I bought a running 6.2 from a friend a while back and due to a daily driver taking a dump, I'm dropping a 6.2 into my 83 K20. It originally came with a 6.2 factory, but was switched over to gas before I bought it.

I received all components for the install, so I hope. Including the fuel filter for the firewall, lines, and other odds and ends.

I was just wondering what the basics are for getting a 6.2 running, as far as wiring. I know bleeding the fuel line is a must, but will I have to mess with the timing since it came out of a running truck?

Im planning on a manual glow plug relay.

Any tips or advice you can give me for install would be greatly appreciated.

I have installed gas motors, but this will be my first diesel install :D

Shouldn't have any reason to touch the timing...... Pretty much just need the wire that controls the fuel shutoff solenoid and hooks up the alt....... I'm sure more guys will pitch in with there info..... Good luck and let us know how it goes.....


and you look pretty new here so :welcome2:

Thanks.

I'll probably run the trans cooler through the rad and run a separate cooler for the oil.

Does anyone else have info on the wire that controls the fuel shutoff solenoid?

What kind of info? It's pink, it takes 12v, the terminal is on the middle passenger side just below the cold advance terminal.

its thick and pink.... its a heavier wire lol

I have been real busy lately, but I got the 6.2 in the truck, however I was not able to get the torque converter to slide all the way onto the output shaft of the trans. The Tq is on the flywheel, which made things harder. Im thinking hte engine and trans are not aligned straight. There is only about a 1" difference between the bell housing and the back of the engine.
Anyone have any ideas?

You do mean INPUT shaft right? :p:

Take the engine back out or drop the trans and install the torque converter correctly...... You need to spin the converter clockwise while pushing it into the transmission and probably rock it up at the same time until it seats completely.... There should be a gap between the torque converter and the flexplate after you get the transmission bolted to the engine.....

and be sure you have the correct torque converter. the spline count on 82-83 are different then the later ones.

and be sure you have the correct torque converter. the spline count on 82-83 are different then the later ones.

X-2

the tourque needs to turn one way until it clicks in then the other direction until it clicks in and maybe another shot the other direction until it clicks in, then other until it stops clicking and entering......

I'm glad I read this thread. I just bought an 83 burb W/4wd, 700r4 formerly diesel. The seller tried to install a gas 350 and found out the torque converter wouldn't fit or vibrated badly, so he decided to sell. I bought it with the intent on using the 6.2 from my 84 PU, cause the pickup's tranny is shot, plus the frame was bent from the PO, but the engine has only 20K or less on it. I guess I'll either need to use the TC from the 84 or the 83, but I'm not sure. I hope to use he burbs converter, but I'll be sure to check the splines. Any other issues I might run into? 84 PU 2 wd into 83 Burb 4wd.

Yeah I meant imput shaft.
The TC is the original one that came with that engine.

Can I turn the the engine over from the crank to get the tc to turn until it clicks?
It will probably be a lot easier to just yank it, and then install the Tc onto the trans.

its thick and pink.... its a heavier wire lol

I don't have the truck to look at right now, but I think thats the wire that went to the distributer on the previous engine.

Yeah I meant imput shaft.
The TC is the original one that came with that engine.

Can I turn the the engine over from the crank to get the tc to turn until it clicks?
It will probably be a lot easier to just yank it, and then install the Tc onto the trans.

No.... you have to pull it........ only way to do it right....

I don't have the truck to look at right now, but I think thats the wire that went to the distributer on the previous engine.

Wouldn't surprise me...

Where does the pink wire run to on the 6.2?

The shut off solenoid on the top the the IP.

Ok thanks.

No prob...

Im sure I'll have more questions with hooking things up, but the main wiring would be
1. Batteries, alt, starter, ignition
2.glow plugs/relay- I bought a starter relay from a ford to use. That should work right?
3. The shutoff solenoid on th IP

I've been searching on here for engine wiring diagrams, but I was looking for the simplified versions, as I dont need the diagram for the entire truck.

Thanks Again.

Sounds like you've got the basics covered..... and yes the starter relay will work

I also just found something about a switch for high idle?

I also just found something about a switch for high idle?

Only works on computer controlled 6.5's and newer.......

Wrong, Joe. We have a high idle solenoid on our trucks.

