I read that the ford 6.0 psd intentionally routes EGR gases thru the fresh air side of the turbo, as evidenced by the constantly oily aftercooler tubes and blown off boots. I'm sure the LLY has about the same system. I've noticed I'm starting to get some oily dirt around the boots. I wonder if that is a way the factory intended to internally lube the mechanism that rotates (uh, turns?) the turbo vanes? If so, maybe a bunch of us need to hook 'er back up? :sign_weir

umm...i just got dumber reading this:help2:

That would be good to know....I am sure some of the Diesel Guru's on here will chime in and give there .02;) I would like to know, now that I have had my plate/stick combo in for about 3 months.:rolleyes:

JLew

My guess on this would have to be no EGR is a good thing. Soot which is blocked off by your plate & stick combo (or unplugging) doesn't provide any lubrication. However it is certainly possible that the PCV which is introduced just before the turbo provides lubrication, whether it does or not I do not know. One thing I do know, soot + PCV= sticky nasty mess. Check some of the VW (I know different engine, but same principles) TDI forums, you'll see that the PCV + EGR setup on their motors is causing restrictions in the intake tract and a myriad of other problems.

My .02 soot in the intake = :badidea: If it were meant to be that way they'd have been doing it for a long time, not just recently when the environmentalists got into our engines.

Wait until some of you guys pull your intercooler off........ and CLEAN IT OUT!:eek:

Wait until some of you guys pull your intercooler off........ and CLEAN IT OUT!:eek:

Is this a result from blocking the egr or, not having it blocked??:confused:

JLew

Is this a result from blocking the egr or, not having it blocked??:confused:

JLew

From not blocking EGR.

Even the federal LB7's have a slight issue with it.

at 50K miles clean it out.-:t

You'll be amazed!

I hadn't considered the PCV plot yet! Surely it will be required reading. I waited 120,000 mi to unplug the EGR. I can imagine what the intercooler looks like by now. El-yucko. There was a big ole mess where the EGR was leaking at the conection to the intake, as it was loose.:exactly:

I hadn't considered the PCV plot yet! Surely it will be required reading. I waited 120,000 mi to unplug the EGR. I can imagine what the intercooler looks like by now. El-yucko. There was a big ole mess where the EGR was leaking at the conection to the intake, as it was loose.:exactly:
I actually assisted a friend (drives a furd, plz don't kill me ):h) with a PCV mod earlier this month. He has unplugged his EGR, and a few months after that blew his IC boot off! He asked me for assistance and while we were trying to get the boot back on I noted his IC was full of sludge. At the time he did not want to remove the IC for cleaning :badidea: but it is his truck, anyway he found a mod on the furd forums where you put a air/oil separator in the loop which will bleed off the oil from the PCV setup which *should* prevent the oil from ever getting into the IC in the first place.

I searched the DP for a similar mod for the DMAX, the only mod I found was a simple road draft tube (yummie oily mess under the truck with this method) so I'm waiting to see if everything holds up with his truck and this mod. If so I may add this to mine.

...One thing I do know, soot + PCV= sticky nasty mess. Check some of the VW (I know different engine, but same principles) TDI forums, you'll see that the PCV + EGR setup on their motors is causing restrictions in the intake tract and a myriad of other problems.

My .02 soot in the intake = :badidea: If it were meant to be that way they'd have been doing it for a long time, not just recently when the environmentalists got into our engines.

Or check out an old MB diesel engine for the same results of an EGR on a diesel. When I removed my intake to do the glow plugs, it only had about a cigar-sized hole in the runners to get air. There was about 3/4" of oily soot built up on all interior surfaces. After cleaning it out as best I could, I suddenly became no longer EPA-compliant ;) .

how do you clean out the IC? I shouldn't need to yet, maybe?? (and i do have the plate/stick in since about 10,000 miles, now at about 18,ooo)

how do you clean out the IC? I shouldn't need to yet, maybe?? (and i do have the plate/stick in since about 10,000 miles, now at about 18,ooo)

Remove Intercooler.

Place on a flat surface with tubes up.
Pour in a gallon of laquer thinner. let sit for 10 minutes. cap ends, and flip over tubes down.
Agitage intercooler and dump black oily filthy mess.

Repeat until thinner comes clean.

Then use Lemon dishwashing detergent in a med strong solution and swirl it around to get rid of the thinner. Rinse thoroughly after.

