Yesterday i was rallying my truck on some ice and the front drive shaft broke and tore a hole in my oil filter:( So i drove home about a mile with out knowing i had no oil. anyway today i filled it back up and changed the filter there wasn't any metal at all in the oil so i started it and sounded like it was just fine. once i started driving it though or revved up the moter in park it makes a loud whining sound woooooo like a strong wind blowing in a spooky house. mabe i need to start looking for a new turbo?

Oh man that don't sound good! The No Oil Pressure light never went on and started Ding Ding Dinging? I hope it's just your turbo. If you ever planned on modding, now would be the time.

Good luck

Nick

:(:(:(:(:(:(:(:(:(just took of the turbo horn:(:(:(:(:(:(:(:(:(:(:(:(

After market radio, no ding ding ding i thought the oil was from the transfer case so i drove it home. bad idea. it was dark out

so whatd you find?

Sounds like i might be modding.:RockOn:

The blades on the turbo were rubbing on the housing. Hence the freight train turbo noise

My turbo sounded the same way when my oil thinned out due to diesel. I got a new center section from an IHI dealer for $750.

I have another stock turbo can u replace the insides yourself and if so do you need to remove t=it from the truck?

Does any one know if there is a good wright up on how to remove the turbo? any one have any good deals on a turbo I cant spend any more than $2000 and that's pushing it. i will be eating mac and cheese for awhile for awhile.

quick search

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BD-SuperMax-Turbo-Chevy-Duramax-Diesel-6-6L-LB7-2003_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3a55e73347QQitemZ2 50549318471QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAcc essories

i think there are a few part outs going on as well in the for sale section

I was kinda looking for a used turbo

For 2 Grand you can find a good turbo in the "For Sale" section. Also check out the ads on the DD site. Good luck.

I have a used turbo complete with Banks big head wastegate for sale, perfect condition..cheap.

ben

pm sent

kinda off topic but I took a turbo out of a 1.8L VW Jetta and the bearing was shot, blades were eaten away by the housing. Turbine was about the size of a 50 cent piece.

i just took a turbo off another motor that i have. looks like it must of been bad for awhile. ill post some pics in later. you should not be allowed to post about blown turbo's unless you post some pics of the damage.

I have a stock lmm charger, that I would sell cheap, and then you could buy a vvt controller from Fleece.

Can you mount one on a lb7 with out any extra parts. I would consider it if I could just get the controller from fleece and swap it out with my old one. at least without to much trouble.

I just tore apart a charger off another motor i have sitting around and i'm working on posting up the pics. it was pretty messed up, i hope the motor is still good. i got it for cheap and it was all there except the alternator. just thought if I could ever save enough money I might try to build it. Dreams are good i guess?

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2801/4273570088_b5126cd513_b.jpghttp://farm5.static.flickr.com/4062/4272814741_4a078232b2_o.jpg

looks to me like someone tried to seal off the oil intake with that bolt. the hose was capped off with a bolt and some washers. the guy i got the motor from told me before the motor was changed it was smoking cause the turbo was leaking oil into it. why would someone do this? i wonder if they just wanted to see if it was the turbo making it smoke or if they actually tried to drive it this way. will the turbo start leaking oil and causing smoke before it dies? why else would someone do that.

Going to the VVT turbo is not just a drop in install! Believe me, I know lol

you put cheata vvt in your truck

Does any one know if there is a good wright up on how to remove the turbo? any one have any good deals on a turbo I cant spend any more than $2000 and that's pushing it. i will be eating mac and cheese for awhile for awhile.

Google the BD Supermax installation procedure. I used it to take my IHI off and it is pretty decent. You can get a good used stocker for $200-$300. Lots of them in the market place usually. That is the cheap fix, but not nearly as fun. I think you would get alot more bang for your buck just buying a used "real" turbo for under 2K instead of buying a VVT controller to run another stock turbo that will give you a little more performance.

Yeah I'm running a 68mm VVT LBZ Cheetah on my truck with Braydens's controller. Great power, sound and keeps EGT's in check. Great for a guy wanting to upgrade to the next level. But like I said, not a drop in turbo. And like was said by Remington, a waste of money to buy the controller and just run a stock VVT charger.

