My locker is in the mail. I am doing the install myself. For those of you guy's that have installed this, 1. What is the appoximate install time? 2. Are the instructions good? 3. Is there anything in perticular I should watch out, or be aware of? This is my only driver, except for a cycle, and I don't want to be caught with my pants down.

Let us know how it goes. I will be looking into installing one in the near to distant future:rolleyes:

Maybe you will get luck and it will be a direct bolt in. When I changed carriers in my old chevy 12bolt truck rear from the stock open to a Moroso Brute Strength carrier I didn't have to change any settings. The backlash tightened up a bit but the pattern was good so I went with it. 200+ runs at the track and she's still going.

I never worked on independent rears before so I am interested in your findings. Oh BTW, Great job in the Racine pull!!!:ro)

instructions included are for a rear diff install, just a paper inside that covers part of a front install. Most of it is on your own. Wiring is the same either way, but the install part is up to you as for included instructions......hope ya got carrier bearings too

instructions included are for a rear diff install, just a paper inside that covers part of a front install. Most of it is on your own. Wiring is the same either way, but the install part is up to you as for included instructions......hope ya got carrier bearings too

Are the new bearings a absoulte must? Do you by chance have the part #?
Do the bearings press on, or are they a slip fit?

Let us know how it goes. I will be looking into installing one in the near to distant future:rolleyes:

Maybe you will get luck and it will be a direct bolt in. When I changed carriers in my old chevy 12bolt truck rear from the stock open to a Moroso Brute Strength carrier I didn't have to change any settings. The backlash tightened up a bit but the pattern was good so I went with it. 200+ runs at the track and she's still going.

I never worked on independent rears before so I am interested in your findings. Oh BTW, Great job in the Racine pull!!!:ro)

I will definetily let everyone know how it went. Where you pulling in Racine, or just watching? After Moss and Hucksdorf said how much differance the locker made, I had to order it up. Here is the place I ordered it from, it was the cheapest I found. http://www.vandergear.com/E-Lockers/e-lockers.html

I was only watching, but I do have you caught on video!! Thanks for the link. I probably don't really need a locker since I don't pull and only go off road once in a while. It would seem good for drag racing because the front end would essentially be spooled. It should take more power to spin both front wheel as opposed to one. But I think some guys don't use it on the track, I don't know for sure.

Anywho, thanks again, good luck with the install.

I was only watching, but I do have you caught on video!! Thanks for the link. I probably don't really need a locker since I don't pull and only go off road once in a while. It would seem good for drag racing because the front end would essentially be spooled. It should take more power to spin both front wheel as opposed to one. But I think some guys don't use it on the track, I don't know for sure.

Anywho, thanks again, good luck with the install.

Do you have the entire diesel truck class on video? I would be more than happy to pay you for a copy of it.

How did the install turn out? I just got my eaton e locker in today and am looking into doing it this weekend. Did you do new bearings or use your old one's? Do you like how it works pro's or con's? Thanks ttyl Nate:ro)

Nate,

1) Get new bearings. They have to be pressed on. Pressing off the old ones and reusing them is shakey at best.

2) Be careful drilling the hole in the case for the wiring grommet. Smaller is better for a "tight no leak seal".

3) Be sure to hook up the harness to the plug at the carrier "before" bolting the whole thing up into the truck. It's much easier to get to the plug and route the wiring this way.

4) I dropped the steering assembly out of the way for easier access. I unbolted the tie rods from the spindles and the center link from the pitman and idler arms. While it is out, it would be a great time to replace with the Fabtech idler and pitman arms, tie rod ends and/or Super Diesel center link and sleeves.

5) FYI, I took my center section to a rear end shop to have the bearings pressed on and the gears set up, so I can't offer and advise as far as that aspect goes.

Hope this helps! :D

Good luck!

How did the install turn out? I just got my eaton e locker in today and am looking into doing it this weekend. Did you do new bearings or use your old one's? Do you like how it works pro's or con's? Thanks ttyl Nate:ro)

I didn't end up doing the locker install itself. I found you need special tools to set the backlashes and stuff. I did not get new bearings, I had the old ones REM finished, along with the ring and pinion. The only other thing I bought was new seals. I paid $250 for install, this included amsoil gear lube. The guy I had build it, has been doing axles, trannies, and transfer cases for truck pullers for 30 years, so I trusted him pretty well.

DMAXLOVER,
Yea I have the whole class on video, with the exception of a few ratty looking fords. And I missed the very very start of Marks first run because he wasn't supposed to go yet!! :) According to the anouncer. I recently just moved back to Jersey so I haven't had much time to fool with my video editing. PM me.

FI, when you get a chance to do some editing, let me know I'll give you my address and send you a check, or I can pay you with paypal.

same here too jason

I will definetily let everyone know how it went. Where you pulling in Racine, or just watching? After Moss and Hucksdorf said how much differance the locker made, I had to order it up. Here is the place I ordered it from, it was the cheapest I found. http://www.vandergear.com/E-Lockers/e-lockers.html

Which one did you get? I know I'm showing my ignorance here but is it the one w/o #of bolt holes and 9.5" ring gear? If so, why don't they just say in () (front)? Also, does anyone know for sure if it'll work on the 05's?

Jason,

you move home from WI and didn't even bother to say goodbye, I'm hurt.....

Which one did you get? I know I'm showing my ignorance here but is it the one w/o #of bolt holes and 9.5" ring gear? If so, why don't they just say in () (front)? Also, does anyone know for sure if it'll work on the 05's?

the part # is 9684-010 I don't know for sure, but I'm willing to bet the locker will fit a 2005. To be honest, I didn't notice a night and day differance with the locker.

I installed mine myself in a few hours. I wanted a front elocker for off road use. I have had it for almost two years now, and have been pleased with it.

I got the new carrier bearings instead of trying to mess with pressing the old ones off and back on. The left shaft just pulls out of the old differential. This had me confused at first because I thought there was something that had to be removed before it would come out.

the part # is 9684-010 I don't know for sure, but I'm willing to bet the locker will fit a 2005. To be honest, I didn't notice a night and day differance with the locker.

are you sure it's not the 19622-010 for the front? And if it's for the front is there any additional parts/ bearings that are needed?

are you sure it's not the 19622-010 for the front? And if it's for the front is there any additional parts/ bearings that are needed?

You are correct. 19622-010 is the correct part #. Carrier bearings aren't a must, but if you don't have a puller to remove the old ones, I'd buy a new set.
This is where I bought mine http://www.vandergear.com/E-Lockers/e-lockers.html