hbains
02-13-2010, 08:21 PM
The problem all started after I got my gauges installed. I drove my truck in the afternoon and when I went to start it that evening it just clicked. It was dead. I jump started it the next day and it ran fine all day. The next day it was dead again. At this point we realized the problem was either a short or bad batteries. Well we left the batteries disconnected for 4 days to see and sure enough when we put the cables back on the truck fired right up. When we disconnected the batteries the hot cable on the second battery we disconnected sparked a lot. Any input on what is going on will be very helpful as I need the truck back ASAP. Thank you
jettech
02-14-2010, 02:01 AM
You need to eliminate what you just said you did when the problem started. Your gauges. What kind of connections did they require, 12 volts for operation, lighting ? Maybe you hooked up to an always hot 12v source instead of a switched 12v source.
hbains
02-14-2010, 02:33 AM
i hooked up my electrical pyro gauge to a switched power source in the driver side fuse panel with a tap a fuse and my mechanical boost gauge lighting is hooked up to the brown and white dimmer wire in the electrical panel near the brake pedal. All gauges and the dimmer switch are grounded with the same bolt in the driver side door jamb. The gauge lights turn off with the truck's lights and the gauges both turn off with the key. None of the 2 gauges move when the key is off. When the key is turned to the run position both gauges go to 0 and reset themselves.