Noticed some abnormal wear on my Revo's and a minor vibration in the steering wheel. Went in for a rotation and the tech found that the left-front wheel bearing was completely worn out - had 1/4 inch of side-to-side play at the bearing which translated into an inch or more of wheel movement at the tread! Wow. What was even more amazing was the price of the wheel bearing - $400! While my truck is the heavier crew cab, I've never wheeled it and have run 265's for it's entire 58K miles. Guess it is just the luck of the draw but I didn't expect something like this until 100K miles or more.....

.....on the other hand, my estimated brake pad life is 250,000 miles....woo hoo.....

Fred I am not a diesel owner yet but I have been a mechanic for 30 years. I can think of 2 things off the top of my head.

1. Have you ever hade the bearings repacked? 58K is a long time for them to go with out being repacked. I would say 30K would be the max I would go without repacking. Front wheel bearings are normally repacked when the brakes are done and for most vehicles that’s way less than 58K.

2. If you did repack at 30K who did it. A ¼ turn too tight and the bearings will go bad much sooner and you can never prove anything.

3. And there is always luck of the draw option.

This is all assuming your truck has tapered seat serviceable wheel bearings and not the new sealed bearing/hub assemblies. GM has hade some problems with them on their cars don't know about the trucks.

PS this is my first post I hope I didn't blow it

OOPS! I guess I blew it.

Fred I am not a diesel owner yet but I have been a mechanic for 30 years. I can think of 2 things off the top of my head.

1. Have you ever hade the bearings repacked? 58K is a long time for them to go with out being repacked. I would say 30K would be the max I would go without repacking. Front wheel bearings are normally repacked when the brakes are done and for most vehicles that’s way less than 58K.

2. If you did repack at 30K who did it. A ¼ turn too tight and the bearings will go bad much sooner and you can never prove anything.

3. And there is always luck of the draw option.

This is all assuming your truck has tapered seat serviceable wheel bearings and not the new sealed bearing/hub assemblies. GM has hade some problems with them on their cars don't know about the trucks.

PS this is my first post I hope I didn't blow it
_____________

jjab,

Not too awfully sure about this but these ain't "re-packable" and haven't been for a few years. Wished I could do that on mine.

I think the front wheel bearings are sealed bearing hub, no way to pack them. Is your truck a 4x4 or 2 wheel drive?

My truck is a 4X4. I looked over the failed assembly, it is sealed, no way to dis-assemble and repack. I sure wish they were serviceable! They are easy to get too, and simple to replace, but way too much $$$.

Left front seems to be a common failure in this front end. Mine went on a Florida trip at 80,000 miles. The assembly is not rebuildable and is so expensive because it incorporates the ABS sensor. However, if and when you need the right one I would purchase from Eric Merchant, DMaxAlliTech - he's a site sponsor vendor and a good guy and I got mine for $285 from him.
www.gmdieseltech.com (http://www.gmdieseltech.com)

Oh, BTW, this is probably going to get moved to the the Drivetrain section.

I have a 2wd truck, it the hub on the 2wd the same as the 4wd? I've heard the 2wd are still using tapered bearings.

Oh, by the way, JJAB, welcome to the site. You didn't screw up, just made your point well known (2 exact posts). Learn what you can and help with what you know!!!

MaxRock

Both sides of mine went out on the front at 67000 miles and I agree about the excess cost!! I had a set of Rancho RS9000X shocks being installed and the mechanic found the wheel bearings were worn completely out!! Total cost of shocks and wheel bearings was a tad over 1700.00!!! Censored

After watching the mechanic swap it out, I realized it's something I can do myself. $285 sure beats $400 plus $90 labor per side! My Mastercard is still smoking.....

Since I've had one fail I'm going to keep a close eye on the other one and replace it at the first since of looseness.

I've got to believe this is one situation where the weight of the DMAX/ALLI is not doing anything to increase the life expectancy. All that weight up front takes it's toll.

You have a good point there!!

