I think I have settled on a new shop. At this stage I am just beginning to plan but I want it to be 30’W x 50’L x 10’H. It will be a metal building, wooden post construction on a concrete slab.

I am interested in suggestions as to WHAT and WHAT NOT to include or do. Keep in mind that it will be used for almost anything, not just trucks.

Any and all suggestions will be considered.

maybe make it a bit higher to accomdate a future lift?

maybe make it a bit higher to accomdate a future lift?

Exactly...and not just for a lift either..10' is rather short, especially if you end up with a tall trailer that you have to bring in to work on...

That is correct. A 2wd truck with a slide in is approx 12 feet tall with air conditioning.

Plenty of wireing for lights and plugs and atleast two 220 outlets at each end.
Are you planning on going with a 4" thick concrete pad?
Also make plans for a ventilation system. This will help for hot days and also for being able to run vehicles inside.

Do you plan to partition the shop? Separate spaces for metalworking/welding and woodworking (if you're going to do either of these) is pretty important, particularly separating the woodworking from all else. Good insulation is worth it if you intend to heat. An I-beam that you could put a rolling hoist on would be really nice. Run propane/gas and water to the shop if you can (also waste water from the shop). Other stuff: At least two overhead doors, Lots of benches with Lots of 110v receptacles, two 30 amp 220v circuits, Lots of lights (more than you think you'll need will probably still not be enough), Some translucent sky lights would be really nice if they don't overheat the shop, Windows for natural light, Big utility sink, pipe it for compressed air and get the biggest compressor you can afford, Lots of shelves for spare parts . . .

6" slab with 4000 psi 3/8 stone and wire mesh. You could drive a loaded semi on it

I would go 14' door. Lots of 5th wheels will not fit in 12' door.

Build it as big as you can afford. It will never be too big and you will always wish you went bigger.

Oh Yes! I like the suggestions so far, keep them coming.

Yep got a 12' w x 14' h door, couldn't ask for a better size. I can get my TT in and my semi. As far as the concrete, IIRC I've got 6" with 10-12" beams. Make sure you get a good concrete finisher, to make it as smooth as glass. Helps when sweeping and cleaning up.:)



I would go 14' door. Lots of 5th wheels will not fit in 12' door.

Build it as big as you can afford. It will never be too big and you will always wish you went bigger.

Two more items.
A large refrigerator for the choice drinks and an intercom for the significant other to talk to you.

Make sure you go with a floor drain and enough slope to get the water there.

I would also recommend floor heat. At very minimum put the pipes in so you can add it later.

6" slab with 4000 psi 3/8 stone and wire mesh. You could drive a loaded semi on it


Why 3/8s stone?

Two more items.
A large refrigerator for the choice drinks and an intercom for the significant other to talk to you.



Large refrigerator, yes....Intercom...uh no....make it a 27-32" TV instead, then lock the doors....:D

Every recommendation so far is what I would suggest also. But, in addition you may want to put in a bathroom with a shower. On the outside bathroom wall in my shop, I also have a double Stainless sink for washing up with hand cleaner. The room would only need to be 6'X6' which is what I have. Can't tell you how handy it can be.

Maybe a small air conditioned "office" also to have a place for manuals, computer with telephone line/cable connection, ect.... Could just be a place to hang out and unwind and relax.

Also, think about piping your air to different places in the shop where you think you may need to use it. (Point of use). Keeps from dragging air hoses all over the place.

I spend as much time in my shop as I do in my house.

Make sure you go with a floor drain and enough slope to get the water there.

I would also recommend floor heat. At very minimum put the pipes in so you can add it later.

I have never installed floor heat in a garage, but one of our builders made a comment about floor heat in a garage that made since to me.
He said that in places that have alot of rain or snow you will track that inside and it will run off onto the floor. Then the heat from the floor will cause it to be humid inside and then start to mold on the walls.
But again I have heard from others that have the infloor heating and they say they like it and the floor is nice and warm.

Needed to roll around under the truck while visiting a friend in Pgh in January. Snow on the ground and single digit temps. Heated floor in his shop was awesome.

Not sure I'd incur the expense in GA for as much use as it would get.

Think about lots of translucent panels on the south wall - there's nothing better than lots of natural light for working.