There's a temp sensor, I think its in the back of the passenger side head but I'm not certain. Anyhow, its a normally closed switch, with two terminals, that opens when the motor heats up. You need to put 12v to one side of that switch, then run the other to both the cold advance and high idle solenoids on the IP.

Or, you can just put a switch on your dash to control the 12v to those solenoids.

heres the glow plug wiring digram

grey do you have any wire harness at all?

if you are starting from scratch, ya theres alot of wires to do, but ya just to make it start you only need the one 12v to the ip.

Your battery cable will go from pass side + down to the starter. All other power feeds off the starter, such as the fuse block, the glow plugs, and the alt charge wire also goes here.

glow plug wiring should be simple, not much to explain except not to run 100 amps into the cab and into a 15 amps switch.

high idle and advance. will need a circuit as stated through the temp sensor or a manual switch in the cab.

you will need some fuel filter sensor wires and power to the heater (not sure what filter your using)

You will need a torque convertor lockup switch if you have a 700r4, or a whole mess of a diagram in order to get it to work correctly with the brake switch and that.

So ya, theres a ton of wiring to get everythign working how its supposed to. Not just the one wire.

Then you are going to need all your gauges, wether stock or aftermarket and if they will be mechanical or electrical pickups.

Thats all i can think of off hand.

that probrably wont help much for a manual setup.....

heres the glow plug wiring digram

Wrong, Joe. We have a high idle solenoid on our trucks.

There's a temp sensor, I think its in the back of the passenger side head but I'm not certain. Anyhow, its a normally closed switch, with two terminals, that opens when the motor heats up. You need to put 12v to one side of that switch, then run the other to both the cold advance and high idle solenoids on the IP.

Or, you can just put a switch on your dash to control the 12v to those solenoids.

I didn't count that cuz that solenoid isn't strong enough to kick the idle up on it's own..... Ya have to press down on the accelerator pedal and then it will hold it up......

how about this LOL.....paint is amazing!!! LOL

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m92/JodeanSS/86%20Chevy%20PU/glowplug.jpg

I'm not starting completely from scratch. This was a 6.2 from the factory and the PO left some of the wires, but Im not sure everything is there.
I can get some pictures in a little bit, but I do have a plug that goes near the IP, but I think it might have something to do with cruise?
The truck is an 83 and the engine is out of an 85 k5.

I didn't count that cuz that solenoid isn't strong enough to kick the idle up on it's own..... Ya have to press down on the accelerator pedal and then it will hold it up......

Who on Earth starts their 6.2 without pressing on the pedal at all?

Ok, here are some pics.

Here is a plug that goes into the firewall near the steering column.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj303/GREY-GHOST_2008/K20/62059.jpg

It has the same plug here
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj303/GREY-GHOST_2008/K20/62060.jpg

The fuel filter I'm using
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj303/GREY-GHOST_2008/K20/62063.jpg

That pink wire
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj303/GREY-GHOST_2008/K20/62062.jpg

A couple other plugs near the IP
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj303/GREY-GHOST_2008/K20/62061.jpg

The alt wire from the gasser
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj303/GREY-GHOST_2008/K20/62064.jpg

the ones near the IP go to the TPS (black switchy/thingy) hanging off the pass side of the IP
thats about i can help with

Ok, here are some pics.


First pic looks like the cruise control plug that goes into the cruise computer. Computer is mounted near the accel. pedal. If you don't have one, you'll have to find one at a salvage yard or spend three arms and two legs at a parts store for one.

Second pic is the cruise control servo w/ associated wiring.

Fuel filter is obvious.

Fourth pic is your IP shutoff wire I do believe. If you have +12v there with key in RUN and START then it's definitely IP fuel shutoff solenoid.

Fifth pic, your alt cable, should work just fine in the 6.2 alt. Shouldn't be any difference between them.

Only other thought is, get rid of your C code intake...J code is where its at.

I don't think this truck had cruise from the factory, but I could be wrong. I swapped the column about a year ago for one that now has a cruise button. It did not have that with the old column.



you will need some fuel filter sensor wires and power to the heater (not sure what filter your using)


Where would I need fuel filter sensor wires with pic I showed?

Where would I need fuel filter sensor wires with pic I showed?

You don't

I didn't think I was going to need those.
Alright, well I have to take the TC off the engine and slide that on the trans. Then re-install the engine. I'll get all the big stuff hooked up then worry about all the little things. I just wanted to get an idea of everything that will be needed for it to run properly.

