'95 Z-71 4x4 with many codes.... [Archive] - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

: '95 Z-71 4x4 with many codes....


D2 Cat
02-09-2010, 12:22 AM
I just acquired this truck as a project to eventually put a snow plow on for next winter. The truck has been polished on the outside, neglected with anything costing much money mechanically---that's why it was sold.

So: It has oil in the engine, antifreeze in the cooling system! With 5 gals. of diesel in tank and the batteries charged, I got fuel out the cap at the fuel filter. I did replace the OPS and switched out the FP relay and PMD from a running truck--no start.

Checked codes: 18,35,44,45,49,54,62,81,82,83.

Looking at what those numbers represent, do I need an IP? I was planning on getting it to a reliable state and replacing IP, injectors, and GP's. I should probably check the compression before I purchase too many parts to make sure I'll have an engine when I'm done.

I'm open to all the help and suggestions you offer. Thanks.

tanman_2006
02-09-2010, 01:07 PM
Checking the Compression is always a good thing to check before throwing too much money at parts. I know code 18 refers to the IP, my truck threw a few weeks ago and now I have a rebuilt IP about to get put on.

Fill out the check list in the stickies and people will be more likely to help. (Just copy/paste it). If it has been neglected as you say there could be all kinds of problems.

lifteddiesel
02-09-2010, 01:34 PM
Use a jumper (paperclip, etc) to connect these terminals. The connection/removal of the jumper between terminals (A&B) should be done with the ignition switch OFF. Also to prevent potential volt spike to PCM remove clip with Key OFF also.Once jumper is installed then turn key to on/run (not full start) to begin the flashing sequence


The Service Engine Soon light will flash Code 12 three times to indicate that the diagnostics are working. Trouble codes will then follow, one at a time, three times each. DTC 12 will only appear if there are no other codes.


2 The codes appear in numerical order, and each code repeats itself three times before the next begins. This is different from some other ECM's.


3. It is helpful to the diagnostic process to know when codes are setting, particularly if there is more than one. Hence, clearing the codes is something you may wish to do. Clearing the codes may be accomplished by simultaneously depressing the brake and accelerator pedals fully while the PCM is in diagnostic mode (terminals A and B connected). It will not appear that you have cleared the codes until the next time you power up in diagnostic mode, however.







DTC 13 - Engine Shutoff Solenoid Circuit Fault
DTC 14 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Circuit Low (High Temp)
DTC 15 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Circuit High (Low Temp)
DTC 16 - Vehicle Speed Sensor Buffer Fault
DTC 17 - High Resolution Circuit Fault
DTC 18 - Pump Cam Reference Pulse Error
DTC 19 - Crankshaft Position Reference Error
DTC 21 - Accelerator Pedal Position 1 Circuit High
DTC 22 - Accelerator Pedal Position 1 Circuit Low
DTC 23 - Accelerator Pedal Position 1 Circuit Range Fault
DTC 24 - Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit Low (Output Speed Signal)
DTC 25 - Accelerator Pedal Position 2 Circuit High
DTC 26 - Accelerator Pedal Position 2 Circuit Low
DTC 27 - Accelerator Pedal Position 2 Circuit Range Fault
DTC 28 - Transmission Range Pressure Switch Circuit
DTC 29 - Glow Plug Relay Fault
DTC 31 - EGR Control Pressure/Baro Sensor Circuit Low (High Vacuum)
DTC 32 - EGR Circuit Error
DTC 33 - EGR Control Pressure/Baro Sensor Circuit High
DTC 34 - Injection Timing Stepper Motor Fault
DTC 35 - Injection Pulse Width Error (Time Short)
DTC 36 - Injection Pulse Width Error (Time Long)
DTC 37 - TCC Brake Switch Stuck "ON"
DTC 38 - TCC Brake Switch Stuck "OFF"
DTC 39 - TCC Stuck "OFF"
DTC 41 - Brake Switch Circuit Fault
DTC 42 - Fuel Temperature Circuit Low (High Temp)
DTC 43 - Fuel Temperature Circuit High (Low Temp)
DTC 44 - EGR Pulse Width Error
DTC 45 - EGR Vent Error
DTC 46 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Circuit Fault
DTC 47 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit Low (High Temp )
DTC 48 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit High (Low Temp )
DTC 49 - Service Throttle Soon Lamp Circuit Fault
DTC 51 - PROM Error
DTC 52 - System Voltage High Long
DTC 53 - System Voltage High
DTC 54 - PCM fuel circuit error
DTC 56 - Injection Pump Calibration Resistor Error
DTC 57 - PCM 5 Volt Shorted
DTC 58 - Transmission Fluid Temp Circuit Low
DTC 59 - Transmission Fluid Temp Circuit High
DTC 61 - Turbo Boost Sensor Circuit High
DTC 62 - Turbo Boost Sensor Circuit Low
DTC 63 - Accelerator Pedal Position 3 Circuit High
DTC 64 - Accelerator Pedal Position 3 Circuit Low
DTC 65 - Accelerator Pedal Position 3 Circuit Range Fault
DTC 68 - Transmission Component Slipping
DTC 69 - TCC Stuck "ON"
DTC 71 - Set/Coast Switch Fault (Cruise Control)
DTC 72 - Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit Loss (Output Speed Signal)
DTC 73 - Pressure Control Solenoid Circuit (Current Error)
DTC 74 - Transmission Input Speed (TIS) Sensor Circuit