I have never installed floor heat in a garage, but one of our builders made a comment about floor heat in a garage that made since to me.
He said that in places that have alot of rain or snow you will track that inside and it will run off onto the floor. Then the heat from the floor will cause it to be humid inside and then start to mold on the walls.
But again I have heard from others that have the infloor heating and they say they like it and the floor is nice and warm.

I don't know if I would believe that. Either way you look at it if you heat your shop the snow will melt off. If you have regular fan forced air it can take your truck 24 hours or more to melt off. With floor heat you can cut that in half, at least. Not to mention how much faster the floor dries with floor heat.

Ive got a heated floor in my garage and i love it! A truck brought in from -30c will be well on its way thawing in 2hrs. As far as humidity goes it depends on the amount of water laying on floor. If it gets too bad i open overhead door for a min then its good again. I do wish that i installed an exhaust fan that turned on when the humidity got to a certain point. Working on the truck in the winter is nice compared to a regular heated shop. Laying on the floor is easy to do for hours if needed. Would i recomend it to anyone? HELL YA i would !

No doubt, floor heat is nice, but in Georgia, I'd put my money elsewhere.

As an old dirt track racer (my driving tactics there gave me my username), I highly reccomend tie downs in the floor. When you get something bent, like a frame or anything else they'll come in mighty handy. You can chain it down and use a big bottle jack to push it back straight.
The neatest example I've seen had the anchors set down inside those small 6" utiity covers you see where they have valves, etc. in the street for the waterlines. When not in use, put the cover back on. Should be set with the cover level with rest of floor when installed.
You do need to dig out a deeper hole in the dirt under the floor wherte the anchor will be located so that you have plenty of concrete around the anchors.
I bought the bldg I use as a shop and have occassion to need some tie downs in straightening a frame horn after a collision. No anchors, had to use a steel beam!

Maybe the key to proper air flow for humidity would be the exhuast fans. I would like a heated floor. Just thought I would point out some of the possible problems with it.
Anchors in the floor would also be an excelent idea.

I am finishing my shop this summer. I put in the tubing for in floor heat. All it took was one time on the unheated garage floor in North Pole to convince me. The garage was heated to 65 degrees. However, the outside temp was minus 65 and that floor was mighty damned cold!! In GA, maybe not needed. I am using a natural gas fired boiler. Great lil unit puts out 90,000 BTU, 98% efficient and will also supply domestic hot water for my deep sink and shower as well as providing hot water to the forced air heater I will use to help with temperature recovery after opening and closing the shop door in the winter. Compressed air is being routed around the shop, 9 million electrical outlets. Some one said put a 30 amp 220 outlet at each end. Don't just blindly do that. Check your welder's requirements first. Mine requires 50 amp outlets. if you are doing the electric yourself, keep the big draw outlets on separate lines. For you little 110 stuff, 15 amp, make sure the first one coming from the box is a GFCI outlet and that all outlets on the same line are wired properly so that GFCI outlet will protect them/you!!

I also did conduit on the walls instead of running the wiring in the walls. Sure makes things a lot easier to change in the future.

Lifts are quite reasonable now as well. Plan a place for a lift in the futures. Actually, I recommend doing it right away. You will never regret a lift.

Lots of lighting! You can never have too much lighting.

Make sure everything is low or or no maintenance. Even if its costs you more up front you will not regret it down the road.

what about the infared(sp?) or IR heaters that mount in the ceiling and actually heat the concrete. Ir might be called radiant heat or something like that. this huge garage had only 3 and the floor and the whole building was warm as toast at around 10F

The shop has to be tall enough to install a lift. A room 16' tall is
a good idea.

Plan on using pallet rack to store stuff. It is cheap, easy to put
up and flexible.

In the floor you should mount tie downs. There are two main types:
a) Lay in two sections of railroad track so the track breaks through
the surface of the concrete. You tack weld to that.
b) Pots or pull points. You can buy pots, but a 3/4" coupling
nut welded to small plate, backed up by a 16" concrete anchor
is quick and strong.

Use electronic ballast high-efficiency lighting. It will pay back in
a year or two.

Commercial built-in vacuum is nice.

Here is an uncommon one. You want a drive-up exterior room
with a roll-up door. In the room you put a 2-flue masonary
chimmney, twin 275 gallon oil tanks and your compressor. Also,
you take your Diesel welder/generator and put it in there. Vent
the generator into the chimmney.
Inside the garage use a forced hot air oil furnace for heat.
You can also vent your car and truck exhaust up the flue not
used by the furnace. Since you can close the doors, what
you have is a dyno load cell building. The chimmney acts like
a giant muffler.

