Hey guys,

I've got an out of warranty 2001 Silverado 3500 Dually with 60k on the engine/tranny. I didn't do my homework when we originally bought the vehicle pre-owned in 2008, we got it for my fiancee who trailers out her horse on weekends.

Anyways, long story longer, we took it in to a repair shop because of intermittent starting issues, they said it was the fuel pump. 1,800 bucks later, take it home and now it consistently won't start. We had them re-diagnose the problem and it came up that the injectors were bad. To top that off we are out of warranty.

I'd like to keep the vehicle, but we are getting married this year and money is super tight. I got an estimate from a nearby dealership for 3,600. What i'm wondering is if that is a good price and what other problems I should be expecting down the road from and '01 duramax 3500.

I'm also looking for a good tech out in the western Washington state area who cares about their craft and doesn't charge an arm and a leg. I'm in Issaquah/Sammamish so if anyone reading this forum knows of someone out here that is good, I would really appreciate the referral.

I know this forum is primarily for techs and advanced do-it-your-selfers so I appreciate ya'll tolerating a customer.

Thank you, god bless

I did my injectors for $1500. The stealership here in Escondido Ca wanted $4500. How was it diagnosed as having bad injectors? Did they use a tech2 and discover that the balance rates were way off, fuel in the oil or do a fuel return rate on the injectors? What lead them to believe it was a fuel pump?

I believe they diagnosed it as excess fuel in the return line, I know I have to manually prime the fuel pump if I want it to start. They said something about cracks in-between the supply and return. When I pressed them as to what needed to be done they said that the injectors needed to be changed. I don't think they used a tech2, also it was not a dealership that initially diagnosed the problem.

I have no idea why they thought it was the fuel pump, I won't be taking it back to that place, as far as i'm concerned they just took 1,800 from me. I just moved out here from Colorado, and i'm looking for a place I can trust that will actually do the work that needs to be done and not just give it their best guess and "repair something" to get the vehicle out of the shop.

As far as the option of doing the job myself; I took a look at the walkthough posted on this site. A little much for a guy that managed to botch-up replacing the solenoids on a '56 chevy.

I'd start with requesting the vin check from this website for the history and build sheet of the truck. By getting the history you can tell if the injectors have ever been replaced and when as long as they inputted it in the GM data base. Find someone in Washington that can throw a tech2 on it and check the balance rates. Can you get any print outs from the shop that did the diagnosis? Doing a return rate check is a big pain in the ass and so i doubt they did it. Can you tell if there is fuel in the oil?

As to weather they did a return rate check on it or not I am not sure, they did tell me they spent 8hr diagnosing it which I had them do for free since the fuel pump was not the problem. I didn't get any paperwork back from them, so no reports.

I'd need to read up on how to test for fuel in the oil, never done that before.

I've been checking other threads about injector replacements not lasting long, 50k or something like that. If that's true then what is the frickin point? I am expected to shell out 3,600 every 2 years to keep the truck running. Seriously?? I'm half tempted to have the horse slaughtered and sell it for prison food. Then we don't need the truck, problem solved.

If there is fuel in the oil it will eventually make its way out of the engine. Easy way is to get a white paper towel. Take out the dipstick and dab a drop onto the towel and see if there is a halo around the oil drop.

Is this truck smoking at idle?

I believe they diagnosed it as excess fuel in the return line, I know I have to manually prime the fuel pump if I want it to start. They said something about cracks in-between the supply and return. When I pressed them as to what needed to be done they said that the injectors needed to be changed. I don't think they used a tech2, also it was not a dealership that initially diagnosed the problem.

I have no idea why they thought it was the fuel pump, I won't be taking it back to that place, as far as i'm concerned they just took 1,800 from me. I just moved out here from Colorado, and i'm looking for a place I can trust that will actually do the work that needs to be done and not just give it their best guess and "repair something" to get the vehicle out of the shop.

As far as the option of doing the job myself; I took a look at the walkthough posted on this site. A little much for a guy that managed to botch-up replacing the solenoids on a '56 chevy.

If pumping the primer will make it start then I doubt injectors or your CP3 was the problem, but most likely a bad fuel filter base or a cracked fuel line going to the filter or pump. There are 5 rubber lines on the engine for the fuel system that are known to crack and let air in and cause a no start unless you prime the system first. From what you have described with being able to prime it and start it I would do those 5 rubber lines and replace the filter and see what that does. The rubber lines should be replaced anyways due to age, and this will eliminate them from the picture. The next step is to get some clear fuel line and find where air is getting into the fuel system.