Both the two wheel drive and four wheel drive trucks use sealed bearing assy's. They are however different. I have a 2WD truck and replaced mine in a couple of hours once I had the correct part.

see my story here:

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31128

Regards, Brian.

A very common problem for premature bearing failure is the drive axle nut torque.These bearing asseblies REQUIRE the outer cv joint/ Axle nut to keep it from coming apart. On larger heavier trucks the axle nut should be retorqued at different intervals.If the improper preload, usually too loose, is not maintained the hub 2 bearings starts to walk apart and actually wears the bearing out from free play.Pop off the cap and torque to 175 FT#.

A very common problem for premature bearing failure is the drive axle nut torque.These bearing asseblies REQUIRE the outer cv joint/ Axle nut to keep it from coming apart. On larger heavier trucks the axle nut should be retorqued at different intervals.If the improper preload, usually too loose, is not maintained the hub 2 bearings starts to walk apart and actually wears the bearing out from free play.Pop off the cap and torque to 175 FT#.

I don't have a 4wd DMax but I do have a '99 K1500 Suburban for the wife. My question is how do you keep the spindle from free spinning while torqing? Is it as simple as keeping the tire in contact with the gound while torqing?

Thanks. Brian.

OOPS! I guess I blew it.

Fixed it for you..

You can't repack the one piece hub assemblies. And yes it will be moved to drivetrain.. Now in fact.

Brian,

Thanks for the info and pictures. So, did you find the part number for the item 7 in the illustration you posted?

Is there any preventative maintenance you can perform or you just run them until the bearing fails?!?!? This sounds like another time bomb waiting to happen.

Thanks again.

MaxRock

Brian,

Thanks for the info and pictures. So, did you find the part number for the item 7 in the illustration you posted?

Is there any preventative maintenance you can perform or you just run them until the bearing fails?!?!? This sounds like another time bomb waiting to happen.

Thanks again.

MaxRock

Max,

No I didn't find the PN for the O-ring, item 7. I reused the existing and it seemed OK--would have been in a bind though if it was damaged and un-reusable. I don't think that there is any PM for the 2wd truck and sounds like the 4wd might require periodic checking of the spindle nut torque. I wish someone would confirm that though.

Thanks. Brian.

Wheel nut torque is not considered maintainance,but is a great idea.I just replaced an axle boot on an 05 w/30k and the nut was probably 40-50 max.Torque is 175#. Put vehicle on ground use parking brakes it won't rock so much. I have 150k on a truck that gets the p-ss beat out of it. Once you torque it after 20k or so it stays prety tight. Tim

Wheel nut torque is not considered maintainance,but is a great idea.I just replaced an axle boot on an 05 w/30k and the nut was probably 40-50 max.Torque is 175#. Put vehicle on ground use parking brakes it won't rock so much. I have 150k on a truck that gets the p-ss beat out of it. Once you torque it after 20k or so it stays prety tight. Tim

Tim,

Thanks for the note. I have a torque wrench that only goes up to 150 ft*lbs. What wrench do you have and do you recommend it?

Thanks again.

Brian.

Use a breaker bar and a 36mm socket and snug it up GOOD just dont get stupid.:lol: 175# is alot.lug nuts are 120# SO JUST:grd: You'll have to remove a gold annodized cap first with a chisel or screwdriver.

I just had this done to mine after 50,000 miles. Both bearing as well as idler arms and pitman arms. Total cost $1750. I was not happy, just out of warranty and this happens.

Helms Manual ('03) Volume 1, Section 4.

If the Front Drive Shaft Nut is removed, it must be replaced.

"Insert a drift or a large screwdriver through the brake caliper into 1 of the brake rotor vanes in order to prevent the wheel drive shaft from turning"

"Tighten the hub nut to 155 lb ft."

From the Horses mouth.

FWIW

Idahofox

Thats helms.Gm's actual spec is 177# I just rounded it to 175.Just remove center cap and pop the anodized cap. Its not necessary to remove tire if you just want to check.