A masonary room or at least double fire-rated sheetrock is the
right thing for storage of flammable solvents.

Run 1" copper pipe for air. Make sure the air plumbing all slants
toward the low-point drain.

In addition to your fridge, shower and laundry sinks, you really
want a dishwasher for parts cleaning, an electric oven for
heating things up, and a washer/dryer for rags and dirty work
clothes.

It is hard to beat a gantry crane for picking up and moving stuff.

Put in 2 sets of emergency lights. Make SURE one illuminates the
generator area.

Plan on using pallet rack to store stuff. It is cheap, easy to put up and flexible.

Pallet racks are great, and sometimes FREE!!!! I've got about 12-15 12' sections up. They store metal, 2x4's, plywood, spare crap, and made one into a bulk wire holder. Just welded on some pipe, and rods to hold the spools, (wire is also free sometimes;) )


In addition to your fridge, shower and laundry sinks, you really want a dishwasher for parts cleaning, an electric oven for
heating things up, and a washer/dryer for rags and dirty work
clothes.

Uhhhhhh.........Isn't that considered a house at that point?:eek: ):h

Originally Posted by Frank_EP
Plan on using pallet rack to store stuff. It is cheap, easy to put up and flexible.


Excuse my ignorance but what are pallet racks?

I am getting some great ideas here. I only hope my money holds out. So far, the building with slab, nothing else is around $13k. The ups and extras are still to come. I will do all of the ups and extras work myself. I am retiring July 1 and looking forward building a shop and fixing it up the way I want it.

Thanks for all the ideas and keep them coming. There have been several suggestions made here I would never have thought of.

They are racks to hold pallets so you can stack upwards and save floor space.

Do you have Home Depots down there, Sam's club, H3ll any kind of warehouse store uses pallet racks. I got mine from my Father-in-law, they were moving to a new facility and had stacks of these things, plus alot of other goodies too.;)

If you havent done the concrete work yet make the outer wall 12-16 inches tall with concrete. that way if you get water all over or want to wash something in there it will not ruin the sheetrock or plywood on the walls. Some people will say it is not necessary but after I built my first shop I will never do it again without it. It also keeps you from busting sheet rock with your creeper or jacks.

Gotta have a floor drain.
Lots a light.
My new shop all the walls are covered with white plastic, we call them hog panels, they are used alot commercialy in kitchens and bathrooms. they are very hard to stain. you NEVER paint them and everything wipes right off them. Super easy to clean.

Make sure if you arent putting in central air that 1 of your windows is big enough for a window a/c unit. Just knocking the humidity out of the shop can make it so much easier to work in.

Most importantly have FUN Building your shop. It can be VERY stressful with all the problems that can pop up

Hog panels? Are you talking about a sheet of plastic? What size, how much, and where do you get them?

Menards can get them they are white, some may have a little texture on them. they come in 4x8 sheets. Most home supply store can get them.Very nbright and very nice. Also some are 1/8 inch think or you can get 1/4 thick

Also known as Polymax Board (http://www.teksupply.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&storeId=10001&productId=58779&langId=-1&division=TekSupply&parent_category_rn=38854&top_category=&breadcrumb_trail=Building+Materials%7CPolyMax+Boar ds&breadcrumb_categoryIds=38358%7C38854&isDoc=)from teksupply.com

That stuff is pretty expensive, but I can see building a shop out of concrete, especially in Georgia where heating isn't a big issue. All that thermal mass will help keep the building cool in the summer, particularly if you give the roof a good size eave and maybe add a little perimeter insulation below grade. Also, if you do stick frame, I would consider plywood on the interior for the first 8' up from the slab in places where you might want to hang stuff. Being able to drive a nail or screw in a hook anywhere you want is a big bonus.

Plywood behind sheetrock would be good, otherwise you may have a building code issue.

Hog panels? Are you talking about a sheet of plastic? What size, how much, and where do you get them?