DTC 75 - System Voltage Low
DTC 76 - Resume/Accel Switch Fault (Cruise Control)
DTC 78 -Turbo Wastegate Solenoid Fault

bk95td
02-09-2010, 01:51 PM
Are they current or historical codes? Did you use a paper clip or a scan tool? With a paper clip I believe all codes are flashed on the check engine light. A scan tool will seperate them. Have you cleaned every ground? Checked all fuses? It's good to due the free stuff first. That many codes can be a sign of a bad pcm. The bad part is you have to check all the sensors to know for shure[My 95 2500LD did this with a near new reman ecm]. The only scan tools that work on the 94-95 6.5 diesels are :Tech 1, Tech 2, or gmtdscantech software from engh motors. The sensors can all be tested individually with a multimeter. If you plan on keeping the truck, You might want to look on e-bay or other book sites for a factory service manual set or subscribe to Alldata. The troubleshooting in them is worth every penny.

tanman_2006
02-09-2010, 03:52 PM
Use a jumper (paperclip, etc) to connect these terminals. The connection/removal of the jumper between terminals (A&B) should be done with the ignition switch OFF. Also to prevent potential volt spike to PCM remove clip with Key OFF also.Once jumper is installed then turn key to on/run (not full start) to begin the flashing sequence


The Service Engine Soon light will flash Code 12 three times to indicate that the diagnostics are working. Trouble codes will then follow, one at a time, three times each. DTC 12 will only appear if there are no other codes.


2 The codes appear in numerical order, and each code repeats itself three times before the next begins. This is different from some other ECM's.


3. It is helpful to the diagnostic process to know when codes are setting, particularly if there is more than one. Hence, clearing the codes is something you may wish to do. Clearing the codes may be accomplished by simultaneously depressing the brake and accelerator pedals fully while the PCM is in diagnostic mode (terminals A and B connected). It will not appear that you have cleared the codes until the next time you power up in diagnostic mode, however.







DTC 13 - Engine Shutoff Solenoid Circuit Fault
DTC 14 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Circuit Low (High Temp)
DTC 15 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Circuit High (Low Temp)
DTC 16 - Vehicle Speed Sensor Buffer Fault
DTC 17 - High Resolution Circuit Fault
DTC 18 - Pump Cam Reference Pulse Error
DTC 19 - Crankshaft Position Reference Error
DTC 21 - Accelerator Pedal Position 1 Circuit High
DTC 22 - Accelerator Pedal Position 1 Circuit Low
DTC 23 - Accelerator Pedal Position 1 Circuit Range Fault
DTC 24 - Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit Low (Output Speed Signal)
DTC 25 - Accelerator Pedal Position 2 Circuit High
DTC 26 - Accelerator Pedal Position 2 Circuit Low
DTC 27 - Accelerator Pedal Position 2 Circuit Range Fault
DTC 28 - Transmission Range Pressure Switch Circuit
DTC 29 - Glow Plug Relay Fault
DTC 31 - EGR Control Pressure/Baro Sensor Circuit Low (High Vacuum)
DTC 32 - EGR Circuit Error
DTC 33 - EGR Control Pressure/Baro Sensor Circuit High
DTC 34 - Injection Timing Stepper Motor Fault
DTC 35 - Injection Pulse Width Error (Time Short)
DTC 36 - Injection Pulse Width Error (Time Long)
DTC 37 - TCC Brake Switch Stuck "ON"
DTC 38 - TCC Brake Switch Stuck "OFF"
DTC 39 - TCC Stuck "OFF"
DTC 41 - Brake Switch Circuit Fault
DTC 42 - Fuel Temperature Circuit Low (High Temp)
DTC 43 - Fuel Temperature Circuit High (Low Temp)
DTC 44 - EGR Pulse Width Error
DTC 45 - EGR Vent Error
DTC 46 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Circuit Fault
DTC 47 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit Low (High Temp )
DTC 48 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit High (Low Temp )
DTC 49 - Service Throttle Soon Lamp Circuit Fault
DTC 51 - PROM Error
DTC 52 - System Voltage High Long
DTC 53 - System Voltage High
DTC 54 - PCM fuel circuit error
DTC 56 - Injection Pump Calibration Resistor Error
DTC 57 - PCM 5 Volt Shorted
DTC 58 - Transmission Fluid Temp Circuit Low
DTC 59 - Transmission Fluid Temp Circuit High
DTC 61 - Turbo Boost Sensor Circuit High
DTC 62 - Turbo Boost Sensor Circuit Low
DTC 63 - Accelerator Pedal Position 3 Circuit High
DTC 64 - Accelerator Pedal Position 3 Circuit Low
DTC 65 - Accelerator Pedal Position 3 Circuit Range Fault
DTC 68 - Transmission Component Slipping
DTC 69 - TCC Stuck "ON"
DTC 71 - Set/Coast Switch Fault (Cruise Control)
DTC 72 - Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit Loss (Output Speed Signal)
DTC 73 - Pressure Control Solenoid Circuit (Current Error)
DTC 74 - Transmission Input Speed (TIS) Sensor Circuit


