So the truck really needs a good detailing. Anyone claybar? whats the best way to do that??

Just buy the kit at wal-mart, and follow the instructions!! it's really simple you just spray the quick detailer on and rub the clay around!

Wash it really good and remove any tar or whatever then do as said above. Keep it good and wet and rub it down and then wax.

Brian

Make sure to keep the area you are working wet with whatever lubricant in use,work small areas,you will feel when the area is clean and be sure to need the clay bar ever so often so too much contaminate doesnt build up in one spot on the clay bar.Did a mini-van once that had paint overspray on it,starting out felt like sandpaper rubbing on the paint instead of the claybar,turned out looking better than new!

IIRC, there have been people that have washed the vehicle good- then depending on how dirty the water is (if dirty get some new with the car wash soap in it) just use the car wash soapy water for a lube with it. I guess it works very well!!!!

If you drop the bar on the ground and it gets some dust or dirt on the ground, chuck it.
Also if you see the clay bar leaving marks on the paint lessen the pressure and spray more lube.
Bill

First thing make sure you have enough Beer for half the day lol.

Also don't do it in direct sunlight. Find somewhere shady. Not as big of a deal in the winter time but definitely avoid direct sun in the summer.

I bought a clayblock and detail spray from SmartWax at the Los Angeles Car show for my Vette, but sold it before I had a chance to use it. I used it on my wife's BMW with SmartWax Polish and let me tell you, it's been over a month and that car still beads water and feels sexy smooth.

I got a deal at the car show for $20 and it included the clayblock, detail spray, and a microfiber towel. I had the polish from a deal I got last year (Polish, waterless wash, and interior dressing for $30 with a microfiber towel).

You might be able to schmooze them on the phone to give you a better deal or car show prices.

I have nothing to say but good things about this produce except - keep the polish away from textured plastic, it's b!tch to get off/out.

http://www.smartwax-usa.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=40101

http://www.smartwax-usa.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=SW-KIT3

WOW! lots of advice! thanks.. But how does a clay bar work? Is it just a soft textured block that fills in tiny scratches and such? Does the kits usually come with a type of lubricant or is that on my part?

just buy a claybar. you dont need the spray that comes in a kit. It is merely a watered down spray wax. We use a mixure of dawn and water. This keeps the bar constantly lubricated. As mentioned do not drop the claybar on the ground and do not do this process in direct sun or on a hot day.

You must have the wrong impression of a claybar. A claybar is used after you wash your car/truck to remove contaminants that will not wash off. Examples are rail dust, bug guts, fresh water spots, etc. Something else to remember is a clay bar will removed every bit of wax/polish on the paint. So after you claybar you might have a slight haze; the vehicle will need to be re-waxed/polished to get the protection and shine back

just buy a claybar. you dont need the spray that comes in a kit. It is merely a watered down spray wax. We use a mixure of dawn and water. This keeps the bar constantly lubricated. As mentioned do not drop the claybar on the ground and do not do this process in direct sun or on a hot day.

You must have the wrong impression of a claybar. A claybar is used after you wash your car/truck to remove contaminants that will not wash off. Examples are rail dust, bug guts, fresh water spots, etc. Something else to remember is a clay bar will removed every bit of wax/polish on the paint. So after you claybar you might have a slight haze; the vehicle will need to be re-waxed/polished to get the protection and shine back

^^^^Exactly. I used the spray that came with it, but noticed that it would evaporate fairly quick and leave the clay marks. The next time I do mine it is going to be with the soapy water (using the dawn would work as well, but that would def. strip the wax off and would need to be redone!!!!!)

^^^^Exactly. I used the spray that came with it, but noticed that it would evaporate fairly quick and leave the clay marks. The next time I do mine it is going to be with the soapy water (using the dawn would work as well, but that would def. strip the wax off and would need to be redone!!!!!)

That'll happen no matter what lubricant you use.

so this will work to get out the swirl marks that were left from the guy that waxed and polished my truck last?

so this will work to get out the swirl marks that were left from the guy that waxed and polished my truck last?
no.. when you say "swirl marks" do you mean the ghost 3-d swirls or surface scratches?
and i recommend that no one put dawn on your paint, way too harsh, just use the stuff that comes with the bar or use a quick detailer spray.

