passenger firewall, remove the filter housing and you can get at it, easier than # 8.

Interesting...... Glad I never had to do any major work to mine, or I would have been all sorts of confused..... :eek:

Interesting...... Glad I never had to do any major work to mine, or I would have been all sorts of confused..... :eek:

According to your signature you have a 6.2L not the 6.6L, totally different from one another.

You could be right about the cylinders on your engine, I don't know much about the 6.2L's.:D

Ice picked mine last year about 40k miles ago. Still no problem.

According to your signature you have a 6.2L not the 6.6L, totally different from one another.

You could be right about the cylinders on your engine, I don't know much about the 6.2L's.:D

I believe Joe had an LLY which he recently sold...

According to your signature you have a 6.2L not the 6.6L, totally different from one another.

You could be right about the cylinders on your engine, I don't know much about the 6.2L's.:D

If you continue reading my sig you'll see that I've actually had 2 LLY's........ Of which I wish I still had the last one :(

I believe Joe had an LLY which he recently sold...

Yep :(

Where do you get the pittail harness from?


GM #88988963

If you continue reading my sig you'll see that I've actually had 2 LLY's........ Of which I wish I still had the last one :(



Yep :(

Sorry, I sometimes have blinders on, should have read further down.

Sorry, I sometimes have blinders on, should have read further down.

No worries :thumb: Happens to all of us at some point :cool:

I had a similar problem with my 2005 HD Diesel. Read this blog and went straight to where they were working on my truck. I guided my friendly mechanic through the procedure and now the truck is back on the road. Saved me $254.48 (dealer price for the Service Kit) and the appreciation from my friend for having taught him a new trick. My appreciation goes to all of you who have posted with your testaments.

I did mine a while ago and a buddy of mines work truck just did it this last week end. I ice picked it for him and he hasn't had a problem since! It truly is the best way to fix it!

Is this an issue with LBZ's..?? Seems most guys are LLY's of varying vintage. I guess what I am really asking is if GM did a change on the harness's for LBZ/LMM and or changed out plug types. 175k miles and only thing I've had was # 4 balance rate was a bit off: +3.1 / -5.1 .. so been throwing the lrg amounts of Power service to it and will check it within the next week to see if that helped...some guys I know personally, swear by that product.

Interesting comment on the alternator / harness tie wrapped to it. Gonna have to look for that.!

update...man that is good Liquere...here I thought after reading this whole thread that i was in the lbz forum.! no wonder all I saw in sigs were 04/05's.!
LOL cheers yall.
Theo

The lbz and lmm dont seem to have this problem only the llys. The connector is different on the lbz compared to the lly different design.

My #8 injector connector have been giving me trouble off and on now for a couple months. It kept throwing codes P1244 and P0308. P1244 is #8 output circuit problem and P0308 is a #8 misfire.

I ice picked several times and each time it worked for a while then the rough idle would reoccur. I decided to buy the pigtail connector and splice in the new connector. I put the new connector in today but after a short time got the codes again. I was thinking maybe the problem is somewhere in the #8 wire but when I ice pick #8 the problem would go away for a short time. Has anyone had issues with the "new" connectors? The new connector is identical so it wouldn't surprise me but I just didn't think the problem would occur right from the start. I guess I will just have to ice pick the new connector and see what happens unless anyone else has any ideas.

The harness by the alternator is fine and I didn install the rubber hose under it to prevent any issues.

Thanks for all the help.

I sent my buddy the link and told him to print the directions and carry the tools to do the repair.........well, he didn't listen and now his back pocket is over $750.00 lighter, ouch. He was 10hrs from home when he limped into the dealer. To all those who haven't done the fix..............................:duh:
I need the fix NOW. Broke down in South Carolina at CMP! Somebody send me the darn link...thought it would be on this thread...not.

Here ya go http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=142114

Whata is CMP in South Carolina?

Whata is CMP in South Carolina?
CMP is "Carolina Motorsports Park"

I almost never get on this forum because I'm just too busy with life and racing my Corvettes. But, having a duramax diesel tow vehicle, I need info from time to time. Thank goodness for this Forum and all of you that use it regularly. I kept searching the forum the other night (feverishly) until I found the link to the Ice Pick Fix. Thank goodness for the pictures and everything. I had the truck running perfectly in 15 minutes (5 minutes to do the job, then 10 minutes of cleaning my hands...truck has 100K miles of grime on the engine...need to clean that). The alternative was getting towed to a dealer (the entire rig) and waiting until Monday for the GM fix which I had just been through back in January. OnStar helped because I called them asking if they had codes relating to the #2 injector...been through this before, can you tell? They confirmed the problem and I looked for a diesel mechanic at the track as there was over 200 racers present as they were passing out the awards for the 24 Hours of Lemons race we were competing in. All of them were worthless. I told them OnStar said it was the injector and that I knew it was the harness. One genius disconnected both batteries to reset the computer. I told them thanks anyway.
My crew and teammates were all standing around, desperate to get started on the 10 hour journey back home. That's when I got my laptop and wireless modem out and jumped on this forum...I knew I'd find something. The entire team was impressed as hell that we got the truck on the road with such an easy fix.
You guys are the best!

My #8 injector connector have been giving me trouble off and on now for a couple months. It kept throwing codes P1244 and P0308. P1244 is #8 output circuit problem and P0308 is a #8 misfire.

I ice picked several times and each time it worked for a while then the rough idle would reoccur. I decided to buy the pigtail connector and splice in the new connector. I put the new connector in today but after a short time got the codes again. I was thinking maybe the problem is somewhere in the #8 wire but when I ice pick #8 the problem would go away for a short time. Has anyone had issues with the "new" connectors? The new connector is identical so it wouldn't surprise me but I just didn't think the problem would occur right from the start. I guess I will just have to ice pick the new connector and see what happens unless anyone else has any ideas.

The harness by the alternator is fine and I didn install the rubber hose under it to prevent any issues.

Thanks for all the help.

It maybe the connector on top of the injector, not just the electrical plug. Over time with vibration could wear grooves into the pins on top of the injector or the top injector pins are really dirty.

Well..good info here. As for LBZ's not having the issue...think again.

P2149 copl of times and then with a P0207. guess what...#7 injector. I just started a new thread on what i have done to date. But some of your replies are very helpfull Rebel...good Ab guy..!! Just how the hell do ya get at the receptacle on # 7 to possibly clean that out.?? Cause I do so want to do that...could be my issue.

I also want to know if the harness for # 7 is also tied off at the alternator...and where the hell is the FICM located..?? with a pic if anyone has one..??

muchos gracias..

Theo

FICM on the LLY is mounted on the passenger side of the motor next to the alternator and says ISUZU on it. I do not know where it is on the LBZ, but that is where I would start. IIRC, they have stopped putting FICM on the motors, or changed their location.

Also on the LLY the FICM is fuel cooled. Try tracing the fuel lines.

Well..good info here. As for LBZ's not having the issue...think again.

P2149 copl of times and then with a P0207. guess what...#7 injector. I just started a new thread on what i have done to date. But some of your replies are very helpfull Rebel...good Ab guy..!! Just how the hell do ya get at the receptacle on # 7 to possibly clean that out.?? Cause I do so want to do that...could be my issue.

I also want to know if the harness for # 7 is also tied off at the alternator...and where the hell is the FICM located..?? with a pic if anyone has one..??

muchos gracias..

Theo

Easiest way is to pull the filter housing, I think 3 screws and flop it on top the engine and remove the fender well plastic cover. You will have complete access to #7. Easiest enough to clean. If you have the grooves plan on doing this several times. I did this with my old engine a lot until she blew-up.