I am planning to install a Pre Filter ( this one http://nicktane.com/osc/product_info.php?cPath=22_21&products_id=28 ) on my truck to hopefully solve my poor filter life problem on the main filter. I was wondering if I should install a small in-line lift pump at the same time? My truck is mostly stock and I do not plan any crazy mods for it. I use it to tow a 36' fifth wheel. In the future I will do exhaust and maybe something like a Banks Six-Gun but I don't think any hotter. I thought about a small cheap pump just to make sure that I can overcome any little air leaks and to help with the priming of the 2 filters I will have on the truck. Any suggestions, do I even need it?

i dont think so... i have a cat filter setup on my truck, pretty much stock truck, never had an issue with it.... ive pulled a stock trailer full of cattle, flat bed gooseneck with misc farm stuff.. tractors, round bales of hay, anything else. ive contimlplated installing a lift pump, but i dont feel is nessisary unless you add a lot of power adders, wild programers, twin turbo's ect...

I am planning to install a Pre Filter ( this one http://nicktane.com/osc/product_info.php?cPath=22_21&products_id=28 ) on my truck to hopefully solve my poor filter life problem on the main filter. I was wondering if I should install a small in-line lift pump at the same time? My truck is mostly stock and I do not plan any crazy mods for it. I use it to tow a 36' fifth wheel. In the future I will do exhaust and maybe something like a Banks Six-Gun but I don't think any hotter. I thought about a small cheap pump just to make sure that I can overcome any little air leaks and to help with the priming of the 2 filters I will have on the truck. Any suggestions, do I even need it?

Nope, you will be ok with out a lift pump. Just out of curiosity, why are you having such issues with the stock filters? Maybe you need to change your fuel station.......

I guess it all depends on how long you plan to keep your vehicle. Do you absolutely need it... nope..but ya cant fight physics eeither and an extra filter will in fact add some extra strain on the IP (cp3).

As a very handy thing to have..?? I would say why the heck not..?? Not sure if any of you guys have ever completely lost prime ever..all the way back to your tank.? That can be a time consuming drag. With a lift pump..never be an issue.
+
No fuel lag when you hit the pedal hard.
Easy starts after changing filter(s).
No hand priming required.

Likely the least expensive would be a PPE. (there may be others as inexpensive as well), but note it is not a "flow through" type & a bit noisy. If you do add it, suggest you incorporate a bypass with an inline check valve. Or you could go all out and get an AirDog or Airdog II.!

my take and opinion only. Got one installed and like it lrg.

stk

I have been having problems with my filter clogging up. I just had my filter checked when they fixed my little rats nest problem. It tested 50% restricted in just under 4K miles. I almost never fill at the same station as my truck mainly see’s duty towing my trailer. So I always fill at busy truck stops. We travel to Texas a lot and into Wyoming and the Dakotas. I have never gotten any more then 6K on a filter before my struck starts the slow shifting under load. Once it starts that I have to back out of it and it will shift. Change the filter and it is good for about 4 to 6K. I used to use GM filters but I have stopped that and for the last few filters I have ordered through Merchant. I don't think it is a quality issue with the filters. I think I have picked up some crap somewhere. I plan on keeping this truck close to forever so I want to fix it right.

Must be lucky here in SoCal. I had almost 10K on my filter...I changed it even though it still showed 50% life left in it....I was surprised when I cut it open that it looked relatively clean...I do purchase my diesel at one of the busiest stations near my house. They sell a lot of diesel fuel there...

I run a pre-OE fuel filter on both of my LBZs and do not run a lift pump on either. I don't race my trucks, but they do tow a lot. I run a Baldwin fuel filter with water separator pre-OE, which is rated 3-micron and not as restrictive as some of the large canister 2-micron filters. I'm getting around 12K miles on the Baldwin filter, and 25K miles on the double pleat OE filter (non-coalescing) that I changed last weekend. When i cut open this last OE filter, the darkened media was about 70%. For what it's worth.

Long term your CP3 will be stressed less with a small lift pump supplying fuel. In this application a flow through pump would be best IMO. Along with pass through capabilities a oil pressure activated control sytem keeps it as an integrated device without daily user intervention. A non-flow through pump like Steakman used will require a bypass valve system in the plumbing to prevent roadside issues if the pump fails.

Kennedy Diesel has a single pass through style lift pump with a control box and oil pressure safety system that is perfect for this kind of usage.
http://www.kennedydiesel.com/

TTS also has a very similar system that can be purchased from Nicktane.

Edit: I don't currently have a lift pump but it is on the list of upgrades. I will use a pass through pump with oil pressure system for transparent operation as my wife drives the truck regularly.

now i wonder, if i have the nictane filter setup pre-oem stock filter do i really need the stock filter anymore?? if i removed the stock filter it would cut down the restriction....

Good question Tennykimble. The Nictane filter is rated to filter to a smaller micron size then the stock filter. The only reason I might think now is because of the water separating ability of the stock filter.

IMO giving up the water trap and sensor is not worth the risk. My opinion comes from a long term rental fleet maintenance/management stand point -seeing the cost to fix pumps and injectors from induced water....

IMO giving up the water trap and sensor is not worth the risk. My opinion comes from a long term rental fleet maintenance/management stand point -seeing the cost to fix pumps and injectors from induced water....

yeah but the water seperator/primary filter is ALWAYS before the secondary filter... sooo... is water collecting in the bottom of the nictane filter? i've never had to drain water off of the stock filter assembley, before or after the nictane filter installation???

