today i changed my wheel hub on the drivers side noticed the rotor was bad on the inside so i replaced it along w the pads now I notice some brake smoke when i stop. I forgot to use brake cleaner on the rotors would this cause this or is there another problem any help would be great

as long as their not dragin id say its just smokin the grease off

as long as their not dragin id say its just smokin the grease off


x2 keep on trucking

You probably had to beat the pads in. The pads must be so damned loose as to fall out, and the slide hardware must "glide" in the bore.
Post #7 http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=146597&highlight=another+soft+brake

And post #8 nails what you started with.

BTW, do all 4 corners, and be sure to use the proper lube. If a front was bad, the rears will be worse.

Having tried every variation of grease and lube out there, this is the only one that works. http://www.crcindustries.com/catalog/images/Greases/SL3303.jpg
Every other lubricant either doesn't stop corrosion (GMs grease included with the pads, and used new) or deteriorates the rubber components to the point of becoming adhesive. Anti-sieze is the absolute worst product to use with rubber to metal contact.

And, after reading posts #7&8, think back to how rusty the slide bolts were, how big of a hammer and punch you had to use to drop out the old pads, and what a SOB it was to put in the new pads. Now, after thinking about that, ignore the two posts above. They mean well. They really do:)

You probably had to beat the pads in. The pads must be so damned loose as to fall out, and the slide hardware must "glide" in the bore.
Post #7 http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=146597&highlight=another+soft+brake

And post #8 nails what you started with.

BTW, do all 4 corners, and be sure to use the proper lube. If a front was bad, the rears will be worse.

Having tried every variation of grease and lube out there, this is the only one that works. http://www.crcindustries.com/catalog/images/Greases/SL3303.jpg
Every other lubricant either doesn't stop corrosion (GMs grease included with the pads, and used new) or deteriorates the rubber components to the point of becoming adhesive. Anti-sieze is the absolute worst product to use with rubber to metal contact.



that particular brand grease or just synthetic brake grease?

that particular brand grease or just synthetic brake grease?
The clear lube that comes from GM (in their pad kit, and was used when originally built) and any of the clear lubes I've tried will allow free movement, but do ZERO to cancel out corrosion after water finds it's way in. And, no matter how well sealed, water WILL get in there.

I previously used a green synthetic grease "caliper lube" from Permatex, but it made the internal rubber bushings "gummy" after a short period in service, which resulted in "pad rattle" and poor pedal feel, but "no rust".

Been using the Stalube for years now, and the hardware is always "like new" when the pads finally wear out. It's a black/ graphite color.

The one guy here (in my shop) who insisted on using anti-sieze, ended up with weird pad wear, noise, and damned near impossible to remove slide bolts. In some cases, brake application would result in a strong pull to one side, and on others, the pads would drag (like the OP's) to the point of smoking.

And to the OP, GM's Durastop pads list for $86 an axle, and are ceramic, generate little to no dust, last well over 100k miles (if checks are made at least annually to keep things free, and are noise free, just like the day you bought the truck.



To the OP, no matter how much grease or cosmoline that you left on the rotor, there should never be any smoke. Grease or cosmoline left intact on the rotor will simply result in a putrid odor for the first 100 miles or so, but NO smoke.

heymccall, you posted once with a couple of pictures included and I can't find that post. I'm trying to figure where the "ears" are on the brakes and what part you need to unbolt to get the pads out and perform the service. You don't need to unbolt the whole caliper right? Or do you? Thanks.

BTW wreedlbz, Amazon has that lube for like $9 or so.

LA DMAX

i used the syn gease at the oreilly counter when i did my last 2 brake jobs on the suburban.

OK, maybe not $9, but $12.95.

http://www.amazon.com/Sta-Lube-SL3303-Caliper-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000CPIOAG

LA DMAX

heymccall, you posted once with a couple of pictures included and I can't find that post. I'm trying to figure where the "ears" are on the brakes and what part you need to unbolt to get the pads out and perform the service. You don't need to unbolt the whole caliper right? Or do you? Thanks.

