My current oil pressure (at idle) has now dropped to 10lbs and below at idle and is near impossible to crank unless it's plugged in so I bought a military 6.2. I don't want to be working on this thing again anytime soon so what do I need to look at, check, gauge, replace now to ensure that this motor will last a little while? My current motor has leaking valve covers and rear main so I know I will be replacing these with the best I can find and DSG's stud girdle kit since I am running an ATS turbo kit. I do run this motor a little harder than most since it's turning 37" tires. Also I recently replaced the IP and injectors so I should probably put mine on the new motor right?
Any ideas, experiences, or suggestions are appreciated.

you might wanna spin the motor up and see the compression it has.
pull the timing cover and check for play on the chain, if it's loose, replace the gears and chain.
pull ALL THE STUPID PLASTIC BUTTONS OUT OF THE ROCKER SHAFT AND REPLACE THEM!!!
while you are in there, verify all the lifters are intact (if the rockers are not loose, they should be ok)
you might wanna pull the starter and verify it's in good shape at a rebuilder shop. but that may require replacement anyway due to the 24v possibility on military rigs...
if you are putting on stud girdle, you may as well pull the bearings and mic the crank... inspect the rods etc...

your oil pressure was checked with mech gauge right?

mine cranks like a SOB as well, but i have plenty of oil pressure.

what temp are you trying to start it? direct drive starter?

I have a mech oil gauge, a MGP controller, and a new GR starter with 4/0 welding lead and when it's cold <40 F I will have to crank on it until I think the starter is going to burn up before it starts. I did recently replace my block heater and now it starts right up in the morning but after sitting all day at work, it's back to cranking on it before it will start. Another thing I noticed is that after the heater has been plugged in for a little while it sounds like it is boiling water in the motor. It is only a 600 watt heater, shouldit be doing that?

How do I check the compression? What should the compression be? I am fairly mechanical but most experience has been as parts changer.

I have a mech oil gauge, a MGP controller, and a new GR starter with 4/0 welding lead and when it's cold <40 F I will have to crank on it until I think the starter is going to burn up before it starts. I did recently replace my block heater and now it starts right up in the morning but after sitting all day at work, it's back to cranking on it before it will start. Another thing I noticed is that after the heater has been plugged in for a little while it sounds like it is boiling water in the motor. It is only a 600 watt heater, shouldit be doing that?

Yes

How do I check the compression? What should the compression be? I am fairly mechanical but most experience has been as parts changer.

You need a Diesel compression tester that has an adapter that screws into the glow plug hole.

Compression should be around 350-400 PSI with all the glow plugs removed, about 5-6 ticks on the gauge.

Just so I am clear, remove all the GP's and then test each cylinder one at a time? Any particular way I should spin the motor over, by hand, or ???? I guess compression would be the same regardless of how fast the motor is turning?

Thanks for the info.

I spin the engine over, using the starter and a HD shop battery charger to maintain a constant voltage and cranking speed. I count six "puffs" as I watch the needle for deflection, stop, read the gauge, write it down and move to the next cylinder.

Cranking speed must be consistant, as well as the number of "puffs", to get a comparable reading. I've heard other techs say, "use your leakdown tester". I don't because the Dykes ring design of the diesel requires a bit more pressure to properly seal and my leakdown tester won't handle the necessary input pressure.

A good compression gauge will work for comparison, you're looking for low cylinders, compared to good cylinders.

Sounds like you have a glow plug issue more than a compression issue.

I thought about the GP's I replaced them about 6 years ago and I am not sure which ones, I just told the parts guy I needed some GP's. The new motor will get the Bosch GP's. But that does not explain the decreasing oil pressure. Since I am running a turbo set-up, should I replace the oil pump with a higher volume pump to compensate for the turbo?

I would buy all new glow plugs and go from there. Gp are cheap 6 years is a long time

Cranking speed must be consistant, as well as the number of "puffs", to get a comparable reading. I've heard other techs say, "use your leakdown tester". I don't because the Dykes ring design of the diesel requires a bit more pressure to properly seal and my leakdown tester won't handle the necessary input pressure.

A compression tester has a schrader valve in the end to prevent pressure drainback, a leak down tester does not, using a leakdown tester will drop pressure between comp. srokes.

Don't forget that all compression numbers should be no greater than 10% between min and max.

I would like to point out to everyone that the OP has decided to scrap his current engine. It seems like folks here want to troubleshoot that engine - he has a replacement already, he's asking for advice on that replacement, and any advice on how to fix his current engine is just getting people here confused.

I thought about the GP's I replaced them about 6 years ago and I am not sure which ones, I just told the parts guy I needed some GP's. The new motor will get the Bosch GP's. But that does not explain the decreasing oil pressure. Since I am running a turbo set-up, should I replace the oil pump with a higher volume pump to compensate for the turbo?

turbo has a restricter built into the center housing to keep presure up. when i put my GM-3 turbo on my engine the oil presure never changed at all. and my OPS is mounted right next to the turbo so its getting the absolute presure.

Hi, if you are going to do a compression test on your new engine, please be sure also to disconnect the power wire to your injection pump before cranking (noooo don't want motor to start now.....):eek:

We change our glow plugs every two years, and inspect bi-yearly(spring and fall), use anti-seize for installation.:cool:

This has come up last week, the minimum oil pressure for these motors is 10psi at idle. IMO, anything below 15psi at idle is getting into danger zone....:eek:

So yes: any extra oil demand should be compensated for with higher volume oil pump:D

The ATS turbo kit is designed so that the oil return line is going into the valve cover on the passenger side. I am a little worried about the hot oil being dumped into that head on a constant basis. What do ya'll think? I currently have it dumping into a fuel pump block off plate but it is not a very good set up because the discharge is facing the firewall of the truck which means it is looped halfway around the world before reaching the plate.

as long as it doesn't leak, you are happy with it, and it is all down hill from the turbo to the fuel pump plate...then I think that your oil return is fine. Not to mention that the oil..if it is that incredibly hot..has a chance to cool off some before going back into the block from the air that moves around your return line.

as long as it doesn't leak, you are happy with it, and it is all down hill from the turbo to the fuel pump plate...then I think that your oil return is fine. Not to mention that the oil..if it is that incredibly hot..has a chance to cool off some before going back into the block from the air that moves around your return line.

X2:D We are dumping our turbo return line into valve cover, just fabbed a deflector inside of cover direct to return passage.

Always been intrigued by the military motors, but they are not supposed to be sold to us up north....:rolleyes:

Hoping yours turns out real good for you, keep us posted and send some pics.