I don't think this truck had cruise from the factory, but I could be wrong. I swapped the column about a year ago for one that now has a cruise button. It did not have that with the old column.

Well, the pic definitely shows a cruise control servo, way beyond any shadow of a doubt, so at least the motor you're running has that. If you're not going to use the servo, test that it works and I'll buy it off you.

I got the engine in and bolted up.
I went to hook up the Ps pump and found out my bracket is not the correct size.

Without it
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj303/GREY-GHOST_2008/K20/62install006.jpg

With

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj303/GREY-GHOST_2008/K20/62install007.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj303/GREY-GHOST_2008/K20/62install008.jpg

It looks like the PO cut and welded a part of the bracket. I might just look around for another one or see it I can get this one cut and welded to the correct size. I wish I had a welder.


Also- I went to bolt on the water pump pulley and fan. It looks like I am missing a fan clutch. Did the 85 6.2 use a fan clutch between the pulley and fan?

Did the 85 6.2 use a fan clutch between the pulley and fan?

Yes

your bracket may be out of shape, I recently had that issue. A littli massage with the ol crescent wrench helped

i just wanted to watch this thread.

someone may have the correct bracket if the hammer doesn't work, i've tossed a couple

I do have another one but it's broke in the same place where his is welded, or I'd have give it to him.

How bad is it broke? My bracket could be cut and re-welded on the pass side of the bracket, but its way off on the drivers side.

If anyone does have the correct bracket, let me know. I would be interested in buying it.

edit- I might just try to get this one cut welded and see how it works.

the bracket has 3 tangs. one on the top with a hole, one on the left with a slot, one on the right with a slot. It looks to me as though the left and right tangs are both a little low of aligning with the bolts, and, I'm assuming that the pump is hanging on the top bolt in the photo. It seems to me that if the top tang were to be adjusted downward slightly, that the lower two holes would be pulled up into alignment.
My Motto,... "If it doesn't fit force it! If it breaks it needed to be replaced anyway!"
Just kidding! but really i just had the same issue with my '82 engine going into my '84 rig.just a little tweak was all it took.

Great Idea!

I needed another set of eyes on it. I measured and both the left and right tabs were 1/2" low. I did have it hanging on the top bolt in those pictures. I could trim the top and drill a new hole and bam! :D

Sounds like a plan :thumb: ....... Let us know how it works out :cool:

Will do. Im only able to work on it on weekends, due to it being 2hrs away, which is why progress is so slow.

this may help, i had these pics from helping someone on another post with the mounts circled.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k176/diaric/Picture002-1.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k176/diaric/Picture003-1.jpg

My Ps pump bracket only has 3 mounting points. It's missing the mount on the very bottom. It should still be fine with 3 though right?

im wondering if all those mounts were because the A/C belt run off of the PS pump so it had all those different forces on it. if its not a A/C truck you should be ok id think.

does yours have the resevoir and filler above the pump as well? the 82 i took apart with no ac didn't and i think the brackets were a little different
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k176/diaric/011.jpg

that looks like my powersteering pump. i have 3 bolts that i have to loosen to ajust it then that pivot point.

That looks just like my ps pump assembly, but I have an ac compressor there as well..

Does anyone have any extra ps pump brackets laying around?

I tried to adjust mine, but I can't drill another hole for the top mount. The current hole is right above a bend.

I also tried to massaage it with a hammer to make it work. I got the tab on the right to line up, but the left one was still way off. Even if I got this bracket to bolt on, I don't think the pulley would be in line with the rest of the bolts.

I found an 82 6.2 that someone is parting out. Its over an hour away, but I was wondering if anyone knows if the braket from an 82 will work for the 85 engine that I have.

You will need a torque convertor lockup switch if you have a 700r4, or a whole mess of a diagram in order to get it to work correctly with the brake switch and that.


Is the TC lockup switch required because of the lower stall?
Could there be a possibility that the wiring for it to work correctly is still in the truck? The trans ran fine with the small block I had in there. :confused:

Is the TC lockup switch required because of the lower stall?
Could there be a possibility that the wiring for it to work correctly is still in the truck? The trans ran fine with the small block I had in there. :confused:

hard to answer that, you will just have to plug it in and try it