It is called FRP here is some good info about it http://www.kemlite.com/frp_encyclopedia.cfm#what_is_frp

Another option, although kind of pricey, is http://www.epsbuildings.com/. When my brother built his new shop, that is the company he got it from. The sections are pre-fabbed with a steel outer shell, then plywood, then a foam core. The walls go together like a big lego set. His is a 60X60X16 building, and about 6 of us guys put all the walls up in one day. The building is at least 10 years old now, and still looks like the day we put it up. Since he is a mechanic, the inside does get a little dingy after a while with dust and exhaust residue, but it cleans easily with a mop and soapy water. Dang energy efficient as well. He keeps it about 70 degrees in there year round and his heating/cooling bills for the shop are less than for his house (both have Lennox pulse furnaces and central air units).

Thanks for the info guys. That stuff looks nice. Habanero, very interesting. I have to put up a barn this summer. That looks like a good way to go!

Shipping to AK might kill you, though. My brother's shop came on 3 semis (rafters alone took up one semi).

I've built many garages for customers over the years.

Size does matter, however the layout and built-ins are what seperate the good from the not quite right garages. You can add any number of features like compressors and lifts, but here a few of my do's and don'ts for the base garage.

Always use Attic Trusses. You know you are going to store things in the rafters. These trusses have more room and are designed to handle the weight. While your at it, make sure there is outside access to the attic space so you can get larger objects in and out.

10' wide doors minimum. 4' to each side of door minimum. This 4' can be shared with the adjacent bay.

10' ceilings. If you ever want to have a lift, go 12' in at least one bay.

Provisions for water and a good floor drain. Do not put a grate drain under a bay. Bolts will jump in the drain every chance they get. The best place for grate drain seems to be just inside the garage door with the floor sloping towards it.

The bays should be 10' longer than your longest vehicle if you are going to work on them in comfort. No less than 24' long.

100 AMP service for a hobby garage. 200 if you are going to do real work. It is OK to have more than you need.....today.

No open flame appliances near the floor in the garage. Preferably none at all in the garage. It is a bad mix with paint fumes, gasoline, and most cleaning fluids.

A seperate room for the compressor, furnace, generator and any other mechanicals goes a long way to keep the garage quieter and less cluttered.

5" slab for normal garage. 6" for the serious garage.

Northern climates really benifit from in floor heat. Absolutly the best thing you can do to make your garage great. I don't think it is as much a deal for the southern climates.

i think you should make it double the size you're planning on. that way when your kid comes over, he'll have space to do his own thing too!;)

-matt

When I was building my shop, everyone always said build it bigger than you think you need... everybody likes their building but wishes it was a little bigger. I went 48x60x14 ft high center, 12 1/2 at the walls. I have sliding (farm style) doors at both ends. They're great, give a huge opening for driving anything in or out, and with both ends open, the ventillation is great for summer. No insulation here in NC, trying to cut costs. Mine is a Morton building, and I am very pleased with the looks and quality.
One of my best decisions was to install some skylights in the metal roof. These are fiberglass panels that allow natural light in, and I have four along one side of the ridge of the roof, on the side I don't see from my house so to me the roof is all pretty. They do a great job with light during the day and I seldom ever turn on lights except at night.
I bought a 4 post lift (Autolifters) which is mobile. I used 6 inch concrete, fiberglass reinforced, because I didn't want to have to worry about breaking my concrete with anything I might want to drive in my shop some day.
You can PM me if you want more details on my arrangement.
Good luck.

Every recommendation so far is what I would suggest also. But, in addition you may want to put in a bathroom with a shower. On the outside bathroom wall in my shop, I also have a double Stainless sink for washing up with hand cleaner. The room would only need to be 6'X6' which is what I have. Can't tell you how handy it can be.

Maybe a small air conditioned "office" also to have a place for manuals, computer with telephone line/cable connection, ect.... Could just be a place to hang out and unwind and relax.

Also, think about piping your air to different places in the shop where you think you may need to use it. (Point of use). Keeps from dragging air hoses all over the place.

I spend as much time in my shop as I do in my house.

I have run the air supply all around my workshop using 1/2" POLYTHENE HP water pipe and poly compression fittings...so easy and cheap!!
http://www.ppi.com.au/ecatalogue/index.cfm
goto to poly PE ...on left hand side menu...then GF+RURAL GREEN FITTINGS...just if you want a idea of what we have here in australia.....maybe you have the same in USA.....BUT MAYBE your behind the times over there!!!!!!.....poly compression fittings that seal with a "O ring".

also I can highly recommend poly-carbonate sheeting in roof for natural lighting as well as electric lights.....cant beat natural lighting!