May I ask Where GM wrote that Spec down ?

Idahofox

It's in Gm SI (service information) electronic service manuals.Document #793723. I can't get the document to attatch.

Thank you.

Didn't doubt you.

Idahofox

Just thought I would ask for a little clarification on his thread. On a 2 wheel drive, do you have to do any preventive maintenance on the front wheel bearing? I have 70,000 miles on an 03 and have done nothing to the wheel bearing. Front end still seems good, though I have replace idler arm.

Just thought I would ask for a little clarification on his thread. On a 2 wheel drive, do you have to do any preventive maintenance on the front wheel bearing? I have 70,000 miles on an 03 and have done nothing to the wheel bearing. Front end still seems good, though I have replace idler arm.

Front bearing/hub assembly is a "zero maintenance" sealed unit. It comes as a $300 unit (pricey because of the ABS sensor in the assembly).

Are the torque specs the same for a 95 suburban?

What is the proper procedure for this tightening...should I just crank it down and see if it is in spec or back the nut off a tiny bit and then re-torque it?

The torque is printed diferently in different manuals. The proceedure is the same and I would use 165# as spec. tim

The torque is printed diferently in different manuals. The proceedure is the same and I would use 165# as spec. tim

Thanks Tim!

I am looking in the Chilton manual and I see a Hub removel instructions for a k2500 but no torque specs on installation. (I will try 165)There is nothing about how to tighten this nut down if it becomes loose. It does mention that if the nut is removed a new one must be installed. Should I just crank it over and see if it is 165? Or loosen a 1/4 turn or something and retighten to 165?

Try it first just to see but you may have to break the rust loose first.You can reuse the original and apply locktite(blue242) if you wish.It will be fine.Can you feel any play in your hubs now?This is not a maintinance thing but a good idea in my opinion.I have seen several very loose.

Just had my left front bearing and hub assembly replaced at 24k, it was severly worn. Thought it was due to the tire and lift but reading this.....maybe not 100% true.

I replaced my right front a couple weeks ago. You guys are getting ripped off on price.
I bought mine at Carquest $251.78 + tax. Changed mine in about an hour with air tools.

I've replaced both of mine, the left @50K and the right @ 74K....

F*** has the same bearing issues as the GM's as they also use a sealed bearing, and a bit more $$$ too per side

i'm wondering would the wheel bearings be covered under warranty?

480,000 original front end, brakes & bearings. Eric has seen this truck, only problems I seem to have are the d*m injectors.

F*** has the same bearing issues as the GM's as they also use a sealed bearing, and a bit more $$$ too per side

If I'm not mistaken, some aftermarket company(s) have a replacement that uses a spindle and tapered bearing design for the Fords. I wonder if anything is available for the GM's. The only concern might be the ABS sensor.


Edit: Link added http://www.dynatrac.com/

480,000 original front end, brakes & bearings. Eric has seen this truck, only problems I seem to have are the d*m injectors.

did you replace the engine because of the injectors?

Yes it dumped fuel in the original engine 3 times & caused the bearings to go due to washing.

Since we are on the subject of hub wheel bearing assemblies, my 4wd 2001 is not squealing or grinding like a wheel bearing, but gets an occassional knock for a few seconds coming from the wheel assembly on the left front. Doesn't matter whether in curve, turn or straightaway. I do need pitman arm assembly replaced, but am becoming more concerned about the hub bearings. Sort of like a knock or hammering as the wheel turns. Any others had this, and did this relate back to the bearings in the hub assembly?

I want to add this to better describe the sound. Like a rock stuck in the tire. tick, tick, tick, tick. Tie rod? ball joint? hub assembly?

Can't really help you there, DevilDog. When my left front hub/bearing went, it was on a 3,000 mile Ohio to Florida round trip. Started as a shimmy in the left front, got worse with time. When I got back to Ohio, there was a grinding looseness in the left front wheel when jacked up and rotated by hand, but never any noise.

