So Im on a mission to install my autometer cobalt boost and pyro guages and have a few questions about wiring.

1. I bought a fuse tap at napa and think I connect the red power wire on the pyro to that but was wondering about the boost power do I run that to the fuse or to the brown/white wire behind the headlight switch?
2. Also I know basically nothing about doing electrical work and wanted to know how do I connect both boost and pyro (Can I consolidate these?) to the brown white wire to dim the lights? Pics would really help here!
3. My boost guage didnt come with any wires so what kind of wire do I need to buy?

Like I said Im not electrical savvy AT ALL! So use of elementary answers is appreciated. Thanks!

1. You should run power wires for both gauges to an IGN source so the lights only come on with the key ( I always use a separate switch to turn them on, they dont come on with the lights )

2. You can wire them together, they dont draw much power, but mind you that the Cobalt gauges are LED IIRC so you wont be able to dim them if hooked to the dash dimmer switch. I THINK you need to buy the LED dimmer that Autometer sells

3. 18ga wire will work, you can go 16 or 14 if you want.

do a search for gauges... definitely will help.

The link is for installing gauges in the overhead console but will help get you organized and oriented.

http://www.bmdmax.com/Gauges.html.0.html

Thanks I already printed out the guage hotness guide and have read a ton of threads but the only way I really learn is by visualizing so I drew up this little picture for further clarification. So Now that I need the guage dimmer from autometer since mine are LEDs it kind of throws off my drawing, but I see that the dimmer has 3 wires coming out of it and if anybody could refer to my drawing to explain to me how those tie in that would be great.
Thanks

Ok I looked up the instructions for the dimmer and updated my preschool diagram :D

Does this look right?

Ok I looked up the instructions for the dimmer and updated my preschool diagram :D

Does this look right?

That looks right.

I had to buy two dimmers, one for each gauge, when I did the Autometer gauge install.

tytan, So you couldnt just splice the two white wires from the guages to the white wire from the dimmer?

click quickly (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/search.php?searchid=8286755)

the search will expire soon.

Like I said before Ive searched alot just need answers according to my drawing its how I can conceptualize it and its what works for me. Oh and I can do without any more "Just Search" suggestions thanks though underlord you've been a huge help:D

tytan, So you couldnt just splice the two white wires from the guages to the white wire from the dimmer?

It's been a while and I can't remember exactly why I needed two dimmers. I do remember trying one and going back for the second. I have a vague memory of the lights in the two gauges being different intensity so I think I used the two dimmers to make both gauges even. I have mine on the A pillar and found them way too bright at night if illuminated at full brightness.

Try one dimmer and see what you think, worst case you go get a second.

Cool I appreciate the info tytan, Thanks!

For your LB7, you can combine both light wires and tie them into the dimmer switch wire (brown with white trace). If you're using LED gauges, go to Radio Shack and pick up a pack of 330 ohm resistors and add one right before attaching it to the dimmer wire. Then you can combine both grounds, and I usually ground them to the stud that holds the dash to the a-pillar. The keyed 12v source I use is the SEO ACCY 10 amp fuse in the fuse box on the drivers side of the dash.

Here are a couple of pictures

Keyed 12v source
http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee60/ADPLV/100_0883-1.jpg

Dimmer Wire
http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee60/ADPLV/Familyandtruck133-1.jpg

Ground Location
http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee60/ADPLV/100_0881.jpg

Pyro Tap
http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee60/ADPLV/100_0163-2.jpg

Boost Tap Location
http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee60/ADPLV/DSCN0893-1.jpg

dang I thought the only way you could dim LED's is with the autometer dimmer, Oh well I ordered it and its on its way already so Ill just use the dimmer. Chad, does the second diagram I posted up look correct?

If the autometer dimmer has a seperate diming knob than it is right if not then you you would want to wire to your dash dimmer. I know leds have a diffrent resistance so that is why you need a diffrent module. I personally would want all lights to dim at the same time JMO.

dang I thought the only way you could dim LED's is with the autometer dimmer, Oh well I ordered it and its on its way already so Ill just use the dimmer. Chad, does the second diagram I posted up look correct?

I've been using the resistors for years now, and my LED DiPricols dim right along with the dash lights. I've used them on all types of LED gauges as well.

The diagram looks correct.

Yea the autometer dimmer has an adjustable knob. Id like them to all dim at the same time too but I think i may have gotten it figured out and just wanna get the damn things in so I can stop scratching my head over this. :confused::D

The link is for installing gauges in the overhead console but will help get you organized and oriented.

http://www.bmdmax.com/Gauges.html.0.html

Who sells these? I want one!

Is that schematic the same as for an LBZ?

I researched those mini pigtail fuses.. Like 8 dollars a piece.. Wow, anything cheaper?

Big mike, that gauge mount is sold by socal diesel heres the link:


http://www.socaldiesel.com/Gauge.htm

I'm a little unclear about this schematic. My electrical knowledge is pretty limited. My question is why does their need to be two positive leads from the fuse tap, going to the dimmer and also the pyro gauge. I would think that one positive lead would go to the dimmer, and then it would split after that and lead to the two gauges. It also shows that, so basically what I'm asking is why is the positive leading directly to the pyro gauge, bypassing the dimmer, necessary?

On Edit: I think I answered my own question. The pyro gauge uses an electronic sensor, so obviously it needs a separate power feed :banghead:. Is that correct?

I researched those mini pigtail fuses.. Like 8 dollars a piece.. Wow, anything cheaper?

You have fiddy grand wrapped up in your rig and you are worried about an 8 dollar fuse tap? :confused:

I got my guages done today and everything is working great! So thanks to bmdmax and hoot for the guidance and chad from Alligator Diesel for the goods. Thanks!