3 times now my truck has stalled out. Cycle the key and starts back up. No codes. Injector pump was replaced with an oe a couple of years ago. Crossover pipe has slight leak(waiting for new one) but I don"t feel this is the cause. Can anyone give me some pointers?
1999 Chevy 3500
6.5l

pmd

I was figuring that as the culprit. Any recomendations are where to purchase one?

I was looking around and I see they offer different calibration resistors. Not sure which one I should choose. Can someone recomend one?

think everybody goes with the #9 resistor

6.5 f vin with 133,000 miles. stalled when pulling away from dead stop. pulled over looked under the hood, saw nothing wrong and tried to start. It started and got some rpm's, I pulled away and went 100 ft and stalled again. Would not restart. I have fuel to filter and replaced filter, could it be not enough fuel pressure? I thought it should at least idle. When I was being pulled I put it in 4th, (manual) and it started and I got one rev and then it died. I see nothing loose or out of place. I did some checking around town and I'm getting, Injector pump, small black box that controls injector pump.. I ran out of fuel 2 weeks ago but have gone about 600 miles since with no problems. I know that this could shorten the life of the fuel pump but as I said I do have fuel to filter. I cleaned air filter about a week ago. Truck turns over at normal speed, glow plugs and wait light seem to be working fine, no check engine lights. Any help would be appreciated.I need truck for work on Monday

heath recommends the #7 resistor

and i would also have to say its the pmd. i went through the same exact thing. it would stall and restart then stall and id have to wait about 15 minutes to start it back up

Looks like you are having a similar problem. I replaced and relocated my PMD. I used the kit from SSDiesel. However after reading a bunch of posts, I wish i went the relocation kit from Health Diesel. It gets it away fromthe heat of the engine compartment.

ya heath is expensive.but there is a reason behind that. i went with diesel care. its relocated and runs great. found out after i bought it not to deal with dieselcareless. should have gone somewhere else. also found out after that heath recommends the #7 resistor. found that out when i bought the heath gl4. now im finding out the heath gl4 runs exactly the same as the old pcm. just installed it today and im trying to figure out why im not seeing gains

Looks like you are having a similar problem. I replaced and relocated my PMD. I used the kit from SSDiesel. However after reading a bunch of posts, I wish i went the relocation kit from Health Diesel. It gets it away fromthe heat of the engine compartment.

The first time it didn't have time to cool down, maybe 5 minutes. then it just wouldn't start. it spits a few times but nothing else. I'll see what tomorrow brings. did yours give you any signs before hand cause mine just quit. Also did you test it first?

The new PCM is learning give it a few days.

Looks like you are having a similar problem. I replaced and relocated my PMD. I used the kit from SSDiesel. However after reading a bunch of posts, I wish i went the relocation kit from Health Diesel. It gets it away fromthe heat of the engine compartment.

Started truck this morning after sitting all night and it ran for about 20 minutes up to operating temp and then stalled, tried again and it sputtered but that's all. Let it sit for about another hour but wouldn't start. Sound like PCM? Is there a temp sensor anywhere in the fuel system that could be bad? What is the cheapest remote PCM anybody found. looked at Heath Deisel but I don't have 500 plus to spend on it and not 100% thats what it is. Any help appreciated.

Hey CRAZY, Would you have by chance been camping in Naples after christmas? saw a truck a lot like yours.

Installed new remote PMD from Pensacola. Had a ground wire from harness to IP that wasn't mentioned in the directions so I pulled harness up through the front of intake enough to plug in the extension and job took only about 20 minutes. All seems well but does anybody have some input on resistor. Pensacola includes a #9 but wondering how a #7 would help me. Any thoughts.

There is negligible effect on #7 or #9. It is just preference. Use what you have.

X2, and leave the IP ground where it is

Thanks for the feedback, can do about anything to an engine but new to diesels , learned a lot in the last month thanks to the forum.

I wouldn't wait too long to get the crossover pipe fixed. Although it seems like just a mostly harmless exhaust leak, its causing the turbo to get less exhaust gasses, which means you're getting less boost than you should. Less boost = higher EGT's = not good for engine.

Well today service engine light came on, it came on the day after new PMD installed ( about a week ago)but went out after a day. Got it read at Autozone. PO216, PO236, PO251. Cleared them and light back on an hour later but haven't had it read yet. Have been reading about all three but very confusing. Does computer save codes after light has gone out? Could some of them be from before PMD change? The reason I ask is PO236 is low boost, but last month vacuum line broke off turbo, I fixed it but wondering if code could be from that long ago. I didn't get any light when PMD went and it has been running good except for a surge sometimes when going slow down a hill, foot off pedal, 3rd gear and letting engine slow truck. It will jump a few times. PO251 has to do with fuel metering, solenoid,etc. only thing different is #9 resistor. PO216 Injection timing, Don't know what to do about that. I will get it read again tomorrow and see if all 3 show up again. thought I had it fixed with PMD. Anyone have any Ideas?

were did you install the new pmd at.? and are you running the #7 or #9 do you have a boost gauge..? if so whats it run at.....

mounted over at fender well behind battery, next to brake computer, #9 resistor. no boost gauge. that's why I was wondering about old codes being saved because of vacuum line coming off causing low or no boost.

either that or you still have a issue with a bad line...... also could be the boost solenoid..... not sure on a 2000 when i first got my rig i had real low boost. found i had like 6 pin holes in my line. fixed them and had alittle more boost replaced the boost solenoid and works great now................

Line is hard plastic, broke off right at turbo. wondering why it took a week to showup, will look at it tomorrow. is solenoid where the two line meet over at valve cover on driver side?