DTC 75 - System Voltage Low
DTC 76 - Resume/Accel Switch Fault (Cruise Control)
DTC 78 -Turbo Wastegate Solenoid Fault


Yeah, that will get you close!

95k2500hd
02-09-2010, 06:57 PM
You have a picture of terminal A&B man?? so i know where to plug the paperclip into

mamzerook
02-09-2010, 07:34 PM
You have a picture of terminal A&B man?? so i know where to plug the paperclip into
Its is all in the stickies. click the faq link in my sig.

D2 Cat
02-09-2010, 08:42 PM
I went to the "stickies" and got the info. to retrieve the codes. That's how I got the ones I posted.

bk95td, I'd have to say they are NOT current codes since I have not had the engine running. I did see the "sticky" on the importance of clean grounds. I need to do that. I also need to do a complete checkup of the fuel system. I think there is a leak of diesel as it sets. I will do a visual inspection underneath, then check the fuel monitor area for leaks.

lifteddiesel, If I clear the codes what will I do next? The engine is not running.

I'll go find the problem list to cut and paste. Thanks

ak diesel drive
02-09-2010, 09:14 PM
First thing is to get it started. I did not see any mention of OPS replacement. Also if it has not been running in awhile it might be hard to get started. I have a newly acquired 94 that I had to use ether on to get it to start. Just be careful to do it right takes 2 people one to crank and 1 to spray very small mists while cranking. DON'T overdo it. ALSO DISCONNECT THE GLOWS. When I finally got mine to start I had a huge cloud of black smoke so I suspect it was flooded from diesel.

D2 Cat
02-09-2010, 10:13 PM
1. Describe the problem you are having in detail: Engine cranks, does not start.

2. Year of truck/engine. 1995, 6.5L turbo
3. Odometer reading (indicate miles or kilometers). 226,000 miles
4. Indicate the model number on the Injection pump (starts DS4 or DB2......).
5. Indicate if you know if it’s a 1500, 2500, 2500HD, 3500, 3500HD. 1500
6. Do you have an EGR on the engine? (An F or an S engine code 8th VIN digit) yes, it's an "S"
7. Air Filter condition (visual check). Good, I cleaned it.
8. Fuel filter condition (freshly changed, mileage since changed). Changed within 200 miles
9. Location of PMD/FSD? (ex. on pump/remote over intake, behind bumper). stock, on IP
9a. If remote mounted, describe wiring harness (homemade or purchased from which vendor).
9b. Indicate the location and condition of the FSD/IP grounding wire. ? need to locate & check
10. Outside Temperature (C or F). 35 °F

11. Service Engine Light while running?- on/off/intermittent Only light I saw is SERVICE THROTTLE SOON
11a. Service Engine light does glow during start/cranking/bulb check: Yes
12.Have you scanned for engine codes? Yes, by connecting A & B with a clip
12a. List exact results on engine codes. 18,35,44,45,47,54,62,81,82,83

13. Condition of Battery terminals (removed, cleaned and tightened).OK, I removed, cleaned and tightened
14. Known condition and age of Batteries. Batteries load tested OK
14a. Are batteries a matched set of same age? yes
15. Condition of Major Grounds (removed, cleaned and tightened)-----have not checked or cleaned

16. Does engine crank, or "turn over"? yes

16a. Does engine start and run? no

17. If engine does not start- Crack injector line: do you have fuel? have not checked

18. Does your Wait To Start light come on? yes

18a.Number of seconds WTS light is lit. not sure

19. Engine Cranking speed (if you have an accurate tachometer). Don't know exactly, but fast enough for a diesel to start.