I haven't had that good of luck with poly pipe/comp. fittings in other uses, but haven't used them for air line. I just ran copper tubing in my garage.

I used schedule 40 PVC pipe in a previous shop I had. It worked quite well. The only problem is you can not pull on it much because it will break off.

Ah yes, bigger is always better. This is my second one on my property and during ground breaking on both I said "Man, I knew I shoulda made it bigger!!"



632063216322

Yep, that one is obviously only about half of the size you'll need! I put in a 30 by 40 shop last year. My wife is not real happy with me now building a 12 by 20 storage shed next to it! What she doesn't know is that I plan another 12 by 36 room on the back side of the barn we are putting in. A man can NEVER have too much shop space!

Yep, the one pictured above is a 30 by 40. The first one was/is 26 by 30. Next one, if I can ever afford it will be 40 by 60!!!

I have sort of settled on a shop. It will be 30x50x10. Here are a few pictures of what it will look like.http://www.myimagehosting.com/pic.php?u=309FsOXh&i=8450

http://www.myimagehosting.com/pic.php?u=309FsOXh&i=8451

http://www.myimagehosting.com/pic.php?u=309FsOXh&i=8452


I am going to use some of the suggestions I have received from y'all. I will post the list when I get it compiled.

Ok, with reading all of this information on shops, ya'll got me to pull in my schedule by a year. I'm planning on building a 30' deep x 40' wide with (2) 10' bay doors and one personal door on the 40' side. In addition I will have a 15' x 40' bay for my 5th wheel. This bay will have a 12' wide x 14' high door. Now my question is this, with a 14' garage door, what is the minimal height of my ceiling? I'm thinking I may go with a 16' tall ceiling in the entire shop.

Your opinions are much appreciated.

Thanks,

MaxRock

Ok, with reading all of this information on shops, ya'll got me to pull in my schedule by a year. I'm planning on building a 30' deep x 40' wide with (2) 10' bay doors and one personal door on the 40' side. In addition I will have a 15' x 40' bay for my 5th wheel. This bay will have a 12' wide x 14' high door. Now my question is this, with a 14' garage door, what is the minimal height of my ceiling? I'm thinking I may go with a 16' tall ceiling in the entire shop.

Your opinions are much appreciated.

Thanks,

MaxRock

Check with your door manufacturer for headroom requirements. Usually 16" minimum. IMO super tall ceilings are a waste unless you have a real need for the extra height.

Ok, with reading all of this information on shops, ya'll got me to pull in my schedule by a year. I'm planning on building a 30' deep x 40' wide with (2) 10' bay doors and one personal door on the 40' side. In addition I will have a 15' x 40' bay for my 5th wheel. This bay will have a 12' wide x 14' high door. Now my question is this, with a 14' garage door, what is the minimal height of my ceiling? I'm thinking I may go with a 16' tall ceiling in the entire shop.

Your opinions are much appreciated.

Thanks,

MaxRock
Sounds about right to me. In my shop (pictured above & not quite done yet), I'll have a 16' wide x 12' high roll up door
and my ceiling is 14'

Let good times begin!! :)

i just built/still needs lights all wired up a 26/56 with 1/2 reg truss and in the rear half scissor truss to make room for lift. the garage is in a residual area in town. the thing i messed up the most is i put the lift in the middle in back part thinking i'll just be working on my rockcrawler, yeah i forgot how many friends i have or got once the news got out i got a lift. anyway i have to pull out everything to free it up. should have put to the right side twenty foot from garage door. and you can never make the doors wide or tall enough. i did put in four 220 plugs two middle and front and rear. for welder/plamsa/ four floor drains/bathroom/surround sound big screen built in ac and heat. may be the reason all the friends want to hang out and you never know when the better half kicks you out. all i can say you can never build it to big/ never enough plug outlets/garage doors again/ have fun and it is the guys palace!

Check with your door manufacturer for headroom requirements. Usually 16" minimum. IMO super tall ceilings are a waste unless you have a real need for the extra height.

The only reason I have the high ceiling is to put my 5th wheel inside. It's 12' tall at the highest point. I may carry the ceiling height throughout the rest of the shop...but I have to see what the price impact is going to be.