Just started hearing a "growl" in my right front end a few weeks ago - I guess it's my turn now!

Same issue with my 2500 HD. Left front bearing at 56,000 miles. Cost = $500.00 (including labor). Who ever designed this bearing should be FIRED! Bearing, hub and anti lock sensor in an integral unit at the cost of $377.00 for the original GM part! To top it off, I think a bearing failure at 56,000 miles is ridiculous for a truck that doesn't get "worked". :rant:

Well, I solved this problem. left front hub bearing assembly is not grinding, but tolerances have slipped after 106,000 miles. Tried the old ball joint test, had movement. checked ball joints while moving tire at 12 and 6 position, no movement. Removed wheel, rotor has play in it also. Right side, no movement. Pretty sure it is hub bearing assembly. Is this a do it yourself project for the average mechanic? (I don't rebuild engines, but can work on brakes). Or maybe website that has the information. Also, where are you guys getting the parts?

Is it odd that the largest number of these bad bearings are on the drivers side???? - I fall in this catagory as well. Right side was fine. Just replace the intermediat steering shaft too? wonder if any of this is related?

Also, where are you guys getting the parts?

Got mine from DMaxAlliTech - look in vendor section for GMDieseltech - although he's also known as Merchant Automotive.:o:

They are fairly easy to change. You could do in your driveway in a couple of hours at the most. About 30 minutes with air tools.

Jack up both wheels so you can use the other tire to turn the steering back and forth. Makes it easier to get air wrench in there. I replaced the passenger side, I think I need to replace the driver side, it seemed loose.

Also you need a 36mm socket, I got mine from sears $7.00

Wayne

How do you check the hub for play?

Tires on or off?

How much play is acceptable if any?

Tire on. Jack up by the lower A-arm until the tire is just off the ground. Push-pull in-out on the top and bottom and there should be no play in that direction. You can also do the push-pull on the front and rear, but play in the tie-rod ends makes it hard to judge in that direction. When mine went, it had about 1/2" play in the top-bottom push-pull and also had a "grind" you could feel when rotating the wheel by hand.

This is my first post. I've put 4 brg. in the right and 4 brg. in the left in 62000. I've got 315/75/16 on 16 x10. Had the same tire and rim package on my gas powered 01 crew cab. Only differences is this is a Duramax and a different lift. Brgs. torque each time but no retorque. Was in Fla. when one went out cost me $637.00 at the dealer. That was the cheapest dealer down there one wanted $774.00. So I'd be happy with 58000.

Tire on. Jack up by the lower A-arm until the tire is just off the ground. Push-pull in-out on the top and bottom and there should be no play in that direction. You can also do the push-pull on the front and rear, but play in the tie-rod ends makes it hard to judge in that direction. When mine went, it had about 1/2" play in the top-bottom push-pull and also had a "grind" you could feel when rotating the wheel by hand.

No play at all on the top to bottom...just a tiny bit front to back.

I'm in the "if it ain't broke don't fix-it" camp...but at the same time i wouldn't mind doing something if it would get some extra life out of the hubs.

If I just check the nut and it breaks loose and it is not at spec "165Lbs". Is it best then to take the nut all the way off, put a little lock-tight on it and then re-torque it? Or just leave it on and just torque it to 165Lb?

There's information that the front shaft nut torque may be responsible for some of the failures. Since your a "not broke don't fix it" advocate, I'd just pop the cover and check-torque the axle nut.

There's information that the front shaft nut torque may be responsible for some of the failures. Since your a "not broke don't fix it" advocate, I'd just pop the cover and check-torque the axle nut.

I check-torqued them at 170lb and they were tight.

Just got back from a long trip, 3200 miles, and on the way home the drivers side bearing went bad. She held together the last 1000 miles. Its up on jackstands til a parts store open this morning. Truck has 81,000 miles. Maybe we should have a poll on the miles before replacing them.

I just replaced one here in the shop yesterday... I try to keep these bearings in stock as I always seem to need one when I cant get one.