Also, many trucks have made it over 150K miles on a set of injectors. Bosch has made several improvements to help with the life of the LB7 injectors. Anything built or rebuilt by Bosch after 1/09 is supposed to be better.

Fermanator has you covered, I will let him get you rolling.

I know it seems frustrating however, you still need to get it running to sell it or take a loss. Do some calling around and find out who has a tech2 or a snapon diagnostic tool and see if they can come by or get it towed to them. When you call them make sure you ask them how much experience they have with the LB7 Duramaxs. You can get injectors from GM direct for less than $2000 or other folks on this website can steer you in the right direction. Don't buy them from Pensecola though. Before you buy injectors though make sure it is the injectors first. If I was close I'd do them for you for cheap but I'm in SD.

As to weather they did a return rate check on it or not I am not sure, they did tell me they spent 8hr diagnosing it which I had them do for free since the fuel pump was not the problem. I didn't get any paperwork back from them, so no reports.

I'd need to read up on how to test for fuel in the oil, never done that before.

I've been checking other threads about injector replacements not lasting long, 50k or something like that. If that's true then what is the frickin point? I am expected to shell out 3,600 every 2 years to keep the truck running. Seriously?? I'm half tempted to have the horse slaughtered and sell it for prison food. Then we don't need the truck, problem solved.I will take the horse and pay more than any prison.

Haha yeah, I don't think I would still be getting married if anything happened to that horse.

I appreciate the advice, i'll be sure to try the oil fuel test first to see if there has been any fuel in the oil. I haven't noticed it smoking at idle but then again I live out here in the land of the wet so I will have to wait for one of those rare breaks in the weather where its not pouring outside. Good to hear there have been some improvements made in the injectors, I was starting to feel like this vehicle was a complete money pit.

Fermanator, that is certainly a different direction than the shop would have had me going. I'm really glad I posted on here, you guys are awesome. I'll be sure to follow your advice and get a proper diagnosis to see if there is a bad fuel filter base or cracked fuel line, and then use the clear line to see if/where any air is still getting in. I'll probably look through my repair receipts first and see if those hoses have been replaced at anytime recently, might be a loose connection as a result.

I am getting a real education here, if/when I do have to address the trucks injectors, I'll make sure they have a tech2 on site and plenty of experience with LB7's. I'll be doing some homework in the meantime for a reputable shop out here. Would love to know from anyone on this site if they have had experience with a shop in WA or know someone who can recommend a good place, having a mechanic you trust is worth his weight in gold.

Alright, guys. I found an good diesel shop around here so they have had the truck for a week now and are still a bit stumped. They are self admittedly not LB7 specialists but did their best to diagnose the issue. They ran a tech2 on it, no codes. Did a proper test on the oil, no fuel in it. Checked the fuel filter base and the fuel lines, looked good with the exception below.

So far they have been using the truck daily with no start up issues, unable to reproduce my start up problem. They were able to find a small leak by the fuel cooler on the return line. But it was so small they barely noticed it, but large enough that some dirt had built up. They said it might get worse but the cooler didn't need to be replaced at this time.

The certainly agreed with you guys on it not being a injector problem i'm wondering if any of you have had experience with these fuel coolers going bad or issues with leaks/cracks in the fuel return system. Fermenator suggested running clear lines, would that be the next step? If so specifically where.

Thanks again!
-cheech

Have them check what ferm suggested. You may also want to check the filter itself. I was stranded once because the filter was loose.

I just bought mine from Pensecola, what is wrong with them? I am having starting problems since they were installed.

I can not say they are BAD, but I have not found anyone saying they are happy with them. I had some interaction with them, they were polite and professional, but they claimed Bosch has made no improvements to these injectors. I have heard of a improved injector both on and off this board. For my own piece of mind I stayed away.

Cheech, Don't know if this post would be something that might apply to you, but it was my problem as related to losing prime.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=294902

Thanks Grey, I was beginning to feel like I'd hit a brick wall with this one. :banghead:

There is a shop In Enumclaw Wa, It's not to far from you, that I hear really good things about. It is called Percision Diesel & Equipment. (360) 825-4660
From the sounds of your problem I would really look into your fuel system as sugested in previous post and verify you are not getting air in the system.