Thanks for the response.

MaxRock

Now for the next question...what type of lighting are you using? Is there some rule of thumb for square footage vs. light requirement and type?

Thanks,

MaxRock

WOW Glad I found this thread as I am just starting the process to build a 30x50x10 shop. I will be putting two overhead doors in the side wall and one 10' door in the south end just in case I want to build another big truck someday. I am putting doors in the side wall due to the way it will set behind the house. I am planning on a 10x15 Office, still fighting the kids for the big screen for out there, but will put books and computer and the rest of my office out there. Putting a 10x10 store room in the back corner over the storm shelter thats already in the ground. looking at a small wash room but now maybe put sink outside of that room and put a shower in there with a toilet. Planning on a lift later. I will keep tracking this thread for more ideas. Thanks guys:exactly:

Ok I will start here rather than read all of the prior. we have a 42'x 60' x (15' i think) and it is a great size although a lean-to is on the way to store more toys like atv's and snowmobiles. anyway we have tie downs or anchors in the floor with pipe.

any edges you have where you drive in and out, put a piece of heavy angle iron on the edge to keep it from chipping up.

we have the florecent light bubs on the side walls ALL the way around ...... (top lights create shadows when working under things)

put the radiant heat in the floor.

(out door wood burner would be cheap heat)

insulate insulate insulate. we have 10" of blown insulation in our shop ceiling and 2-3 in the side walls.... yes it cost $$$$$$ but in the long run it is EXTREMELY cheap to heat.

http://www.mortonbuildings.com/

the materials they use are second to none.

we had to replace a piece of steel after our building was 10 years old, and the new piece was the same color as the old peice except for all the fly crap.

our concrete was poured with fiber glass rather than re-bar. it has held up great. we have 5" thick on the out side but it goes to 8" the closer you get to the center of the floor or torward the front door.

you need to have a drain with a clean out. (a steel grated top, the plastic won't last)

we also have a permanent work bench off to the left of the door. it has a 1 inch thick steel top. and the steel posts it sets on were pour into the concrete.

you need plunty of outlets. our aircompressor sets on top of our bathroom ceiling.

this is just for starters.

I have looked at Morton's website and their brochures - seems to be a reputable and high quality manufacturer/builder. I am not sure, but in the brochure it appears that for pole building, they actually set the posts on top of slab and anchor it down. Is that right?

What would be the ballpark figures for installing radiant floor heating for say, 30x50 shop?

I put in-floor het into my 30x40 shop. Parts came to approx $2000, I did the labor myself. I'm using a 96,000 btu boiler that will handle domestic hot water on demand as well as the imn-floor heat. It's natural gas, 95% efficient. It will also handle a radiator with fan for heat recovery when the door is opened in the winter.

Morton buildings use posts sunk in the ground, not sitting on the concrete. The floor gets poured after the building is up. I have a 48x60x13.5 Morton and I'm very happy with the quality. I get many compliments.
I can give you lots more details but you can go to their web site and read all about it.
I have the biggest double sliding doors I could fit on both ends of the building, which give me about 12 ft door clearance. I used galvanized angle iron on the edges of the floor where you drive into the building as mentioned above, this is actually a recommendation from their owner's manual. Very smart.
PM me if you have specific questions.
Jim

Hey Guys & Gals, this thread would really be nice with more pics of these shops!!


:nopics:

Morton buildings use posts sunk in the ground, not sitting on the concrete. The floor gets poured after the building is up.

That is how I think they do to build pole buildings. I re-checked the brochure again to verify and I have just learned that they offer two different ways to mount the posts. One method is in-ground (common) and another method is to anchor posts down on concrete slab. Of course without a doubt I would go with in-ground posts method. I just read somewhere on their website that they dig holes 4 feet deep and use 50lbs concrete base with additional 50lbs concrete poured around the lower part of posts in-ground. Then the rest get backfilled with dirt.

I'll second what SteveNorCal said above. :D

Build the lifts into the floor b4 you pour the slab?

If you want a lift, you can do like I did and get a 4 post lift (my autolifters brand is heavy-duty enough to lift my duramax crew cab) which is free standing. Other 4 post brands require bolting to the floor. Many 2 post versions bolt to the floor but have all the lifting mechanism above the floor. The old fashioned garage lifts that required building into the floor are mostly a thing of the past.
I wanted to be able to take mine with me, although many mechanics prefer 2 post lifts. Different strokes for different folks.