Just got back from a long trip, 3200 miles, and on the way home the drivers side bearing went bad. She held together the last 1000 miles. Its up on jackstands til a parts store open this morning. Truck has 81,000 miles. Maybe we should have a poll on the miles before replacing them.
I bought mine used at 22k miles and at 23k miles I replaced the drivers side. Dont know if there were a previous replacement.

I was wondering if the wheel bearing is going bad on my truck. I have ans 03 with 75K. I have a roar coming my drivers side front. It does not do it continuously but for a few seconds then stop. It does however continue this pattern. Any advice would be appreciated.

Mine was intermittent also, but not roaring, shaking or vibrating. sometimes like a rock stuck in the wheel.
But it became worse and happened more often over 2000 miles. Do the 12 and 6 test, it will identify it pretty fast.

If you think you are going to need a hub bearing assembly, look at ordering very soon. Good prices online, local auto parts had a bear of a time getting one for me.

Good luck with it. I changed mine, easy change once you get the caliper bolts loose. Drives like a dream now.

Jus checked mine and had the dreaded play, ball joints are new, re torqued to 175ft/lbs and its nice and tight like new. This was the drivers side, im gna do the pass now jus to be safe and keep it from Bombing my bearings

Well, I just had the front left replaced @75k and it was severly worn. I have always run stock tires on my truck and my truck has an easy life. I do drive it a lot but I hardly ever pull anything or haul anything heavy besides myself. Go figure!

Well I might as well join in on this one, cause I just had to replace both bearings on my truck. My passenger side was worse than drivers side, but they were both severly worn. Now I am trying to get two of my tires back round instead of waved. I got my assemblies for like $381 a piece + labor.

Then we found a rear brake line seal leak on the passenger side rear that was leaking all over the rear pad so had to replace that to. A wopping shop bill of $1500 later I am rolling safely again.

Gmpartsdirect.com Front bearing ass. >>>>>!$185.00 +shipping

dang i know i dont have to worry about mine anymore but i know my dads looks like it could use some wheel bearings or ball joints

My front left was making a grinding racket. It kinda sounded like mudgrip whine. Only thing tho,..i have factory street threads on it. It whinned for 4 months before i got annoyed enff to replace it. Even at this point the bearing was still good(no slop...wobble) but it was strarting to get louder. My truck has 60k miles

A very common problem for premature bearing failure is the drive axle nut torque.These bearing asseblies REQUIRE the outer cv joint/ Axle nut to keep it from coming apart. On larger heavier trucks the axle nut should be retorqued at different intervals.If the improper preload, usually too loose, is not maintained the hub 2 bearings starts to walk apart and actually wears the bearing out from free play.Pop off the cap and torque to 175 FT#.

Midwest ~ How're you popping off the gold cap? It seems to have an almost seamless fit. Did get a shive under the lip but the cap metal is soft and we got nowhere ~ whats the secret process to remove?

SO i think mine is going out after checking the torgue. These bearings have nothing to do with the spinde right? I will just need to put a new hub assembly in, not a new spindle, and drop T-Bars and Re- aling and all that BS right ?

Hard to decifer your question, 5thgear, but the hub/bearing assembly bolts to the knuckle with three bolts. You pull the wheel, pop the cap, remove the front shaft nut (4x4), unbolt the caliper, pull the rotor and then R&R the hub/bearing assembly with the 3 three bolts entering the rear of the assembly from the knuckle. Then you pop the rotor and caliper back on, reinstall and torque the axle nut to 175 lb/ft and button 'er back up.