I just mix a fresh wash bucket and use that to keep the paint wet then use the clay bar. I usualy dunk the clay bar in the bucket as I go as well.

I Don't Think They Make Enough Beer For Me To Clay Bar!!:D

ARM

i mean the ghost 3d lookin swirls that move when you move

i mean the ghost 3d lookin swirls that move when you move

those are not swirl marks; they are called buffer trails. Buffer trails are created by several reasons; buffer pads not flat, only using a synthetic wool pad, incorrect cut compound, etc. True swirl marks are the little circle scratches that get embedded in the paint.

And to answer your question, NO; clay bar-ing will not remove buffer trails or swirl marks

That'll happen no matter what lubricant you use.

That is correct. The clay bar will strip the wax/polish from the vehicle; not the dawn/soap mixture

... i recommend that no one put dawn on your paint, way too harsh, just use the stuff that comes with the bar or use a quick detailer spray.

There is nothing wrong using dawn/water mixture. I am a professional detailer and use this mixture daily when clay bar-ing and never had any issues when used correctly. The vehicle will need to be repolished to bring the shine and luster back out but this is not caused by the dawn solution.

Clay bars are a modern day wonder in my opinion! They have saved professional car detailers massive amounts of time when it comes to cleaning and prepping the paint for waxing, polishing, paint correction, etc. There is many types to pick and choose from. I really like the version from CSI which has the famed Tom Horvath from the original System One days. Tom is the formulator for their products. I personally buy my wax, clay bar, spray detailer from www.polishandwax.com (http://www.polishandwax.com)-no, I don't receive commissions.
Using a spray lubricant is not mandatory. It is the ideal method, but not mandatory. Out in the field, I personally will use simply a clay bar underneath a wet chamois', and this allows the surface to "get wet" as I am rubbing back and forth (no, this is not some sexual inuendo).
If you have never used a clay bar, you will be amazed at the results. Simply follow up with your brand of wax. I prefer the CSI spray wax- this is the result of modern day chemical engineeering at its best. If you are used to "old school" paste and liquid waxes, you are in for a serious treat!

not trying to start a pissing contest here, Im a professional detailer also, dawn is very harsh on your paint, i guess if used carefully its fine, but why would you risk it when any quick deatiler or car wash soap will do

Using Dawn, water, or the manufacturers form of lubricant is not going to make or break anyone's world or results; it just isn't that critical. Out in the field, when the situation isn't critical for results of the finished product, we are constantly fighting the clock to stay profitable, etc. So, we find ourselves being resourceful. This is why I will simply use a wet chamois as I don't want to hold a separate spray bottle of lubricant and keep spraying the surface. If you have just washed your vehicle and are not in direct sunlight, try a real time saving step and clay your car while it remains wet. Sritz your wet car with the lubricant and go to town! I am all about "Maximum results, with minimal effort". That being said under the context that the end result is not going to be affected by the "means" of process.
I know there is ongoing debate as to whether dishwashing soap is harmful to your car; I think it is a debate that really isn't worthy of the debate itself as I don't think there are too many people out there that are going to repeatedly use dishwashing soap and not follow up with wax. If there is, then obviously these people don't really care anyways and makes the point a moot point.

This is all good info. I have been thinking of doing this to my truck in the spring. If anyone wants to come drink with me I will provide the beer and clay bars to get the job done. I will even grill some steaks! My truck is an 06. I really hate the look of the moldings on the doors. They get really bad. Will the clay bar work here? Also is the paste wax or the spray wax better to get a longer lasting finish? And hey while we are at it I could use some help installing the cognito 4 to 6!

Clay bars will produce minimal efforts on the moldings. Try some rubbing alcohol to remove discoloring. I use a commersial product for this, but don't know where to tell you to get some. The rubbing alcohol will be effective in many jobs though. And please, don't anyone tell me this is harmful to paint etc. I just know what works and what doesn't....
Modern day advances have come a long way with chemical engineering. Any name brand spray wax will do. Unless you enjoy "processes" over results, then by all means, go buy some paste wax and burn a few beer colories with excessive rubbing. Not required anymore though. Just find a brand of spray wax that will not discolor black trim, e.g. Mequires Ultimate Wax, System One, or the one I perfer, CSI Q-7 wax.