Has anybody seen or heard of miracletruss buildings? www.miracletruss.com (http://www.miracletruss.com). I have decided to build a 40x60x16. Still not sure which supplier to go with. I live in Vegas so not to concerned about heating.Any suggestions would be appreciated. I will use shop mostly for metal fabrication, welding and car truck repair.

My is 48 by 60. You'll like the space. Like I mentioned above, my is by Morton Buildings. Being in Vegas, you might want to pay attention to the paint used on the metal buildings to find sun resistant kinds and colors so it doesn't look too faded in a few years. Pay close attention to the quality of construction. And consider some "skylites", mine are opaque fiberglass panels in parts of the roof that help tremendously with indoor lighting. Can't beat natural light!

If you live in Vegas you want a Kynar Paint. It has the best warranty on the sub-strate and paint (40 yr ). My business is building Pole Barns. Morton does set the post in the ground, if you set them on top of the slab then it's more like a stick built building, which is more expensive!! I'd be more than happy to answer any questions. Here are some pics of my shop, still working on it.

Ok I will start here rather than read all of the prior. we have a 42'x 60' x (15' i think) and it is a great size although a lean-to is on the way to store more toys like atv's and snowmobiles. anyway we have tie downs or anchors in the floor with pipe.

any edges you have where you drive in and out, put a piece of heavy angle iron on the edge to keep it from chipping up.

we have the florecent light bubs on the side walls ALL the way around ...... (top lights create shadows when working under things)

put the radiant heat in the floor.

(out door wood burner would be cheap heat)

insulate insulate insulate. we have 10" of blown insulation in our shop ceiling and 2-3 in the side walls.... yes it cost $$$$$$ but in the long run it is EXTREMELY cheap to heat.

http://www.mortonbuildings.com/

the materials they use are second to none.

we had to replace a piece of steel after our building was 10 years old, and the new piece was the same color as the old peice except for all the fly crap.

our concrete was poured with fiber glass rather than re-bar. it has held up great. we have 5" thick on the out side but it goes to 8" the closer you get to the center of the floor or torward the front door.

you need to have a drain with a clean out. (a steel grated top, the plastic won't last)

we also have a permanent work bench off to the left of the door. it has a 1 inch thick steel top. and the steel posts it sets on were pour into the concrete.

you need plunty of outlets. our aircompressor sets on top of our bathroom ceiling.

this is just for starters.

Take it from me, all those fancy brochures cost something!! Don't think that you as the customer are not paying for them. YOU ARE!!! Just something to keep in mind when thinking of a builder. I could go on forever, about them.

I will try to attach some pictures of my Morton Building. In no way am I suggesting Morton is the best, I don't work for them, I have no hidden interests. But I have friends with metal buildings by other builders and there are differences, some obvious and some more subtle.

This one is 48x60x14. The sliding doors were chosen to be the biggest that would fit on the ends of the building (both ends, for air flow and light as well as entry exit.) The height is adequate for my lift to elevate my truck so I can walk underneath.
I tried to show some features like the raised chord trusses which give more height in the center of the building, the laminated posts, the bird proofing wire mesh at the soffits and top ridge vent, the skylites, and the working cupula. Since I'm in NC where it gets plenty hot, and I chose to economize and not do insulation or HVAC, ventillation was very important to me. I could've added a fan in the cupula to help pull air up and out, but didn't think it was necessary since it is a shop, not an animal barn.

couple more pics.

Sales and marketing are a part of any business, and the bigger the business, the bigger the marketing department and budget. But, there is also economy of scale, and the cost versus reward of going with a local builder or a national company are personal considerations and not easy decisions.
I just hope that everybody who builds a shop ends up basically happy with their result.
Jim

2fast2 If you don't mind, roughly how much do you have into your shop (EVERYTHING, including site prep, concrete, wiring, lift, etc.) I need to know roughly how much to budget, and I really like your building!

Maybe Morton will give me a discount, since I live 10 miles from their headquarters in Morton, IL. :lol:

Under $40K.
Onviously things like site prep and lift and make that go to $50K.
But that is a ballpark from late 2003 in NC.

guys with sliding doors in colder climates how do you get them to seal up good in the winter months as far as heating the garage?