Nick

Hope this helps

Turbo replacement procedure:

Disconnect the negative battery cables.
Open the hood and move the hinge bolts to the service position.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Drain the coolant.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Exhaust pipe-to-exhaust outlet clamp and move the clamp onto the exhaust pipe
Transmission fluid fill tube-to-bell housing nuts if equipped with an A/T and position the tube to the right side of the vehicle; it does not need to be removed from the transmission
3 nuts and left exhaust heat shield from the front of the lower dash panel
Left exhaust pipe heat shield bolts
Position the left exhaust pipe heat shield to access the left exhaust pipe-to-manifold bolts but do not remove the heat shield from the vehicle at this time.
Left and right exhaust pipe-to-exhaust manifold bolts
Exhaust manifold gaskets and discard
Lower bolt for the exhaust outlet shield
Lower the vehicle.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Upper intake manifold sight shield front retaining bolt
Sight shield by lifting up on the front of the shield, then lifting it off the rear bracket
Air cleaner outlet duct front he air cleaner and turbocharger and cover the openings to prevent debris from entering Loosen the charged air cooler outlet duct-to-intake hose clamps
Hose from the charged air cooler duct-to-intake manifold tube by twisting it
A/C compressor clutch electrical connector
A/C cut-out switch connector
Drive belt
A/C compressor mounting bolts, then position the compressor aside with the lines attached
Turbocharger inlet coolant hose from the bypass valve
Turbocharger outlet coolant hose from the turbocharger
PCV hose from the left valve cover and position aside
Wire connector from the intake heater
Intake air heater relay, if equipped
Heat shield-to-turbocharger bolts and heat shield
Remaining 2 bolts from the exhaust outlet heat shield
Exhaust outlet heat shield
4 bolts and 2 nuts from the exhaust outlet but you do not have to remove the outlet for turbocharger removal
Move the exhaust outlet to one side in order to access the right exhaust pipe-to-turbocharger bolts.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Exhaust outlet gasket and discard
Right exhaust pipe-to-turbocharger bolts
Right exhaust pipe and gasket
Move the exhaust outlet to one side for access to the left pipe.
Left exhaust pipe heat shield
Left exhaust pipe-to-turbocharger bolts
Left exhaust pipe and gasket
Turbocharger oil supply hose eye bolt and washers and move the hose aside
Turbocharger oil drain pipe nuts from the flywheel housing
Turbocharger mounting bolts
Turbocharger with the oil drain pipe
If replacing the turbocharger, remove the oil drain pipe and coolant hose.
To Install:

Thoroughly clean the gasket surfaces.
Install or connect the following:
Turbocharger oil drain pipe and new gasket and tighten the bolts
Torque to: 16 ft. lbs. (21 Nm)
Turbocharger inlet coolant hose
Turbocharger oil supply hose to the engine block
Turbocharger oil supply hose eye bolt and washers and tighten the eye bolt
Torque to: 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm)
Turbocharger lower heat shield
Turbocharger and tighten the 3 mounting bolts
Torque to: 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm)
New gasket for oil drain pipe
Oil drain pipe nuts and tighten the nuts
Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm)
NOTE: If installing a new turbocharger, pour 4-5 oz. of clean engine oil into the turbocharger supply hose opening, while rotating the impeller.

Oil supply hose, using new washers and tighten the eye bolt
Torque to: 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm).
NOTE: Position the left exhaust pipe. The pipe flanges are different. Ensure the proper pipe flange is towards the turbocharger. Align the turbocharger gaskets at the turbocharger with the tab on the gasket facing inward. To aid in installing the pipe to the turbocharger temporarily install one of the pipe to manifold bolts.

