Ok, here is the deal. Just put the engine back in. The pump is dry, just came from the shop, the injectors and the lines are dry. primed the fuel manager and the air is out up to the bleed valve. I did this a number of times to make sure all the air was out. Cracked the injector nuts. How long does it normally take to get fuel through the lines??
I jumpered the OPS plug to prime the filter., but when the key is turned on the pump doesn't pump, it will pump when cranking, but not the initial pumping before cranking or building oil pressure. Did I leave a wire off the remote battery terminal? HEEElllPP

It can take a couple min of cranking with a new IP to get the injector lines bled.....

yeah, the injector lines wont prime by just the lift pump, you will have to crank it with some of the injector line's cracked.

The nuts at the injectors are loose. Curious if the selinod on the pump could be sticking. I have voltage at the plug. Will the selinod make noise when power is applied?

Should.... But you have to crank the engine over for it to pump fuel to the injector lines......

I have been cranking the engine, have done this with tractors many times.

Do the fuel seloniod's have a tendency to stick? The pump shop should have told me if anything was wrong with it, I would think.

I guess, I'll pull the valve off and see if it is moving.

I think you should be able to hear it click........ You can on the 6.2 pumps anyway.....

Pulled the selenoid off it is working properly when the key is on the plunger moves.

Replaced the fuel line from the tank to the pump, had a small hole after the flex crimp, letting in air., replaced with a plastic line, didn't know they existed.

New pmd w/extension, if pmd happend to be bad, would the pump still pump?

If any of the vacuum selenoids would have bad connections, would this prevent the pump from pumping?

If the optical link is bad, would this prevent the pump from pumping? Thanks..

The PMD transistors must fire to command the IP to pump fuel to the injectors.

To watch the air in the lines, temporarily replace the short drainback fuel hose with a clear plastic hose from Home Depot.

You will think the truck will never crank while you are getting the air out of the lines. Be patient, don't overheat your starter or run down your batteries and keep on turning the engine over. At the point when you are convinced that it will never crank, you will hear the sputter that tells you fuel is finally getting to the injectors. (Don't ask how I know.)

Have you gotten any farther in troubleshooting the problem with your truck ?

It sounds like your OPS is bad. Try a jumper directly to the lift pump just to get it started. Did the fuel in the fuel filter sit for an extended period of time while the motor was out? If so, replace it, could be restricting the flow to your injectors.

Found out that the starter wasn't cranking as fast as it should. Had starter repaired, started after the third try.

Starter was new,from the previous owner. He had tried to start the old broken engine with it. so he may cooked it before I bought it.