Thanks Travis

Not sure if anyone is interested but I run the CA plant for Components Plus Inc. We manufacture metal building components, cee studs, purlins, roof panels and wall panels. We have a plant near Dallas, TX and one near Memphis, Tenn. Here's our web sites:

www.componentsplusinc.com

www.ribroof.com

If you're interested I can put you in contact with the right guys and get you the DP.com deal or if you have questions feel free to PM me and I'll answer as much as I can.

Chris Mock

guys with sliding doors in colder climates how do you get them to seal up good in the winter months as far as heating the garage?

Thanks TravisWell the sliders are used for a cold storage building and do not seal well at all. I have a commercial 18x14 roll up that does fine in the winter and a slider on one side 20 ft wide.

Just remember guys when building a shop. Any question you ask yourself will come back to haunt you later in life "I wish I did" on any decision you made about size or money. Set your goals and budget and plan on hidden costs, so be prepared.

For us cold climate guys a concrete footer under each door is a must on any building steel or framed. Watch or ask how the truss is made and pay attention to sidewall height. I have a 16ft sidewall with a normal tracked overhead door off-set to the side. Some buildings do not allow an off-set door because of truss construction or require a short radius track for the door.

An alarm system keeps the trash out of your shop, a pro will walk right by it. Your investment should include an alarm system. Outside lights should be included in your plans. Don't assume you will be home with Mr. Smith at all times. ):h

Hey guys,

I am looking at a 40'x40' by 14' high shop. All steel c-purlin with sunken posts. I will design and build this myself. I intend to store the 5th wheel on one side, park both trucks, and use the rest for the shop. Obviously if I am doing a big project, the trucks will stay outside till finished. Size is non negotiable (squeezed in between trees next to house).

I plan on putting this beside the house (only cleared area, I DO NOT WANT TO CLEAR ANYMORE TREES!!!). How much space should I keep between the shop and the house?

Hey guys,

I am looking at a 40'x40' by 14' high shop. All steel c-purlin with sunken posts. I will design and build this myself. I intend to store the 5th wheel on one side, park both trucks, and use the rest for the shop. Obviously if I am doing a big project, the trucks will stay outside till finished. Size is non negotiable (squeezed in between trees next to house).

I plan on putting this beside the house (only cleared area, I DO NOT WANT TO CLEAR ANYMORE TREES!!!). How much space should I keep between the shop and the house?

Well speakin of trees.....a while back :eek:

If a tree falls and is within striking distance.....I would cut it down. My dad had an older oak that struck right through the middle of a building during a storm with straight inline winds....... dad thought it was a good solid tree before then. I know you hate to cut anymore trees but....:D

The distance...if your zoned? Figure on your own if you had a fire, the most possible distance....Mine is 30 ft from my home. If I had a fire....the department can use a water curtain to seperate the fire from either structure in close areas.

Hey guys,

I am looking at a 40'x40' by 14' high shop. All steel c-purlin with sunken posts. I will design and build this myself. I intend to store the 5th wheel on one side, park both trucks, and use the rest for the shop. ....

One thing that you might want to think about is your sidewall height in relation to what kind of door you want.

Typically, a 14' tall building will only allow a 12' high rollup door, BUT will allow for a 14' tall sliding door. You can put a taller rollup door in with tight radius track, but I don't now how well those work. I've heard other people say that they've had problems with them. (I don't personally have one)

Also, double check your 5th wheel height, or make darn sure you know how tall it is. Mine is only 11'6" right now, and I could get by with only a 12' high door. However, a LOT of the newer 5th wheels are OVER 12' high, and some of them are even higher. When I checked around, the highest 5th wheel I could find was 13'6". I probably won't own my current 5th wheel forever, and I wanted to make sure that my door was "flexible" later on.

Just some food for thought...

Darrin

13'6" is the legal height for motor vehicles. Add a little snow in some areas and a 14ft door is just about right.

13'6" is the legal height for motor vehicles. Add a little snow in some areas and a 14ft door is just about right.

I didn't realize that the 13'6" was actually a legal height, but I wondered about that, because I saw a handful of 5th wheels that were that tall, and that was the tallest I found.

There are also getting to be more and more new ones that are at 12' OR over. So a 12' high door wouldn't cut it...

CADman_ks