Take compressed air and blow out as much water as possible, let stand for 1 hour on it's side (end tank) drain that water out and blow out one last time with compressed air.

Plan on being down for the day while doing this.

I do not think i need to stress how important it is to get all the water and thinner out of the intercooler prior to reinstallation.:D

Ok let me take this time to show my ignorance...but couldn't the oily mess be sucked into the engine...possibly causing a run away opportunity???

MaxRock

how do you clean out the IC? I shouldn't need to yet, maybe?? (and i do have the plate/stick in since about 10,000 miles, now at about 18,ooo)

Cleaning the CAC is a bit involved, you should remove it from the vehicle to properly clean it so be ready to devote a weekend to the project. While I haven't cleaned a DMAX CAC yet I'm sure the procedure would be similar to those I've performed in the past. Basically you will need a solvent of some kind, I've used kerosene, lacquer thinner, and carburetor cleaner (although the carburetor cleaner was used on a very small CAC), and judging the size of the DMAX CAC you're gonna need quite a bit of it, I'd say a gallon possibly more. You will also need dish soap and lots of water.

The basic procedure is to pour solvent into the CAC (I'm estimating 1 quart), slosh it around for a bit then dump the sludge out. You'll need to do this several times, eventually the solvent will come out clean.

Next step is to mix up a batch of nice hot soapy water. Pour this into the CAC and GENTLY rock the CAC back and forth for several minutes, then let the CAC sit long enough to allow the soap to settle. Basically you want to spread the soapy water throughout the CAC without making enormous amounts of bubbles. The reason for this step is we all know that oil and water do not mix, so if you simply clean your CAC with water you may not get all the solvent out (especially if you use kerosene), soap will assist in removing all the solvent.

Next pour out the soapy water i(t will likely be murky) and proceed to flush the CAC with GENEROUS amounts of water. You obviously do not want any solvent or soap getting into your engine so again be generous when flushing the CAC.

When you are absolutely certain the CAC is clean set it aside and let it dry.

Hurry up and wait time! My suggestion would be to allow the CAC to dry overnight before re-installing, obviously you do not want any solvent getting into the engine as it may cause the engine to explode! Solvent vapors can be just as dangerous, additionally soap or water can easily damage the engine so be sure the CAC is TOTALLY dry! As a final precaution when everything is connected start the engine and allow it to idle for several minutes. Not only will this allow you to verify all connections are tight, it will also provide a low stress period for the engine in the event water, soap or solvent vapors remained in the CAC.

Damn juice you're fast!!!

hehe, duplicate instructions, enjoy the knowledge feast!

Juice, on a non egr LB7 do you think your going to fill up with sludge as quickly??? Could part of your build up(no offense here) be in puking a turbo or 2? Just wondering if I should bother with adding this to my to do list.....

Ok let me take this time to show my ignorance...but couldn't the oily mess be sucked into the engine...possibly causing a run away opportunity???

MaxRock

The amount in question is small, and takes time to build up. Kind of like the effects of congestive heart failure... it takes time for the plaque to build up; In this instance soot in the intercooler.

Could this buildup be attributed to the overheating in the LLY?
By not letting the air charge be cooled off enough due to this soot buildup?

Juice, on a non egr LB7 do you think your going to fill up with sludge as quickly??? Could part of your build up(no offense here) be in puking a turbo or 2? Just wondering if I should bother with adding this to my to do list.....

I have voluntarily cleaned my CAC wether puking the odd turbo or not.

Puking a turbo does cause it to soil slightly faster though):h

A non egr DMX will still have this happen, 50,000 miles i would check it.

If you run a paper OEM filter, you have almost no worries. But I would check it for sure at 50K miles.

Could this buildup be attributed to the overheating in the LLY?
By not letting the air charge be cooled off enough due to this soot buildup?

Yes it is possible, but the contamination level would need to be huge, with .... say a 35% blockage/coating of surface metal being and turning insular instead of conducting heat away.

Something to check out.

Good Thought Duratys!:ro)

Damn juice you're fast!!!!


Damn Enigma, How is my Ex Girlfriend?):h ):h ):h

ROTFLMAO. J/K:D I'm on a roll today! and my wits are sharp... for once:lol:

Damn Enigma, How is my Ex Girlfriend?):h ):h ):h

ROTFLMAO. J/K:D I'm on a roll today! and my wits are sharp... for once:lol:
Whoa man... whoaaaa...