Midwest ~ How're you popping off the gold cap? It seems to have an almost seamless fit. Did get a shive under the lip but the cap metal is soft and we got nowhere ~ whats the secret process to remove?
Took the screwdriver and punched a hole in it to remove.:eek:

Dealer had one in stock to go with new spindle nut for $7.42 total. :cool:

Yoe decifered it perfectly! I was just under the impression that the bearing was pressed into the spindle somehow, I should have known better considering I put the lift on:rolleyes: By the way does anyone Know the Part # for these?? 4 wheel drive??

aketay ~ Yours was plan B ~ even ordered out the caps. BUT ~ found a smaller/slender screwdriver and w/some work finally able to dislodge the cap. As it was breaking loose ~ it creaked like my right knee on an early winters morn or the rusty hinges on the Inner Sanctom vault ona stormy, dark moonless night. There was a white dust present on the full contact area indicating some electrolysis occuring ~ basically welding the junction. The other side was textbook. Strangely, what I thot was windnoise from the area of the door seal on highspeed right turns/curves vanished after retorqing. Strangely, my service writer and I locked horns over the windnoise issue. During the workorder writeup, he stated it was my addon cb ant, yada yada as if I was so imbecilic not to have considered that before bringing it in. Told him, that if thats the best he's got, DON'T Touch nothin'. So, behind my back, he took time on it and billed GM ~ jerk. Anyway, it now looks like both of us were wrong ~ guess there is something to this retorqing afterall ~ and thanks for the response

Well im changing The bearing before my 1,000 mile trip to Glamis Dunes. I got the assembly, Timkin i believe for $190 + Tax. Am I going to need any seals when I install this, didnt read of having to put any in, but I saw a breakaway drawing in this post and it shows one? Also, What should I use on the caliper mount bolts when I tighten them? They were a SOB to get out, so I assume they have some type of thread locker on them. One more ??? What should I torgue the four bolts that hold the hub assembly to? Thanks guys, I love this place :)

I have a 2003 3500 4x4 duramax and the left front wheel bearing just went out. I thought it would be covered under powertrain warranty (65,801 miles on truck) stealer informed me not under warranty? I think this should be powertrain warranty. Especially since you cant even service these bearing assys.

FWIW department: Having retorqued mine and a friends ~ I've found that the hubs w/yellow paint dab marking on/near the nut/shaft were tight. The only loose one was my drivers side w/o the tell tale spot of yellow paint. Uncertain what the paint spot indicates ~ quality chk perhaps?

Sorry for the late reply 5thgear, but I just "unearthed" my service manuals from a box (while looking for something else, of course). According to my 2001 manual, Hub and Bearing Assembly to Steering Knuckle Bolts should be torqued to 133 lb ft (180 N-m). FWIW, the manual also says that the Axle Shaft Nut should be 155 lb ft (210 N-m). Happy Thanksgiving - now I've got to cook the bird and do some overdue truck maintenance before the snow and really cold weather gets here.

Well it was my turn for the drivers side today 91k not to bad and it cost me $250 installed. dave

A few have mentioned that you don't have to jack up the truck for the tightening, somebody correct me if my theory seems wrong...
Since tightening the nut will force the assembly/tire inwards, would you really be getting proper torque if the tire is on the ground resisting inward pressure? Wouldn't you get a more consistant reading/tighening with the front tire off the ground so there is no inward resistance?
I don't have a DMax yet, only Toyota's but when I service my front end I pull the tires and slip a long chisel into the brake rotor slot and let that hold it back from turning, it rests on the floor at about the 5 o'clock position.

Rockpig, the amount of "pull" on the wheel assemby by tightening the axle nut is miniscule (less than a fraction of an inch) and easily taken up by sidewall flex in the tire. To try and torque the nut with the wheel in the air you are going to have to jam the rotor (and focus stress at that point) or try to apply an equal counter-torque to the wheel-tire and probably not end up with the full 175 lb-ft on the nut.

Found it impossible to remove the cap w/o having the wheel off. Then, while in the air, jammed a screwdriver into the rotor vents and torqued. Replaced cap, wheel and lowered.

I changed my left hub at 55000 miles and the right one at 65000miles.

The Hub assemble can be bought at Kragen Auto Parts for $120.
that's the cheapest place that Ive seen.
but sometimes they don't have it in stock but they can order it or find it in one of there other stores.

who makes the one at kragen?