20. Are you experiencing Stalling?

20a. Describe the event (upon startup only, down the road, hit a bump, etc...)
20b. Do you notice loss of dash or instruments?

21. Check turbo inlet and air filter for obstructions. not done yet
22. In a no-hot start, pour a bottle of room-temp water on the injection pump. Does it start now?

23. Lift pump test - Removed connection, applied 12 volts to pump, pump pumped fuel to fuel filter. Air was in line, tank was empty. I added 5 gal. diesel, bled air at filter ftg. Need to repeat and open Injectors.

24. Upon cold start, does the radiator hose get hard quickly?
25. Upon cold start, do you have excessive white smoke? Previous owner said yes, I have not had engine running.
26. Do you have excessive cranking time before the engine starts?

27. Have you used the block heater? Does it affect engine starting? block heater works, when plugged in for a few hours did not start.

28. Are all glow plugs in proper working order? have not checked

29. During hard acceleration, do you have excessive black smoke?
30. Do you have any unusual exhaust smoke issues?
31. Turbo check out - Pass/Fail

32. Indicate fuel that you are using: #2 Diesel
32a. If running Veggie Oil fuel setup, indicate details of your conversion (homemade or packaged system).
33. Are you using any fuel additives? If so, please list. PO used howel (sp)
34. Upon unscrewing fuel cap, do you have a large vacuum formed in the tank? Yes/No

35. Do you have any service history available that might pertain to the problem you are having? PO said, with no evidence supported with receipts, engine replaced 40,000 miles ago.(did not say the condition of the replacement engine, being rebuilt, or what. New PMD which is there mounted on the IP. New lift pump. PO says it ran fine until the weather started getting colder (in Nov) then it seemed to be losing power, and then stall. She said,"I thought it was a fuel delivery problem, because it was running perfectly until the moment it cut out, so I replaced the fuel lift pump and the filter. it stated up, I let it warm up for about 15 min., then about five min. into the drive it stalled and cut out again. It would turn over and start, but not stay running long enough to drive. I had it towed home. I want to sell this truck and get and unleaded truck." Those were her last words!

36. Please indicate any modifications to the vehicle that might help us diagnose better.

ak diesel drive
02-09-2010, 10:45 PM
sounds like pmd you need to check all those things that you said you haven't checked. Too many things left unchecked to accurately diagnos

D2 Cat
02-09-2010, 11:02 PM
I failed to mention I did replace the OPS.

When the key is ON I don't have any lift pump. Is that a function of the LP relay? Then, after the engine starts the OPS powers the LP? If this is true I need to check the relay.

When I tried to start the engine I had a third battery setting on the ground supplying power to the LP, so the relay wasn't required if it was going to start---it didn't!!

ak diesel drive
02-09-2010, 11:26 PM
on a 95 you only get lift pump operation during cranking and after it starts the ops takes over

D2 Cat
02-09-2010, 11:44 PM
Thanks for the clarity. I think I still need to check the relay. I don't think I had LP buzzing when in the start position (when the supplemental battery was NOT hooked up) and using the trucks electrical system.

Question: On this Chev the LP produces 4-5 PSI when it's functioning at it's best. I have a couple LP's (Carter brand) off of Cummins engines that put out 7-9 PSI and are considered failures. If I needed to replace LP's why couldn't I use one of those? I know I would have to modify the connections, but I would probably replace the entire fuel line with hose from the tank to the Fuel Monitor.

D2 Cat
02-12-2010, 09:26 PM
Back to basics. I do not have any power to the LP. I inserted a jumper wire into OBD1 pin G (bottom left)-----still no power. The LP is functional. I know this because a couple days ago I used a separate battery to jumper in and it pumps fuel.

I don't have a schematic to trace the LP wiring. Is this lack of power an indication of a faulty PMD?

Maybe I just need to run an independent wire down to the LP at least until I can get the fuel lines from taking in air, then go back to getting the wiring to the LP correct?

Anyone got some ideas? Thanks.

D2 Cat
02-12-2010, 09:35 PM
Where does the fuel supply line (hose) that goes into the Fuel Manager connect to the steel line that goes back to the LP? Does it slide over the steel line with a clamp or is it a hose barb with a threaded connection?