Left exhaust pipe to the turbocharger with a new gasket and tighten the bolts
Torque to: 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm)
Position the left exhaust pipe heat shield, but do not install the bolts.
Install or connect the following:
Right exhaust pipe with a new gasket to the turbocharger
Right exhaust pipe to turbocharger bolts and tighten the bolts
Torque to: 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm)
Exhaust outlet with a new gasket to the turbocharger
Exhaust outlet bolts and nuts and tighten the bolts/nuts
Torque to: 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm)
Exhaust outlet heat shield
Upper 2 exhaust outlet heat shield bolts and tighten the bolts
Torque to: 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm)
Turbocharger heat shield
Turbocharger heat shield bolts and tighten the bolts
Torque to: 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm)
PCV hose to the upper left valve rocker arm cover
Turbocharger outlet coolant hose to the turbocharger
Turbocharger inlet coolant hose to the turbocharger coolant bypass valve
Inlet air heater relay
Wire terminal and the nut to intake air heater and tighten the nut
Torque to: 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm)
A/C compressor
A/C compressor bolts and tighten the bolts
Torque to: 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)
Drive belt
A/C cut out switch electrical connector
A/C clutch electrical connector
Remove the tape from the turbocharger openings if necessary.
Install or connect the following:
Charged air cooler snip duct and align the mark on the duct with the mark on the turbocharger
Clamp for proper clearance and tighten the clamp
Torque to: 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm)
Charged air cooler outlet duct on the intake and align the mark on the duct with the mark on the intake
Clamp for proper clearance and tighten the clamp
Torque to: 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm)
Outlet duct to turbocharger
Align the outlet duct alignment indicator to the turbocharger alignment indicator.
NOTE: The outlet duct must be fully seated against the MAT/IAT sensor with the edge of the seal in the vertical position.

Install or connect the following:
Outlet duct to the MAT/IAT sensor and tighten the outlet duct clamps at the turbocharger and the MAT/IAT sensor
Torque to: 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm)
Raise the vehicle.
Install or connect the following:
Lower exhaust outlet heat shield bolt and tighten the bolt
Torque to: 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm)
Right exhaust pipe with a new gasket to exhaust manifold and align the tab on the exhaust pipe gasket facing outward
Right exhaust pipe bolts and tighten the bolts
Torque to: 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm)
Left exhaust pipe with a NEW gasket to exhaust manifold and align the tab on the exhaust pipe gasket facing outward
Left exhaust pipe bolts and tighten the bolts
Torque to: 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm)
Left exhaust pipe heat shield
Left exhaust pipe heat shield bolts and tighten the bolts
Torque to: 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm)
Exhaust heat shield to left font of the dash panel
Shield nuts and tighten the nuts
Torque to: 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm)
Fill tube if equipped
Fill tube nuts and tighten the nuts
Torque to: 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm)
Exhaust pipe clamp
NOTE: To assist in positioning the clamp on the flanges use a suitable screw jack to hold the exhaust pipe in position.

Tighten the clamp
Torque to: 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm)
Lower the vehicle.
Fill the cooling system.
Install or connect the following:
Upper intake manifold cover
Upper intake manifold cover to the outlet duct and tighten the outlet duct clamp at the upper intake manifold cover
Torque to: 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm)
Position the hood in the normal operating position by moving the hood hinge bolts from the service position to the normal operating position and tighten the bolts.
Torque to: 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)
Connect the negative battery cables.
Road test the vehicle for normal operation.
Inspect for coolant, oil, or exhaust leaks.
NOTE: Operate the engine at idle for at least 3 minutes after installing the turbocharger.

Thanks RBK that is a good list

I,m really just weighing all my options. I don't really want another stoker even though its the easiest and cheapest rout. I could only afford a turbo break and stock charger. It would only be for temporary.I've read every post about this and still cant find a list of things I would need for install. I have not found an after market turbo as of yet. What do you guys think of this one.

What i have for sale is a 3794 with a 68mm compressor wheel. This charger is ball bearing and spools quickly, similiar to the stock charger just a bit more whistle. This was originally the powermax charger and with the help of brayden transformed into the 3794. This turbo has 4 pulls on it and 5000 miles. This charger is a very dependable charger (dual cartiage) water and oil cooled. During my pulling season with stock injectors and modified pump 20% this turbo would clean up all the smoke (40psi) and put me in the top 3. This turbo is also great for sneaking into the street class, I would always pull it in the prostock class with the big guns and it did well.

I have two options available and they are not set in stone:
The complete kit pedistal, downpipe, oil, and water lines 2000
Just the charger 1500

Reason for leaving such a great charger: This charger is great for stock injectors and modded pump but I now have 60overs and plan on dual fuelers...so now that i will be having more fuel i will need more air.

pm me if you have any questions and i will give you my cell.

If you want to know what kind of turbo you're looking for then check this page out, it covers everything from the basics of turbocharging to figuring out what specs. suit the build you're going for. It's from the Garrett web-site but the same principles apply accross the board.

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/tech_center/turbo_tech101.html