After trying in vein to get the passenger side CV half shaft out without touching the steering, I have decided it's not going to happen. It seems the best place to remove would be the bolt that connects the inner and outer tie rods, as the steering knuclke connection may require alignment after reconnecting it. Unfortunately this bolt is very near the frame rail and therefore difficult to get a handle on. The connecting bolt doesn't stick out the opposite side of the union, and I am worried that removing it will disrupt a grease fitting (there is a bushing between the inner and outer tie rod ends).

Is there any good way to get that bolt out, and if so am I disrupting a grease fitting or anything else? Is it possible to damage the tie rods or idler arm if I crank too hard on the nut? There really isn't room to get an impact wrench in there...

x

What are you working on?

It's a 1990 K2500 (8 lug 8600 GVRW)

You are going to have to separate the upper ball joint from the knuckle and possibly the outer tie rod from the knuckle to remove the CV shaft. At least that's the way I remember doing them.

No alignment necessary doing it this way.

I thought you could just remove the outter tierod end from the spindle and remove the shaft.

I thought you could just remove the outter tierod end from the spindle and remove the shaft.

What is the "spindle"? Is that the toe-in adjustment brace in the outer tie rod?

What I am (probably doing a bad job of) referring to is the outer tie rod end opposite the steering knuckle. It seems I wouldn't need to press any ball joints if I disconnect the steering at that point...

After trying in vein to get the passenger side CV half shaft out without touching the steering, I have decided it's not going to happen. It seems the best place to remove would be the bolt that connects the inner and outer tie rods, as the steering knuclke connection may require alignment after reconnecting it. Unfortunately this bolt is very near the frame rail and therefore difficult to get a handle on. The connecting bolt doesn't stick out the opposite side of the union, and I am worried that removing it will disrupt a grease fitting (there is a bushing between the inner and outer tie rod ends).

Is there any good way to get that bolt out, and if so am I disrupting a grease fitting or anything else? Is it possible to damage the tie rods or idler arm if I crank too hard on the nut? There really isn't room to get an impact wrench in there...

x

You are replacing the CV shaft, correct?

Correct. I was able to remove the drivers side shaft without touching the steering. The passenger side doesn't fit out between the shaft flange, the lower A-arm, and the tie rod (I even cut the inner boot in attempt to squeeze it out). So, it appears I am left with getting the tie rod disconnected. I'm trying to avoid touching the ball joint on the steering knuckle because I don't have a lot of ball joint tools and the Haynes manual is telling me that I have to have the steering realigned if I undo the knuckle. Thus, I'm trying to disconnect in between the inner and outer tie rods, which appears to be a bolt...

I should mention I have cut the tie rod ends out and the suspension is currently hanging as the truck in on jack stands and the lower shock bolt is removed.

x

These two pictures should help. I have a wrench hanging from the bolt I want to remove, however pounding on the wrench can't be good for the rods or the idler arm.

http://www.timekill.org/photos/truck/cimg3473.jpg
http://www.timekill.org/photos/truck/cimg3474.jpg

They may load slow, the cable modem only goes so fast

These two pictures should help. I have a wrench hanging from the bolt I want to remove, however pounding on the wrench can't be good for the rods or the idler arm.

http://www.timekill.org/photos/truck/cimg3473.jpg
http://www.timekill.org/photos/truck/cimg3474.jpg

They may load slow, the cable modem only goes so fast

Great pics!

Unhook the other tie rod at the knuckle. Strike the knuckle around the tie rod stud and the tie rod should fall out. Don't listen to Haynes' BS, you will not have to re-align.

If you unhook the upper ball joint from the knuckle, you will NOT have to re-align either. Same technique for splitting the knuckle and ball joint. Un-hook the caliper and strike the knuckle adjacent to the ball joint stud for the tapered stud to release. Watch out though, the whole deal will pop apart very quickly so don't be in the way of the upper control arm or steering knuckle.

Just use a jack under the lower control arm and maybe a prybar on the upper control arm to get the ball stud to seat in the knuckle.

Oh! I just realized why you were unhooking the inner tie rod; to allow enough room to slide the axle out. Never done it that way and don't see why that wouldn't work.

Hammer away or throw a pipe over that wrench.

if there is another way, i'm all ears ;-)

if there is another way, i'm all ears ;-)

nm, the inner boot came apart and the shaft fell out! New shaft went in without problems.

Thanks all!