What I meant was that... errr... well... your truck! yeah! your truck is fast):h

Could this buildup be attributed to the overheating in the LLY?
By not letting the air charge be cooled off enough due to this soot buildup?
Yes it is possible, but the contamination level would need to be huge, with .... say a 35% blockage/coating of surface metal being and turning insular instead of conducting heat away.

Something to check out.

Good Thought Duratys!:ro)
That is a good point! I wonder how long it would take for oil from the PCV system to coat the entire inside of the CAC. Then stack some soot on top of it? I also wonder how many miles those who have over heated their DMAX have put on them before they towed heavy enough to over heat them? If they towed and overheated right off the dealer lot that would disprove this as a possible theory, but if they put some miles on first it could very well be...

Argh! And I waited till a 120,000 mi to unplug the beast! Sounds like a week end dedicated to CAC and an intake will be in order after I find out how to vent the PCV to the ground like a LB7 !:grd:

Argh! And I waited till a 120,000 mi to unplug the beast! Sounds like a week end dedicated to CAC and an intake will be in order after I find out how to vent the PCV to the ground like a LB7 !:grd:

It might not be that bad. A stock truck will have some contamination, LB7 or LLY, but on a heavily fuelled one where there is many times more soot output... you get the idea.

On my LB7 I did not know how bad it could get until I took mine off. (Mine is an LB7 Federal... no cat no egr.. nothing) A little bit of over oil on the filter is all it takes to start the process rolling. Maybe a few pictures of the whole black mess of nastiness are in order.

The intercooler clean is a terrific idea. Be thankful we do not have our crankcase vent near the rad/CAC like the dodge boys do. The serious ones tend to clean theirs more often. It makes for one hellova mess.

Also, if you do not wish to use aromatic solvents (Tree Huggers/Granolies/Earthmuffins/Greenpeacers et al sic) you can do the same job using live steam detergent cleaning, but it will take a bit more time.

To see if you need cleaning? Simple to do. Take a handtowel out of the bathroom (bravery points awarded if you use the towels you have been told to never use by SWMBO) tear it in half. Use half #1 to wipe radially (1 pass only please) on the intercooler inlet on the drivers side. Then use half #2 to wipe the pass side (CAC discharge) 1 radial wipe only.

Compare them. If they are both equally filthy... clean it out and do a visual inspect of the turbocharger. Check for Axial and radial play (since you are there anyways)

If one side is cleaner than the other... may as well get it done.

If you are clean... or lightly dirty.....leave it alone.

Good Luck

Oh, throw 'the towel' away..... deny deny deny you have ever seen it. Otherwise you might be in the doghouse for a while.

so, on to plan "B"! Maybe there is enough oil blow by from the turbo seals to do the job, if it's needed at all?

Ok, so my Quad A nature forces me to make some comments about this post. Mostly just to make what is being said here clear for those who may miss certian details of the post, which although very informative, bounces around a bit.

The PCV system in introduced into the intake system pre-turbo/Intercooler (IC). The EGR system is introduced into the intake system post-intercooler (IC).

What this means to the discussion..... Although the EGR dumps unwanted soot into the intake system, it has no effect on buildup of gunk in the intercoller. Now the PCV system is another story, and you can count on the fact that I will be monitoring this with great scrutiny over the coming months, however if the system is working correctly I do not see why there should be excessive buildup in the IC. Although the idea of a oil seperator in-line makes good sense to me.

I hope I did not step on any toes here, but the way the conversation bounced around between the EGR and the PCV systems, I felt it seemed a bit unclear to someone who had less knowledge that most of us here which system was the culprit with the IC.

John

I hope I did not step on any toes here, but the way the conversation bounced around between the EGR and the PCV systems, I felt it seemed a bit unclear to someone who had less knowledge that most of us here which system was the culprit with the IC.
John
Certainly didn't step on any toes here, free flow of information is what it's all about. Thanks for the clarification as the thread does seem to be bouncing from EGR to PCV and back again... What was the origional topic again :lol:

That's right! so the oil comes from the PCV? My Tubes are clear except for a little "clean" oily residue, so that answers the origonal Q about how the internal workings of the vanes getting lubed!