BTW wreedlbz, Amazon has that lube for like $9 or so.

LA DMAX
Doing fronts, collapse (retract) the piston using a C-clamp (only a 1/8" is necessary if not replacing pads), then remove the two 18mm headed bolts. Set the caliper aside (do not hang by the hose).

Now remove the pads. If they fight you, you'll need to determine if the pad is too long, or if corrosion exists under the stainless (which will shrink the height of the opening. AND, the single camel hump on the stainless needs to allow the pad to fit VERY easily. Most pads require the U-shaped portion to be opened, with the trimming biased to the lining side, and alittle at the top of the U.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=313310

In this thread, there is plenty of height to the "U", but under the stainless was the problem along with the width of the "U".
That thread was for the rear and only the BOTTOM T-50 headed bolt need be removed. Personally, I prefer to remove the whole ear and fit the pads on a bench if the pads needed beat or pried out. Front ear has 2 @ 21mm head bolts (221lb/ft + Blue Loctite) and the rear bracket has 2 @ 18mm (150lb/ft + Blue Loctite).

Napa has the Sta-Lube grease.
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=SLRSL3303_0006558601

Thanks heymccall. Now I get what the ears are. The stainless clips should mount back on after cleaning the ears right? As long as you don't remove too much material. So when GM recommends a new ear, it looks to me you need to replace that entire part. That can get expensive real quick. Thanks again.

LA DMAX

Thanks heymccall. Now I get what the ears are. The stainless clips should mount back on after cleaning the ears right? As long as you don't remove too much material. So when GM recommends a new ear, it looks to me you need to replace that entire part. That can get expensive real quick. Thanks again.

LA DMAX
Yeah, BUT, I've never had to replace but one, and that was 'cus a slide bolt galled in so bad that I couldn't remove it. Aftermarket reman calipers can be had with the ear. Two aftermarket reman calipers with the ears cost less than one OEM ear.

where do you get the remans? Autozone or NAPA or ? Thanks.

LA DMAX

maybe check rockauto.

where do you get the remans? Autozone or NAPA or ? Thanks.

LA DMAX
Napa (but the pads generate noise and excessive dust)
http://partimages.genpt.com/partimages/900121.jpg (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/#)http://partimages.genpt.com/thumbs/900121.jpg (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/#)http://partimages.genpt.com/thumbs/900124.jpg (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/#)http://partimages.genpt.com/thumbs/900123.jpg (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/#)http://partimages.genpt.com/thumbs/900122.jpg (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/#)
Qty
Caliper w/ Pads & Hdwr - L/Frt (Eclipse) -Remfd Product Line: NAPA BRAKE CALIPERS Part Number: CAL LE5282
81.99 Each
55.00 Core


Or Vatozone

Morse / Brake Caliper Loaded Pair - Rear (With quieter and less dusty pads)For your 2005 GMC Truck Sierra 2500HD 4WD 6.6L Turbo Diesel 8cyl





http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/mor/P4728/image/6/

(http://www.dieselplace.com/autozone/catalog/common/enlargedImageOverlay.jsp?prodDescription=Morse+/+Brake+Caliper+Loaded+Pair+-+Rear&imageURLList=%5B%5D)




Price:
$195.99

Core*Core value is the used part that manufacturers use for rebuilding. AutoZone charges the core value to customers because manufacturers include it in their prices. When you return your core to AutoZone, we'll refund your core charge. (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/#):
$10.40

Total:
$206.39


AVAILABILITY:
STORE PICK UP
SPECIAL ORDER







Part Number:P4728Bracket:YesFriction Material Type:CeramicShipping Information:

Thanks mccall. Just wondering if you can get the calipers from NAPA unloaded and then get the stock pads from the stealer. I like the low dust ceramics that came with the truck.

Vatozone, heeheehee, dude that's too funny especially since I'm married to a Mexican.

Thanks again

LA DMAX