This is all good info. I have been thinking of doing this to my truck in the spring. If anyone wants to come drink with me I will provide the beer and clay bars to get the job done. I will even grill some steaks! My truck is an 06. I really hate the look of the moldings on the doors. They get really bad. Will the clay bar work here? Also is the paste wax or the spray wax better to get a longer lasting finish? And hey while we are at it I could use some help installing the cognito 4 to 6!
not sure what you are asking about the moldings..what is it your trying to accomplish?

spray waxes in general are not the best, but paste waxes are a pain, there are many good "liquid" waxes you can buy that work well, Meguiars makes good stuff that is readily available at your local auto parts store

The painted moldings with the mirror strip on the doors of the truck. It is about 3.5 to 4 inches wide. My moldings are painted body color but I have also seen black plastic. My paint on these painted moldings really attract the dirt and grime?
I have always used the paste wax. Used that armor all plate for a while on a truck I really did not care much for because I was not keeping it long. Now I do not know what to go with.

The painted moldings with the mirror strip on the doors of the truck. It is about 3.1 inches wide. My moldings are painted body color but I have also seen black plastic. My paint on these painted moldings really attract the dirt and grime?
I have always used the paste wax. Used that armor all plate for a while on a truck I really did not care much for because I was not keeping it long. Now I do not know what to go with.
oh ok ,then yes you can use the clay bar on them and feel free to throw wax on them to help ease dirt removal, or just take them off completely:D

Try the rubbing alcohol and the clay bar both, but separately. Sometimes you just got to experiment to find the solution. I use nothing but the spray waxes these days. They contain the correct formulation of synthetic and natural ingredients and will last as long as any paste wax. Once again, the modern wonders of advaces in chemical engineering. Nano technology is not just some marketing hype; not that it isn't used that way, but it really is based in fact.

although i dont use spray waxes, i do use the liquid type, and definately cant remember the last time i used a paste wax...way too much work

No. It doesn't fill at all. Clay bars remove any surface contaminated or pollution by "sanding" away surface pollution. Sounds scary, but they work. Imagine a stiff frm of "Playdoh" or "Silly Putty". You can read the "insider" details here if you like, http://www.best-auto-detailing-tips.com/how-to-wax-your-car.html

would you reccomend me doing this myself, or a professional?

You can not hurt any thing and if you do not try you will never now. Just take your time.

Using clay bars are pretty idiot proof. I say go for it. Unless you have a metallic black or non-metallic black, it is no big worry. Just follow the directions on the container. If you have never used, you will be amazed at the difference. The good news is that the more effort you put in, the better your results; weird thing about life that way...
P.S. You most likely will get some residual "skid marks" from the clay when you are using; especially along some of the high points or edges. Don't be worried, as this is normal, and you can remove while you are waxing. You just have to rub a little harder to remove the skid marks.

What if you have a Dark Green metallic. Would there be a problem?

All of this sounds like a lot of time and effort. I'm on sand,clay or gravel roads quite often and feel going into great detail would be fruitless. I've used NuFinish, both paste and liquid on all our vehicles for the last 16 years. The old 94 Mercedes still looks near new. I use NuFinish about 2X per year and it takes about 1 to 2 hours to do the job.

No problem on the dark green metallic. The reality is that clay bars do a certain amount of scratching; despite what manufacturers say. But, it is very fine and and when followed up with waxing, it is either removed by the waxing you do, or covered up by the wax. Everything is about trade-off's; do you want silky smooth paint that will require the clay bar to achieve, or do you want to continually wax over "pollution" that is embeded into your paint. Any car that is driven around will eventually get fall-out (pollution) on it. The only way to remove it is with the clay bar. If a car has lot of fall-out, sure you can spend an hour or two taking it off. If you maintain your car/truck/etc. then it is ongoing maintenance that doesn't require much extra time. I spend maybe ten minutes ever few months to clay bar my rides, and then I follow up with a spray wax. Not counting the wash job, I can do my black Denali within half an hour to clay and wax.
I know NuFinish works, but there are easier products and just like anything, regular maintenance keeps things from getting out of hand.

I didn't think much of clay bars, until I tried it. Now I'm a believer. Wash, keep vehicle wet, clay it, dry it and wax. Hard to believe how much crap the clay removes from the paint. leaves a smoother finish than the wax.:grd:

and just why did it take so long to become a believer?