Hey guys, I just picked up a '94 K3500 SRW with a 6.5 in it. It has 122k currently and seems to run real good. I own a landscaping company and this will be my primary work truck/transportation to and from school, so I'd like to do some maintenance on it to make sure that its good to go. The previous owner has already recently replaced the alternator, both batteries and the glow plugs. I'd like to do an oil change, but I'm not sure what you'd recommend for oil, and I'm not really sure what else I should do. I'll get around to changing the t-case fluids, transmission fluid and a coolant flush at some point, but what else should I do to this thing? I am also planning on ordering up a set of gauges (trans temp, pyrometer, and boost), a cold ait inttake and prob have my local exhaust shop bend me up a bigger system. Anything else I should add?

Hey guys, I just picked up a '94 K3500 SRW with a 6.5 in it. It has 122k currently and seems to run real good. I own a landscaping company and this will be my primary work truck/transportation to and from school, so I'd like to do some maintenance on it to make sure that its good to go. The previous owner has already recently replaced the alternator, both batteries and the glow plugs. I'd like to do an oil change, but I'm not sure what you'd recommend for oil, and I'm not really sure what else I should do. I'll get around to changing the t-case fluids, transmission fluid and a coolant flush at some point, but what else should I do to this thing? I am also planning on ordering up a set of gauges (trans temp, pyrometer, and boost), a cold ait inttake and prob have my local exhaust shop bend me up a bigger system. Anything else I should add?

That's a good start for sure. Change fluids, gauges, 3-4" exhaust, 3" downpipe helps a lot. If you're planning on hauling a trailer or heavy loads, maybe even a chipped computer. It realy helps with towing.

Yup read the stickies sections here...

Make sure your oil cooler lines are in good shape & replace if needed, one of them let's go & wave goodbye to the 6.5.

Purchase a kit to move the PMD electronic control box for the Injection pump out to the nostril in the front bumper.

Cooling upgrades for the 6.5 also in the sticky section if you plan to haul heavy loads with it & maybe even of your not...

Fill out your signature & if you are new here, welcome!

I like the synthetic rotellaT. Important to check and make sure the lift pump is working.On a truck with a good tight IP you might not have any symptoms of a inoperative LP depending on your driving style,but it will make the IP work harder and soon cause wear/damage.
BTW welcome to the site...there are some real experienced 6.5 guys here:)

Well first off Welcome to the the diesel place, you'll learn more here in the first few months of owning that diesel,, then ANY GM tech that worked on them when they were new. First off, you'll have to go to the first page of the threads and look for the FAQ section. Lots of good reading there. Then scroll up on any page, and look for the USER CP link on the right side, and go fill out a Signature.

Now,, most here like to use Rotella diesel oil. get it at wally world for the best price. If you have a Sat to dig into the truck, I'd take out the Radiator, and Clean it real good, search in the FAQ's about overheating,, theres only 1 way to clean the rad, and thats out of the truck on some saw horses,, with 2 cans of DOW scrubbing bubbles, and a lite pressure power washer. Do the oil,trans,coolers, and condencer aswell. Now get ONLY a AC delco T-stat, flush the block, and put her back together with a 50/50 mix, and a bottle of Water Wetter. That will be the best thing you can do for Cooling that beast off. Get a fuel filter&air filter. check that serp belt. And find out where the PMD is. (go search that too). After maintance,, the first money you should spend for reliabilty will be on a new PMD, an extension cable, and a heatsink. To mount that little black box, OUTside the engine compartment. Don't waste your money on a cold air intake, as there is nothing cold about it. Go to Kennedydiesel.com and search their tech tips, for a air cleaner mod, for your truck. 2) on the money thing will be Exhaust. Manderel bent is the way to go. A good 4" performance set up is what you want, if your buddy can't bend 4" with manderel bends,, then buy one. I got mine for 290 shipped. That in all should keep you busy for a few weekends, and till then Read, read, read. Knowledge is power, and don't let anyone tell you ( ah dude, you bought a 6.5 I've heard those were ?????? engines!") cause they don't know any better. Keep us posted on your progress, and feel free to ask any questions

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53309 <---go read here

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/usercp.php <--- go here on left side to fill out sig

Man you guys are fast, No posts when I started typing,,,, See ECH112 your in good hands now! =)

Thanks for the quick responses guys! I will definitely be doing a lot of the mods you suggested with the radiators and whatnot. Probably try and hold off on those til the spring when its a little warmer out. In addition to my business, I work part time for a local auto parts store (discounts!) so I'll prob just buy those oil lines and replace them regardless for good measure. I'd like to find another place to put that PMD....they use a lot of road salt here in the winter and I think I'd be afraid of it getting blasted with salt in the front bumper. Also, what weight should I get in the Rotella T?

5 w 40 syn

15 w 40 dino

The PMD gets mounted to a block of aluminum heat sink, make sure to use a cooling pad, it's just a little piece of rubber when mounting the PMD to the cooler. The PMD is linked into the original harness with a 6 ft extension cable has weather pack fittings on both ends, weather conditions is not an issue.

I mounted mine into the upper section of the cooling nostril in the bumper, no issues since the upgrade here. Be sure to replace or reuse the resister...the resister is a flat tiny little piece that sits inside the PMD plug where the weather pack plug is attached, you can either replace it with a #9 or reuse the OEM one.

Welcome. Don't replace your oil cooler lines with factory type lines. They will leak the same in a matter of weeks. Lubrication specialist or pmd cable sell lifetime oil cooler/line set-ups.

Do the ops relay mod

Hello fellow landscaper, I used my c2500 in my business for three years now, with the help of these great people on this site, there vast knowledge, and some time researching on your own, you will know more about the 6.5 than any GM dealer. All the advice you have received is great, I would second the lubrication specialist cooler kit, I put one on last year, easy piece of mind. Could you imagine how fast the oil would come out of your engine if one of those failed? Also I would recommend an air bad helper kit from firestone ride rite, but don't use their fittings to connect your lines, go down to local hardware store and get some brass compression fittings, for a couple of bucks, they are much better. The air bags will help a lot with towing and hauling loads. Good luck, and welcome!!!!