I'm thinking about removing the fuel manager and checking all the seals and replacing all the lines attached to the fuel manager. Inserting a clear line to the IP to observe bubbles. I have a Geno's big line kit for a Cummins I may add to go back to the LP.

ak diesel drive
02-12-2010, 10:48 PM
you can put a clear line on the return coming out of the IP to check for air bubbles. Much easier to get to.

D2 Cat
02-12-2010, 11:24 PM
Ok, thanks. I have not paid any attention to the return lines. Does it come out of the IP and go over to the injector top and "T" to the next injector, etc., working it's way back to the tank?

crankme69
02-12-2010, 11:30 PM
On my 95 I can easily verify the LP relay fuse by placing the gear shift in drive & holding turning the ignition switch to the start position & listening for the LP to kick on...obviously with the motor off!

D2 Cat
02-12-2010, 11:41 PM
Hummmm....gear shift in drive. I guess that's easy enough to try. I tried to see if the LP would energize but I left the trans. in park and turned the key to the start position. That's when I had no response.

crankme69
02-13-2010, 12:05 AM
Hummmm....gear shift in drive. I guess that's easy enough to try. I tried to see if the LP would energize but I left the trans. in park and turned the key to the start position. That's when I had no response.

It should have started like that also, just hard for me at my age to hear it running while the starter is engaged at the same time. It's the same way I prime my fuel filter after a change.

D2 Cat
02-14-2010, 10:27 PM
I think I found the fuel leak. I removed the fuel monitor to inspect and clean. Cap on filter was not tight. Filter looked new (PO said they changed it). O-ring at WIF sensor was not tight. I replaced it. Inside of container looked like a mud-dobbers nest had been dropped in it just before the filter was inserted!! Bottom seal at the fuel heater looked OK. I removed, cleaned and added a touch of Permatex #2 to both sides and replaced.

I installed the filter, screwed lid on tight. I could not blow air through it when I played it like a trumpet, so it must be good for 5 PSI.

Now, how can I get power to the LP? I inserted a wire from the battery to the "G" terminal at the OBD block. NO LP working. Where do the power to the LP come from?

I'm considering bypassing OPS, relay, and everything else by going directly to the battery for power and then I can fill and prime the fuel monitor and see if this beast needs more attention or will start.

jetech1
02-14-2010, 11:52 PM
Did you try turning the key to the crank position with the truck in gear to check if the LP pumps? That is how I prime my fuel system after a filter change to bleed it. The OPS shouldn't have anything to do with the truck not starting. It comes into play by making a circuit thru the oil press switch as soon as oil press comes up...taking over from the FP relay during crank

D2 Cat
02-22-2010, 10:29 PM
Just as a follow up, on a '95 you do not get power to the lift pump on terminal "G". It's at terminal "F", top row far left position.

D2 Cat
03-25-2010, 10:00 PM
Another follow up. I got the injectors, gp's, return lines, IPS and fuel relay replaced, Starts and runs like a top.

Now I need to replace the driver door latch. Door won't shut very good and I've replace the bushings and pins, and adjusted the door some.

What do I need to do to get the door panel off? I've got the two screws out of the holes where you pull the door shut. I've got the clips loose. How do I get the piece where the door handle is out?

Then I have to check out the heater. It won't quit!!! I had to drive today with the pass. window down some. There is no off even when the dial is completely counter-clock wise. The blower also does not move air!

I'll keep working on the little things, but it is on the road and legal. Thanks for all your help.

mamzerook
03-26-2010, 09:44 AM
Another follow up. I got the injectors, gp's, return lines, IPS and fuel relay replaced, Starts and runs like a top.

Now I need to replace the driver door latch. Door won't shut very good and I've replace the bushings and pins, and adjusted the door some.

What do I need to do to get the door panel off? I've got the two screws out of the holes where you pull the door shut. I've got the clips loose. How do I get the piece where the door handle is out?

Then I have to check out the heater. It won't quit!!! I had to drive today with the pass. window down some. There is no off even when the dial is completely counter-clock wise. The blower also does not move air!

I'll keep working on the little things, but it is on the road and legal. Thanks for all your help.
This should get you along your door project
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=327391

D2 Cat
03-26-2010, 11:50 PM
Thanks for the help. I got in in today. It wasn't fun or easy, but the door shuts with little force and latches/locks.

Dealer wanted $119.74 for the door lock. I have a friend who owns a recycle yard. He said if I'd go pull it, and not take it out of a good door skin---it's mine. I was fortunate enough to find a good lock with the door pretty much parted out with the window being gone. Took 5 minutes to get it out and 5 hours to get it in!!

Got a good pair of tow hooks for $10.

Won't be long and this truck will be usable.