I have been running the nictane pre-filter without a lift for since my truck was new without any problems. If you replace the factory filter shortly after installing the pre-filter, it should not get dirty and therefore not offer signficant restriction. I agree it is worth keeping the factor filter for the water sensor.

I just finished installing a Racor pre-filter (Model 690) along with Kennedy dual pumps. I am adding power and needed the extra supply, but for stock usage the Kennedy single should be fine. The Racor unit has a heater in the bowl, and also a water sensor that connects into the factory system, using the factory WIF light in the dash. It also has a clear bowl on the bottom so you can see if it has dirt or water present. I will add pics in my garage in the next couple days. I mounted it in the rear drivers' wheelwell, where I can change it without crawling under the truck, and also any spillage goes to the ground, instead of all over the engine compartment. I installed a vacuum/pressure gauge inline between the stock filter & injection pump, and with the stock setup read 2-2.5" Hg at idle. After installing pumps & pre-filter, it still reads 2-2.5" Hg with pump off, and 7 psi with pumps on. This tells me that the pre-filter is no extra restriction with new filters, but I would still go with a small pump to help out when the filters begin to fill.

where can i get a fuel pressure gauge that will screw onto the stock pressure tap (in the engine compartment) ?

..IMO giving up the water trap and sensor is not worth the risk. My opinion comes from a long term rental fleet maintenance/management stand point -seeing the cost to fix pumps and injectors from induced water..
AGREED with Trailwhale for sure.! and if I am not mistaken guys, the OEM filter assy also includes a fuel heater..someone correct me if I am wrong here..so i dont know if I would want to try to bypass it altogether.

Also...no-one has been able to tell me nor have I read it anywhere on this forum just exactly what the efficiency rating/micron rating the oem fuel filter is. I suspect that it is not a 5 or 10 micron filter. Sure as hell GM isnt going to tell me. Reason I say that is that I have a POST Oem filter at 5 mU and after 18,000km changed them both out. This was prior to installing my 3rd fuel filter by the PPE.

You can see the pics here in a thread that got very interesting in discussing secondary Filtration, lift pumps, cp3's and injectors.!

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=341619

I have only had my CAT filter unit on now about 2 months and still have a ways to go before I change all three. at that time I will cut them up and post my results.

Tenny. Where is this tap..?? If its a 1/4" npt fitting then any liquid oil filled gauge from 0 -30 or 50 should work.? I'm using one on my lift pump module and used it to set my lift pump pressure..I think it is 0-30..? Not sure and way to freakin cold to go look now. -20C tnite


rgds,
stk

if you open the hood, it's on the right side of the alternator, its' a plastic covered pressure style fitting sticking up from the valley of the engine - remove the black plastic cap- it looks like a giant valve stem fitting.

where can i get a fuel pressure gauge that will screw onto the stock pressure tap (in the engine compartment) ?


Kennedy has one the only one that I know of, but I he has a gauge with it. I'm not sure if you can hook up a interior gauge to it or not.

Kennedy has the gauge that will plug into the Schrader. A great tool to check filter condition.

Heard rummor that Tony Burkhard has a replacement fitting for the Schrader fitting that allows connecting a normal gauge. Might check with him.

yeah but the water seperator/primary filter is ALWAYS before the secondary filter... sooo... is water collecting in the bottom of the nictane filter? i've never had to drain water off of the stock filter assembley, before or after the nictane filter installation???


Guess you have to 100% trust that the first filter is doing the job. Agree with many that normally on a fuel system you install a coarse water trapping filter first then your fine media filter second. But ultimately what matters is that you don't create more restriction than the CP3 can handle with your combination of tuning and mods -if any. For me the factory filter is secondary protection pretty much for peace of mind. I am going to the new Racor filter on my next batch of OEM location filters for the extra water trapping ability. Water and particulate is the biggest enemy of an injector system with lubricity an important friend.


Steak ---the OEM filter -not coalescing - was 2 micron at ~67% if memory is correct. The new coalescing filter is 4 micron ~100% per spec sheets with a water trapping media. The OEM filter head does have a small heater too.

So let it be said
So let it be written....

The Whale has spoken.!
Heater in the filter head...kinda thought so.

cheers...its friday and I'm 'bout done a good btl of Shiraz/Malbec...Good ole Rock n Roll (70's-90's), on duh 5.1 and I'm done with 'puter for the night....time to party a bit.!! and I'm smart a nuff to stop typin when i'm drinkin.....:cool::D:cool:

later..

stk

I'm back for help, The up-graded ZF-6 parts and the South Bend Dual disk clutch did wonders for the truck. Now I'm thinking I'm not getting enough fuel. When it is cold out side like 40 degrees and below and I turn the boxes up the truck cuts out in low gear "3rd" if I kick it in 4th this doesn't happen, if its 50 degrees its fine. So heres what I'm thinking let me know what you think. When the tempter is cold the diesel fuel gets thicker like any other oil the viscosity increases there for making the stock pump have trouble getting the fuel needed to the engine.

I think I need just a little more fuel and I hate to pay big money for the Air Dog, PPE, or raptor lift pumps. My truck is a LB7 so fuel shims are not applicable. I'm running a brand new AFE High Flow Fuel Filter already. Now for the question please no laughing..... I ran across a NIB Universal Diesel 12 Volt Lift Pump for $67.35 free shipping. It comes with 3/8 and 1/2 hard ware and a flow rate of 35gph. I looked at the PPE and it has a max flow rate of 160gph but the guys using them are throttling them back. Is there any way this might work to save me money?